New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[RevKev]

If you are able.... sample the beer between the 1st and second dry hop and go based on what the beer tastes like at that point.

In regard to CO2..... fill the keg with star san water..... push it out with CO2 on 3-5lbs of pressure. 99% purged. Waaayyyy easier that continually purging and venting an empty keg.

Yeah I have a sampling port on the conical just was wondering if you happened to find a point of diminishing return, I'll probably toss in another three ounces just because why not.

And I use Sankes and have to remove my spears to fill.. not set up for a pressurized push yet.. would it be smart to just take a CO2 line and drop it in the keg and blast pressure in there? I like that idea for when I switch to pressurized transfers thanks for the idea

Edit: I just don't want to run Star San through my flow control perlick and have sulfuric off flavor

 

[trav77]

Brewed this 2 weeks ago to 1.063 OG using YB Vermont Ale and 50:50 Citra:Mosiac for the late and dry hops. Very nice mango/pineapple/citrus aroma and flavour. The only thing that is getting me so far is that there seems to still be a good amount of hop matter in suspension despite a 3 day cold crash and leaving behind all of the trub in the kettle and fermenter. So it tastes great but at this point I'm getting a harsh bitterness in the back of the throat. Anyone else get that at first and if so how long until it cleaned up?

 

[grassfeeder]

Brewed this 2 weeks ago to 1.063 OG using YB Vermont Ale and 50:50 Citra:Mosiac for the late and dry hops. Very nice mango/pineapple/citrus aroma and flavour. The only thing that is getting me so far is that there seems to still be a good amount of hop matter in suspension despite a 3 day cold crash and leaving behind all of the trub in the kettle and fermenter. So it tastes great but at this point I'm getting a harsh bitterness in the back of the throat. Anyone else get that at first and if so how long until it cleaned up?

are you bagging your hops?

 

[trav77]

are you bagging your hops?

Pellets loose into the fermenter at the end of primary which is my usual process with good results (although I have never used this many dry hops in a batch before).

 

[grassfeeder]

Pellets loose into the fermenter at the end of primary which is my usual process with good results (although I have never used this many dry hops in a batch before).

yeah, I typically dry hop these beers with 7-9 ounces of hops and bag them and suspend the bag with dental floss so that when I transfer the bag doesn't drop to the bottom and block the flow. Doing this also prevents much, if any sediment to transfer. Nothing that doesn't pour out in the first pint after sitting in the keezer for 2-3 days.

 

[VT_jlee]

I poured a version of this beer at an event last weekend where folks I didn't know filled out tasting cards and indicated if they "Like/Buy/Recommend" the beer (Affirmative = yes response; Negative = No response). Went with 70% pils, 20% wheat, 10% quick oats, with 2nd gen Conan. 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Simcoe for two post-boil additions and 1.5:1:0.5 Citra/Mosaic/Simcoe for two dry hop additions. It was a big hit and trounced my Amarillo/Galaxy saison.

 

[RevKev]

Adding 1oz Mosaic and 1oz Galaxy. Want a bit more tropic thunder to it.

Murky brown color is from hop particulates

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[mgr_stl]

So this talk about oxidation.... Does it negatively impact bottled beer less than, equal to, or more than kegged beer?

 

[coombaya]

Does anyone have this recipe saved into BeerSmith that would like to share with me?

 

[olotti]

So this talk about oxidation.... Does it negatively impact bottled beer less than, equal to, or more than kegged beer?

In my experience lately and I only bottle it hits bottled beer a lot easier than purging a keg with co2. However I've started cold crashing the fermenter for about 12hrs as opposed to the 24-36 hrs I used to do and I've had a lot better results along with filling and capping every beer right away as opposed to filling 6 bottles then capping. No real science behind why it's working but it's working better for me anyway as I've had real bad issues with oxidation in some really hop heavy IPAs lately.

 

[armenianbrewer]

Anyone use WLP008 (east coast ale) for this style beer yet?

 

[stickyfinger]

Why does that scare you? Anytime I use Conan in these I always let it climb that high. It throws the peach smell like crazy when you do. Makes for a great beer. My temp schedule for conan with these beers is start at 66, let it climb to 68 over two days. Then let it rise to 72 over a couple more days and sit there. Basically as main fermentation is starting to taper it's climbing from 68-72. Then after sitting at 72 for a little while bring it back down slowly to 66/67, then cold crash and package.





I've used it a few times in beers I didn't want as much, or any of that aroma (threw it in a RIS for kicks) and I just kept it at the 66°F mark the whole time. It blew through 1.099 wort really cleanly.

it was a dream. i don't know. maybe i thought it had shot to 72 right after pitching. i always fear solvent flavors and prefer lower ferment temps

 

[VT_jlee]

it was a dream. i don't know. maybe i thought it had shot to 72 right after pitching. i always fear solvent flavors and prefer lower ferment temps

My last batch shot to 90F 6 days into fermentation due to an issue with my controller. I posted the random tasting results on the previous page

 

[rtracer]

If you are able.... sample the beer between the 1st and second dry hop and go based on what the beer tastes like at that point.

In regard to CO2..... fill the keg with star san water..... push it out with CO2 on 3-5lbs of pressure. 99% purged. Waaayyyy easier that continually purging and venting an empty keg.

That will be my process for the eventual serving keg, but obviously that won't work for the dry hop keg.

What is your process for purging the dry hop keg?

I keg in Sankes, so I am thinking I will toss in the hops, seal up and add the gas to the beer out attachment so the Co2 will fill from the bottom up, with a number of purge cycles.

Another thing I am wondering is how best to pre purge out the O2 from the transfer hoses?

 

[Braufessor]

That will be my process for the eventual serving keg, but obviously that won't work for the dry hop keg.

What is your process for purging the dry hop keg?

I keg in Sankes, so I am thinking I will toss in the hops, seal up and add the gas to the beer out attachment so the Co2 will fill from the bottom up, with a number of purge cycles.

Another thing I am wondering is how best to pre purge out the O2 from the transfer hoses?

For dry hop keg, I basically do the same thing... but, then I do pop the top add hops and fill with tubing from fermenter to bottom of dry hop keg.... as full as I can basically get it. Then I put lid back on, purge what tiny head space is left. Not 100% O2 free - but seems to have no real impact on the beer.

In regard to the tubing for transfers - usually I run the first little bit of beer into a glass (for sampling and because the first few ounces of each transfer always has the most gunk in it.) So, the tube is then full of beer and I put the other disconnect on it fast, so it is basically full of liquid and not o2.

 

[BrunDog]

I used to carefully fill my keg with the lid off and the tube from the fermenter at the bottom, initially filling slowly to avoid aeration. I would then purge the headspace with co2. My last few I have purged the sanitized keg a few times, letting the gas settle in between each cycle for a few minutes as CO2 is higher density than O2. I then disconnect the co2, purge most of the pressure but not all, then connect a tube with liquid disconnect one end on the fermenter spigot (the fermenter on a table and the keg on the floor) and the other onto the liquid post. The remaining pressure clears the tube of air and remaining sanitizer. I then open the spigot and let the tube fill, then open the purge valve, and let gravity do its thing. This fills from bottom up under the blanket of co2.

I have to say, I think it has made a big difference in reducing oxidation and premature aging in my last bunch of beers. My NEIPA is going strong and has not lost its hop fruit after a bunch of weeks.

 

[tjosborne]

@BrunDog I've thought of doing a closed transfer like that but was afraid of clogs. Do you pull out the poppet or anything?

 

[rtracer]

I used to carefully fill my keg with the lid off and the tube from the fermenter at the bottom, initially filling slowly to avoid aeration. I would then purge the headspace with co2. My last few I have purged the sanitized keg a few times, letting the gas settle in between each cycle for a few minutes as CO2 is higher density than O2. I then disconnect the co2, purge most of the pressure but not all, then connect a tube with liquid disconnect one end on the fermenter spigot (the fermenter on a table and the keg on the floor) and the other onto the liquid post. The remaining pressure clears the tube of air and remaining sanitizer. I then open the spigot and let the tube fill, then open the purge valve, and let gravity do its thing. This fills from bottom up under the blanket of co2.

I have to say, I think it has made a big difference in reducing oxidation and premature aging in my last bunch of beers. My NEIPA is going strong and has not lost its hop fruit after a bunch of weeks.

Cool, that about what I have planned for my future kegging, except I use carboys so I plan to use a little Co2 pressure on carby cap to start the siphon.
I also want to devise a small ball valve I can put inline in the transfer hose at the end where the coupler hookup is. I can then start the pressure/siphon slowly, and once the line is full of beer, close the valve, hook it up to the keg, then open the valve to do the transfer. This way the lines will also be completly purged. Likely overkill, but hey what the hell...

 

[schematix]

Cool, that about what I have planned for my future kegging, except I use carboys so I plan to use a little Co2 pressure on carby cap to start the siphon.
I also want to devise a small ball valve I can put inline in the transfer hose at the end where the coupler hookup is. I can then start the pressure/siphon slowly, and once the line is full of beer, close the valve, hook it up to the keg, then open the valve to do the transfer. This way the lines will also be completly purged. Likely overkill, but hey what the hell...

How about purging the line before starting the siphon? When i fermented in carboys that's what i did.

I'd start with a carboy full of beer, and a keg that had been water purged with co2 (so it was under pressure). I'd bleed the keg down to a couple PSI by pulling the PRV, then attach the racking cane with disconnect to the liquid side of the keg. It would blow out the rest of the co2 (make sure to this before you insert it into the carboy otherwise you will be unhappy). Then insert racking cane+cap into carboy, apply pressure, and you're off.

 

[rtracer]

How about purging the line before starting the siphon? When i fermented in carboys that's what i did.

I'd start with a carboy full of beer, and a keg that had been water purged with co2 (so it was under pressure). I'd bleed the keg down to a couple PSI by pulling the PRV, then attach the racking cane with disconnect to the liquid side of the keg. It would blow out the rest of the co2 (make sure to this before you insert it into the carboy otherwise you will be unhappy). Then insert racking cane+cap into carboy, apply pressure, and you're off.

That would work, but since I keg in Sanke 1/6ths, I have a big open tube where the hex bolt goes on the coupler so I assume it would quickly re-fill with O2.

 

[Desertbrewer]

Just brewed up an iteration loosely based on OP's recipe with same hop additions using equal parts Galaxy/Citra/Equinox. Fermenting away 16 hours in with Gigayeast Vermont IPA (Conan). Fermentation chamber smells like mangoes and peaches already.

I bottle also, so hoping to see how this shakes out in a few weeks. Are there recommended practices for us bottlers for this style (like conditioning colder than room temp?)

Will report back.

Thank OP for the great write up and recipe.

Cheers!

 

[beardandbutter]

Brewed my second iteration of this recipe. First time with citra/mosaic/galaxy combo. After drinking Julius, Haze, Lights On, and Alter Ego tonight this one holds up really well. One thing I did a little differently was add an ounce of citra and galaxy before adding yeast per Scott Janish's pre-fermentation addition http://scottjanish.com/

 

[jammin]

Brewed my second iteration of this recipe. First time with citra/mosaic/galaxy combo. After drinking Julius, Haze, Lights On, and Alter Ego tonight this one holds up really well. One thing I did a little differently was add an ounce of citra and galaxy before adding yeast per Scott Janish's pre-fermentation addition http://scottjanish.com/

can you give the cliff notes of what effect dry hopping prior to fermentation has?

 

[RevKev]

Anyone ever tried to put this IPA on nitro?

 

[BrunDog]

@BrunDog I've thought of doing a closed transfer like that but was afraid of clogs. Do you pull out the poppet or anything?

Great question. I usually pull a sample jar off for tasting and hydro measurement (though I use a brewometer and usually know already), and that helps clear the spigot. Also better if cold crashed before that. Then since the transfer takes a while it doesn't seem to clog even with the poppers in. Sometimes debris settles in the tube but the flow is too slow to push it up into the keg.

 

[WiscoBrewer]

Hey, I have been doing a recipe similar to this for a year or two now with small changes, this is what I have ended up with so far. I cant believe how close we ended up here. I remember working out the Psuedo Sue clone with you Braufessor on here, seems we kind of took the same path. to get here.

68% 2row
20% Marris Otter
3.5% Flaked Oats
3.5% Flaked Barley
sometimes all oats sometimes all barley, no perceived difference in any combo. Sometimes I'll use a little lactose too.
5% Honey Malt
1oz Columbus or Warrior 45min
1.25 Citra 5min
.75 Galaxy 5min
.75 Mosaic 5min
1.75 Citra 0min
.75 Galaxy 0min
.75 Mosaic 0min
3 Citra Whirlpool @ 175 30min
2 Mosaic Whirlpool @ 175 30min
1.5 Citra first DH while still fermenting
1 Mosaic first DH while still fermenting
1.5 Citra DH 2-3 days after first DH
1 Mosaic DH 2-3 days after first DH
mash @ 150-152
ferment w/ WLP007 or Vermont Ale
145 Calcium
200 Sulfate
100 Chloride
40 Bicarbs
5.3-5.4ph
I do all my DH in the carboy and cold crash this for about 12 hours at 35-40, before transferring to the keg. I purge the keg by pushing star san out with my CO2 and then syphon into the out port, which has worked well so far.

I normally have this in the keg within 2 weeks of brew day for maximum hoppy freshness. Here lies my question. I have a competition coming up in Nov, I am leaving town for work on Sunday and brewing on Saturday because I don't know how long I'll be gone and if I'll have time to brew this when I'll get back. Has anybody brewed something similar and left it sit in the fermenter for 2-3 weeks before DH? How did it effect freshness, aroma, flavor, etc.?

 

[lilbova3]

can you give the cliff notes of what effect dry hopping prior to fermentation has?

The biotransformation the yeast and hops have while the yeast are still fermenting can help add the juicy like aroma we're searching for in these beers.

While adding it at the end of fermentation is good enough, Scott recommended trying it at the beginning of fermentation because there could be a larger biotransformation with the yeast. Hops high in linalool oils (I believe that was the correct oil) and contact with the yeast provide the 'juice'.

I'm trying to recall all the info so reading the article would be best.

 

[lilbova3]

Hey, I have been doing a recipe similar to this for a year or two now with small changes, this is what I have ended up with so far. I cant believe how close we ended up here. I remember working out the Psuedo Sue clone with you Braufessor on here, seems we kind of took the same path. to get here.



68% 2row

20% Marris Otter

3.5% Flaked Oats

3.5% Flaked Barley

sometimes all oats sometimes all barley, no perceived difference in any combo. Sometimes I'll use a little lactose too.

5% Honey Malt

1oz Columbus or Warrior 45min

1.25 Citra 5min

.75 Galaxy 5min

.75 Mosaic 5min

1.75 Citra 0min

.75 Galaxy 0min

.75 Mosaic 0min

3 Citra Whirlpool @ 175 30min

2 Mosaic Whirlpool @ 175 30min

1.5 Citra first DH while still fermenting

1 Mosaic first DH while still fermenting

1.5 Citra DH 2-3 days after first DH

1 Mosaic DH 2-3 days after first DH

mash @ 150-152

ferment w/ WLP007 or Vermont Ale

145 Calcium

200 Sulfate

100 Chloride

40 Bicarbs

5.3-5.4ph

I do all my DH in the carboy and cold crash this for about 12 hours at 35-40, before transferring to the keg. I purge the keg by pushing star san out with my CO2 and then syphon into the out port, which has worked well so far.



I normally have this in the keg within 2 weeks of brew day for maximum hoppy freshness. Here lies my question. I have a competition coming up in Nov, I am leaving town for work on Sunday and brewing on Saturday because I don't know how long I'll be gone and if I'll have time to brew this when I'll get back. Has anybody brewed something similar and left it sit in the fermenter for 2-3 weeks before DH? How did it effect freshness, aroma, flavor, etc.?

I haven't waited that long to DH in a long time. On my most recent batch I wasn't able to DH when I wanted due to Hurricane Matthew evacuation. While I feel DH at the tail end of fermentation can help with the biotransformation of the yeast and hops I bet you'd still be ok to DH that late. Many brewers do a 'mini cold crash' - meaning dropping the temp to 58-60* -to help drop the yeast so they can save it and then DH. Maybe throw in a few extra ounces to help give you that extra punch you in the face aroma. I would think the flavor will still be ok after 2-3 weeks.

If there's a way to let it ferment out and then someone can cool it for you until you return that might work.

 

[beardandbutter]

can you give the cliff notes of what effect dry hopping prior to fermentation has?

Basically what lilbova3 said above.

In his "Some Other Thoughts" section of "Fermenting Under Pressure":

"Pre-fermentation additions of Galaxy in the London Ale III beer (I chose this for its higher total oil content vs. Citra) seems to be working out extremely well for me. I may have to try to experiment with more at this phase vs. the steep/whirlpool addition."

I had asked him a question about it on one of his posts since I read "pre-fermentation addition" and didn't know if he meant hop stand or what, but he replied: "Yup, before the wort and yeast is added to the fermenter. I like the results so far and I don’t see a downside (yet) of adding hops, even in small amounts, at every chance you get! I haven’t experienced any fermentation issues with the hops in right away either, I’ve harvested (top-cropped) some of these beers to without issues as well."

 

[RevKev]

So this was just kegged and it's such a damned juice bomb.

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