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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Here's my latest attempt at a NEIPA. I've had challenges previously with NEIPAs losing haze and getting darker, most likely from unclosed transfer into an an unpurged keg. For this beer, I made a 10 gallon batch and keg hopped it so I could put Mosaic in one keg, and Citra in the other (I like comparing flavors in my IPAs). I've only tried the Citra keg thus far as I'm waiting for a tap to open for the Mosiac keg. My imperfect attempts to reduce oxygen during transfer:

1. Put 8oz of Citra pellets in a mesh bag in one keg, 8oz Mosaic pellets in the other. Purged each keg six times with CO2 at 30psi.

2. Removed the liquid out post on each keg and attached the transfer tubing to the post and gravity fed the beer into each keg. I did this to avoid a clogged quick disconnect as has happened to me in previous batches.

3. While I have a 14 gallon stainless steel conical fermenter, it is not configured for pressure transfer, so I accepted some oxygen exposure while filling the kegs.

4. Once transfer was complete, I purged the headspace with CO2 and left both kegs at room temperature for three days, then cold crashed and carbonated.

I'll report back if this beer starts to lose its way after a few weeks....if it lasts that long. It has a very nice nose and flavor thus far.

Recipe details: 76% two row, 7.3% flaked barley, 7.3% flaked wheat, 7.3% flaked oats, 1.8% honey malt. .5 oz bittering hops, 6oz Citra and 6 oz Mosaic flavoring/steeping hops 30min at 150 degrees. OG 1.061, FG 1.011, 27.5 IBU. Mash 152, ferment 68. Balanced sulfate and chloride (116 and 113ppm respectively). Verdant yeast.

NEIPA 12.16.23.jpg
 
I got a new pH meter that seems to work way better than my last one, and I'm realizing my actual pHs have been about 0.1 below my target, probably for a while. I was already aiming for 5.2 to 5.3, so I was ending up with 5.1 to 5.2. It will be interesting to see if bumping it up to actually hit my target makes any difference.
 
Brewed the NB Fruit Bazooka last night. Got it on some of the dry New England IPA yeast. My first NEIPA. I had to read the directions 3 times... NO hops during boil... only a 20 minute hop stand, then dry hop???? Ok, I'll play along... it's fermenting now.
 
Looks amazing! What was your OG and FG? What did your whirlpool and dry hop rates look like?
Og 1.080
Fg 1.022
Ctz 60min 13ibu
Whirlpool 175F
4oz of Nelson 17ibu
Fist dry hop after terminal for 3 days @55F
8 oz of Nelson
4 oz of motueka
Second dryhop
After cold crashing
Spectrum mosaic in serving keg
 
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Hop rousing question -

In the past all my hazies were dry hopped in a keg so to rouse hops any time I was near the keg I would shake it a few times. I have trouble keeping these beers on tap so got a conical planning to get a full 5 gallons in my serving keg vs the 4.5 ish I was getting before (also less transferring). I did do one NEIPA with the conical and still tried rousing by shaking but it was not very convenient. So I'm going to get set up to allow me to rouse with CO2 through the racking port.

I get the general concept, but question for those that do this on the details. How long? What pressure? Hit it multiple times or a long burst?
 
Depends on the psi rating of your conical. For me it can handle 15psi, my process is:

Set co2 tank pressure to 10psi

Hook to co2 quick connect, I rouse via the bottom port with a butterfly valve, sight glass, butterfly valve, elbow, butterfly valve, co2 connection. So racking port you can probably skip my purging step.

To purge the elbow of oxygen, with 10psi pushing I loosen the triclamp until I hear it hissing, do that for a bit until I feel its purged, maybe 30 seconds or so.

Now I'm ready to rouse, because using the sight glass I cam see a little about what the hops are doing in there, I hit it with co2 for probably 10 seconds to get everything moving, using the pressure relief on top the fermenter to keep it flowing.

After that I do a couple short spurts of pressure maybe 3 or 4 times.

I imagine with rousing through the racking port you will be good to hit it with a 10psi and do a similar process but maybe someone will chime in that uses the racking port.

The main thing here in my opinion is that you need to make sure you get the yeast out, rousing hops will also rouse yeast.
 
Depends on the psi rating of your conical. For me it can handle 15psi, my process is:

Set co2 tank pressure to 10psi

Hook to co2 quick connect, I rouse via the bottom port with a butterfly valve, sight glass, butterfly valve, elbow, butterfly valve, co2 connection. So racking port you can probably skip my purging step.

To purge the elbow of oxygen, with 10psi pushing I loosen the triclamp until I hear it hissing, do that for a bit until I feel its purged, maybe 30 seconds or so.

Now I'm ready to rouse, because using the sight glass I cam see a little about what the hops are doing in there, I hit it with co2 for probably 10 seconds to get everything moving, using the pressure relief on top the fermenter to keep it flowing.

After that I do a couple short spurts of pressure maybe 3 or 4 times.

I imagine with rousing through the racking port you will be good to hit it with a 10psi and do a similar process but maybe someone will chime in that uses the racking port.

The main thing here in my opinion is that you need to make sure you get the yeast out, rousing hops will also rouse yeast.
I've got a ferm tank TC - 6 psi limit - so will have to stay a bit lower than yours. Seems like that means just hit is a bit longer since it's probably more about flow than pressure.

I do have a bit of concern on the yeast. I've used the conical once and dumping yeast was challenging. Have thoughts on the next try though to improve.
 
Yeah, so set your co2 regulator to 5psi to be safe and run it for like 20 seconds, still pulling the prv on top your tank so the pressure pushing in doesnt slow down. Do that a few times then wait 12 hours and hit it again. That's where I would start.

Dumping yeast and trub isn't as simple as it seems, a sight glass helps but can still be tedious.
 
OK, Newbish question. Long time brewer but only on my 2nd NEIPA.

I've historically dry hopped an ounce or two, and in a bag, but this time it's 4 oz into 3 gallons and it went direct. About 24 hours later I have a nice layer of puffy green hops on top, and some of it working its way to the bottom for a green layer collecting down there too. I have to imagine this is normal and all good. I'm not too concerned.

But - question - as this becomes 2 days, 3 days, and it's time to keg, will that layer of hops send itself to the bottom, or should I try and actively do that? As in start swirling the keg, or set the temp lower or anything? I just don't want to be ready to keg and still have hops all over the place.
 
OK, Newbish question. Long time brewer but only on my 2nd NEIPA.

I've historically dry hopped an ounce or two, and in a bag, but this time it's 4 oz into 3 gallons and it went direct. About 24 hours later I have a nice layer of puffy green hops on top, and some of it working its way to the bottom for a green layer collecting down there too. I have to imagine this is normal and all good. I'm not too concerned.

But - question - as this becomes 2 days, 3 days, and it's time to keg, will that layer of hops send itself to the bottom, or should I try and actively do that? As in start swirling the keg, or set the temp lower or anything? I just don't want to be ready to keg and still have hops all over the place.
i would (and I think most) cold crash the beer before transferring and the hops should mostly settle out. I also use a floating dip tube during transfers so I’m drawing off the top and not getting the stuff that settled out
 
Thanks. I'm holding it at about 60F right now, I had it there a few days to ensure the yeast dropped before I added the hops. I wasn't sure if I should let it climb or just stay. I can take it lower in a few days... I could swirl a lot too I guess, I'm kind of thinking I should let it ride for now though, maximize what the hops are giving up by not trying to rush them to the bottom.

Funny that after so many beers made in the past, going to a new style has me second guessing everything.
 
Just kegged up a Strata Mosaic Neipa with Cellar Haze - Hazy. First time using this yeast. Started at 68F and ramped to 72F to finish. Left for 5 days after FG to clean up. Fermentation smelled terrible. Like rubber and overripe fruit. Smelled awesome today. Like straight pineapple juice. I haven't sampled it yet, but I will dig into it this weekend. Looking forward to it!
Soooo, I'm not happy with the Cellar Science Hazy yeast. Lag time was 36-48 hours, and it's not as clean as it should be. The flavor from the Mosaic and Strata is awesome, but there's something in the background that I'm not liking. It's like over ripe fruit and a touch of rubber. Tastes kind of like how the fermentation smelled. Yuck.

I definitely want to try Mosaic Strata again but next time with Coastal Haze!
 
Green cheek makes the best mordern west coast ipa that I’ve tried. I don’t know if you had a chance to try them but definitely should check them out.
im gonna brew this change slightly. 60 min boil and use Juice(imperial) as my yeast because i have it. and citra dry hop 4oz and simcoe 1oz.

7.25g batch

60 min mash at 152.

60 min boil
1.3oz simcoe @60
2oz at whirlpool @165* 20 min

Imperial Juice yeast (because i have it sitting here.
dry hop
day 6 for 48 hours at 60*
1oz simcoe 1oz
4oz Citra

so its a MASHUP well see if it sucks lol
 
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It's like over ripe fruit and a touch of rubber.
I just kegged a beer earlier this afternoon, and got a little of that rubber / plastic / burnt / possibly diesel smell as well. Hoping it goes away.

1oz Nelson, 1oz Nectaron, 2oz Mosaic in a 3 gallon batch. All from Yakima Valley Hops, T-90. Omega British V that seemed to ferment very normally.

I guess we'll see how it turns out, I'll pull a glass in a few days. Hopefully not too oxidized, I do closed transfer and am normally great at it, I even flush the lines. I had a fittings issue I was having to solve, some mismatch between a keg post and quick release, so stuff had to come apart after purging.
 
I just kegged a beer earlier this afternoon, and got a little of that rubber / plastic / burnt / possibly diesel smell as well. Hoping it goes away.

1oz Nelson, 1oz Nectaron, 2oz Mosaic in a 3 gallon batch. All from Yakima Valley Hops, T-90. Omega British V that seemed to ferment very normally.

I guess we'll see how it turns out, I'll pull a glass in a few days. Hopefully not too oxidized, I do closed transfer and am normally great at it, I even flush the lines. I had a fittings issue I was having to solve, some mismatch between a keg post and quick release, so stuff had to come apart after purging.
Best of luck. I'm not sure mine is going to get better. Probably going to be a dumper :(

I got some Citra hops from a local brewery that smell AMAZING so going to brew up a neipa tomorrow. Just finished making starter and weighing out grain/hops/salts. Coastal Haze!
 
68F fermentation - up to 70F to finish
Same for me w/ the Omega. Hmm I was wondering if we ran the temps too high, but this shouldn't seem to present much of a problem.

Well, that might be for a different, non rubbery recipe, but I'd bet it's probably your normal routine.

There's a chance we have the "band aid" smells. I have chloramine in my water, I researched it, but I do a bit of Na-Meta Sodium Metabisulfite in the water the night before, so in theory that's eliminated.

Won't be autolysis, not when kegging like 2 or so weeks after brewing. I don't think it's underpitching, not for me at least, 150 billionish cells for a 3 gallon batch for me should be plenty.

I monitor mash pH, I'm always in the neighborhood of 5.3, 5.4 per my meter.

I'm doubting infection, but you never know.

Could just be due to a crapload of hops, and / or one of the hops. There's a reason people use cryo for these.
 
56% 2 Row
22% White wheat
17% Pilsner
5% Carafoam (NOT carapils)
Citra 4 min 15IBU
Citra WP 170F for 15 min
6oz DH for 48 hours
White Labs Coastal Haze yeast
152F Mash 60min
68F fermentation - up to 70F to finish
Is 4 min a typo? Seems pretty short and really precise.
 
Regarding the plastic / burnt plastic / whatever smell, mine's gone a few days later. There's a very decent chance that somethign was suspended in the beer that has now dropped out. Yeast, microscopic bits of hops, not sure. Also could have chemically converted to something else? But it's gone.

@wepeeler or others that might have had it or ever will have it.
 
Quick pH question. My last recipe, cribbed / averaged from here, was:

5 lbs 2-row pale
5 lbs golden promise
2 lbs flaked oats
1.5 lbs white wheat
.25 lbs honey malt

Even with some 10% phosphoric acid (12ml, but it's a year old) I measured a 5.5 wort pH just before boil (post grain drain and sparge). Stirred, basket lifted and lowered, and recirculated in an Anvil Foundry. Using an Apera pH60 that gets calibrated each use (4.00 and 7.00 solutions measured as such).

Is there a particular grain that may have raised it more than I expected? I am thinking the white wheat, flaked oats, or both may have bumped me higher than normal.

For folks getting pH measurements more in the 5.3 range, are you adding a lot of acid or acidulated malt or something to get there?
 
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Do you have a mash pH?
Do you acidify your sparge water?
Checked my last hazy recipe
Pilsner 4.5kg
Big o malted oats 0.8 kg
Flaked wheat 0.4 kg

26 litre mash, 6 sparge

6ml lactic acid 80% in mash
0.3 ml in sparge

pH pre boil 5.3

You can add acid post boil as well to adjust pH.
 
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