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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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11 lb 2 row
2 lb white wheat
1 lb flaked oats
Mash 154*f

So everyone in the competition that enters a NE will be citra, mosaic, Galaxy so if I were you, I’d use Idaho 7, Citra, Nelson

I’d say Target 30ish ibus.

Hotside ratio: 2:1 Idaho7/citra
DH ratio: 1:1:3 Idaho7/Citra/Nelson

Use 12-14 total ounces and limit o2 contact post fermentation.

Been wanting to try something different and this looks really interesting. Idaho 7 / Citra are a great combo and Nelson would be the cherry on top!

I might brew something similar this weekend - just need to make sure I have enough Nelson in the freezer :)
 
Been wanting to try something different and this looks really interesting. Idaho 7 / Citra are a great combo and Nelson would be the cherry on top!

I might brew something similar this weekend - just need to make sure I have enough Nelson in the freezer :)
It’s a great hop. I just had two beers from Grimm recently that were heavy Idaho 7 and they were terrific. Also
@marchuk96 just brewed and an Idaho 7 and Idaho gem NEIPA and the amount of true out of the bag hop aroma and flavor profile that can’t from the I7 was amazing. It was pure earth/dank with some citrus and tea notes. With citra and finishing it with Nelson in the dryhop will just give it the fruit forward notes that will make an amazing beer.
 
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Similar to what I just brewed today.

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First NEIPA in a while and first time using dryhop.

Will try the 68/70/76 schedule.

I have a fairly large pitch and plan on a minute of pure o2.

I do have some nelson in the freezer so could be convinced to change the DH. Maybe sub out galaxy for it?
 

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Thanks, didn't think I would need to be so specific....Mouthfeel?

:)
Sorry @tld6008 , I couldn't resist the softball you served. I have been waiting for you to respond.:mug:

Mouthfeel is on point. Plenty of body to make it enjoyable but no so thick that it is not crushable. (I dont like NEIPAS so thick that I have to chew first in order to swallow.)

Actually I did not even think of this until I started typing my response - now I am intrigued. I am currently drinking it side by side with my previous brew (two weeks older) that was essentially the same malt blend except I used TF Malted Oats . The current beer (sub Crisp Malted Oats) that I shared above has remarkably more body to it. Not sure if it is the age difference of the beers, different hops or the malted oats. I see an exbeeriment in my future...
 
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That would be interesting. Hopefully this version isnt as low floccing as London Fog and doesnt suffer from the same vitability issues as Conan.


I have only experienced one issues with Conan strain in 30+ brews. It was a 6th gen - came out way really odd. Now I stop at Gen5. Note: I have only ever used the Imperial Organic strain - A04 Barbarian.
 
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I use it in my IPA only. I let the beer ferment to near FG (like within a point or two or three), rack it to a purged keg via closed loop, inject priming sugar into the PRV hole and then follow it with the oil through the PRV as well. I then seal it all up and let it sit for a few days to carbonate, then it's off to cold storage.
That is what I tried before but it just floats to the top. Do you shake the keg?
 
I think imperial a20 is the same as wlp644 so you could try blend that with any conan strain to get a similar result. No idea about blending proportions though.
Do a split batch with both yeasts and mix them.

@Eltes A24 is a 50/50 blend of Conan & WLP644. I saw an email that HBT user (or on Reddit) received from Imperial Organics. IO shared that the blend drifts starting at Gen3

Yeast Bay funktown is the same strains, but I have no clue what the mix ratios are.
 
My best one as far as aroma has been 2oz each of Citra, Mosaic and Idaho 7 in the dry hop. I got a packet of Imperial's Dry Hop to use for my next batch, can't wait to see how it'll turn out.
 
That is what I tried before but it just floats to the top. Do you shake the keg?

Don’t believe I did anything other than inject the priming solution and oil, but I wouldn’t rule out that I tipped it over once or twice after i hit it with some pressure to set the lid.

It sat for a few days after that at room temp to carbonate, then a few days cold before going on tap. Seemed well dispersed to me.
 
I tested my fermonster with water and it held 10 psi no problem.
Has anybody who is using the fermonsters like this had cracks in the lids? I've probably gone through 3 or 4 lids due to hairline cracks on the seam around the edge.
 
Has anybody who is using the fermonsters like this had cracks in the lids? I've probably gone through 3 or 4 lids due to hairline cracks on the seam around the edge.
I have not run into the issue but I’ve onky run this set up 4 times and only ever bring it to 5 psi at max in the transfer
 
I have not run into the issue but I’ve onky run this set up 4 times and only ever bring it to 5 psi at max in the transfer

My lid cracked at 15psi around the seal line after 3 days. I haven't glued it or tried to use it again. I won't be running it that high again...maybe 5psi max for fermentation. Pressurized fermentation didn't do **** except oppress the yeast esters.
 
YrghYgygg7.6,,7,66;/
My lid cracked at 15psi around the seal line after 3 days. I haven't glued it or tried to use it again. I won't be running it that high again...maybe 5psi max for fermentation. Pressurized fermentation didn't do poopy except oppress the yeast esters.
Yeah I don’t ferment under pressure at all. And only dryhop at 2psi. Then when I transfer it’s between 2-5 psi. 5 is mush more than I need but once I start i don’t like messing with it.
 
YrghYgygg7.6,,7,66;/

Yeah I don’t ferment under pressure at all. And only dryhop at 2psi. Then when I transfer it’s between 2-5 psi. 5 is mush more than I need but once I start i don’t like messing with it.

1st question: Is the pressure the same when you cold crash ie. ~2-5PSI into the liquid post with the gas post going to either a blow off jar or serving keg to purge it of oxygen?

2nd question: Regarding your dry hopping process @Dgallo you are adding the CO2 to the liquid post at 2psi before you unscrew the lid for dry hopping? Just want to be sure I understand your process.

Thanks
 
It seems like I'm in the minority here, but having tried both the CBDS and Janish dip tube screen in both fermenting keg and serving keg (only tried once for each in the SK, due to the issues I'll mention below) for filtering out dry hops in this style, my preference is for the Janish recommended dip tube screen.

The process I've been using most recently is the dip tube screen in the fermenter with all dry hops going in the fermenter keg (typically ~5oz for 4.25 gallons of beer). I bought straight dip tubes (a few bucks each from Austin Homebrew) to use in my fermenting kegs to avoid having to trim my originals. For NEIPAs, I use one that leaves about 1/3rd gallon of liquid behind, which seems to get almost all the liquid above the hops without having had any clog issues. I typically cold crash about 48 hours before transferring to SK. I did try adding the final dry hop in the SK with the Janish dip tube once, but it seemed like the first ~8oz beer I poured in a day had some astringency/bitterness that I assume was from the close proximity to the hops at the bottom of the keg. Didn't feel like it boosted aroma or flavor by having them in the serving keg, so all my dry hops go into the primary now. I like that they are stainless, so they are shiny clean after a rinse and a PBW soak (I just soak them in the PBW leftover from cleaning the fermenting keg).

For the CBDS, process-wise, I rate them about the same as the Janish dip tube. They've worked just as well for screening out hops and transferring out of the primary or serving from without clogs. The issues I've had were mainly off-flavors that I strongly suspect is from flavors carrying over from the silicone tubing to the beer. Once you've fermented a NEIPA with one of these, you'll notice the silicone tubing is permanently stained and will smell like your dry hops, even after a good PBW soak. Over time, that dry hop smell turns into something that smells much less pleasant, and this I what I feel like I was tasting in my beers, especially when using them in the serving keg (it would start off barely noticeable but ruin the batch over the course of a few weeks). I know many here are using them without experiencing this issue though, so maybe I need to be cleaning them differently or maybe if you transfer out of the primary within 10-12 days and don't use them in the serving keg it's not as noticeable. The only times I've not had this issue on NEIPAs with the CBDS though was new silicon tubing, and it's not worth the cost or hassle to me to cut a new 3 feet of tubing for every batch given how well the Janish dip tube screen works.

Just figured I'd share my experience, since I think both options work great for filtering out he dry hops after a cold crash. And if anyone here has ideas on what I've been doing wrong with the CBDS to get this weird grainy/cheesy off-flavor with IPAs when I've used them, I'm all ears.

I'm curious about this as I use floating dip tubes with silicon tubing and have also noticed it doesn't get clear after a PBW soak (not that any silicon really does). I've also had some issues with my NEIPAs not being up to my standard lately but nothing has changed process-wise so I wonder... However, I use the floating dip tubes for all my beers and have served plenty of clean lagers with them and didn't notice any weird hop flavors coming through so find it hard to believe that could be the cause. Anybody else think this is an issue?
 
I also did a water test before racking beer to see how the purging would go and decided that it would be easier to fill it completely with starsan and then push beer through to get the starsan out. I completely filled my filter housing setup with starsan before moving beer and then purged out the starsan with beer, but you should be able to purge the air out without first filling it with starsan.

Using liquid to purge out air, the biggest air pocket forms in the center of the cap. To get that out, you need to flip the filter housing upside down for a second while beer is flowing. Then, orient the housing so the outlet is up, but move it slowly into that position. This should push all the air out of the outlet barb. The weird thing is that some bubbles will probably stick to the screen, so I kind of prefer to put the whole assemble together under starsan to eliminate all air bubbles.

I have one of these filters and have been scared to use it on the cold side due to oxidation since my latest NEIPA method has been waiting until post fermentation to rack (due to DHing) and therefore there's no o2 scavenging available.

So how exactly are you hooking this up? I like the idea of putting it all together under starsan but how are you getting the hoses on there connected to your fermenter filled with star san too? If you just fill the filter and then connect an air-filled hose that negates the whole process.
 
I'm curious about this as I use floating dip tubes with silicon tubing and have also noticed it doesn't get clear after a PBW soak (not that any silicon really does). I've also had some issues with my NEIPAs not being up to my standard lately but nothing has changed process-wise so I wonder... However, I use the floating dip tubes for all my beers and have served plenty of clean lagers with them and didn't notice any weird hop flavors coming through so find it hard to believe that could be the cause. Anybody else think this is an issue?
I was wondering about this too, it would be simple to test (have to do this myself).
Just take some coloured tubing and soak it in some water for a while and taste the water afterwards.
My kegs are occupied atm but if you do test this please share the results.
 
1st question: Is the pressure the same when you cold crash ie. ~2-5PSI into the liquid post with the gas post going to either a blow off jar or serving keg to purge it of oxygen?
When I cold crash my FV is connected to a gas line set at around 2 psi.

2nd question: Regarding your dry hopping process @Dgallo you are adding the CO2 to the liquid post at 2psi before you unscrew the lid for dry hopping? Just want to be sure I understand your process.
I will hook the co2 line to the liquid post of my fermonster but not have the co2 open yet. Then I’ll unscrew the cap and lift the cap so the bottom of the liquid post is just below the surface and will then run the co2 at as low as I can for 10 second and as I’m dropping in the dryhops. I found that if you have the gas on running through the dip tube before it’s close to the surface the co2 will rouse all the yeast and trub from the bottom.
53E51627-C654-46F5-86ED-7469A45D6403.jpeg
 
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I'm curious about this as I use floating dip tubes with silicon tubing and have also noticed it doesn't get clear after a PBW soak (not that any silicon really does). I've also had some issues with my NEIPAs not being up to my standard lately but nothing has changed process-wise so I wonder... However, I use the floating dip tubes for all my beers and have served plenty of clean lagers with them and didn't notice any weird hop flavors coming through so find it hard to believe that could be the cause. Anybody else think this is an issue?

I have been using a version of CBDS to ferment in my kegs and have extremely discolored tubing(I don't even try to soak it in PBW, just hot water rinse to clean), but haven't really noticed any off flavors. I recently did a Czech pils with the same tubing and it came out really clean and nice, I doubt I would've missed any weird flavors in that beer.
 
I can only speak from my personal experience - I think 3-4 days at room temp does it. I’ll usually do 2 days for pellets. I think the bigger thing is getting them incorporated, the suckers won’t sink. If I’m using whole cones/leaf I definitely dry hop in the keg so I can purge and then roll it around/shake it a few times a day
 
I'm curious about this as I use floating dip tubes with silicon tubing and have also noticed it doesn't get clear after a PBW soak (not that any silicon really does). I've also had some issues with my NEIPAs not being up to my standard lately but nothing has changed process-wise so I wonder... However, I use the floating dip tubes for all my beers and have served plenty of clean lagers with them and didn't notice any weird hop flavors coming through so find it hard to believe that could be the cause. Anybody else think this is an issue?

Option 1: Change the hoses every few months. It is cheap if bought from amazon.

Option 2: More general recommendation. Yes it happened to me too I have floating diptubes in all 10 kegs. I never determined the cause. I did the following and it went away. In my opinion - PBW needs more "oomph" to clean non-stainless surfaces (i.e. hoses and plastic fermentors). PBW is mostly just oxiclean with a boost agent (Sodium Metasilicate). I started using a true caustic agent every couple of months or so to deep clean. I have a 15gal BK - fill to 12gal add 4tbsp PBW & 4tbsp Lye, I throw in all of my silicone hoses and attachments heat temp to 175 for 20mins. The silicone hoses get squeaky clean, the amount of biofilm (?) that ends up floating in the water is shocking - even though I use PBW after every brew. Coincidentally this is why I also stopped using a CFC chiller and switched to Jaded Hydra.... I then pour the hot water into my fermentors to sit for 20-30min. After rinsing good, spray all SS with super strength StarSan, air dry over night

Caution: Use chemical resistant gloves, rubber boots, goggles and other protective gear. DO NOT allow contact with skin
 
Agreed. Lots of pockets in the hops to trap o2, poorer extraction rates, more green material, and the additional loss
 
The interesting thing about whole leaf hops is that a lot of the compounds associated with bio transformation are located in the leaf matter itself, not in the lupulin. I’ve started using leaf hops in a hop back and have toyed around with the idea of adding some leaf hops to the fermenter either before yeast pitch or during fermentation. Ideally some form of low alpha hop.

Looking forward to the “American noble” hop releases from YCH which hopefully will finally be available to homebrewers this fall. The leaf matter from Citra/Mosaic/Amarillo/etc without all the alpha acids could be really interesting to play with. Potentially some positive biotransformation flavors/aromas without the negative aspects of adding a ton of hops during fermentation.
 
I was going to add them to a SS dry hop canister and purge as best as possible. Only reason I was going to use them was to get idaho7 in the DH and that's the only form I have them in. Maybe I just skip it or suck it up and buy some pellets even though I have a 12oz of whole leaf. It's good for WP at least.
 
Option 1: Change the hoses every few months. It is cheap if bought from amazon.

Option 2: More general recommendation. Yes it happened to me too I have floating diptubes in all 10 kegs. I never determined the cause. I did the following and it went away. In my opinion - PBW needs more "oomph" to clean non-stainless surfaces (i.e. hoses and plastic fermentors). PBW is mostly just oxiclean with a boost agent (Sodium Metasilicate). I started using a true caustic agent every couple of months or so to deep clean. I have a 15gal BK - fill to 12gal add 4tbsp PBW & 4tbsp Lye, I throw in all of my silicone hoses and attachments heat temp to 175 for 20mins. The silicone hoses get squeaky clean, the amount of biofilm (?) that ends up floating in the water is shocking - even though I use PBW after every brew. Coincidentally this is why I also stopped using a CFC chiller and switched to Jaded Hydra.... I then pour the hot water into my fermentors to sit for 20-30min. After rinsing good, spray all SS with super strength StarSan, air dry over night

Caution: Use chemical resistant gloves, rubber boots, goggles and other protective gear. DO NOT allow contact with skin
So something like this would work? And by super strength Star San are you just not dilluting it as much? What is the purpose of super-strengthing it?

https://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Hydro...la-492676623295&ref=&adgrpid=62022137216&th=1
 
I was wondering about this too, it would be simple to test (have to do this myself).
Just take some coloured tubing and soak it in some water for a while and taste the water afterwards.
My kegs are occupied atm but if you do test this please share the results.

Thanks for the input - if nothing else, it helps me feel a little less OCD knowing others have thought about this too :) The water test seems like a good suggestion - I may give it a try this week with the tubing that I suspected might have caused the issue. There were certainly other variables in the mix on the keg with the CBDS that went bad, so it would help me to know one way or another whether the off flavor could have come from the hop-stained CBDS silicone tubing.

I've also wondered whether using the CBDS in the fermenter where the bottom of the tubing sits in a layer of krausen and dry hops might contribute to more potential for flavor carry-over or off flavors when using it in the serving keg on a subsequent beer. I'm not sure if I be using the CBDS in the fermenter again (given how well the stainless mesh "Janish" dip tube screen has been working for me), but I would like to be able to draw from the top in the serving keg in the future without having to worry about off flavors.

Option 1: Change the hoses every few months. It is cheap if bought from amazon.

Option 2: More general recommendation. Yes it happened to me too I have floating diptubes in all 10 kegs. I never determined the cause. I did the following and it went away. In my opinion - PBW needs more "oomph" to clean non-stainless surfaces (i.e. hoses and plastic fermentors). PBW is mostly just oxiclean with a boost agent (Sodium Metasilicate). I started using a true caustic agent every couple of months or so to deep clean. I have a 15gal BK - fill to 12gal add 4tbsp PBW & 4tbsp Lye, I throw in all of my silicone hoses and attachments heat temp to 175 for 20mins. The silicone hoses get squeaky clean, the amount of biofilm (?) that ends up floating in the water is shocking - even though I use PBW after every brew. Coincidentally this is why I also stopped using a CFC chiller and switched to Jaded Hydra.... I then pour the hot water into my fermentors to sit for 20-30min. After rinsing good, spray all SS with super strength StarSan, air dry over night

Caution: Use chemical resistant gloves, rubber boots, goggles and other protective gear. DO NOT allow contact with skin

When you say that it happened to you too, do you mean you got off-flavors you suspect were from re-using the silicone tubing? Or just that you got the visual ugly stains? If it was off flavors, how would you describe the off flavor?

Thanks for the cleaning suggestion - depending how cheap I can find the silicon tubing, I'm not sure that it's worth the hassle to go through all that just for the CBDS, but I'm sure that process would help for some other plastic and silicon parts that are susceptible to staining and retaining aromas.
 
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