New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Schemy]

Shooting for a .3 range? Huh.

Well a .2 range actually, for a mash pH. Why?

 

[grassfeeder]

I've read a significant portion pf the 1700+ posts on this thread and haven't seen this addressed...

What is the reigning thinking on finishing this beer? I have 10G in primary right now. I was going to transfer to dry hopping kegs at about day 12. Let it sit on the second dry hops for 4-6 days, cold crash for 3-4, and then transfer to serving keg.

I assume no one is doing any gel fining in secondary, right? I do this with beers I'm looking to drop real clear, but this isn't in that category >)

I don't bother cold crash these at all. I dry hop in primary, very much limit any and all oxygen exposure. No fining agents, just let the beer be what it is.

 

[Braufessor]

I've read a significant portion pf the 1700+ posts on this thread and haven't seen this addressed...

What is the reigning thinking on finishing this beer? I have 10G in primary right now. I was going to transfer to dry hopping kegs at about day 12. Let it sit on the second dry hops for 4-6 days, cold crash for 3-4, and then transfer to serving keg.

I assume no one is doing any gel fining in secondary, right? I do this with beers I'm looking to drop real clear, but this isn't in that category >)

I find I really transfer very clean beer to serving keg from dry hop keg (double filter on the dip tube in the dry hop keg and 1/2 inch cut off the dip tube) .....no hops, trub, yeast with only 2 days and no cold crash. Everyone's system varies for that though - so you have to do what your system calls for. I am a proponent of transferring beer with as little hops, trub and yeast as possible.

Seems your description would put beer in the serving keg around day 21 or so. Nothing wrong with that (who knows, might even be better - I have not tried it.) However, I am generally putting beer in serving keg at day 12-14 and drinking it by Day 15-18 or so.

I don't generally fine this beer - but I have used gelatin a time or two out of curiosity. Still hazy.... even with gelatin. Like I said though, my versions of this tend to be like a beer with a very heavy protein haze that dissipates to something similar to a chill haze over the life of the keg.

 

[brew703]

In an attempt to reduce the chance of oxidation, I'm thinking of eliminating one dry hop addition and taking that addition and adding it to the zero min addition or the WP addition.

I'm not 100% set on the specific hops. Previous versions include Amarillo/Chinook/Simcoe and the orig hops posted by the OP.
Would like to include Galaxy at some point, not necessarily in this batch.

Thoughts?

Here's what I come up with:
41.8% 2 Row
41.8% GP
8.4% Flaked Oats
4% Flaked Barley
2% White Wheat
2% Honey Malt

.65 oz CTZ FWH (36.79 IBU)
.81 oz Simcoe @ 0
1.35 oz Citra @ 0
1.08 oz Amarillo @ 0
.54 oz each Simcoe/Citra/Amarillo WP for 30 min @ 160
.81 oz Citra DH 5 days
.54 oz Amarillo DH 5 days
.27 oz Simcoe DH 5 days

 

[RevKev]

In an attempt to reduce the chance of oxidation, I'm thinking of eliminating one dry hop addition and taking that addition and adding it to the zero min addition or the WP addition.

I'm not 100% set on the specific hops. Previous versions include Amarillo/Chinook/Simcoe and the orig hops posted by the OP.
Would like to include Galaxy at some point, not necessarily in this batch.

Thoughts?

Here's what I come up with:
41.8% 2 Row
41.8% GP
8.4% Flaked Oats
4% Flaked Barley
2% White Wheat
2% Honey Malt

.65 oz CTZ FWH (36.79 IBU)
.81 oz Simcoe @ 0
1.35 oz Citra @ 0
1.08 oz Amarillo @ 0
.54 oz each Simcoe/Citra/Amarillo WP for 30 min @ 160
.81 oz Citra DH 5 days
.54 oz Amarillo DH 5 days
.27 oz Simcoe DH 5 days

I would personally bump up the white wheat content. I used 35.7% in mine and 3.6% Flaked Wheat and 3.6% Flaked Oats. Not too sure if anyone else has or not but I love the mouth feel I got

 

[stickyfinger]

i did a 50% flaked wheat version. it was great

 

[m00ps]

i did a 50% flaked wheat version. it was great

BIAB FTW!

I've done several sours with close to 50% too in order to get a soft nice body and combat the below 1.000 FG. Good stuff

 

[grassfeeder]

In addition to bumping up the wheat, the hops are waaaay too low in my opinion. I've been using 12-16 ounces per 5 gallon batch for these.

 

[m00ps]

In addition to bumping up the wheat, the hops are waaaay too low in my opinion. I've been using 12-16 ounces per 5 gallon batch for these.

What the papazian are you thinking? That's just madness

 

[RevKev]

What the papazian are you thinking? That's just madness

I actually ended up at 16oz.. I wanted to push the limits of IPA.. inherently shooting hop utilization in the foot

 

[grassfeeder]

What the papazian are you thinking? That's just madness

What do you suggest the total hop bill should weigh in at?

 

[Paps]

i just had a nightmare that my 12 gallons of ipa with conan shot up to 72F b/c the probe fell off of the carboys.

First world problems...LOL

 

[m00ps]

What do you suggest the total hop bill should weigh in at?

Sorry, I was being facetious. I've managed to cram 32oz or more in a 5.5gal batch on a few occaisions with great results.

Nothing to see here. Keep on keeping on folks....

 

[brew703]

the hops were based on a 3.5 gal batch. only want to do a minimal dry hop.
guess ill play around with the hop amts.

 

[grassfeeder]

the hops were based on a 3.5 gal batch. only want to do a minimal dry hop.
guess ill play around with the hop amts.

for a 3.5 gallon batch I'd be doing a very minimal bittering hop, just enough to give you around 30-40 IBU's at most. Probably do 3-4 ounces in the whirlpool at 4 ounces dry hop. you're going to get majority of all your aroma and flavoring from the whirlpool and dry hop stages so don't be shy.

 

[brew703]

for a 3.5 gallon batch I'd be doing a very minimal bittering hop, just enough to give you around 30-40 IBU's at most. Probably do 3-4 ounces in the whirlpool at 4 ounces dry hop. you're going to get majority of all your aroma and flavoring from the whirlpool and dry hop stages so don't be shy.

I've had oxidation issues with large DH additions (since I bottle). I don't want to go any more than 2oz dry hop and want the rest at zero and WP.
I've never had any oxidation issues with the APA's I brew but I've never had large DH additions like I do with the NEIPA's.

 

[grassfeeder]

I've had oxidation issues with large DH additions (since I bottle). I don't want to go any more than 2oz dry hop and want the rest at zero and WP.
I've never had any oxidation issues with the APA's I brew but I've never had large DH additions like I do with the NEIPA's.

yeah, these NEIPA's are a fickle beast for sure.....but soooo worth it! let us know your results!

 

[scottsor]

Since the topic of bottling and oxidation has been brought up...has anybody actually had success bottling this style? I brewed this past Saturday and am hoping to keg next weekend. Problem is I'll be out of town a lot leading up to it and might not have all of the equipment in time, which would force me to bottle.

This is my first attempt at this style (first attempt all grain actually), so I'm not really shooting for the moon. But if bottling is going to oxidize and drastically change the end product I'll do my best to make kegging happen.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

 

[FruityHops]

I have not had any success bottling this style. If you have to bottle it then attach your bottle filling wand to your racking cane and skip transferring to a bottling bucket. Also place carbonation tablets in each bottle before filling them, don't mix priming solution into the batch, and cap each bottle immediately (some would argue that point).

I had always tried going to a separate bottling bucket with priming solution, but supposedly the method outlined above is better. I've given up on bottling and I'm going to be kegging for the first time this weekend. I'm tired of having a good batch become darker and taste "maltier" after bottle conditioning.

I think the head space in the bottles coupled with the fact they sit warm for two weeks while carbonating is a recipe for disaster regardless of any other precautions you can take when bottling.

 

[grassfeeder]

I would wait for you to keg this and then bottle from the keg. I've had great success doing this. I purge each bottle then fill at very very very low PSI and cap immediately.

 

[scottsor]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. Looks like I'll do my best to get a keg setup ready to go.

I'll be sure to update with my progress

 

[LJvermonster]

How easy is it to oxidize a beer? I brewed fermented in my primary bucket with a spigot like usual, added dry hops to the primary, then poured from the primary to the CO2 purged keg.

During the transfer, at the start, I noticed there was quite a bit of bubbles in the tube going into the keg. When I tried the beer with zero carbonation it was fantastic. Had serious potential, the wife even loved it. Now, it tastes like a very sub par beer with a distinct homebrew oxidized (I assume that's it) flavor.

This is just due to the bubbles at the transfer? I opened the spigot up fully open and let it go as fast as possible.

 

[EMH5]

I have not had any success bottling this style. If you have to bottle it then attach your bottle filling wand to your racking cane and skip transferring to a bottling bucket. Also place carbonation tablets in each bottle before filling them, don't mix priming solution into the batch, and cap each bottle immediately (some would argue that point).

I had always tried going to a separate bottling bucket with priming solution, but supposedly the method outlined above is better. I've given up on bottling and I'm going to be kegging for the first time this weekend. I'm tired of having a good batch become darker and taste "maltier" after bottle conditioning.

I think the head space in the bottles coupled with the fact they sit warm for two weeks while carbonating is a recipe for disaster regardless of any other precautions you can take when bottling.

I did not have success bottling this type of beer. Tried it once and after 1 month, it turned brown. It was a DIPA made with 15 oz of hops Citra, Centennial, Chinook and Galaxy. Tasted great after 3 weeks but then it changed quickly. After 6-7 weeks it was not even drinkable. I made one version to keg and have at home and bottled a version to take on the go if I wanted (I have a single tap) so I wasn't drinking them at the same clip. I have kegged a version of this recipe 4 times with no issue at all.

I'd be interested to hear from people that have had success in bottling this.

 

[crusader1612]

That'd be oxidation.

 

[stickyfinger]

my club splits wort and then we return to taste it. no one who bottles has approached the hoppiness of those who keg despite similar hopping rates.

 

[Braufessor]

Hey all. Been trying to get some brewing done, but schedule this time of year is not very friendly to me. One positive update though.... I had brewed 3 batches of this a few weeks back to have on hand when family visited. All 3 batches were basically the updated version. Used 1056 and 1272 in them. One was Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy, one was Citra/Mosaic and one was Citra/Galaxy.

I have to say, the Citra/Galaxy (1.5:1.5 in all 4 additions) might be my favorite batch yet. I love it. That hop combo is definitely going right back to the top of the list for the next batch.

 

[olotti]

Since the topic of bottling and oxidation has been brought up...has anybody actually had success bottling this style? I brewed this past Saturday and am hoping to keg next weekend. Problem is I'll be out of town a lot leading up to it and might not have all of the equipment in time, which would force me to bottle.

This is my first attempt at this style (first attempt all grain actually), so I'm not really shooting for the moon. But if bottling is going to oxidize and drastically change the end product I'll do my best to make kegging happen.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

I never had oxidation issues until I started making these heavily hopped IPAs, don't know what it is but it happened. So I've done a few things to try to change that since I don't keg yet and they've seemed to help. First I don't double dry hop I take the whole dh and put it in primary all at one time whether it's 4 oz or 6 oz, I also now stopped cold crashing for a length of time, I would put my carboy in my fridge for 2-3 days now I only put it in the morning of bottling so it goes in maybe 4-5 hrs I do this jiat to clear some of the yeast but it really may not matter and I'll prob stop cold crashing all together. I think cold crashing for day's Allows a lot of o2 to get in via the suck back and when I bottle I bottle six beers at a time and cap then move on where as before I'd bottle 12-24 then cap. This has seemed to help as the last few ne style IPAs I made using these methods never had any oxidation even after a month being bottled where before doing a double dry hop, cold crashing and the bottling literally caused some beers to oxidize in two weeks. I also saw in another thread that dry hopping near the end of active fermentation helps scrub out some of the O2 if any is introduced.

 

[EndOfLine]

I used to get a lot of oxidation when i cold crashed my fermenters. As the beer got colder, air would rush into the airlock, bubbling in reverse.

Now I only cold crash in pressured kegs. I also now close transfer from my conical to the dry hopping keg.
After 4-7 days of keg hopping I'll put the dry hopping keg in my fridge and put the gas on. After 2-4 days of cold crashing in the keg I'll close transfer the beer to a serving keg. I may do it again after a week if I am taking the keg to a party or a competition.

 

[Duffbrew]

Brau- This is great to hear, I have a batch of 100% Galaxy that is about to be kegged and carbed, will report back with the findings. Been very interested about the Citra / Galaxy combo, will have to do that next.

 

[JJ900]

Hi Guys,
Suppose you were using a Tilt (that thing that measures SG during fermentation) - at what gravity would you want to put the first dry hop in at to get the biotransformation magic? Assuming e.g. Braufessor's OG of 1.060-1.065ish.