New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Tyler B]

Ha.... I was thinking the same thing as I was trying to catch up on anything new in the thread Just gotten busy over the past year (still brewing steady). But, between my job (teaching/coaching) and my too many hobbies (gardening, sourdough baking, fermenting veggies, etc) I just haven't had time to keep up.... and, honestly, I have not had a lot to add to the original process - still pretty much what I do.
For what it is worth, I still basically use the guidelines I posted in "Edit #2" which is linked in the OP. I would say one thing is I tend to keep the pH lower than what I originally did. I used to let it float a little higher 5.35-5.40.... I pretty much always keep it at 5.30 now - not that it probably matters that much. But, as far as a starting point, that second edit recipe and variations are pretty much exactly what I still do when it comes time to put an IPA in the fermenter.


Going for the trifecta today - Fermented bread, fermented peppers and hoping to get a beer brewed as well
View attachment 697048View attachment 697049

THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH for starting this thread, sharing your original recipe, and the subsequent updates. I just kegged my first NEIPA and while it is a little oxidized (I just don't have the equipment to eliminated oxygen exposure), it is still a GREAT tasting/smelling beer. It certainly exceeded my expectations. This brew has taught me a ton about hopping techniques and water chemistry.

Regarding too many hobbies and being busy with life, I can relate as a father and teacher with too many hobbies. Those chilis and bread look delicious though...

 

[Tyler B]

Depends a bit on your interpretation of “session”... we talking 4.5% light bodied, on the drier side? Or more like 5% packed with hop flavor and aroma but low in ABV?

I was kind of thinking both... Maybe 4.5ish% packed full of dank hop aromas. Dry is fine too.

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks, guys! While staying true to the spirit of this thread, how would you hop a danky session beer with those hops (Strata/Columbus/Apollo/Summit)? A healthy whirlpool addition with two or three of those? Dry hops? Any bittering hops?

For a summit or Columbus, and strata beer I’d use a ratio of 2 to 1 (Columbus/Summit to Strata) on the hot side and then would just simply reverse it for the dryhop. Say something simple like

grains
75% - 2 row
20% - flaked barley, wheat, oats
5% - 20-30L grain (biscuit, honey, Caramunich, c20)
Targeted og - 1.050ish
Targeted fg - 1.012-1.014

hop schedule
.25 oz Columbus or summit at 60
.75oz Columbus or summit at 5

whirlpool
(180 If you want more bitterness 160 if not)
2.0 oz Columbus or summit
1.5 oz strata

dryhop
3oz strata
1.5oz Columbus

you can certainly up ths total hopping rates. I just based them off what I would do with that size og

 

[Tyler B]

For a summit or Columbus, and strata beer I’d use a ratio of 2 to 1 (Columbus/Summit to Strata) on the hot side and then would just simply reverse it for the dryhop. Say something simple like

grains
75% - 2 row
20% - flaked barley, wheat, oats
5% - 20-30L grain (biscuit, honey, Caramunich, c20)
Targeted og - 1.050ish
Targeted fg - 1.012-1.014

hop schedule
.25 oz Columbus or summit at 60
.75oz Columbus or summit at 5

whirlpool
(180 If you want more bitterness 160 if not)
2.0 oz Columbus or summit
1.5 oz strata

dryhop
3oz strata
1.5oz Columbus

you can certainly up ths total hopping rates. I just based them off what I would do with that size og

That is SUPER helpful! I really appreciate it. As soon as I get my hands on some Strata hops, I'll give it a try.

I'm thinking an April 20th 4.2% dank smelling brew would be fun. I have some friends that would get a kick out of it. If/when I try it, I'll report back.

Thanks, bro!

 

[tld6008]

Ha.... I was thinking the same thing as I was trying to catch up on anything new in the thread Just gotten busy over the past year (still brewing steady). But, between my job (teaching/coaching) and my too many hobbies (gardening, sourdough baking, fermenting veggies, etc) I just haven't had time to keep up.... and, honestly, I have not had a lot to add to the original process - still pretty much what I do.
For what it is worth, I still basically use the guidelines I posted in "Edit #2" which is linked in the OP. I would say one thing is I tend to keep the pH lower than what I originally did. I used to let it float a little higher 5.35-5.40.... I pretty much always keep it at 5.30 now - not that it probably matters that much. But, as far as a starting point, that second edit recipe and variations are pretty much exactly what I still do when it comes time to put an IPA in the fermenter.


Going for the trifecta today - Fermented bread, fermented peppers and hoping to get a beer brewed as well
View attachment 697048View attachment 697049

Good to hear from you, I was wondering when you would chime in. Hope you weren't negative impacted by that derecho.

 

[Braufessor]

Good to hear from you, I was wondering when you would chime in. Hope you weren't negative impacted by that derecho.

We were lucky.... I am up in the NE corner of the state by Decorah and we did not really get any of that. All of the major damage was through the center of the state. I have some friends and relatives though that got hit - Pretty unreal. Cedar Rapids looked like a war zone.

 

[ChiknNutz]

Just getting back into the game of brewing after a few year hiatus. I don't want to read this 322 page thread, (I started, but I have kids). Anyway is the original recipe still awesome? I assume it's a safe bet? Going to pick up ingredients tomorrow.

A couple weeks ago I brewed a pretty close version of the OPs recipe, but I also added 1# of lactose. I am happy with it and let some friends try it that are also on the same NEIPA kick I am, they said it's one of the best ones they've had locally. I told them to be honest, not just patronize me, and they claimed they were.

We all agree that it has a noticeable orange taste at first. One of them asked me if I used orange peel, which I did not, only hops. It does remind of a Smash Orange IPA I made that used orange peel. I will also say that the hop aroma has already died off pretty quickly, sadly. I have been very careful about O2 intrusion, so have employed closed transfers from primary fermenter to purged serving keg.

 

[Braufessor]

A couple weeks ago I brewed a pretty close version of the OPs recipe, but I also added 1# of lactose. I am happy with it and let some friends try it that are also on the same NEIPA kick I am, they said it's one of the best ones they've had locally. I told them to be honest, not just patronize me, and they claimed they were.

We all agree that it has a noticeable orange taste at first. One of them asked me if I used orange peel, which I did not, only hops. It does remind of a Smash Orange IPA I made that used orange peel. I will also say that the hop aroma has already died off pretty quickly, sadly. I have been very careful about O2 intrusion, so have employed closed transfers from primary fermenter to purged serving keg.

View attachment 697258

Speaking of "orange peel"...... I have done a brew for summer each of the last two springs.... brew it about March or so to have it ready for June/July/August. It is my Edit #2 recipe - so, basically the above as far as grain bill. I do the mash, collect the wort, boil for 5-10 minutes. Chill it to 95-100 degrees, bubble CO2 into the wort (still in kettle) like oxygenating wort... but, with CO2... getting O2 out. pitch Omega Lacto blend, cover with Saran Wrap and lid, kettle sour over night for 18-24 hours. Bring it back up to boil, proceed as normal...... 1 hour boil, Hop schedule as above. Pitch 1056 yeast. Dry hop on day 2. About day 10-12 I zest a couple grapefruit, a couple tangerine, a few oranges, a lemon..... take about 50-70 grams of fruit zest and put it in fermenter. Let it go several more days. Somewhere in the 18-21 day range I prime with corn sugar to 3.0 volumes. Bottle in 750ml bottles. Set away at room temp until summer. It is a great summer beer. Sour Citrus IPA.

 

[JohnConnor]

What would you say you’re getting from boiling simcoe at 30? I’m Genuinely interested and willing to try it out.

Sorry for the delay. I haven't had the chance to follow up. I would say general fruitiness. Seems to compliment any hops I use later. Anecdotal forsure but when I've added simcoe I get more comments (I jot these down as people drink my beers. Helps me see hop combination and what how people perceive them) about fruitiness. I was always afraid of piney or over bitter but not even close to the story.

 

[Tyler B]

Speaking of "orange peel"...... I have done a brew for summer each of the last two springs.... brew it about March or so to have it ready for June/July/August. It is my Edit #2 recipe - so, basically the above as far as grain bill. I do the mash, collect the wort, boil for 5-10 minutes. Chill it to 95-100 degrees, bubble CO2 into the wort (still in kettle) like oxygenating wort... but, with CO2... getting O2 out. pitch Omega Lacto blend, cover with Saran Wrap and lid, kettle sour over night for 18-24 hours. Bring it back up to boil, proceed as normal...... 1 hour boil, Hop schedule as above. Pitch 1056 yeast. Dry hop on day 2. About day 10-12 I zest a couple grapefruit, a couple tangerine, a few oranges, a lemon..... take about 50-70 grams of fruit zest and put it in fermenter. Let it go several more days. Somewhere in the 18-21 day range I prime with corn sugar to 3.0 volumes. Bottle in 750ml bottles. Set away at room temp until summer. It is a great summer beer. Sour Citrus IPA.

Ever try Lallemand Philly Sour yeast? Might make for an easier brew and a similar tasty beer. I just used the yeast for the first time in a completely different beer and really liked it. It's one I'll definitely be experimenting with in the near future.

 

[Dgallo]

Sorry for the delay. I haven't had the chance to follow up. I would say general fruitiness. Seems to compliment any hops I use later. Anecdotal forsure but when I've added simcoe I get more comments (I jot these down as people drink my beers. Helps me see hop combination and what how people perceive them) about fruitiness. I was always afraid of piney or over bitter but not even close to the story.

Idk if you have access to equilibrium beers or have had them but they have a simcoe single hop series of a single, double and triple ipa called harvester of simcoe and they literally get pure orange sherbet from it. Pretty impressive to say the least

 

[BongoYodeler]

Idk if you have access to equilibrium beers or have had them but they have a simcoe single hop series of a single, double and triple ipa called harvester of simcoe and they literally get pure orange sherbet from it. Pretty impressive to say the least

Interesting. I've never gotten much other than grapefruit peel. But them again I've never tried holding it back until strictly whirlpool and DH. I'll tuck this info away for a future brew.

 

[Dgallo]

Interesting. I've never gotten much other than grapefruit peel. But them again I've never tried holding it back until strictly whirlpool and DH. I'll tuck this info away for a future brew.

Ive never gotten it my self with any of the simcoe I have had. EQ is now in the Big Boys Club and get the pick of the best hops available. That’s most likely part of it

 

[couchsending]

Simcoe might be one of my favorite hops right now. I use it in just about everything. Simcoe is a very different hop now than it used to be. I don’t usually use it on its own but I’ve been using it a lot on hotside and then in small amounts in DH. It’s very fruit forward with some awesome complex notes.

If you’re using a clean American ale yeast I think you’ll get more of the classic pine/resin out of it but I think with most English ale yeasts it’s a whole different beast.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Ever try Lallemand Philly Sour yeast? Might make for an easier brew and a similar tasty beer. I just used the yeast for the first time in a completely different beer and really liked it. It's one I'll definitely be experimenting with in the near future.

Yes I just did it 2 weeks ago. I pitched 2 packets of philly sour. Fermeted under pressure in the fermzilla at arround 7-8 psi. Gonna transfer it in the keg this weekend.
According to lallemand, this yeast love to eat some dextrose to be more sour.

Batch Volume: 6 gal
Original Gravity: 1.056
Final Gravity: 1.009

8 lb (62.8%) — Gambrinus Pale Malt 2-Row — Grain — 2 °L
1 lb (7.8%) — Simpsons Oats Malted — Grain — 1.7 °L
1 lb (7.8%) — Briess Oats, Flaked — Grain — 1.6 °L
1 lb (7.8%) — Wheat Flaked — Grain — 1.7 °L
1 lb (7.8%) — Gambrinus Wheat Malt — Grain — 2.3 °L


12 oz (5.9%) — Corn Sugar (Dextrose) — Sugar — 0 °L
Hops (8.4 oz)
0.6 oz (21 IBU) — Centennial 10% — First Wort
2.8 oz (12 IBU) — Centennial 10% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand
1 oz (7 IBU) — El Dorado 15% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand
2 oz — Citra 12% — Dry Hop — 5 days
2 oz — El Dorado 15% — Dry Hop — 5 days

Hopstand at 176 °F

 

[JohnConnor]

I'm going to assume EQ is getting some awesome select lots (I think I read somewhere early crop is the best?). Early this year, I was getting some really nice simcoe from Yakima Chief. Very fruit forward with some bubble gummy type notes. The last couple orders has seen some earthiness come in. Still nice but not as good. Assuming their on their last bits of the 2019 crop.

For what it's worth, I was given a tip with english strains (not sure if it's specific to them or if there is any science to this) use hops high in myrcene. Simcoe is a big myrcene hop.

 

[Fergal]

Speaking of "orange peel"...... I have done a brew for summer each of the last two springs.... brew it about March or so to have it ready for June/July/August. It is my Edit #2 recipe - so, basically the above as far as grain bill. I do the mash, collect the wort, boil for 5-10 minutes. Chill it to 95-100 degrees, bubble CO2 into the wort (still in kettle) like oxygenating wort... but, with CO2... getting O2 out. pitch Omega Lacto blend, cover with Saran Wrap and lid, kettle sour over night for 18-24 hours. Bring it back up to boil, proceed as normal...... 1 hour boil, Hop schedule as above. Pitch 1056 yeast. Dry hop on day 2. About day 10-12 I zest a couple grapefruit, a couple tangerine, a few oranges, a lemon..... take about 50-70 grams of fruit zest and put it in fermenter. Let it go several more days. Somewhere in the 18-21 day range I prime with corn sugar to 3.0 volumes. Bottle in 750ml bottles. Set away at room temp until summer. It is a great summer beer. Sour Citrus IPA.

Speaking of sour IPA, I recently brewed a Limoncello IPA taking my inspiration from Hill Farmstead & Siren. Fairly standard hazy grain bill and hopping rate but I kettle soured it for 24 hours with 5 IBS tablets. Brought the pre-kettle sour PH down with lemon juice and used the zest in the fermenter & a bit in the whirlpool. The beer is noticeably paler in colour in comparison to others with the same grain bill. I'm thinking the lower boil PH has helped. Fermented with Kveik to up the citrus esters. Should be kegging in a few days.

 

[wepeeler]

Crashed my latest NEIPA to 58F last night. All Citra. 6oz DH of Citra tomorrow morning and kegging within 36 hours.

 

[Rothbard69]

question on aroma. I have been brewing this beer for awhile. Always turns out great. However I always feel the aroma is lacking. Maybe because I ve been drinking alot of King Sue lately at that aroma is off the charts. It smells like you just opened a huge bag of fresh Citra hops. I do closed transfer. Oxygen ingress is minimal. My beers stay perfectly color and flavor for months so its not oxidation. I do a single dry hop per his original suggestion and i do it like day 3. That dry hop sits in the Spike Conical for like 8 days after i drop it in . My theories to improve aroma are the following

1. Split the single dry hop (6 oz of C,M,G) into two 3 oz additions hoping the later DH will give me more aroma

2. Not DH so early and wait till 2 or 3 days before kegging to add DH to fermenter

3. Ferment under pressure to keep the aroma in. Ive read that pressure fermentation affects the taste of NEIPAs esp ester formation.

4. Add a keg hop to this recipe. This will put fresh hops in the keg and should boost aroma. But worried about vegetal flavor

any suggestion from you guys would be appreciated!

 

[echoALEia]

Simcoe might be one of my favorite hops right now. I use it in just about everything. Simcoe is a very different hop now than it used to be. I don’t usually use it on its own but I’ve been using it a lot on hotside and then in small amounts in DH. It’s very fruit forward with some awesome complex notes.

If you’re using a clean American ale yeast I think you’ll get more of the classic pine/resin out of it but I think with most English ale yeasts it’s a whole different beast.

I agree about Simcoe - the ones from last years harvest and YCH were amazing.

 

[couchsending]

question on aroma. I have been brewing this beer for awhile. Always turns out great. However I always feel the aroma is lacking. Maybe because I ve been drinking alot of King Sue lately at that aroma is off the charts. It smells like you just opened a huge bag of fresh Citra hops. I do closed transfer. Oxygen ingress is minimal. My beers stay perfectly color and flavor for months so its not oxidation. I do a single dry hop per his original suggestion and i do it like day 3. That dry hop sits in the Spike Conical for like 8 days after i drop it in . My theories to improve aroma are the following

1. Split the single dry hop (6 oz of C,M,G) into two 3 oz additions hoping the later DH will give me more aroma

2. Not DH so early and wait till 2 or 3 days before kegging to add DH to fermenter

3. Ferment under pressure to keep the aroma in. Ive read that pressure fermentation affects the taste of NEIPAs esp ester formation.

4. Add a keg hop to this recipe. This will put fresh hops in the keg and should boost aroma. But worried about vegetal flavor

any suggestion from you guys would be appreciated!

The reason you’re not getting the aroma is you’re adding dry hops too early into fermentation, plain and simple. You can split the hops if you want but I don’t think it’s necessary. I don’t think TG is adding dry hops during fermentation at all. You can tell it’s Citra with KS and PS. When you get pure expression of the hop and not muddled fruit that means the dry hops were added after fermentation.

Don’t ferment under pressure. Some yeasts can handle it, others can’t. If you think you want to try it I wouldn’t go over 7psi which means you’d need a spunding valve. It’s not necessary and you run the risk of a poor fermentation.

I’d add more than 6oz, especially if you have a conical fermenter and can dump hops. Try closer to 9oz.

If you have a spike conical and you want explosive aroma from your dry hops do this:

Wait until fermentation is complete and beer is negative for VDKs (do a forced diacetyl rest, it’s easy).

if you have the pressure transfer manifold add it when you see active fermentation is winding down but still getting some Co2 release. You don’t want pressure to build up very much in my opinion. Keep it below 5psI.

Cool to 60*

Wait for 24-36 hours for yeast to flocc.

Harvest yeast (save for future batches)

Hook up Co2 to the manifold at 5-10psi and turn on Co2. Open the top 4” TC port and dump hops in while you’re pumping Co2 into the headspace. Put the 4” TC back on loosely but let Co2 escape for 30 seconds then close it up. You can purge headspace a few more times using the manifold.

Leave at 60 for 48 hours. At that time take a sample and double check for hop creep and/or diacetyl and start dumpling settled hops. If negative for diacetyl start cooling to 39. I go 5* in the AM and 5* at night so as not to shock the yeast. You can continue to dump hops or just wait until you get to 39. Leave at 39 for a couple days then keg.

Explain your exact process for purging the keg and and transferring the beer. Just cause you don’t get a color change doesn’t mean you don’t get aroma damaging o2 pickup. In my experience Aroma is the first to go.

 

[Rothbard69]

The reason you’re not getting the aroma is you’re adding dry hops too early into fermentation, plain and simple. You can split the hops if you want but I don’t think it’s necessary. I don’t think TG is adding dry hops during fermentation at all. You can tell it’s Citra with KS and PS. When you get pure expression of the hop and not muddled fruit that means the dry hops were added after fermentation.

Don’t ferment under pressure. Some yeasts can handle it, others can’t. If you think you want to try it I wouldn’t go over 7psi which means you’d need a spunding valve. It’s not necessary and you run the risk of a poor fermentation.

I’d add more than 6oz, especially if you have a conical fermenter and can dump hops. Try closer to 9oz.

If you have a spike conical and you want explosive aroma from your dry hops do this:

Wait until fermentation is complete and beer is negative for VDKs (do a forced diacetyl rest, it’s easy).

if you have the pressure transfer manifold add it when you see active fermtation is down but still getting some Co2 release. You don’t want pressure to build up very much in my opinion. Keep it below 5ps

Cool to 60*

Wait for 24-36 hours for yeast to flocc.

Harvest yeast (save for future batches)

Hook up Co2 to the manifold at 5-10psi and turn on Co2. Open the top 4” TC port and dump hops in while you’re pumping Co2 into the headspace. Put the 4” TC back on loosely but let Co2 escape for 30 seconds then close it up. You can purge headspace a few more times using the manifold.

Leave at 60 for 48 hours. At that time take a sample and double check for hop creep and/or diacetyl and start dumpling settled hops. If negative for diacetyl start cooling to 39. I go 5* in the AM and 5* at night so as not to shock the yeast. You can continue to dump hops or just wait until you get to 39. Leave at 39 for a couple days then keg.

Explain your exact process for purging the keg and and transferring the beer. Just cause you don’t get a color change doesn’t mean you don’t get aroma damaging o2 pickup. In my experience Aroma is the first to go.

Holy crap! What a response. Thanks so much. I'll try it this week on a new batch I'm making.

As far as the transfer I fill a keg as full as i can with starsan. I push that out with CO2 leaving me with a CO2 filled keg. I then hook sight glass to transfer port of Spike conical and connect that to a beer line which is then connected to the keg through the liquid side. I have a spunding valve on the gas side of the keg. I open the valve and purge the beer line of any air before i hook it up to the keg. CO2 hooked up to the manifold pushes beer into keg. The manifold i put on during active fermentation when i dropped the 6 oz dry hop in, so nothing gets opened to air after that (i also purge several times after I drop hop through the manifold)

 

[couchsending]

Holy crap! What a response. Thanks so much. I'll try it this week on a new batch I'm making.

As far as the transfer I fill a keg as full as i can with starsan. I push that out with CO2 leaving me with a CO2 filled keg. I then hook sight glass to transfer port of Spike conical and connect that to a beer line which is then connected to the keg through the liquid side. I have a spunding valve on the gas side of the keg. I open the valve and purge the beer line of any air before i hook it up to the keg. CO2 hooked up to the manifold pushes beer into keg. The manifold i put on during active fermentation when i dropped the 6 oz dry hop in, so nothing gets opened to air after that (i also purge several times after I drop hop through the manifold)

No prob. Here’s a few more tips on the purge and transfer.

I will fill keg so overflowing with Star San, put the lid on. Push out a pint then purge 13 times with 30 psi. Push the rest of the Star San out using 5psi. Fill keg with Co2 and let it sit for 10-15 minutes to make sure all the bubbles and liquid has settled and will be pushed out when attach the transfer line.

Personally I think sight glasses are a bit of a waste on the Homebrew scale but to each their own. Just another way to trap more o2.

Best way I’ve found to purge the transfer line is keep the Co2 hooked up to the keg at like 5psi, attach the liquid line to the liquid out of the keg and push that 5psi through the transfer line while holding it tightly to the TC port on the conical for 60 seconds. Once 60 seconds is done tighten the Tri clamp. I used to just fill the keg with 20psi, attach the transfer line then use that 20psi to purge the transfer line while hooking it up to the FV. I think I get a better purge using lower psi over a longer period of time. Aroma seems to be even better using this purging method. It was great before but seems even more robust and longer lasting now.

I put the keg on a scale so I know when I’m getting close to the keg being full and can pull the transfer line when appropriate.

 

[Rothbard69]

No prob. Here’s a few more tips on the purge and transfer.

I will fill keg so overflowing with Star San, put the lid on. Push out a pint then purge 13 times with 30 psi. Push the rest of the Star San out using 5psi. Fill keg with Co2 and let it sit for 10-15 minutes to make sure all the bubbles and liquid has settled and will be pushed out when attach the transfer line.

Personally I think sight glasses are a bit of a waste on the Homebrew scale but to each their own. Just another way to trap more o2.

Best way I’ve found to purge the transfer line is keep the Co2 hooked up to the keg at like 5psi, attach the liquid line to the liquid out of the keg and push that 5psi through the transfer line while holding it tightly to the TC port on the conical for 60 seconds. Once 60 seconds is done tighten the Tri clamp. I used to just fill the keg with 20psi, attach the transfer line then use that 20psi to purge the transfer line while hooking it up to the FV. I think I get a better purge using lower psi over a longer period of time. Aroma seems to be even better using this purging method. It was great before but seems even more robust and longer lasting now.

I put the keg on a scale so I know when I’m getting close to the keg being full and can pull the transfer line when appropriate.

excellent advice makes alot of sense. I will make this part of my routine for sure.

Since I have your ear I am brewing another NEIPA soon and have 2 questions for you

1. as far as the hops go I was planning 2 dry hop 1st at day three 1 oz each of Amarillo, Citra, and Idaho #7. 2nd dry hop day 7 of the same. So 6 oz split into 2 3 oz DH additions. Reading your first recs i would assume I would increase the whole amount to 90 oz and maybe do 3 oz of each? And just do one dry hop post fermentation 3 oz each?

2. I was going to try Voss kveik yeast this time so given that it ferments fast if i decide to use Voss should I do DH addition post fermentation (day 3) and then keep it on the hops for like 4 or 5 day?

sorry for the blitz of questions but your pearls of wisdom are intoxicating!

 

[wepeeler]

Just kegged the neipa. 24 hours on a 6 oz Citra DH at 58F. Zero harsh flavor. No hop burn. Can't wait to taste it carbed up.

 

[couchsending]

excellent advice makes alot of sense. I will make this part of my routine for sure.

Since I have your ear I am brewing another NEIPA soon and have 2 questions for you

1. as far as the hops go I was planning 2 dry hop 1st at day three 1 oz each of Amarillo, Citra, and Idaho #7. 2nd dry hop day 7 of the same. So 6 oz split into 2 3 oz DH additions. Reading your first recs i would assume I would increase the whole amount to 90 oz and maybe do 3 oz of each? And just do one dry hop post fermentation 3 oz each?

2. I was going to try Voss kveik yeast this time so given that it ferments fast if i decide to use Voss should I do DH addition post fermentation (day 3) and then keep it on the hops for like 4 or 5 day?

sorry for the blitz of questions but your pearls of wisdom are intoxicating!

I’m not a fan of dry hopping during fermentation, to me it’s a waste of hops. So much of the aromatic compounds are blown off among other issues. I haven’t done it in years. It’s not critical for the “style” and most of the best commercial examples aren’t made using that technique. Add them all at once after fermentation is done and you’ve removed yeast or split them up adding 1 day apart but again always after fermentation and generally at 60 or below.

I also don’t like Kviek yeasts but plenty do. If you are fermenting it warm I would highly suggest not dry hopping it during fermentation. There are many reports of really weird flavors/aromas when dry hopping Kviek fermentation’s at those elevated temps. Wait until fermentation is done, drop temps to around 60, remove yeast, add dry hops.

 

[MrPowers]

I don't know if this has been mentioned on here yet or not, but James from Verdant in the UK said they don't add any dry hops during active fermentation either. In this video, starting at approx. the 1:50 mark:

Just one more vote for the post fermentation dry hop!

 

[skleice]

I'm sure this has been covered, but there's a lot to soft through...

What is your preferred oz/gallon dry hop rate?

 

[Dgallo]

I'm sure this has been covered, but there's a lot to soft through...

What is your preferred oz/gallon dry hop rate?

I base mine off the the GU of the beer. I dryhop at a rate of .10-.12 oz per gravity unit. So it’s roughly 8 for a single, 10 for a double, and 12 for a triple

 

[HopsAreGood]

I'm sure this has been covered, but there's a lot to soft through...

What is your preferred oz/gallon dry hop rate?

I personally like 10 oz in the dry hop. I’ve made excellent beers with 6, 8, and 12, and have gone as high as 16...but I’ve pretty much settled in on 10. I still play around but 10 is definitely my sweet spot. I’ll add that most beers I make are around 7.5% abv give or take a few points.

 

[MrPowers]

I’m on the lower end of the spectrum: I’m using about .8-.9oz/gal in the boil, and about 1.2oz/gallon in the dry hop in 1.060+ beers. That is before accounting for losses during the process during the process. I back it off slightly for lower gravities. I haven’t gone higher, mostly because I can’t imagine dealing with the losses at a rate higher than that.

 

[couchsending]

I'm sure this has been covered, but there's a lot to soft through...

What is your preferred oz/gallon dry hop rate?

I think it depends on the beer and the hop variety. Been making a lot of 5% beers lately that have as much as 7.5oz of dry hops in 5 finished gallons. These beers have final gravities of closer to 1.014 however. If that same 5% beer FG was 1.008 or 1.010 and even a different grain bill it couldn’t support that hopping load.

Certain hop varieties also require lesser amounts just due to their potency and certain hops require more due to their potency.

 

[HopsAreGood]

I’m on the lower end of the spectrum: I’m using about .8-.9oz/gal in the boil, and about 1.2oz/gallon in the dry hop in 1.060+ beers. That is before accounting for losses during the process during the process. I back it off slightly for lower gravities. I haven’t gone higher, mostly because I can’t imagine dealing with the losses at a rate higher than that.

I’ve kind of settled in on the following:
2 oz in the last 20 minutes of the boil
4 oz in a 170 WP
10 oz dry hop
I’ve played around a lot with hopping schedules, and will continue to do so, but this schedule consistently produces beers that I’m happy with.

 

[MrPowers]

I think it depends on the beer and the hop variety. Been making a lot of 5% beers lately that have as much as 7.5oz of dry hops in 5 finished gallons. These beers have final gravities of closer to 1.014 however. If that same 5% beer FG was 1.008 or 1.010 and even a different grain bill it couldn’t support that hopping load.

Certain hop varieties also require lesser amounts just due to their potency and certain hops require more due to their potency.

I would agree with this. Grist composition plays a huge role. A big, full, oat-forward NEIPA like the other half thread is focused on is going to need more in the hopping department than an alchemist style that is a single malt with Pearl. Same is true when comparing hops—the best example is comparing galaxy to basically anything else.

 

[MrPowers]

I’ve kind of settled in on the following:
2 oz in the last 20 minutes of the boil
4 oz in a 170 WP
10 oz dry hop
I’ve played around a lot with hopping schedules, and will continue to do so, but this schedule consistently produces beers that I’m happy with.

I usually use Yakima CO2 extract @ 30-40 in the boil, that lends plenty of flavor/bitterness/resin’y hop character that stays full mid palate. All the rest of my hops are WP/DH. Usually 10oz WP to 14oz dry hop (10 gal finished batch). Lower gravity beers with get an even split (8oz) WP/DH.

 

[jturman35]

Hey biches it’s been awhile! Not the best picture but my last NEIPA before taking a break.

BroFlo version #3
Simcoe Amarillo whirlpool
Moteuka /Sabro dry hops

 

[couchsending]

Think I’m gonna do “Citra 6 Ways” on Sunday.

Citra T-90 in the kettle @ 30/10
Citra Lupomax and Cryo in WP
Citra Leaf in Hopback
American Noble Citra during fermentation
Cutra T-90/Cryo/Lupomax DH
Citra Terpenes somewhere along the way (still trying to figure out dosing method)

Should be interesting.

Unfortuantely the Lupomax I got from YVH kinda smells like sh*t which sucks. Lots of onion garlic. Rest of the Citra I have is pretty bangin!

 

[echoALEia]

Think I’m gonna do “Citra 6 Ways” on Sunday.

Citra T-90 in the kettle @ 30/10
Citra Lupomax and Cryo in WP
Citra Leaf in Hopback
American Noble Citra during fermentation
Cutra T-90/Cryo/Lupomax DH
Citra Terpenes somewhere along the way (still trying to figure out dosing method)

Should be interesting.

Unfortuantely the Lupomax I got from YVH kinda smells like sh*t which sucks. Lots of onion garlic. Rest of the Citra I have is pretty bangin!

Like raw onions or “Funyuns”? I’ve had NEIPAs from good smaller breweries that tasted like Funyuns and I personally loved them. They might translate differently into a finished product, especially with good malts. I say just go with it.

 

[couchsending]

Like raw onions or “Funyuns”? I’ve had NEIPAs from good smaller breweries that tasted like Funyuns and I personally loved them. They might translate differently into a finished product, especially with good malts. I say just go with it.

Onions are onions in my book. The real great Citra I’ve been fortunate enough to brew with has zero onion/garlic character.

 

[TBryerton]

Think I’m gonna do “Citra 6 Ways” on Sunday.

Citra T-90 in the kettle @ 30/10
Citra Lupomax and Cryo in WP
Citra Leaf in Hopback
American Noble Citra during fermentation
Cutra T-90/Cryo/Lupomax DH
Citra Terpenes somewhere along the way (still trying to figure out dosing method)

Should be interesting.

Unfortuantely the Lupomax I got from YVH kinda smells like sh*t which sucks. Lots of onion garlic. Rest of the Citra I have is pretty bangin!

Sounds amazing. You mentioned canning... If you’re interested in trading I typically get some good east coast beers.