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60% 2 rowLooks awesome, percentages on the 2 Row and Flaked oats?
40% flaked oats
Mashed at 155f
Last edited:
60% 2 rowLooks awesome, percentages on the 2 Row and Flaked oats?
1019 has always interested me. I don’t mind Sabro when used at a proper rate but I find hops that have Sabro as a parent tend to not have as much of that cedar wood/coconut note which IMO is better. I guess I’ll have to buy a lb and check it out.View attachment 880219
Last of my hazy. It's a month and a week old. Citra, HBC 1019, Citra Cryo, and Galaxy. It's called The Named & Nameless.
HBC 1019 smells so good out of the bag. I brewed my first hazy February 2016 and it was a take on Congress Street. Galaxy back then was a cheat code. The Galaxy I used in this was a 2024 crop from Hop Alliance. It smelled good from the bag, but I only used about 10% Galaxy in the dry hop. I'm not willing to ruin a batch because the Galaxy since 2018 has been subpar at best. I'm hoping Galaxy will make a comeback soon. I miss what you could coax out of it.1019 has always interested me. I don’t mind Sabro when used at a proper rate but I find hops that have Sabro as a parent tend to not have as much of that cedar wood/coconut note which IMO is better. I guess I’ll have to buy a lb and check it out.
How was the galaxy? Were you brewing 2016 or earlier? If so, is the galaxy back to true passion fruit?
I always let it finish and just adjust the recipe in the future. My neipas often finish at 1.015, and they are not too dry.Quick question. When brewing beer, especially something in the NEIPA style, let's say it has an expected FG of 1.018 but it reaches that number after 4 days and there is still the occasional bubble indicating it may continue to fall a few more points. Is it ok to drop the temp to stop fermentation or should you always let the yeast finish completely before crashing, even if that means hitting a lower FG and drying out the beer?
you should always give your yeast time to clean up even after hitting terminal gravity. They will convert byproducts like VDK and Acetaldehyde even if they can’t metabolize anymore sugars. I won’t start crashing for atleast 7-9 daysQuick question. When brewing beer, especially something in the NEIPA style, let's say it has an expected FG of 1.018 but it reaches that number after 4 days and there is still the occasional bubble indicating it may continue to fall a few more points. Is it ok to drop the temp to stop fermentation or should you always let the yeast finish completely before crashing, even if that means hitting a lower FG and drying out the beer?
adjust the recipe? just want to be sure I understand... if a beer is finishing with a lower FG than expected, recommended adjustments might include what? less yeast? other?I always let it finish and just adjust the recipe in the future. My neipas often finish at 1.015, and they are not too dry.
Higher mash temp, using grains with less PPG, adding grains with more unfermentables or adding unfermentables like maltodextrin or lactoseadjust the recipe? just want to be sure I understand... if a beer is finishing with a lower FG than expected, recommended adjustments might include what? less yeast? other?
Thanks, Mike
ThisHigher mash temp, using grains with less PPG, adding grains with more unfermentables or adding unfermentables like maltodextrin or lactose
This is a good chart to see some typical ppg of common grainsfor low PPG grains commonly used in NEIPAs, do i assume we are talking mainly dextrin malts, carapils...?
HBC 1019 smells so good out of the bag. I brewed my first hazy February 2016 and it was a take on Congress Street. Galaxy back then was a cheat code. The Galaxy I used in this was a 2024 crop from Hop Alliance. It smelled good from the bag, but I only used about 10% Galaxy in the dry hop. I'm not willing to ruin a batch because the Galaxy since 2018 has been subpar at best. I'm hoping Galaxy will make a comeback soon. I miss what you could coax out of it.
66% of the WP was HBC 1019, and 45% of the dry hop. My WP was 2lbs. per bbl equivalent, and my DH was 7lbs. per bbl equivalent.I've got a pound of HBC 1090 T90 and some cryo. I've loved it in some commercial beers but I've struggled to make it work in mine. What kind of ratios did you use? I get so much orange out of it that's it's almost plasticy and orange creamsickle like.
In the latest video on treehouse’s YouTube channel, Nate mentioned that if stored properly with low DO, hoppy beers should be able to last ~three months
I agree from my experienceIn the latest video on treehouse’s YouTube channel, Nate mentioned that if stored properly with low DO, hoppy beers should be able to last ~three months
That’s been known for quite some time. Good o2 practices, brewing process, and storage/dispensing are key to quality and longevity. I’ve had a hazy go to comp that was 6 months in the keg, and still took gold with a 39. The beer wasn’t as intense as it was early but still held up greatIn the latest video on treehouse’s YouTube channel, Nate mentioned that if stored properly with low DO, hoppy beers should be able to last ~three months
I posted on the West Coast thread, but I figure it's also worth a mention here, for those able to buy Omega's "gene-edited" yeasts (ie US commercial plus a few others?). Having identified a yeast gene responsible for much of the haze in eg London Ale III beers, they've now knocked it out in their equivalents of LA3, Voss and Chico under their Lumina branding, so you get all that LA3 biotransformation, without 90% of the haze.
If these things were fixed in stone, you would still be making your IPAs with Goldings and aging them in wooden barrels for a year...I never got the reason why tho. It still attenuates like London Ale 3 (70-75%), so it's not like I'm going to use it for a WC IPA... I also want that to be on a cleaner end. Should I make a clear hazy ipa?? lol
I kind of agree, I'm not sure what LA3 would bring to the table of a westcoast IPA. It's not that hard either to brew a london ale 3 beer that clears up, according to their own research a simple early dry hop would result in a clear beer.I never got the reason why tho. It still attenuates like London Ale 3 (70-75%), so it's not like I'm going to use it for a WC IPA... I also want that to be on a cleaner end. Should I make a clear hazy ipa?? lol
There are still quite a few people who use la3 for English ales and ambers. I’m sure this is more for folks brewing these styles to be honest.I kind of agree, I'm not sure what LA3 would bring to the table of a westcoast IPA. It's not that hard either to brew a london ale 3 beer that clears up, according to their own research a simple early dry hop would result in a clear beer.
I would be more interested in the opposite, get some more neutral yeasts that are haze stable.
Oh well can't argue over taste now can we![]()
Those are not dryhopped so have no problems clearing up imeThere are still quite a few people who use la3 for English ales and ambers. I’m sure this is more for folks brewing these styles to be honest.
That’s true but there is still quite a bit of stable haze created during fermentation from polyphenols and protien in the grains and polyphenols from the hops they did use. I’m sure you’ve had a non dryhop beep have a haze/chill haze before. By removing that gene that should eliminate that.Those are not dryhopped so have no problems clearing up ime