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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Does anyone know of a place where I can get a small amount of ALDC Enzyme? Morebeer sells a 1 oz dropper, but that 1 oz is equivalent to 35 doses. The problem is that it has a 12 month shelf life and I only make about 4-5 batches of beer per year, so a good amount would be wasted.
 
Does anyone know of a place where I can get a small amount of ALDC Enzyme? Morebeer sells a 1 oz dropper, but that 1 oz is equivalent to 35 doses. The problem is that it has a 12 month shelf life and I only make about 4-5 batches of beer per year, so a good amount would be wasted.
I can’t imagine a company doing a smaller bottle than 1oz.
 
I can’t imagine a company doing a smaller bottle than 1oz.
Too bad. If that's the case, then I guess I won't be using it. Can't justify spending an extra $7.50 per batch for something that might not make a difference.
 
Too bad. If that's the case, then I guess I won't be using it. Can't justify spending an extra $7.50 per batch for something that might not make a difference.
Omega has a strain in trials that’s supposedly a London ale III variant that was given the ALDC gene in it so it will prevent the creations diacetyl
 
Omega has a strain in trials that’s supposedly a London ale III variant that was given the ALDC gene in it so it will prevent the creations diacetyl
Sadly, Omega informed me that they are not going to produce hombrew-sized pitches of the aldc-generating strains. Things could change of course.
 
Sadly, Omega informed me that they are not going to produce hombrew-sized pitches of the aldc-generating strains. Things could change of course.
We will see. I can’t imagine they wouldn’t, they already blew their balls on their Thiolized strains as very few pros will use it, and since there is very little negative with an ALDC strain I feel it would be silly joy to. Again I am a very optimistic homebrewer lol
 
We will see. I can’t imagine they wouldn’t, they already blew their balls on their Thiolized strains as very few pros will use it, and since there is very little negative with an ALDC strain I feel it would be silly joy to. Again I am a very optimistic homebrewer lol
I shouldn't say they aren't going to do it. this is what they said, so it's definitely possible:

"Currently, there are no plans to offer these strains in homebrew-sized pitches, but we are constantly listening to customer feedback, so those plans may change. "
 
First pour of hb neipa, 5,0%, citra, citra Lupo, mosaic, nectaron & motueka (1.5 oz/gal DH). Intentionally low ABV for nice summer days. Tastes great and very happy with results. Followed most recommendations from this string, aldc, campden, Fermcap-s, A24, oxygen control, ferm & serve from same corny keg with top draw. I’m loving this batch and should get better with age.
 

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First time using Sabro, finally. Wow! What a potent hop. Tons of ripe tropical fruit and complexity. I wonder if it would pair well with some dank columbus?
 
I recently brewed an adaption of the recipes I found in this thread, and I experienced significant hop burn that never really settled out of the beer. I ended up splitting 16oz of Citra and Nectaron between the whirlpool and dry hop. Thinking I should have backed off on the whirlpool hops? Any ideas?

Next time I am going with DGallo's suggestion to back off on the whirlpool hop in favor of dryhopping.

Everything about the beer was good, other than that burn in the back of the throat. Thx in advance!

-Mark



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I recently brewed an adaption of the recipes I found in this thread, and I experienced significant hop burn that never really settled out of the beer. I ended up splitting 16oz of Citra and Nectaron between the whirlpool and dry hop. Thinking I should have backed off on the whirlpool hops? Any ideas?

Next time I am going with DGallo's suggestion to back off on the whirlpool hop in favor of dryhopping.

Everything about the beer was good, other than that burn in the back of the throat. Thx in advance!

-Mark



View attachment 824992
I recently brewed a NEIPA with just 4 oz of Nectaron along with Columbus and Citra and it had the craziest hop burn I ever experienced, it finally settled down but it took like 6 weeks. Now I think of Nectaron as being similar to Galaxy, so I will either use it very sparingly, or be more careful to dry hop cool & short, and use whirlfloc and gelatin to try to drop the polyphenols in suspension.
 
This is a question I know has been discussed many times but here goes again:

I ferment and serve from the same keg and am unwilling to change. In the past, to dryhop I've added the pellet hops to a bag, added to the keg post ferment, and immediately put the keg on gas, purged, cold crashed, and left the hops in the keg during the duration of consumption, usually 2-4 weeks.

Honestly it's worked well. But curious if anyone else in the thread also ferment/serves in same keg and what their method is
 
This is a question I know has been discussed many times but here goes again:

I ferment and serve from the same keg and am unwilling to change. In the past, to dryhop I've added the pellet hops to a bag, added to the keg post ferment, and immediately put the keg on gas, purged, cold crashed, and left the hops in the keg during the duration of consumption, usually 2-4 weeks.

Honestly it's worked well. But curious if anyone else in the thread also ferment/serves in same keg and what their method is
This is a question I know has been discussed many times but here goes again:

I ferment and serve from the same keg and am unwilling to change. In the past, to dryhop I've added the pellet hops to a bag, added to the keg post ferment, and immediately put the keg on gas, purged, cold crashed, and left the hops in the keg during the duration of consumption, usually 2-4 weeks.

Honestly it's worked well. But curious if anyone else in the thread also ferment/serves in same keg and what their method is
Since your unwilling to change the only option to improve your current process is, install a Janish filter for your keg and eliminate the hop bag and add them loose.

Fermenting, dryhoping and serving from the same keg certainly limits your ability to gain the brightest expression from the hops. I would would suggest you reconsider possibly changing your process. I have a thread on HBT and an article that I wrote for Brew Your Own magazine that modifies a fermonster solid lid to be able to completely close transfer. It cost about $80 for the fermenter and the materials needed for the build, which is far cheaper than any FV you can buy with close transfer capabilities.
 
Since your unwilling to change the only option to improve your current process is, install a Janish filter for your keg and eliminate the hop bag and add them loose.

Fermenting, dryhoping and serving from the same keg certainly limits your ability to gain the brightest expression from the hops. I would would suggest you reconsider possibly changing your process. I have a thread on HBT and an article that I wrote for Brew Your Own magazine that modifies a fermonster solid lid to be able to completely close transfer. It cost about $80 for the fermenter and the materials needed for the build, which is far cheaper than any FV you can buy with close transfer capabilities.
Do you see the main drawback is that the hops are in contact with the beer for too long?
 
Do you see the main drawback is that the hops are in contact with the beer for too long?
Certainly that will play some part but more the presence of yeast and stripping of compounds. Also some of your dryhop load sinking into the trub and not contacting the beer. Then possible clogging where attempting to fix it may cause oxidation.

Also just the fact that it’s a expensive and very labor intensive style to brew, so by fermenting, dryhoping in the same vessel you serve from is going to greatly limit your yield, which for me would be a big issue
 
Do you see the main drawback is that the hops are in contact with the beer for too long?
You could always use a floating diptube to transfer the finished beer to a purged serving keg via CO2. Requires no extra gear except another keg. But for the cost of @Dgallo setup, you might want to consider it. Personally, I wouldn't want my neipa on the dry hops for 2-4 weeks...
 
Certainly that will play some part but more the presence of yeast and stripping of compounds. Also some of your dryhop load sinking into the trub and not contacting the beer. Then possible clogging where attempting to fix it may cause oxidation.
Stripping of compounds?
 
You could always use a floating diptube to transfer the finished beer to a purged serving keg via CO2. Requires no extra gear except another keg. But for the cost of @Dgallo setup, you might want to consider it. Personally, I wouldn't want my neipa on the dry hops for 2-4 weeks...
I do the floating dip tube already. I resist because I'm lazy, and because I am apparently a dummy, about 2 years ago I tried closed transfers a couple times and it never worked and was a huuuuuge PITA, and I've been happy with my results of dryhopping the same ferment/serve keg. But I think I'll try the closed transfer again, worst case it ***** up again and I expose beer to oxygen and I'll just have to chug it all quickly
 
Stripping of compounds?
Yeast had a positive attractions to some hop oils and compounds. Some studies that came out (probably 5 or more years ago now) showed that dry hoping while high yeast counts are present results in a less expressive beer because when the yeast does floc out of suspension it pull these hop compound out with them.
 
Yeast had a positive attractions to some hop oils and compounds. Some studies that came out (probably 5 or more years ago now) showed that dry hoping while high yeast counts are present results in a less expressive beer because when the yeast does floc out of suspension it pull these hop compound out with them.
Ah, got it. I'll look that up, because I remember all teh debate about dry hopping during krausen or post ferm, so maybe not appicable to what I'm doing but worth re reading anyway
 
I do the floating dip tube already. I resist because I'm lazy, and because I am apparently a dummy, about 2 years ago I tried closed transfers a couple times and it never worked and was a huuuuuge PITA, and I've been happy with my results of dryhopping the same ferment/serve keg. But I think I'll try the closed transfer again, worst case it ****s up again and I expose beer to oxygen and I'll just have to chug it all quickly
I was you for 5 years. I was afraid to try it, for fear of the unknown. I now have gear that enables me to pressure transfer, and it's made a HUGE difference in aroma and flavor.

For you, all you'd need to do after fermentation is complete is hook up your regulator to push beer from fermentation keg to serving keg, before carbing. (You could do this after carbing, but then you need a spunding valve to regulate pressure between kegs.) Simplest way would be to cold crash fermentation keg and hook liquid line out on ferm keg to liquid out on purged serving keg. Then run a gas line out on serving keg into a bucket of sanitizer. Closed transfer, no oxygen. Shouldn't have too many issues (clogs) using the floating diptube.
 
My method for ipas

3 kegs, 2 floating dip tubes. Oxygen free transfers.

Fermentation keg1 with fdt. Post fermentation chill to 50-ish degrees to drop yeast, and then transfer via O2 purged lines to fermentation-purged keg2 containing loose hops and another fdt. 50-60 degrees for 3-4 days rousing occasionally. Transfer via O2 purged lines to the serving keg3.
 
My method for ipas

3 kegs, 2 floating dip tubes. Oxygen free transfers.

Fermentation keg1 with fdt. Post fermentation chill to 50-ish degrees to drop yeast, and then transfer via O2 purged lines to fermentation-purged keg2 containing loose hops and another fdt. 50-60 degrees for 3-4 days rousing occasionally. Transfer via O2 purged lines to the serving keg3.
How much beer do you end up with?
 
It’s a great method! I start with a 10 or 7 gallon keg. Start with 24-25 liters. Usually lose a liter to yeast, 3-4 liters to dry hops.

I’m not convinced which is better - hops in the DH keg getting purged by fermentation (warmer) or adding the hops to the DH keg after transferring. I think I prefer the latter actually, but I also use a purged hop bong on my leg and use some k meta for insurance. Also, I should add sometimes im lazy and don’t use a DH keg. Just drop yeast in fermenter, dry hop directly and dont agitate. (Like is pretty common) I'm not convinced which is better. Anyone strong opinions on the differences?
 
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