New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[val214]

Latest batch using mosaic and Galaxy hops. Along with 3rd gen Conan year.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1468178507.379520.jpg

 

[rosscoh]

Latest batch using mosaic and Galaxy hops. Along with 3rd gen Conan year.
View attachment 361594

@val214 is the rest of the recipe roughly the same? Whats your chloride to sulfate?

 

[EMH5]

I made another version of Braufessor's NEIPA recipe (my LHBS was out of 2row, Golden Promise and White Wheat at the time so these were the best subs I got).

basically 3 Citra, 5 Mosaic, 3 Simcoe and the flavor profile is tangerine, citrus and a hint of pine. This came out really great. Thanks again Braufessor!

And yes, my brewhouse efficiency is that low.

OG 1.068
~FG 1.018
~SRM 5.34
~ABV 6.56
~Eff 60%

OMEGA DIPA yeast

25.00% Halcyon 4
62.50% UK 2 Row 10
3.13% Torrified Wheat 0.5
3.13% flaked oats 0.5
3.13% flaked wheat 0.5
3.13% flaked barley 0.5
1.00 16

oz @
1 CTZ 60
0.5 Simcoe 10
0.5 Citra 10
1 Mosaic 10
1.5 Simcoe FO
0.5 Citra FO
2 Mosaic FO
1 Simcoe DH1
2 Citra DH1
2 Mosaic DH1

 

[crusader1612]

I made another version of Braufessor's NEIPA recipe (my LHBS was out of 2row, Golden Promise and White Wheat at the time so these were the best subs I got).

basically 3 Citra, 5 Mosaic, 3 Simcoe and the flavor profile is tangerine, citrus and a hint of pine. This came out really great. Thanks again Braufessor!

And yes, my brewhouse efficiency is that low.

OG 1.068
~FG 1.018
~SRM 5.34
~ABV 6.56
~Eff 60%

OMEGA DIPA yeast

25.00% Halcyon 4
62.50% UK 2 Row 10
3.13% Torrified Wheat 0.5
3.13% flaked oats 0.5
3.13% flaked wheat 0.5
3.13% flaked barley 0.5
1.00 16

oz @
1 CTZ 60
0.5 Simcoe 10
0.5 Citra 10
1 Mosaic 10
1.5 Simcoe FO
0.5 Citra FO
2 Mosaic FO
1 Simcoe DH1
2 Citra DH1
2 Mosaic DH1

Looks great.

I had originally planned something similar, but given I had already planned to brew Lagunita's Little Sumpin Sumpin clone.
Has anyone used a different yeast on this beer? (I think they use WLP007)
I have the WY1469 to use, (Its a great yeast FYI, although not tried it in something overly hoppy yet)

Thoughts?

 

[Braufessor]

Looks great.

I had originally planned something similar, but given I had already planned to brew Lagunita's Little Sumpin Sumpin clone.
Has anyone used a different yeast on this beer? (I think they use WLP007)
I have the WY1469 to use, (Its a great yeast FYI, although not tried it in something overly hoppy yet)

Thoughts?

A few people have asked about 1469..... I think it would be a yeast with a lot of potential. Conan, 1318, 002,007...... all popular IPA yeasts, all english type yeasts like 1469.
I have used it often in British Bitters and British Milds with great success. I think the key would be getting the temperature right. In my experience, 1469 can throw some weird flavors from time to time. I think it might be a yeast you have to be willing to do a little experimenting with if you really want to get the most out of it. My guess is using it in the 65-68 range might give you a significantly different beer than say a beer that hits 71-74 range.
I can't say I have enough experience with it to tell anyone what to do with it, as I have only used it in british beers. But it is a really awesome yeast. I had a mild I used it in that won BOS in a comp pushing 800 entries. Definitely my go-to yeast for british beers. I would be curious if some folks were trying it and what they were doing in regard to temperature.

 

[EMH5]

Looks great.

I had originally planned something similar, but given I had already planned to brew Lagunita's Little Sumpin Sumpin clone.
Has anyone used a different yeast on this beer? (I think they use WLP007)
I have the WY1469 to use, (Its a great yeast FYI, although not tried it in something overly hoppy yet)

Thoughts?

I have only tried this using OMEGA DIPA but I just brewed another similar to this, my For British Eyes Only IPA, British malt and yeast IPA with huge American hop hit... 8# UK 2row, 6# Halcyon (great sub for GP if GP is out) using Wyeast 1318 and Citra, Centennial Chinook and Galaxy (I cheated using Galaxy)

I think any of the Wyeast Ale strains would probably work well with Braufessor's IPA recipe... 1028, 1318, 1469, Dennys, etc.

 

[stickyfinger]

What other malt bills have people tried that they thought are good? I have been wanting to try this one for awhile, very simple:

http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2015/08/tired-hands-hophands-clone-revisted.html

I need to get some pale ale malt though.

Has anyone done one with mostly American 2-row and some character malt plus flaked grains?

 

[Braufessor]

What other malt bills have people tried that they thought are good? I have been wanting to try this one for awhile, very simple:

http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2015/08/tired-hands-hophands-clone-revisted.html

I need to get some pale ale malt though.

Has anyone done one with mostly American 2-row and some character malt plus flaked grains?

I brewed that recipe the other day. I did stick with 50/50 Golden Promise/Rahr 2 Row for base portion..... not about to go buy more grain when I have 300lbs of grain sitting in my basement I also use conan instead of 1318. Otherwise, exactly as written. Only a couple days into fermentation right now though.

 

[stickyfinger]

I brewed that recipe the other day. I did stick with 50/50 Golden Promise/Rahr 2 Row for base portion..... not about to go buy more grain when I have 300lbs of grain sitting in my basement I also use conan instead of 1318. Otherwise, exactly as written. Only a couple days into fermentation right now though.

cool. please let us know how it turns out.

 

[Dan_K]

I had a really great hazy IPA that used Vienna as the base malt and some unspecified amount of rye malt... just those 2. Could have been flaked rye actually, they didn't specify.

 

[hopbrad]

What other malt bills have people tried that they thought are good? I have been wanting to try this one for awhile, very simple:

http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2015/08/tired-hands-hophands-clone-revisted.html

I need to get some pale ale malt though.

Has anyone done one with mostly American 2-row and some character malt plus flaked grains?

I use Canadian Malting Company for mine as well but its with their 2-row, not pale ale malt.
Usually 80% CMC 2-row, 10-15% CMC wheat, 5-10% cane sugar depending where i want my OG to be. conan yeast, columbus/apollo/simcoe/mosaic, sometimes citra or centennial in there. RO with CC and gypsum water adjustments. I havent used oats yet.
its fantastic. I think its more about the water and yeast profile, not so much the grain bill. and obviously hops are important.

 

[DevilsCups]

Maybe you much more experienced ladies and gents can steer me in the right direction. I've tried brewing this style a few times now and have failed each time for various reasons. Want to go with a 2.5 gallon batch, and here is what I have at my disposal this weekend (as much of anything as needed).

- RO water
- Calcium Chloride and Gypsum
- Canadian 2-row
- Flaked Wheat
- Flaked Oats
- Columbus
- Galaxy
- 1318

Where have you guys seen the best results as far as hop schedule goes? I was thinking a tiny bittering charge at 60min, small addition at 5min of Columbus/Galaxy, then a bigger charge at 170F for 20-30min?

Basically, help me finally nail a recipe!

 

[arnobg]

@Braufessor or anyone else, what kind of carbonation schedule do you use when kegging this? Do you just keg it and then set to serving pressure for a couple weeks, or do you force carb and then drop it down after a certain period of time?

I know there's many ways to skin a cat, but just curious how you do it to get maximum freshness/best carbonation of this beer.

 

[crusader1612]

@Braufessor or anyone else, what kind of carbonation schedule do you use when kegging this? Do you just keg it and then set to serving pressure for a couple weeks, or do you force carb and then drop it down after a certain period of time?

I know there's many ways to skin a cat, but just curious how you do it to get maximum freshness/best carbonation of this beer.

Personal Preference I guess.
My stadnard is to Putto serving pressure for 7-10 dyas, and its normally aboutright, no dicking around with pressures etc.

If im ina hurry i'll force carb
30pis for 24hours then drop to serving pressure, normally carb in 2-4 days. but im patient enought to wait for 7 days normally.

 

[arnobg]

I know it's kind of a debatable topic in the kegging section, I personally usually do the 30psi for 24 hours then drop to serving pressure. I don't usually do beers like this though, so I didn't know if the hop aroma would fade faster and a force carb would benefit with this.

 

[jwm1485]

I haven't done any water treatment to this point but have been looking into it lately. I just came across this recipe and have been thinking about trying it out. Anyone know a good starting point for water treatment that I could do to try and make sure this beer turns out right?

 

[jbedell2]

I haven't done any water treatment to this point but have been looking into it lately. I just came across this recipe and have been thinking about trying it out. Anyone know a good starting point for water treatment that I could do to try and make sure this beer turns out right?

The original recipe from Braufessor, on page 1 of this thread, has exactly what you're looking for.

 

[Braufessor]

Maybe you much more experienced ladies and gents can steer me in the right direction. I've tried brewing this style a few times now and have failed each time for various reasons. Want to go with a 2.5 gallon batch, and here is what I have at my disposal this weekend (as much of anything as needed).

- RO water
- Calcium Chloride and Gypsum
- Canadian 2-row
- Flaked Wheat
- Flaked Oats
- Columbus
- Galaxy
- 1318

Where have you guys seen the best results as far as hop schedule goes? I was thinking a tiny bittering charge at 60min, small addition at 5min of Columbus/Galaxy, then a bigger charge at 170F for 20-30min?

Basically, help me finally nail a recipe!

Failed in what way??? If you let us know what went wrong with other attempts, might be able to help.

With your list, I would maybe go with
80% 2 Row
10% Flaked oats
5% wheat
5% flaked wheat

I would bitter with .33-.5 ounces of Columbus.
Galaxy and columbus are some powerful hops. To be honest, not sure if I would personally use that combo as my only hops (can you get some citra and mosaic???) If you are definitely only going to use those 2 hops, I would maybe do something like this:
For each of the 2 kettle additions I would use 1.5 ounces each of columbus and galaxy.
I would maybe go 1 ounce of galaxy and .5 ounces of columbus in 2 different dry hops.

Ideally, I would get some citra an mosaic (at least for the dry hop if not in the kettle.) You could use 1.5 ounces each of columbus and galaxy in the two kettle additions, then go 1.5 ounces each of citra and mosaic in both dry hops....

Water - just use what I have in the original post for CaCl and gypsum additions to 5 gallons of RO water in the "easy" solution.

 

[Braufessor]

@Braufessor or anyone else, what kind of carbonation schedule do you use when kegging this? Do you just keg it and then set to serving pressure for a couple weeks, or do you force carb and then drop it down after a certain period of time?

I know there's many ways to skin a cat, but just curious how you do it to get maximum freshness/best carbonation of this beer.

I do something like 25-30 pounds for a day or day and a half and then back it off to 15 for a day and then down to 12 or so after that.

 

[Braufessor]

I haven't done any water treatment to this point but have been looking into it lately. I just came across this recipe and have been thinking about trying it out. Anyone know a good starting point for water treatment that I could do to try and make sure this beer turns out right?

Yep - like mentioned above - there is an "easy" solution to water in the original post..... just adding certain amount of tsp of gypsum and CaCl to each 5 gallons of RO water. Multiply or divide according to how much water you are using.

One alternative option to my original suggestion on "easy" water profile would be to up the gypsum so it is equal to the CaCl

 

[arnobg]

I do something like 25-30 pounds for a day or day and a half and then back it off to 15 for a day and then down to 12 or so after that.

Thanks! How long until it's at good carbonation to serve from that?

think peak freshness is a week or two after kegging?

 

[Braufessor]

I would say it is drinkable with low carb already at day 2 or so. Better carb by day 5 probably. Yeah ....I figure it is about like this:
Week 1 and 2 - fermenting/dry hopping
Week 3 carbonation
Week 4 and 5 in its prime
Week 6 and 7 good, but going downhill a bit..... and usually gone by then anyway

 

[Dan_K]

Just tasted my beer. OG was 1.064 and FG was 1.018 - gives it 6.04% ABV. Not sure why it finished so high though. Used Wyeast 1318 and was a partial mash using 7 lbs of Pilsen LME among other things.

 

[Braufessor]

Just tasted my beer. OG was 1.064 and FG was 1.018 - gives it 6.04% ABV. Not sure why it finished so high though. Used Wyeast 1318 and was a partial mash using 7 lbs of Pilsen LME among other things.

extract is generally going to finish out a bit higher. But, 018 is a touch on the high side.
Did you pitch an actively fermenting starter?
Did you keep temps progressively going up from mid 60's to low 70? Sometimes if temps drop after most active ferment subsides it could poop out.

 

[Dan_K]

extract is generally going to finish out a bit higher. But, 018 is a touch on the high side.
Did you pitch an actively fermenting starter?
Did you keep temps progressively going up from mid 60's to low 70? Sometimes if temps drop after most active ferment subsides it could poop out.

I cold crashed my starter for 8 hours (after letting it ferment for 2 days) I think the procedure was sound. Might try a bigger starter next time.

My temps weren't great though.
Started a bit high, around 72 degrees. Was able to bring it down to 70 and then hovered around 69.0-70.5 degrees the remainder of the time.

I also had a blow-off event and I wonder if I may have lost some yeast during that. I think I did.

Tastes excellent though. Although my bottles have more trub than normal and it tastes better if I leave the trub in the bottle. I'll try and get some pics up soon.

 

[DevilsCups]

Failed in what way??? If you let us know what went wrong with other attempts, might be able to help.

With your list, I would maybe go with
80% 2 Row
10% Flaked oats
5% wheat
5% flaked wheat

I would bitter with .33-.5 ounces of Columbus.
Galaxy and columbus are some powerful hops. To be honest, not sure if I would personally use that combo as my only hops (can you get some citra and mosaic???) If you are definitely only going to use those 2 hops, I would maybe do something like this:
For each of the 2 kettle additions I would use 1.5 ounces each of columbus and galaxy.
I would maybe go 1 ounce of galaxy and .5 ounces of columbus in 2 different dry hops.

Ideally, I would get some citra an mosaic (at least for the dry hop if not in the kettle.) You could use 1.5 ounces each of columbus and galaxy in the two kettle additions, then go 1.5 ounces each of citra and mosaic in both dry hops....

Water - just use what I have in the original post for CaCl and gypsum additions to 5 gallons of RO water in the "easy" solution.

Great insight, thanks so much. As for my previous attempts, the last batch I tried was strange. Did 85/15 2-Row and Flaked Wheat, bittered a tad with Magnum and blasted it with Kohatu at the end and dry-hop. The hops just....vanished. I ended up with what tasted like a decent American wheat. It was bizarre.

The batch prior to that was decent (2-Row/Oats, Magnum bittered, big Citra), but I used unfiltered tap water as a test. What misery that was. I ended up with a good beer in the background of a chlorinated mess.

Those were my first two kegged batches. Prior to that, my attempt ended up with some strange oxidation/infection post-bottling. The beer darkened significantly and developed an almost band-aid/Bretty type of note with no hop, grain or yeast flavor. Just off putting.

Columbus and Galaxy are definitely whoppers. I guess my inspiration was the keg of HF Double Galaxy that popped up in my local watering hole recently. I had it a few years ago in Vermont and forgot how much I love it, so I'm going for a similar flavor profile with a little "dankness" added from the Columbus/CTZ.

 

[lilbova3]

Brau, I'm kegging my next NE style IPA. Will be my first time kegging and I can't wait to do it! Trying to research as much as possible to nail down the steps but I still plan to add a couple ounces into the fermenter around day 5-7 and then thought about adding the last ounces in the serving keg in a sack. Ever done that or see any issues with it? I'll probably tie to some floss to suspend in the keg.

 

[Braufessor]

Brau, I'm kegging my next NE style IPA. Will be my first time kegging and I can't wait to do it! Trying to research as much as possible to nail down the steps but I still plan to add a couple ounces into the fermenter around day 5-7 and then thought about adding the last ounces in the serving keg in a sack. Ever done that or see any issues with it? I'll probably tie to some floss to suspend in the keg.

I have not added to serving keg.... but, I think there are lots of people who do it successfully. Definitely bag them..... nothing more frustrating that a keg post clogged with hops over and over again. Make sure your floss is not minty

Make sure you transfer to keg carefully. I recommend putting fermenter up on counter 1-2 days in advance of transfer so that as much hop debris and yeast as possible is settled out and you are not stirring it up by moving fermenter. Again - you don't want a bunch of crap plugging up your posts.

I recommend filling keg all the way up with star san and pushing it out with CO2 at 5 pounds pressure or so..... best way to come as close as you can at purging oxygen out of keg.

Expect it to take you a few times before you really start to figure out the little things that work with your own process.

 

[Braufessor]

and blasted it with Kohatu at the end and dry-hop. The hops just....vanished. I ended up with what tasted like a decent American wheat. It was bizarre.

I have found some of these new or different hops to be hit and miss. Sometimes they add something to the beer, but often they don't quite hold up all on their own. Or, if they do hold up - sometimes they are just overpowering on their own...... I had a batch of Eureka/Columbs that was just WAAYYY to grassy and harsh. It is really hard to beat the tried and true hops like Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy, Coumbus, Simcoe, Amarillo,etc....

The batch prior to that was decent (2-Row/Oats, Magnum bittered, big Citra), but I used unfiltered tap water as a test. What misery that was. I ended up with a good beer in the background of a chlorinated mess.

Oh yeah - chlorine will ruin a beer every time. Especially hoppy beer.

Hope this one comes out for you

 

[Braufessor]

I cold crashed my starter for 8 hours (after letting it ferment for 2 days) I think the procedure was sound. Might try a bigger starter next time.


Tastes excellent though. Although my bottles have more trub than normal and it tastes better if I leave the trub in the bottle. I'll try and get some pics up soon.

As opposed to a bigger starter.... I would recommend an actively fermenting starter. I have found much better success going with a 1L starter that is 12-18 hours old. Pitching the entire starter..... no fermenting it out, no cold crash. When yeast ferments out a starter or you cold crash... you are kind of putting the yeast into a dormant state. When you then pitch it, the yeast is not really ready to go into doing the job. Actively fermenting yeast is doubling at a rate of every 90 minutes..... it takes very little time for a smaller, active starter to catch up and overtake a larger, inactive starter. When I started following a lot of the recommendations of "S. cerevisiae" on the AHA forum, I found it to work very well. Here is a big thread with a lot of yeast info in it - but, his first post on page 3 really summarizes some of the key elements.
*You do want to make sure you have a reasonably sized starter to go with.... but as long as you are in the ballpark, having an active starter is going to get you better results than an inactive starter.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=22055.30