New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

SSBrew - 728
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Schemy said:
Brewing this today

OG 1.068
IBU's 74

80% Vienna Malt
10% Rye Malt
10% White Wheat Malt
.75 oz Centennial FWH
1 oz Centennial 15 min
3.5 oz Centennial 30 min Whirlpool
Yeastbay VT IPA yeast.

Water profile Shooting for

Ca 96
Mg 12
Na 28
SO4 67
Cl 128
HCO3 70
pH 5.2 - 5.4
Click to expand...

That sounds delicious, keep us updated! Sounds like a semi-Two Hearted type NEIPA.
 
Me tooooooo! Tried to brew the Two Hearted clone and my yeast harvested from Oberon bottles never took off. Ended up pitching some harvested 1318 from my last batch of Hop Hands clone. I moved the bittering addition to 45 min and plan to do a 2 oz dry hop
 
scottsor said:
Do any of you guys use a plate chiller? I'm considering picking one up but can't decide if the pros outweigh the cons (clogs, etc), especially for this heavily hopped style.
Click to expand...

I switched from plate to IC and would say it has been positive overall.

I used to do a recirculating chill with a plate chiller. It clogged every single time without fail. Hops spiders worked ok to keep the chunks (and prevent clogs) out but the beer was only meh. When it didn't clog it was very quick. I could drop 12G of wort from boiling to 140 in about 3 minutes. The IC takes about 4 minutes.

So while the IC takes slightly longer to chill, it gives back so much more in clean-up time and ease of use. I used to spend an hour flushing, back flushing, flush, back flushing, recirculating hot PBW, again, and again.... and still the chiller would blow out green chunks endlessly.

When i'm done with the IC i lift it out, it dribbles a little bit, and i dump it in the sink and hose it down. And since there is no recirc loop i've got half the hoses in use, which means even less cleaning.

Best of all, i haven't had a clog yet... even with 20oz in the BK on Friday ;-)
 
Just brewed a 54% Briess 2-row, 36% Briess White Wheat and rest was equal parts Flaked Oats and Wheat with Cane Sugar. 9.6% ABV with US05.

Hops were late minute additions of Cascade, Galaxy and Mosaic @70IBU. Just dry hopped with 2oz Cascade and 1oz of Galaxy and Mosaic. I have some old whole leaf citra I may put in the keg. No sure though.

Do you think I should double dry hop? Anyone had good experiences with this amount of hops I'm worried my dry hop is too weak.. also.. for those who purge kegs with CO2 how much is enough?
 
stickyfinger said:
i just had a nightmare that my 12 gallons of ipa with conan shot up to 72F b/c the probe fell off of the carboys.
Click to expand...

Why does that scare you? Anytime I use Conan in these I always let it climb that high. It throws the peach smell like crazy when you do. Makes for a great beer. My temp schedule for conan with these beers is start at 66, let it climb to 68 over two days. Then let it rise to 72 over a couple more days and sit there. Basically as main fermentation is starting to taper it's climbing from 68-72. Then after sitting at 72 for a little while bring it back down slowly to 66/67, then cold crash and package.


I've used it a few times in beers I didn't want as much, or any of that aroma (threw it in a RIS for kicks) and I just kept it at the 66°F mark the whole time. It blew through 1.099 wort really cleanly.
 
RevKev said:
Just brewed a 54% Briess 2-row, 36% Briess White Wheat and rest was equal parts Flaked Oats and Wheat with Cane Sugar. 9.6% ABV with US05.

Hops were late minute additions of Cascade, Galaxy and Mosaic @70IBU. Just dry hopped with 2oz Cascade and 1oz of Galaxy and Mosaic. I have some old whole leaf citra I may put in the keg. No sure though.

Do you think I should double dry hop? Anyone had good experiences with this amount of hops I'm worried my dry hop is too weak.. also.. for those who purge kegs with CO2 how much is enough?
Click to expand...
If you are able.... sample the beer between the 1st and second dry hop and go based on what the beer tastes like at that point.

In regard to CO2..... fill the keg with star san water..... push it out with CO2 on 3-5lbs of pressure. 99% purged. Waaayyyy easier that continually purging and venting an empty keg.
 
Just bought my grains for my next batch... this will be my 5th or 6th rendition of Braufessor's recipe!

6.1# GP
6.1# 2-row
1. # white wheat
.75# flaked barley
.75# golden naked oats
.5 # flaked wheat

5.5 gal batch
OG 1.073
FG. 1.019
ABV 6.98%
Yeast 1318
Hops- Chinook (bitter) - Citra, Amarillo & Centennial about 11 oz total, working out the schedule
 
Braufessor said:
If you are able.... sample the beer between the 1st and second dry hop and go based on what the beer tastes like at that point.

In regard to CO2..... fill the keg with star san water..... push it out with CO2 on 3-5lbs of pressure. 99% purged. Waaayyyy easier that continually purging and venting an empty keg.
Click to expand...

Yeah I have a sampling port on the conical just was wondering if you happened to find a point of diminishing return, I'll probably toss in another three ounces just because why not.

And I use Sankes and have to remove my spears to fill.. not set up for a pressurized push yet.. would it be smart to just take a CO2 line and drop it in the keg and blast pressure in there? I like that idea for when I switch to pressurized transfers thanks for the idea :)

Edit: I just don't want to run Star San through my flow control perlick and have sulfuric off flavor
 
Brewed this 2 weeks ago to 1.063 OG using YB Vermont Ale and 50:50 Citra:Mosiac for the late and dry hops. Very nice mango/pineapple/citrus aroma and flavour. The only thing that is getting me so far is that there seems to still be a good amount of hop matter in suspension despite a 3 day cold crash and leaving behind all of the trub in the kettle and fermenter. So it tastes great but at this point I'm getting a harsh bitterness in the back of the throat. Anyone else get that at first and if so how long until it cleaned up?
 
trav77 said:
Brewed this 2 weeks ago to 1.063 OG using YB Vermont Ale and 50:50 Citra:Mosiac for the late and dry hops. Very nice mango/pineapple/citrus aroma and flavour. The only thing that is getting me so far is that there seems to still be a good amount of hop matter in suspension despite a 3 day cold crash and leaving behind all of the trub in the kettle and fermenter. So it tastes great but at this point I'm getting a harsh bitterness in the back of the throat. Anyone else get that at first and if so how long until it cleaned up?
Click to expand...

are you bagging your hops?
 
trav77 said:
Pellets loose into the fermenter at the end of primary which is my usual process with good results (although I have never used this many dry hops in a batch before).
Click to expand...

yeah, I typically dry hop these beers with 7-9 ounces of hops and bag them and suspend the bag with dental floss so that when I transfer the bag doesn't drop to the bottom and block the flow. Doing this also prevents much, if any sediment to transfer. Nothing that doesn't pour out in the first pint after sitting in the keezer for 2-3 days.
 
I poured a version of this beer at an event last weekend where folks I didn't know filled out tasting cards and indicated if they "Like/Buy/Recommend" the beer (Affirmative = yes response; Negative = No response). Went with 70% pils, 20% wheat, 10% quick oats, with 2nd gen Conan. 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Simcoe for two post-boil additions and 1.5:1:0.5 Citra/Mosaic/Simcoe for two dry hop additions. It was a big hit and trounced my Amarillo/Galaxy saison.

ratings.JPG


comments.JPG
 
So this talk about oxidation.... Does it negatively impact bottled beer less than, equal to, or more than kegged beer?
 
mgr_stl said:
So this talk about oxidation.... Does it negatively impact bottled beer less than, equal to, or more than kegged beer?
Click to expand...

In my experience lately and I only bottle it hits bottled beer a lot easier than purging a keg with co2. However I've started cold crashing the fermenter for about 12hrs as opposed to the 24-36 hrs I used to do and I've had a lot better results along with filling and capping every beer right away as opposed to filling 6 bottles then capping. No real science behind why it's working but it's working better for me anyway as I've had real bad issues with oxidation in some really hop heavy IPAs lately.
 
cegan09 said:
Why does that scare you? Anytime I use Conan in these I always let it climb that high. It throws the peach smell like crazy when you do. Makes for a great beer. My temp schedule for conan with these beers is start at 66, let it climb to 68 over two days. Then let it rise to 72 over a couple more days and sit there. Basically as main fermentation is starting to taper it's climbing from 68-72. Then after sitting at 72 for a little while bring it back down slowly to 66/67, then cold crash and package.





I've used it a few times in beers I didn't want as much, or any of that aroma (threw it in a RIS for kicks) and I just kept it at the 66°F mark the whole time. It blew through 1.099 wort really cleanly.
Click to expand...


it was a dream. i don't know. maybe i thought it had shot to 72 right after pitching. i always fear solvent flavors and prefer lower ferment temps
 
stickyfinger said:
it was a dream. i don't know. maybe i thought it had shot to 72 right after pitching. i always fear solvent flavors and prefer lower ferment temps
Click to expand...

My last batch shot to 90F 6 days into fermentation due to an issue with my controller. I posted the random tasting results on the previous page :)
 
Braufessor said:
If you are able.... sample the beer between the 1st and second dry hop and go based on what the beer tastes like at that point.

In regard to CO2..... fill the keg with star san water..... push it out with CO2 on 3-5lbs of pressure. 99% purged. Waaayyyy easier that continually purging and venting an empty keg.
Click to expand...

That will be my process for the eventual serving keg, but obviously that won't work for the dry hop keg.

What is your process for purging the dry hop keg?

I keg in Sankes, so I am thinking I will toss in the hops, seal up and add the gas to the beer out attachment so the Co2 will fill from the bottom up, with a number of purge cycles.

Another thing I am wondering is how best to pre purge out the O2 from the transfer hoses?:confused:
 
rtracer said:
That will be my process for the eventual serving keg, but obviously that won't work for the dry hop keg.

What is your process for purging the dry hop keg?

I keg in Sankes, so I am thinking I will toss in the hops, seal up and add the gas to the beer out attachment so the Co2 will fill from the bottom up, with a number of purge cycles.

Another thing I am wondering is how best to pre purge out the O2 from the transfer hoses?:confused:
Click to expand...

For dry hop keg, I basically do the same thing... but, then I do pop the top add hops and fill with tubing from fermenter to bottom of dry hop keg.... as full as I can basically get it. Then I put lid back on, purge what tiny head space is left. Not 100% O2 free - but seems to have no real impact on the beer.

In regard to the tubing for transfers - usually I run the first little bit of beer into a glass (for sampling and because the first few ounces of each transfer always has the most gunk in it.) So, the tube is then full of beer and I put the other disconnect on it fast, so it is basically full of liquid and not o2.
 
I used to carefully fill my keg with the lid off and the tube from the fermenter at the bottom, initially filling slowly to avoid aeration. I would then purge the headspace with co2. My last few I have purged the sanitized keg a few times, letting the gas settle in between each cycle for a few minutes as CO2 is higher density than O2. I then disconnect the co2, purge most of the pressure but not all, then connect a tube with liquid disconnect one end on the fermenter spigot (the fermenter on a table and the keg on the floor) and the other onto the liquid post. The remaining pressure clears the tube of air and remaining sanitizer. I then open the spigot and let the tube fill, then open the purge valve, and let gravity do its thing. This fills from bottom up under the blanket of co2.

I have to say, I think it has made a big difference in reducing oxidation and premature aging in my last bunch of beers. My NEIPA is going strong and has not lost its hop fruit after a bunch of weeks.
 
@BrunDog I've thought of doing a closed transfer like that but was afraid of clogs. Do you pull out the poppet or anything?
 
BrunDog said:
I used to carefully fill my keg with the lid off and the tube from the fermenter at the bottom, initially filling slowly to avoid aeration. I would then purge the headspace with co2. My last few I have purged the sanitized keg a few times, letting the gas settle in between each cycle for a few minutes as CO2 is higher density than O2. I then disconnect the co2, purge most of the pressure but not all, then connect a tube with liquid disconnect one end on the fermenter spigot (the fermenter on a table and the keg on the floor) and the other onto the liquid post. The remaining pressure clears the tube of air and remaining sanitizer. I then open the spigot and let the tube fill, then open the purge valve, and let gravity do its thing. This fills from bottom up under the blanket of co2.

I have to say, I think it has made a big difference in reducing oxidation and premature aging in my last bunch of beers. My NEIPA is going strong and has not lost its hop fruit after a bunch of weeks.
Click to expand...

Cool, that about what I have planned for my future kegging, except I use carboys so I plan to use a little Co2 pressure on carby cap to start the siphon.
I also want to devise a small ball valve I can put inline in the transfer hose at the end where the coupler hookup is. I can then start the pressure/siphon slowly, and once the line is full of beer, close the valve, hook it up to the keg, then open the valve to do the transfer. This way the lines will also be completly purged. Likely overkill, but hey what the hell...
 
rtracer said:
Cool, that about what I have planned for my future kegging, except I use carboys so I plan to use a little Co2 pressure on carby cap to start the siphon.
I also want to devise a small ball valve I can put inline in the transfer hose at the end where the coupler hookup is. I can then start the pressure/siphon slowly, and once the line is full of beer, close the valve, hook it up to the keg, then open the valve to do the transfer. This way the lines will also be completly purged. Likely overkill, but hey what the hell...
Click to expand...

How about purging the line before starting the siphon? When i fermented in carboys that's what i did.

I'd start with a carboy full of beer, and a keg that had been water purged with co2 (so it was under pressure). I'd bleed the keg down to a couple PSI by pulling the PRV, then attach the racking cane with disconnect to the liquid side of the keg. It would blow out the rest of the co2 (make sure to this before you insert it into the carboy otherwise you will be unhappy). Then insert racking cane+cap into carboy, apply pressure, and you're off.
 
schematix said:
How about purging the line before starting the siphon? When i fermented in carboys that's what i did.

I'd start with a carboy full of beer, and a keg that had been water purged with co2 (so it was under pressure). I'd bleed the keg down to a couple PSI by pulling the PRV, then attach the racking cane with disconnect to the liquid side of the keg. It would blow out the rest of the co2 (make sure to this before you insert it into the carboy otherwise you will be unhappy). Then insert racking cane+cap into carboy, apply pressure, and you're off.
Click to expand...

That would work, but since I keg in Sanke 1/6ths, I have a big open tube where the hex bolt goes on the coupler so I assume it would quickly re-fill with O2.
 
Just brewed up an iteration loosely based on OP's recipe with same hop additions using equal parts Galaxy/Citra/Equinox. Fermenting away 16 hours in with Gigayeast Vermont IPA (Conan). Fermentation chamber smells like mangoes and peaches already.

I bottle also, so hoping to see how this shakes out in a few weeks. Are there recommended practices for us bottlers for this style (like conditioning colder than room temp?)

Will report back.

Thank OP for the great write up and recipe.

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Brewed my second iteration of this recipe. First time with citra/mosaic/galaxy combo. After drinking Julius, Haze, Lights On, and Alter Ego tonight this one holds up really well. One thing I did a little differently was add an ounce of citra and galaxy before adding yeast per Scott Janish's pre-fermentation addition http://scottjanish.com/
 
beardandbutter said:
Brewed my second iteration of this recipe. First time with citra/mosaic/galaxy combo. After drinking Julius, Haze, Lights On, and Alter Ego tonight this one holds up really well. One thing I did a little differently was add an ounce of citra and galaxy before adding yeast per Scott Janish's pre-fermentation addition http://scottjanish.com/
Click to expand...

can you give the cliff notes of what effect dry hopping prior to fermentation has?
 
tjosborne said:
@BrunDog I've thought of doing a closed transfer like that but was afraid of clogs. Do you pull out the poppet or anything?
Click to expand...


Great question. I usually pull a sample jar off for tasting and hydro measurement (though I use a brewometer and usually know already), and that helps clear the spigot. Also better if cold crashed before that. Then since the transfer takes a while it doesn't seem to clog even with the poppers in. Sometimes debris settles in the tube but the flow is too slow to push it up into the keg.
 
Hey, I have been doing a recipe similar to this for a year or two now with small changes, this is what I have ended up with so far. I cant believe how close we ended up here. I remember working out the Psuedo Sue clone with you Braufessor on here, seems we kind of took the same path. to get here.

68% 2row
20% Marris Otter
3.5% Flaked Oats
3.5% Flaked Barley
sometimes all oats sometimes all barley, no perceived difference in any combo. Sometimes I'll use a little lactose too.
5% Honey Malt
1oz Columbus or Warrior 45min
1.25 Citra 5min
.75 Galaxy 5min
.75 Mosaic 5min
1.75 Citra 0min
.75 Galaxy 0min
.75 Mosaic 0min
3 Citra Whirlpool @ 175 30min
2 Mosaic Whirlpool @ 175 30min
1.5 Citra first DH while still fermenting
1 Mosaic first DH while still fermenting
1.5 Citra DH 2-3 days after first DH
1 Mosaic DH 2-3 days after first DH
mash @ 150-152
ferment w/ WLP007 or Vermont Ale
145 Calcium
200 Sulfate
100 Chloride
40 Bicarbs
5.3-5.4ph
I do all my DH in the carboy and cold crash this for about 12 hours at 35-40, before transferring to the keg. I purge the keg by pushing star san out with my CO2 and then syphon into the out port, which has worked well so far.

I normally have this in the keg within 2 weeks of brew day for maximum hoppy freshness. Here lies my question. I have a competition coming up in Nov, I am leaving town for work on Sunday and brewing on Saturday because I don't know how long I'll be gone and if I'll have time to brew this when I'll get back. Has anybody brewed something similar and left it sit in the fermenter for 2-3 weeks before DH? How did it effect freshness, aroma, flavor, etc.?
 
jammin said:
can you give the cliff notes of what effect dry hopping prior to fermentation has?
Click to expand...


The biotransformation the yeast and hops have while the yeast are still fermenting can help add the juicy like aroma we're searching for in these beers.

While adding it at the end of fermentation is good enough, Scott recommended trying it at the beginning of fermentation because there could be a larger biotransformation with the yeast. Hops high in linalool oils (I believe that was the correct oil) and contact with the yeast provide the 'juice'.

I'm trying to recall all the info so reading the article would be best.
 
WiscoBrewer said:
Hey, I have been doing a recipe similar to this for a year or two now with small changes, this is what I have ended up with so far. I cant believe how close we ended up here. I remember working out the Psuedo Sue clone with you Braufessor on here, seems we kind of took the same path. to get here.



68% 2row

20% Marris Otter

3.5% Flaked Oats

3.5% Flaked Barley

sometimes all oats sometimes all barley, no perceived difference in any combo. Sometimes I'll use a little lactose too.

5% Honey Malt

1oz Columbus or Warrior 45min

1.25 Citra 5min

.75 Galaxy 5min

.75 Mosaic 5min

1.75 Citra 0min

.75 Galaxy 0min

.75 Mosaic 0min

3 Citra Whirlpool @ 175 30min

2 Mosaic Whirlpool @ 175 30min

1.5 Citra first DH while still fermenting

1 Mosaic first DH while still fermenting

1.5 Citra DH 2-3 days after first DH

1 Mosaic DH 2-3 days after first DH

mash @ 150-152

ferment w/ WLP007 or Vermont Ale

145 Calcium

200 Sulfate

100 Chloride

40 Bicarbs

5.3-5.4ph

I do all my DH in the carboy and cold crash this for about 12 hours at 35-40, before transferring to the keg. I purge the keg by pushing star san out with my CO2 and then syphon into the out port, which has worked well so far.



I normally have this in the keg within 2 weeks of brew day for maximum hoppy freshness. Here lies my question. I have a competition coming up in Nov, I am leaving town for work on Sunday and brewing on Saturday because I don't know how long I'll be gone and if I'll have time to brew this when I'll get back. Has anybody brewed something similar and left it sit in the fermenter for 2-3 weeks before DH? How did it effect freshness, aroma, flavor, etc.?
Click to expand...


I haven't waited that long to DH in a long time. On my most recent batch I wasn't able to DH when I wanted due to Hurricane Matthew evacuation. While I feel DH at the tail end of fermentation can help with the biotransformation of the yeast and hops I bet you'd still be ok to DH that late. Many brewers do a 'mini cold crash' - meaning dropping the temp to 58-60* -to help drop the yeast so they can save it and then DH. Maybe throw in a few extra ounces to help give you that extra punch you in the face aroma. I would think the flavor will still be ok after 2-3 weeks.

If there's a way to let it ferment out and then someone can cool it for you until you return that might work.
 
jammin said:
can you give the cliff notes of what effect dry hopping prior to fermentation has?
Click to expand...

Basically what lilbova3 said above.

In his "Some Other Thoughts" section of "Fermenting Under Pressure":

"Pre-fermentation additions of Galaxy in the London Ale III beer (I chose this for its higher total oil content vs. Citra) seems to be working out extremely well for me. I may have to try to experiment with more at this phase vs. the steep/whirlpool addition."

I had asked him a question about it on one of his posts since I read "pre-fermentation addition" and didn't know if he meant hop stand or what, but he replied: "Yup, before the wort and yeast is added to the fermenter. I like the results so far and I don’t see a downside (yet) of adding hops, even in small amounts, at every chance you get! I haven’t experienced any fermentation issues with the hops in right away either, I’ve harvested (top-cropped) some of these beers to without issues as well."
 

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