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American IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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couchsending

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VU046
So must be a good batch then. I'll get back to you once I opened it and used. Thank you for the info!
So the lower the nr the earlier the harvest I guess?
Not sure on the number exactly but that’s what I was told. Ideally lower than 80. I think it’s just based on analyzing what they would get and trying to determine the good from the bad based on those lot numbers. Reliable source for sure but I think they’d admit to not knowing if it’s a 100% true assumption or not.
 

Rothbard69

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What are you guys thoughts on using all Golden Promise as a base malt? I usually do half 2 row and half GP with flaked oats and white wheat malt. I dont see it used very often as the only base but it seems it would give the NEIPA a bit more flavor
 

beervoid

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What are you guys thoughts on using all Golden Promise as a base malt? I usually do half 2 row and half GP with flaked oats and white wheat malt. I dont see it used very often as the only base but it seems it would give the NEIPA a bit more flavor
If u get in dipa territory you might get a bit too dark of a colour but I did many good 6-7% beers with GP only
 

MrPowers

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Correct me if I’m wrong but a malt bill of European Pils and Golden Promise plus a bunch of oats and wheat might be a bit deficient in FAN. If you go with Pils and not 2row I might go with a North American Pils over say German Pils.
That's something that the malt data sheets would be able to tell you. But considering the original recipe only had about 10% wheat/oats, it's not something I would be concerned about.
 

couchsending

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That's something that the malt data sheets would be able to tell you. But considering the original recipe only had about 10% wheat/oats, it's not something I would be concerned about.
Yes at that percentage you’re probably right. However you are also using two base malts that are much lower in total protein than standard American 2 Row.
If you’re looking for haze, you’d need more than 10% or higher protein adjuncts. There are however many other variables at play.
 

MrPowers

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Yes at that percentage you’re probably right. However you are also using two base malts that are much lower in total protein than standard American 2 Row.
If you’re looking for haze, you’d need more than 10% or higher protein adjuncts. There are however many other variables at play.
Ya, it varies maltster to maltster, but Weyermann pils/barke pils is usually on par with Rahr 2-Row for protein content. Golden Promise is usually slightly lower, but not dramatically.

I would say it depends more on what kind of haze you're looking for. If you're looking for the more "murky" haze (other half, trillium, etc...) that comes with higher wheat/oat content, then you would probably want to use north american pils/2-row, strictly for the higher diastatic power. But if you're looking for the softer haze (alchemist, toppling goliath) that comes from hop-yeast interaction, then you don't really need the higher protein adjuncts anyway. I think it was @Cavpilot2000 usually only uses base malt + chit/carafoam + a small amount of character malt (aromatic, honey, c10, etc...) with great results. I've been really happy with my NEIPA's that are very low/no wheat/oats/rye/etc... and have no issues with haze stability.
 

Dgallo

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Please expand. Are you going lower on mash temp to get a drier beer but feel it’s still keeping its softness and fullness even with a lower FG?
Exactly. With a high protein grain bill, yeast choice, and higher dryhop rates 1.5-2.0 oz per gallon, the beer will still have a solid body regardless of its fg. What I’ve been noticed being the biggest difference is my beers that were around 1.018 had great body but finished heavy. The most recent beers I mashed lower were at 1.012 still had the great body but finished lighter on the palate. This is what I feel gives that true pillow soft mouthfeel.
 

Fergal

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What’s the number? Probably the same as mine as the picture of the box they posted online is the same as the lot numbers I have. Pretty sure it’s VVU51? VVU means grown in Victoria I believe. TTU is Tasmania. Was told to look for numbers lower than 80 Ideally and Victoria better than Tasmania??
I'm pretty sure Galaxy was first grown in Tasmania and therefore those lots would be the more mature hops but I could have that the wrong way around.. I wonder if the bush fires have had an effect on the quality of the hops. Tassie had some bad fires in 2018/2019 summer and obviously Vic did last year too. I know it effects the Wine growing regions from a long way away. I guess the Portland fires might do the same in Yakima this year? Does the Oregon area get a lot of fires like this?
 

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:( Just lost like 7 litres of beer. Accidentally left line attached to the liquid outpost of my Fermzilla after taking a hydrometer sample. Forgot to switch it back to the gas post.
 

couchsending

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I'm pretty sure Galaxy was first grown in Tasmania and therefore those lots would be the more mature hops but I could have that the wrong way around.. I wonder if the bush fires have had an effect on the quality of the hops. Tassie had some bad fires in 2018/2019 summer and obviously Vic did last year too. I know it effects the Wine growing regions from a long way away. I guess the Portland fires might do the same in Yakima this year? Does the Oregon area get a lot of fires like this?
Yeah I don’t know. This is just what I’ve been told by someone who’s been buying Galaxy commercially for 6 or 7 years and has come to this hypothesis based on what they’ve bought over that time period. I know maturity of plants has a lot to do with quality at the beginning but I believe after say the first two years when the plant is established soil, weather, harvest date, pelletizing process, etc have a bigger impact on the final product. Could be wrong.

Fires are pretty typical in Oregon/Washington/Idaho this time of year but have been getting worse and this year has been really bad. Interested to see how it impacts things. I think HAAS just released something saying harvest was projected to be up from last year 3 weeks ago but will no be closer to last year. There were some really bad wind storms that did some damage to a lot of hop yards and really fueled the fires (which I don’t think have burned any hops but has probably made harvesting a lot more difficult due to smoke)
 

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Since he hasn't had a chance to answer yet, yes. You could make that swap. It would strictly be for personal preference. It would possibly lighten up the color a shade and add a slightly more crackery/light-toast malt flavor (depending on what pils malt you select).
thank you for this!
 

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Has anyone played much with the Yakima Chief American Nobel Hops yet? I picked up some Simcoe that is 3.3% AA. Is this the same amount of flavor without the IBUs? What place do you think these hops have in this style?
 

couchsending

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Has anyone played much with the Yakima Chief American Nobel Hops yet? I picked up some Simcoe that is 3.3% AA. Is this the same amount of flavor without the IBUs? What place do you think these hops have in this style?
I’ve made 10-15 beers with them in some way I think as well as has a few commercial examples that used them.

They’re really unique for sure. I’ve used all the varieties I think. Simcoe, Mosaic, Cascade, Citra.

I mostly use them for lagers and “blonde” ales. They are incredibly floral and it’s almost shocking how well they come through fermentation. Even just using them with 10 minutes left in the boil it’s crazy how well the aroma translates to the finished beer in lighter styles. I don’t ever dry hop these beers and don’t think I need to as they’re very aromatic even after 2 months of lagering.

I’ve used them for dry hopping IPAs 2 or 3 times. Just did yesterday actually. I’m usually not a fan of dry hopping during fermentation but with these I will. There are a lot of aromatic compounds found in the leaf material that can be released by yeast. With such low alpha you don’t run the risk of potentially affecting fermentation either. Using them in a beer that uses 6 different kinds of Citra. Cryo, T-90, American Noble, LupoMax, Leaf, and Terpenes. Done the same with Mosaic. I usually only add them during fermentation for really hoppy beer but thinking of maybe adding them during the boil in the future.

They definitely don’t deliver much flavor, it’s almost all aroma. You can tell it’s the variety but it’s not blatantly obvious. Again they’re very floral and slightly fruity.

They definitely lack any sort of depth, spice, resin, etc. On their own they’re boring but paired with say Sterling or Saaz or Perle on the hotside of a pils or blonde they add a big aromatic punch that’s more “modern” than you standard Noble hop with zero hop oiliness.

Ritebrew has all the varieties and they’re quite cheap.
 

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I finally brewed again today. Have had terrible luck with my NE IPAs lately, not sure why. I used to make really good ones. Last couple were pretty bad. I actually dumped almost entire 5 gallon keg as it tasted sour in a bad way. Hoping to have some better luck. Recent failures have killed my enthusiasm for brewing. :(
 

wepeeler

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What are you guys thoughts on using all Golden Promise as a base malt? I usually do half 2 row and half GP with flaked oats and white wheat malt. I dont see it used very often as the only base but it seems it would give the NEIPA a bit more flavor
I've got an all Citra kegged right now where I used only GP as base. Exactly 3 weeks old today. Fermented for 14 days, DH on day 13. Been kegged 7 days. Looking and tasting great, but I can see it clearing out sooner than all 2 row.
 

secretlevel

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I finally brewed again today. Have had terrible luck with my NE IPAs lately, not sure why. I used to make really good ones. Last couple were pretty bad. I actually dumped almost entire 5 gallon keg as it tasted sour in a bad way. Hoping to have some better luck. Recent failures have killed my enthusiasm for brewing. :(
If you post your pH, water details, hop schedule, and recipe details then I'm sure folks will be happy to help :)
 

nebulabrewing

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I have some availability this weekend to brew, so I'm looking to brew a hazy with my house recipe, but switching up the hops. I have an ounce of Motueka sitting in the freezer, so I'm going to use that in the FWH. I'm thinking of adding Columbus, Galaxy, and Sabro later in process.

This is my first time using Sabro. For those of you that have experience and have paired Galaxy with Sabro, what ratios would you recommend?
 

nebulabrewing

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I've got an all Citra kegged right now where I used only GP as base. Exactly 3 weeks old today. Fermented for 14 days, DH on day 13. Been kegged 7 days. Looking and tasting great, but I can see it clearing out sooner than all 2 row.
Interesting. I have the opposite experience. GP usually stays hazy depending on what yeast I use those. I've used S04 with GP in the past and it was crystal clear. Thanks for posting this, though. After all these years, I've yet to brew an all Citra beer. I need to add this to the list.
 

nebulabrewing

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Exactly. With a high protein grain bill, yeast choice, and higher dryhop rates 1.5-2.0 oz per gallon, the beer will still have a solid body regardless of its fg. What I’ve been noticed being the biggest difference is my beers that were around 1.018 had great body but finished heavy. The most recent beers I mashed lower were at 1.012 still had the great body but finished lighter on the palate. This is what I feel gives that true pillow soft mouthfeel.
No one believed me when I mentioned and shared my hazies that were mashed at 148-149. My hazies at 149 came out with a full, creamy body thanks to the hops and the high-protein malts I used.
 

BeerFst

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I have some availability this weekend to brew, so I'm looking to brew a hazy with my house recipe, but switching up the hops. I have an ounce of Motueka sitting in the freezer, so I'm going to use that in the FWH. I'm thinking of adding Columbus, Galaxy, and Sabro later in process.

This is my first time using Sabro. For those of you that have experience and have paired Galaxy with Sabro, what ratios would you recommend?
I've only done one beer with Sabro. It was Mosaic/CTZ Whirlpool, 7oz galaxy, 1oz sabro dry hop >> 12.5% of the dry hop. The beer had this vague tropicality to it, which i think came from the sabro. it didnt come off as coconut by any stretch though. if i did that beer again i might try 6:2 or even 6:3
 

R.A.I.D

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What would be your recommends for hop combinations for a crowd pleaser and local competition NEIPA award winner? (Boil, WP and DH)
 

nebulabrewing

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What would be your recommends for hop combinations for a crowd pleaser and local competition NEIPA award winner? (Boil, WP and DH)
Are you looking to purchase hops?

I enjoy:
El Dorado/Galaxy/Citra
Galaxy/Columbus
Azacca/Galaxy/Citra
Centennial/Galaxy/Citra/Mosaic
Motueka/Galaxy/Citra
 

BongoYodeler

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Just measured out ingredients for my Strata/I7 brew tomorrow. I’m not getting much dank out of my strata and it actually smells much less intense than the Idaho 7. But man, it smells good! This hop is definitely going to become a classic.

Recipe is inspired by the Tree House Bright series.
1.067
93.4% Fawcett Pearl
6.6% Briess Aromatic

30 min boil (to keep thermal stress down due to the long whirlpool/plus it saves time)
45IBU Yakima Extract @ 30 min
Strata/I7 whirlpool & dry hop

US-05 (really my first time using 05 since I’ve gotten my process dialed in)

Going with a water profile of about 100ppm calcium, 200ppm Cl, 80ppm SO4, and the other minerals will fall where they fall.
Did you ever brew this? If so have you been able to try it yet? Just curious how it came out is you did.
 

MrPowers

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Did you ever brew this? If so have you been able to try it yet? Just curious how it came out is you did.
I just dry hopped it three days ago. Will be crashing tomorrow evening. Ended up going with 91.5/5/3.5 Pearl/Aromatic/Flaked Oats.
 

Tyler B

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Just finished my first ever NEIPA, pretty similar to OPs updated/edited third version. I did my water profile slightly different and at times it tasted a little minerally (maybe chalky?). It was still fantastic and lasted less than two weeks in the keg. Hazy and VERY fruity. My daughter said the room smelled like mango juice when I was kegging it. Success! Exceeded my expectations, but to be honest I don't have access to very many of these. Mine came out a tiny bit darker than I had hoped but I am limited with my equipment, so still happy.

Here is a picture of it...
 

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secretlevel

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Just finished my first ever NEIPA, pretty similar to OPs updated/edited third version. I did my water profile slightly different and at times it tasted a little minerally (maybe chalky?). It was still fantastic and lasted less than two weeks in the keg. Hazy and VERY fruity. My daughter said the room smelled like mango juice when I was kegging it. Success! Exceeded my expectations, but to be honest I don't have access to very many of these. Mine came out a tiny bit darker than I had hoped but I am limited with my equipment, so still happy.

Here is a picture of it...
Well done. The only way from here is up!

Something that worked for me before closed transfers is using fermenters with a spigot. Cold crash, open once to dry hop and eventually transfer into a purged keg using that spigot. Crack the keg lid slightly, put the hose all the way to the bottom and transfer. Be sure to purge the keg a bunch after this.

Another thing you can do is use a mylar balloon on your airlock to prevent O2 ingress during cold crash but I never had issues without one. Finally, I've sometimes added a the dry hop to keg in a muslin bag + non-flavored floss.
 

tld6008

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I know kid, the glow is mesmerizing isn't it? Its like looking into a crystal ball for the answers to life. and when your daddy drinks enough "crystal balls" he does have all the answers to life! :) lol
Mesmerized is exactly what came to my mind when I saw that photo....aside from the tasty looking beer.
 

anteater8

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What would be your recommends for hop combinations for a crowd pleaser and local competition NEIPA award winner? (Boil, WP and DH)
1. OP's recipe
2. CTZ at 60 min to 30 IBU, 2 oz each Citra/Mosaic/Idaho 7 in the whirlpool and dry hop
3. CTZ at 60 min to 30 IBU, 3 oz each Citra/Mosaic in the whirlpool, 4 oz citra 3 oz amarillo and 1 oz galaxy dry hop
4. Trillium Melcher Street clone: American IPA - Trilium Melcher Street Clone
 

wepeeler

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1. OP's recipe
2. CTZ at 60 min to 30 IBU, 2 oz each Citra/Mosaic/Idaho 7 in the whirlpool and dry hop
3. CTZ at 60 min to 30 IBU, 3 oz each Citra/Mosaic in the whirlpool, 4 oz citra 3 oz amarillo and 1 oz galaxy dry hop
4. Trillium Melcher Street clone: American IPA - Trilium Melcher Street Clone
Personally I think 30 IBU at 60 is a bit much. You can get more complex flavors by adding more hops throughout the boil.

A lot of people here have been skipping the 60 min addition with good success. I finally tried it with my last all Citra neipa and the bitterness is still there, but it's much softer. 30 min addition 15ish IBU, 15 min addition 9ish IBU, 5 min addition 7ish IBU. HUGE WP at 180 for 20 min 30ish IBU. All IBU calculated via Beersmith so take that how you want. BS says I'm getting 60.8 IBU total. It's definitely not a bitter bomb. Super soft and balanced. Loving it so far.

20200920_135915_01.jpg
 

ShaLaH

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I'm curious if anyone acidifies their wort post-boil? I've been doing Sours lately which require this and was wondering if there's an optimal wort ph prior to fermenting and dry hopping for NE IPA's.
 

Dgallo

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I'm curious if anyone acidifies their wort post-boil? I've been doing Sours lately which require this and was wondering if there's an optimal wort ph prior to fermenting and dry hopping for NE IPA's.
I can’t fully speak on this but I’ve been trying to get my post boil ph down to 5.0-5.1.

the only time for sours I preacidify to 4.5-4.6 is when I’m using grain, stick, or anything like that. If I’m pitching proper pitch rate cultures I don’t bother
 

ShaLaH

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I can’t fully speak on this but I’ve been trying to get my post boil ph down to 5.0-5.1.

the only time for sours I preacidify to 4.5-4.6 is when I’m using grain, stick, or anything like that. If I’m pitching proper pitch rate cultures I don’t bother
Are you doing Kettle Sours? I've been doing Co-Pitch Sours, so I add LAB before I add Sacch yeast. Lowering the ph to 4.5 prior to pitching LAB inhibits unwanted bacterial growth since it may be a couple days before I add my primary yeast.

Are you using lactic or phosphoric acid to get down to 5.0-5.1?
 
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