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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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What’s everybody’s favorite combo with Nelson. Got a good batch from Yakima and don’t want to waste it
I've brewed a ton as well with nelson:

Citra/Strata/Nelson
Citra/Nectaron/Nelson
Nelson/Riwaka
Moutere/Riwaka/Nelson
Nelson/Riwaka/Galaxy

So give the past few posts, if you are unsure: start with Citra and Nelson and then throw in another hop that peeps have mentioned: Riwaka, Nectaron, Strata, Mosaic etc...or just add more nelson lol
 
First keg tap of NEIPA w/nectaron, along with mosaic & azecca. Good and will get better. Diesel strong, but reading earlier posts about southern hemisphere hops confirms what I have experienced for most of my SH use. This will mellow out over time, but I just can’t wait.
Dry hop should be no longer than 2 days for Southern Hemisphere hops or else you get the nothing but diesel dank.
Nelson/Citra
Nelson/strata (Citra works well too)
Nelson/Motueka
Nelson/Nelson lol
Nelson/mosaic/enigma - this one was so was really cool and actually scored me my highest ipa score in a region comp, 43 (ipa category had 25-30 beers, can’t the exact number)
100% Nelson totally agree.
 
What’s everybody’s favorite combo with Nelson. Got a good batch from Yakima and don’t want to waste it
You cannot go wrong with Citra and Nelson. Also Citra, Nelson and Nectaron is also amazing. I won gold with that one in our National Homebrew competition a few weeks ago.
 
Man I kegged my Citra/Nectaron NEIPA 4.5 weeks ago and it's still undrinkably bitter and harsh. A very similar recipe with all Mosaic was ready way sooner. Anyone else have this experience with Nectaron? I've only had it with Galxaxy, Vic Secret and Idaho 7.
Well just shy of 5 weeks in the keg and my Citra/Nectaron NEIPA is ******* delicious, super pungent dank tropical fruit. A completely different beer than just 2 days ago. Full report and recipe soon.
 
My collab the warbler is out in cans. Can’t lie, feels good to see my logo on the label.

It is out in distro through Uptown Beverage. Keep an eye out
69B3A27B-E912-430B-8C68-BF58F6EC6391.jpeg
 
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Right on! No such thing as Less is more :)
I still believe less is more to some extent but modern dryhoping techniques certainly allow you to push the rates higher than in the past.

5lb/bbl is the equivalent of 12-14oz for a 5 gallon batch depending on the volume at dryhoping. We also used cryo and spectrum within that rate to cut the amount of green material to avoid astringency
 
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I still believe less is more to some extent but modern dryhoping techniques certainly allow you to much the rates higher than in the past.

5lb/bbl is the equivalent of 12-14oz for a 5 gallon batch depending on the volume at dryhoping. We also used cryo and spectrum within that rate to cut the amount of green material to avoid astringency
Yes agree! It all boils down to process, this was put to the extreme with the tree house limit series I think
 
Well just shy of 5 weeks in the keg and my Citra/Nectaron NEIPA is ****ing delicious, super pungent dank tropical fruit. A completely different beer than just 2 days ago. Full report and recipe soon.
Interesting my experience is exactly the opposite, as time goes by the diesel character starts to become sharper
 
Need some advice. I am just finishing my second dry hop addition. For my dry hopping I use a course hop bag to dry hop that allows me to remove after a period of time. A friend told me that by using this method the hops in the center of the bag are not getting any exposure for 100% of the hop soak. Is there a better method for dry hopping and having the availability to remove hops during the dry hop process?
 
Need some advice. I am just finishing my second dry hop addition. For my dry hopping I use a course hop bag to dry hop that allows me to remove after a period of time. A friend told me that by using this method the hops in the center of the bag are not getting any exposure for 100% of the hop soak. Is there a better method for dry hopping and having the availability to remove hops during the dry hop process?
Most people here are dry hopping loose, cold crashing so the hops sink to the bottom of the carboy, and then racking the beer off the hops and into the keg, possibly with a floating dip tube and/or a filter to keep any particles out of the keg.
 
Need some advice. I am just finishing my second dry hop addition. For my dry hopping I use a course hop bag to dry hop that allows me to remove after a period of time. A friend told me that by using this method the hops in the center of the bag are not getting any exposure for 100% of the hop soak. Is there a better method for dry hopping and having the availability to remove hops during the dry hop process?
I typically dry hop loose, but I have dry hopped in a bag at times. There is evidence that you will get less extraction using a hop sack, but it depends on many factors. In a small canister, the inner hops might be completely dry, but in a large bag there might not be much difference than adding the hops loose. Adding some weights might also keep the bag from just floating on the top.

As far as "the ability to remove dry hops", personally I have never removed dry hops. This is partially due to my equipment (I used to ferment in narrow necked glass carboys, now I generally dry hop loose in Fermonster fermenters). These days I worry enough about oxidation with hoppy beers, that I don't really see a way I could remove a bag of hops and also avoid getting air into my fermenter. I also don't really see the need to remove hops. I will typically dry hop once for 2 days, then cold crash for 1-2 days before kegging.

Some people on this thread have more sophisticated equipment or processes that may let them dump hops out of the bottom of a conical fermenter, or transfer the beer into a second purged vessel containing their dry hops.

@MIWI : I would say to try and keep it simple and find a process that works for you (while keeping the dangers of cold side oxidation in mind). If you want to use a sack, use a large one that gives the hops plenty of room to swell and move around (or use multiple hop sacks). I am not convinced there is a need to remove hops.
 
Do you mind sharing your recipe?
No problem, here it is,

OG 1.085
FG 1.020
Verdant Yeast

Crisp Extra Pale - 38%
Oat Malt - 23%
Spelt - 12%
Golden Promise - 10%
Carafoam - 8%
Flaked Oats - 8%
Cara Malt - 1%

8g each of citra, nectaron and nelson at 5 minutes

Whirlpool
1.5oz Citra T90
1oz Citra Lupomax
1.5oz Nelson
1.5oz Nectaron

Dry Hop
4oz Citra T90
2oz Citra Lupomax
3oz Nelson
3oz Nectaron

Pitched yeast at 65 and let free rise to 72/73
 
Verdant Yeast
Thanks for sharing. Was this just 1 pack of yeast for a 5 gallon batch? I am mostly using dry yeast these days and Verdant is my go to, but I am never quite sure where I draw the line on one pack vs two (or 1.5? or a starter?). My most common usage of Verdant has been 1 pack into 2.7 gals of wort at 1.065 to 1.070.
 
Thanks for sharing. Was this just 1 pack of yeast for a 5 gallon batch? I am mostly using dry yeast these days and Verdant is my go to, but I am never quite sure where I draw the line on one pack vs two (or 1.5? or a starter?). My most common usage of Verdant has been 1 pack into 2.7 gals of wort at 1.065 to 1.070.
This brew was about 17g I think, so 1.5 packs. I just use the pitch rate calculator on the Lallemand site. Hasn't let me down yet. Going forward I think I'm going to top crop the yeast to reuse to try and reduce costs. I've gotten lazy the last while just dumping packs in.

Pitching rate calculator | Lallemand Brewing
 
Seems like a lot of the recipes on here are splitting their hops about 1/3 in the whirlpool, and 2/3 as dry hops. Is this the general consensus?

For me, I prefer hop flavor over aroma and would think that having more in the whirlpool would provide more hop flavor. Is this a safe assumption? I just kegged a recipe yesterday and followed a 50/50 split (8oz in whirlpool, 8 oz as dry hop), so I guess I will find out shortly.

Thx!

-Mark
 
Seems like a lot of the recipes on here are splitting their hops about 1/3 in the whirlpool, and 2/3 as dry hops. Is this the general consensus?

For me, I prefer hop flavor over aroma and would think that having more in the whirlpool would provide more hop flavor. Is this a safe assumption? I just kegged a recipe yesterday and followed a 50/50 split (8oz in whirlpool, 8 oz as dry hop), so I guess I will find out shortly.

Thx!

-Mark
Idk who started that myth back in the day but it so dumb.

Hops added at any point add flavor. Even the 60 minute adds flavor with the bitterness. The reason the aroma gets elevated from dryhopping is because the compounds aren’t getting blown off from fermentation or converted by the yeast, so in addition to all the flavor the dryhoping imparts, it also elevates the aroma
 
Idk who started that myth back in the day but it so dumb.

Hops added at any point add flavor. Even the 60 minute adds flavor with the bitterness. The reason the aroma gets elevated from dryhopping is because the compounds aren’t getting blown off from fermentation or converted by the yeast, so in addition to all the flavor the dryhoping imparts, it also elevates the aroma
This reminds me of an article from Janish (Zero Hot-Side Hopped NEIPA | HPLC Testing for Sensory Bitterness - Scott Janish) where he dry hopped with 10 ounces and omitted hot-side hops altogether. The aroma and taste was very subdued and he figured that hot-side hops must be necessary for flavor. He made another beer with about 0.5 ounces of hops added to the hot-side, along with a 6 ounce dry hop, and it turned out a lot better than the "dry hop only" beer. It appears that hopping on both the hot and cold-side is necessary to make the best beer. I wish I knew what the best ratio is for hot vs cold, but it's definitely not easy to figure out. I usually do 50/50 and it works pretty well.
 
This reminds me of an article from Janish (Zero Hot-Side Hopped NEIPA | HPLC Testing for Sensory Bitterness - Scott Janish) where he dry hopped with 10 ounces and omitted hot-side hops altogether. The aroma and taste was very subdued and he figured that hot-side hops must be necessary for flavor. He made another beer with about 0.5 ounces of hops added to the hot-side, along with a 6 ounce dry hop, and it turned out a lot better than the "dry hop only" beer. It appears that hopping on both the hot and cold-side is necessary to make the best beer. I wish I knew what the best ratio is for hot vs cold, but it's definitely not easy to figure out. I usually do 50/50 and it works pretty well.
Absolute. The best beers have depth of hop character and you can’t get that alone from either just hot side or just cold side.

10-20 ibus from boil (depending on your preference), 0.5-1oz/gallon whirlpool, 2oz/gallon dryhop will get you there
 
Absolute. The best beers have depth of hop character and you can’t get that alone from either just hot side or just cold side.

10-20 ibus from boil (depending on your preference), 0.5-1oz/gallon whirlpool, 2oz/gallon dryhop will get you there
What math conversion, if any, are you using for the 2oz/gallon dry hop if some or all the hops are T45? Does that even matter in the dry hop, or does it only matter during the boil due to the higher AA%?
 
What math conversion, if any, are you using for the 2oz/gallon dry hop if some or all the hops are T45? Does that even matter in the dry hop, or does it only matter during the boil due to the higher AA%?
I think the use of t45 pellets benefit you more in dryhop than else where but for hopped lagers or ales I want to be clear, I will use it in whirlpool too.

Also it seems cryo(all t45) use is very personal, some love using advanced hop products and some not at all. Im in the middle. I like the intensity and lower polyphenol portion of the concentrated pellets but I absolutely love that t90 full flavored hop note.

This is not set in stone for me as I do still mess around with the rates of each but I’d say that my dryhops are 30-40% t45 pellets
 
Absolute. The best beers have depth of hop character and you can’t get that alone from either just hot side or just cold side.

10-20 ibus from boil (depending on your preference), 0.5-1oz/gallon whirlpool, 2oz/gallon dryhop will get you there
That sounds pretty proper to me. I always aim for 20 IBUs too. Since I usually do a 50/50 whirlpool/dry hop, I might try reducing the whirlpool addition to see what's what.
 

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