New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[jakturner]

I've been thinking of moving towards fermenting in cornys. I tried it with an APA and it was a disaster bc my disconnects clogged. I'm thinking of trying Scott Janish's dip tube filter.

Has anyone had success keg fermenting beers with loads of dry hops? If so, any tips/tricks to share?

I use the CBDS with the screen, works like a charm. I also use one of these
https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...t-60-cm-silicone-dip-tube-fermentasaurus.html
they are a third of the price and work equally well if you get a good cold crash in, you do have to replace the silicone tubing with a bigger diameter, I think 1/4 in ID. Also you will need to buy a gas in tube or cut your dip tube short. I typically use about 6oz of dryhop in a 4 gallon batch with no problems.

 

[kevink]

I picked up the same filter, but using a water test, couldn’t prevent lots of bubbles from forming at the exit of the filter. Any suggestions from those using it?

I also did a water test before racking beer to see how the purging would go and decided that it would be easier to fill it completely with starsan and then push beer through to get the starsan out. I completely filled my filter housing setup with starsan before moving beer and then purged out the starsan with beer, but you should be able to purge the air out without first filling it with starsan.

Using liquid to purge out air, the biggest air pocket forms in the center of the cap. To get that out, you need to flip the filter housing upside down for a second while beer is flowing. Then, orient the housing so the outlet is up, but move it slowly into that position. This should push all the air out of the outlet barb. The weird thing is that some bubbles will probably stick to the screen, so I kind of prefer to put the whole assemble together under starsan to eliminate all air bubbles.

 

[isomerization]

I also did a water test before racking beer to see how the purging would go and decided that it would be easier to fill it completely with starsan and then push beer through to get the starsan out. I completely filled my filter housing setup with starsan before moving beer and then purged out the starsan with beer, but you should be able to purge the air out without first filling it with starsan.

Using liquid to purge out air, the biggest air pocket forms in the center of the cap. To get that out, you need to flip the filter housing upside down for a second while beer is flowing. Then, orient the housing so the outlet is up, but move it slowly into that position. This should push all the air out of the outlet barb. The weird thing is that some bubbles will probably stick to the screen, so I kind of prefer to put the whole assemble together under starsan to eliminate all air bubbles.

Cool thanks, will play around with that. Was worried I was creating more problems than solved with filtering!

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Thank you both. For a while, the smaller batch size presented a mental hurdle for me. But then I realized that I find myself without a tap for my next beer more often than I find myself with an empty tap, so I'm over that.

Sounds like a floating dip tube is preferable to the dip tube filter/screen. Might as well get one for fermenting and serving kegs, I suppose.

I love small batches. I can still do all-grain in the comforts of my kitchen, and I get to brew more often. Fermenting in kegs is also pretty sweet. Cleanup is a breeze with the kegs and you can easily use CO2 minimize O2 exposure. Can easily cold crash without suck back.

I typically use the fermentasaurus CBDS and it works ok. A lot of times I have to tip the keg I'm transferring out of to get all the beer out. Not sure why but it works fine provided I cold crash. I did make a filter similar to Janish's and a few times I've dry hopped in a 2nd keg(to harvest yeast) using that and it also worked fine. Another method would be to cut the keg's dip tube shorter. With a cold crash I've heard that working out as well. Good luck

 

[leesmith]

A simple filter bag is all you need to ferment and dry hop in kegs....easy to clean...cheap and effective. Get keg lids with tabs welded on the inside. Use butchers twine to secure the bag to the lid. Use as big a bag that you can get away with...and suspend it so that it doesn’t reach the end of the dip tube and get sucked into it.

And yes...I’ve done it both ways...Janish screen...free ball...and I’ve gone back to using a bag. Never have any trouble with clogs or having to shake keg because something’s stuck.

I do shake the keg during dry hopping to ensure good extraction.

No difference. People in this thread and online will have opinions on that though.

Kegs are great to ferment in...can be pressurized...cleaned easy...transfers are easy...etc.

Great thread to read through:

Pressurized Closed Loop Corny Keg Fermenting
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ized-Closed-Loop-Corny-Keg-Fermenting.600563/

While I don’t use all the techniques prescribed....because I dry hop after fermentation and transfer...there is a lot of good info and details.

 

[murphyslaw]

A simple filter bag is all you need to ferment and dry hop in kegs....easy to clean...cheap and effective. Get keg lids with tabs welded on the inside. Use butchers twine to secure the bag to the lid. Use as big a bag that you can get away with...and suspend it so that it doesn’t reach the end of the dip tube and get sucked into it.

And yes...I’ve done it both ways...Janish screen...free ball...and I’ve gone back to using a bag. Never have any trouble with clogs or having to shake keg because something’s stuck.

I do shake the keg during dry hopping to ensure good extraction.

No difference. People in this thread and online will have opinions on that though.

Kegs are great to ferment in...can be pressurized...cleaned easy...transfers are easy...etc.

Great thread to read through:

Pressurized Closed Loop Corny Keg Fermenting
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ized-Closed-Loop-Corny-Keg-Fermenting.600563/

While I don’t use all the techniques prescribed....because I dry hop after fermentation and transfer...there is a lot of good info and details.

Thanks. That's the thread that got me started down this path. I'm trying to avoid using bags bc I've read it reduces utilization and flavor. I'll try the floating dip tube first, I think.

 

[murphyslaw]

A simple filter bag is all you need to ferment and dry hop in kegs....easy to clean...cheap and effective. Get keg lids with tabs welded on the inside. Use butchers twine to secure the bag to the lid. Use as big a bag that you can get away with...and suspend it so that it doesn’t reach the end of the dip tube and get sucked into it.

And yes...I’ve done it both ways...Janish screen...free ball...and I’ve gone back to using a bag. Never have any trouble with clogs or having to shake keg because something’s stuck.

I do shake the keg during dry hopping to ensure good extraction.

No difference. People in this thread and online will have opinions on that though.

Kegs are great to ferment in...can be pressurized...cleaned easy...transfers are easy...etc.

Great thread to read through:

Pressurized Closed Loop Corny Keg Fermenting
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ized-Closed-Loop-Corny-Keg-Fermenting.600563/

While I don’t use all the techniques prescribed....because I dry hop after fermentation and transfer...there is a lot of good info and details.

Thanks. That's the thread that got me started down this path. I'm trying to avoid using bags bc I've read it reduces utilization and flavor. I'll try the floating dip tube first, I think.

It looks like William's brewing sells one for $20 that comes with the gas in tube.

 

[NickC]

I use the CBDS with the screen, works like a charm. I also use one of these
https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...t-60-cm-silicone-dip-tube-fermentasaurus.html
they are a third of the price and work equally well if you get a good cold crash in, you do have to replace the silicone tubing with a bigger diameter, I think 1/4 in ID. Also you will need to buy a gas in tube or cut your dip tube short. I typically use about 6oz of dryhop in a 4 gallon batch with no problems.

At the time I ordered from that link, mine came with a gas in tube.

 

[NickC]

I love small batches. I can still do all-grain in the comforts of my kitchen, and I get to brew more often. Fermenting in kegs is also pretty sweet. Cleanup is a breeze with the kegs and you can easily use CO2 minimize O2 exposure. Can easily cold crash without suck back.

I typically use the fermentasaurus CBDS and it works ok. A lot of times I have to tip the keg I'm transferring out of to get all the beer out. Not sure why but it works fine provided I cold crash. I did make a filter similar to Janish's and a few times I've dry hopped in a 2nd keg(to harvest yeast) using that and it also worked fine. Another method would be to cut the keg's dip tube shorter. With a cold crash I've heard that working out as well. Good luck

A lot of people recommend the shorter dip tube, but mine always clogged even after cold crash. Tried a couple of times before switching to the top draw system and that fixed it.

 

[Dgallo]

Has anyone that ferments in a keg looked into large mouth carboys like fermonsters? They are like $30-40 for A 7 gallon. Then you can easily turn a solid cap into a closed system by installing ball lock post and a floating dip tube for another $30-40. I did this and I can cold crash and dryhop under pressure, closed transfer transfer to my serving keg and never have to worry about compromising volume and don’t have issues with clogging.

It’s the same thing as fermenting in a corny and roughly the same cost.

 

[leesmith]

Thanks. That's the thread that got me started down this path. I'm trying to avoid using bags bc I've read it reduces utilization and flavor. I'll try the floating dip tube first, I think.

I use the same amount of hops common to this style.

The beers I produce have too much hop flavor at times and I have to condition longer. The whole free ball vs bag thing is not really a thing. Both work.

When it comes down to it...it’s really just a matter if you want to play with floats or string and bags or filters. And which method is easier for you to set up and clean.

Edit: I used to apprentice with a wood worker. At the start of the work day he would ask me if I wanted to make shavings, dust, or curls for the day. Each process achieved the same result but took different know how. I liked curls by the way.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Has anyone that ferments in a keg looked into large mouth carboys like fermonsters? They are like $30-40 for A 7 gallon. Then you can easily turn a solid cap into a closed system by installing ball lock post and a floating dip tube for another $30-40. I did this and I can cold crash and dryhop under pressure, closed transfer transfer to my serving keg and never have to worry about compromising volume and don’t have issues with clogging.

It’s the same thing as fermenting in a corny and roughly the same cost.

Cool, thx for the heads up. I love my small batches as I try to improve my recipes/processes but eventually I'll probably scale up to be more efficient. The biggest obstacles to that are not being able to brew in my kitchen, having to get a wort chiller to cool much larger amount of liquid, and not having a keg big enough to ferment bigger batches in. If that thing you mentioned works it'll help with one of those.

 

[leesmith]

Has anyone that ferments in a keg looked into large mouth carboys like fermonsters? They are like $30-40 for A 7 gallon. Then you can easily turn a solid cap into a closed system by installing ball lock post and a floating dip tube for another $30-40. I did this and I can cold crash and dryhop under pressure, closed transfer transfer to my serving keg and never have to worry about compromising volume and don’t have issues with clogging.

It’s the same thing as fermenting in a corny and roughly the same cost.

I like that set up.

My buddy sold me my fermenting kegs for cheep and soldered the tab on each lid for free. So my set up was cheeper due to good fortune.

Also...one thing that could be argued for fermenting in kegs is some people do mixed fermentation’s (I do). With stainless I don’t need to worry about infections as much...and can change out the orings.

But I do like watching a fermentation...nothing like glass or plastic in that regards.

 

[kevink]

Has anyone that ferments in a keg looked into large mouth carboys like fermonsters? They are like $30-40 for A 7 gallon. Then you can easily turn a solid cap into a closed system by installing ball lock post and a floating dip tube for another $30-40. I did this and I can cold crash and dryhop under pressure, closed transfer transfer to my serving keg and never have to worry about compromising volume and don’t have issues with clogging.

It’s the same thing as fermenting in a corny and roughly the same cost.

These things are actually on sale right now for $25.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermonster-carboy-7-gal.html

 

[isomerization]

Has anyone that ferments in a keg looked into large mouth carboys like fermonsters? They are like $30-40 for A 7 gallon. Then you can easily turn a solid cap into a closed system by installing ball lock post and a floating dip tube for another $30-40. I did this and I can cold crash and dryhop under pressure, closed transfer transfer to my serving keg and never have to worry about compromising volume and don’t have issues with clogging.

It’s the same thing as fermenting in a corny and roughly the same cost.

Have you posted a part list for converting the lid to your system?

 

[mergs]

I dont ferment in keg but I use a version of the clear beer system in all my kegs for serving and even in the fermenter for transfers. If your cheap like me you can just use silicon tubing and an improvised float, something like a small pill bottle works great.

Interesting! Can you post a pic(s) of your improvised float?

 

[Dgallo]

I’ll put one up later tonight when I get home. I wrote it down so I could pick up more fermonsters

 

[murphyslaw]

Has anyone that ferments in a keg looked into large mouth carboys like fermonsters? They are like $30-40 for A 7 gallon. Then you can easily turn a solid cap into a closed system by installing ball lock post and a floating dip tube for another $30-40. I did this and I can cold crash and dryhop under pressure, closed transfer transfer to my serving keg and never have to worry about compromising volume and don’t have issues with clogging.

It’s the same thing as fermenting in a corny and roughly the same cost.

Yeah, that's what I do now. I have 2 fermonsters and I can do a closed transfer via the port with the gas from keg feeding back into the airlock to displace the wort. It works fine.

I didnt need a keg post to do that, but I would need one to cold crash with co2 hooked up to avoid suck back. I tried the cold crash guardian bag thing but I dont think it worked very well.

 

[Dgallo]

Yeah, that's what I do now. I have 2 fermonsters and I can do a closed transfer via the port with the gas from keg feeding back into the airlock to displace the wort. It works fine.

I didnt need a keg post to do that, but I would need one to cold crash with co2 hooked up to avoid suck back. I tried the cold crash guardian bag thing but I dont think it worked very well.

I do it like this

 

[NickC]

Has anyone that ferments in a keg looked into large mouth carboys like fermonsters? They are like $30-40 for A 7 gallon. Then you can easily turn a solid cap into a closed system by installing ball lock post and a floating dip tube for another $30-40. I did this and I can cold crash and dryhop under pressure, closed transfer transfer to my serving keg and never have to worry about compromising volume and don’t have issues with clogging.

It’s the same thing as fermenting in a corny and roughly the same cost.

Buddy of mine just moved to this exact setup. Def nice to fill that serving keg full.

 

[Loud Brewing]

Have you posted a part list for converting the lid to your system?

Start with solid Fermonster lid and get some threaded ball lock posts (gas and liquid) https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Liquid-Ball-Lock-With-Threaded-Post-P4507.aspx
Then use a spade bit (1/2" I believe) and pop 2 holes in lid and use these gaskets or something similar to make posts air tight. https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Faucet-Lever-Black-Gasket-P1504.aspx You will also need a short piece of aluminum keg diptube to attach silicone tubing to. I then attach a floating dip tube setup to that https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Top-Draw-Beer-Pick-Up-Tube-P4643.aspx This which works much better than a fixed dip tube or racking cane for transfers, and you can even ferment/cold crash under pressure like dgallo said

 

[Loud Brewing]

Interesting! Can you post a pic(s) of your improvised float?

I will have to take a pic but, I just cut the original dip tube short about 3" on any keg and reinsert it. I then cut a short piece off of what I just cut, about 1" and drill a small hole in it, then insert it into bottom of silicone tubing. I then use fishing line through the hole and wrap around lid of small pill bottle or something similar.Then slide other end of silicone tubing on the now short original dip tube. Poormans CBDS lol

 

[Loud Brewing]

delete

 

[Shenanigans]

Looks like a cool setup. How much pressure can a fermonster handle? Probably only 1 or 2 PSI needed?

 

[Dgallo]

Have you posted a part list for converting the lid to your system?

So if you saw @Loud Brewing post about the parts list

Start with solid Fermonster lid and get some threaded ball lock posts (gas and liquid) https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Liquid-Ball-Lock-With-Threaded-Post-P4507.aspx
Then use a spade bit (1/2" I believe) and pop 2 holes in lid and use these gaskets or something similar to make posts air tight. https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Faucet-Lever-Black-Gasket-P1504.aspx You will also need a short piece of aluminum keg diptube to attach silicone tubing to. I then attach a floating dip tube setup to that https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Top-Draw-Beer-Pick-Up-Tube-P4643.aspx This which works much better than a fixed dip tube or racking cane for transfers, and you can even ferment/cold crash under pressure like dgallo said

I practically have the same set up but instead of small aluminum dip tube, I bought (2) stainless 1/2 inch female to female hose couplers and (2) 1/2 inch male 3/8 threaded barbs. One set of each for each post. Then on the liquid post I use a small piece of 3/8 tubing and a old racking can I cut to size and clamp to the threaded barb. My dip tube is roughly 3-4 inches off the bottom of the FV then account for the yeast and settled hops. Both ways set ups will work fine.

What’s really nice to is during fermentation you can connect your gas post to the serving kegs and use the the free blow off to purge It of o2

If you run into any problems, go to a good local hardware shop where people actually know their **** not Lowe’s or their likeness and they will 100% help you

 

[Dgallo]

Looks like a cool setup. How much pressure can a fermonster handle? Probably only 1 or 2 PSI needed?

I tested my fermonster with water and it held 10 psi no problem.

 

[cheesebach]

I've been thinking of moving towards fermenting in cornys. I tried it with an APA and it was a disaster bc my disconnects clogged. I'm thinking of trying Scott Janish's dip tube filter.

Has anyone had success keg fermenting beers with loads of dry hops? If so, any tips/tricks to share?

It seems like I'm in the minority here, but having tried both the CBDS and Janish dip tube screen in both fermenting keg and serving keg (only tried once for each in the SK, due to the issues I'll mention below) for filtering out dry hops in this style, my preference is for the Janish recommended dip tube screen.

The process I've been using most recently is the dip tube screen in the fermenter with all dry hops going in the fermenter keg (typically ~5oz for 4.25 gallons of beer). I bought straight dip tubes (a few bucks each from Austin Homebrew) to use in my fermenting kegs to avoid having to trim my originals. For NEIPAs, I use one that leaves about 1/3rd gallon of liquid behind, which seems to get almost all the liquid above the hops without having had any clog issues. I typically cold crash about 48 hours before transferring to SK. I did try adding the final dry hop in the SK with the Janish dip tube once, but it seemed like the first ~8oz beer I poured in a day had some astringency/bitterness that I assume was from the close proximity to the hops at the bottom of the keg. Didn't feel like it boosted aroma or flavor by having them in the serving keg, so all my dry hops go into the primary now. I like that they are stainless, so they are shiny clean after a rinse and a PBW soak (I just soak them in the PBW leftover from cleaning the fermenting keg).

For the CBDS, process-wise, I rate them about the same as the Janish dip tube. They've worked just as well for screening out hops and transferring out of the primary or serving from without clogs. The issues I've had were mainly off-flavors that I strongly suspect is from flavors carrying over from the silicone tubing to the beer. Once you've fermented a NEIPA with one of these, you'll notice the silicone tubing is permanently stained and will smell like your dry hops, even after a good PBW soak. Over time, that dry hop smell turns into something that smells much less pleasant, and this I what I feel like I was tasting in my beers, especially when using them in the serving keg (it would start off barely noticeable but ruin the batch over the course of a few weeks). I know many here are using them without experiencing this issue though, so maybe I need to be cleaning them differently or maybe if you transfer out of the primary within 10-12 days and don't use them in the serving keg it's not as noticeable. The only times I've not had this issue on NEIPAs with the CBDS though was new silicon tubing, and it's not worth the cost or hassle to me to cut a new 3 feet of tubing for every batch given how well the Janish dip tube screen works.

Just figured I'd share my experience, since I think both options work great for filtering out he dry hops after a cold crash. And if anyone here has ideas on what I've been doing wrong with the CBDS to get this weird grainy/cheesy off-flavor with IPAs when I've used them, I'm all ears.

 

[Loud Brewing]

Looks like a cool setup. How much pressure can a fermonster handle? Probably only 1 or 2 PSI needed?

I tested mine up to 20psi with water,and had a tiny leak at the spigot. I would prob not go over 10psi. You only need a couple psi to get things moving and/or prevent suckback during coldcrash

 

[NickC]

Latest batch... not the best lighting but close enough representation. In person looks a paler yellow and not as dark as pic. Super proud of this one.



6 lbs GP
3lbs 2 row
3lbs oat malt
2 lbs white wheat malt
1 lb GNO

Mash @ 158

OG 1070
FG 1018

Imperial Juice @ 68 up to 72 over 1 week

Soft crash to 50 for 48hrs

Dry Hop 4 days

Cold Crash to 38 for 48 hours then xfer to serving keg with suspended paint strainer bag of keg hops


Hop schedule: 1 oz Apollo 30 min boil, 5 oz Idaho 7 in WP, 4 oz whole cone mosaic and 2 oz galaxy in dry hop, and 2 oz whole cone mosaic serving keg.

 

[SRJHops]

I only pitched 1/2 the pack and used the other 1/2 on a Galaxy Pale ale. It def will work well for the style. I got lots of orange from it and a slight saison/bubblegumie note in it as well. So it adds a bit of complexity which is nice when fermented hot, like 90-95. I still prefer dryhop for my own taste but I will def be using it in some of my recipes to see how it changes things

Hey Dgallo! I was curious about your mention of fermenting hot... The kviek can handle those high temps, right? I used 1318 for the first time and wasn't prepared for how hot it got -- it was up to 77 the next morning, so I quickly cooled it down to 68. Based on your (and others) experience, do you think I could get some fusels from that? At most I think it was up in that range for 8 hours max...

I did some other process things differently this time too. I did a spit brew day, mashing and filling the kettle and raising to 185, then turning the heat off and leaving it overnight. I boiled the next morning. Temp did get down to 130 overnight, so I will be curious if I get any souring. Next time I will get it up to boiling and then shut it down overnight, assuming this batch turns out OK...

 

[Dgallo]

Hey Dgallo! I was curious about your mention of fermenting hot... The kviek can handle those high temps, right? I used 1318 for the first time and wasn't prepared for how hot it got -- it was up to 77 the next morning, so I quickly cooled it down to 68. Based on your (and others) experience, do you think I could get some fusels from that? At most I think it was up in that range for 8 hours max...

I did some other process things differently this time too. I did a spit brew day, mashing and filling the kettle and raising to 185, then turning the heat off and leaving it overnight. I boiled the next morning. Temp did get down to 130 overnight, so I will be curious if I get any souring. Next time I will get it up to boiling and then shut it down overnight, assuming this batch turns out OK...

If it was up there during the first two days or the big growth stage, there is a pretty good chance it threw some fusel on you. When fermentation is complete set it at 72 and give it 3-4 days to clean up. Can’t fully clean up fusel but it will be better than not doing anything

 

[ttuato]

Closing the loop on my “kitchen sink” NEIPA (26days from brew day). Not the best but definitely in the top five. Vic secret definitely took lead in aroma & flavor. This is the first time I can say that “guava” is the pronounced flavor in my beer. It is uncanny how much it tastes like guava also it has a very faint hint of pine on the tale end of the sip.

First pour in my new “fancy” beer glass that I bought for get together this weekend. Wife said that I need to be able to serve beer in glasses without a brewery label etched in it. Coincidentally - it is shocking the lack of glass options available that offer a true 16oz pour w/ room for good head. The imperial pint glass just doesnt do it for me neither does the “breaks if you look at it” Speiglau IPA glass. These are Luigi Bormioli Birrateque Stout glasses (identical to IPA glass but 20oz instead of 18oz volume).

Another sidebar - RE Janish book - I dropped malted wheat from my grain bill after reading and now only use mated oats & chit malt. My Brews are at least 0.5-1.0 SRM darker from the outset, oxidize faster (4-5weeks vs 8-10 w/ wheat) even though I employ some rigourous cold side lodo measures, less hazy over the entire life of keg (not that it is a goal just an observation), no noticeable differences in aroma nor body, more malt presence.

I recently purchased some Crisp Naked Oat Malt instead TF am hoping to improve efficiency since this is a hulless oat malt.

Chit malt doesnt live up to the Janish hype for me as I believe other process tweaks and more easily sourced ingredient can accomplish the same things.

I have been using all 2R lately for base - am switching back to all GP. I have noticed a difference in the “sweetness” even though never stopped using honey malt.

Made a “kitchen sink” NEIPA today - used up all of my hop remnants. Knowing my luck it will be the best beer I have ever brewed...

B: Bravo
WP: Willow Creek, Sabro, Southern Passion
DH1: Meridian, Vic Secret, Sabro
DH2: Vic Secret, Meridian, Galaxy

 

[tld6008]

Hey Dgallo! I was curious about your mention of fermenting hot... The kviek can handle those high temps, right? I used 1318 for the first time and wasn't prepared for how hot it got -- it was up to 77 the next morning, so I quickly cooled it down to 68. Based on your (and others) experience, do you think I could get some fusels from that? At most I think it was up in that range for 8 hours max...

I did some other process things differently this time too. I did a spit brew day, mashing and filling the kettle and raising to 185, then turning the heat off and leaving it overnight. I boiled the next morning. Temp did get down to 130 overnight, so I will be curious if I get any souring. Next time I will get it up to boiling and then shut it down overnight, assuming this batch turns out OK...

I have mashed and lautered one day and boiled/finished the next several times without any noticeable difference. I am sure my wort cooled below 130 before I started the boil the next day. I store the wort in sanitized plastic pails with the lids on tight.

 

[JohnConnor]

Hey Dgallo! I was curious about your mention of fermenting hot... The kviek can handle those high temps, right? I used 1318 for the first time and wasn't prepared for how hot it got -- it was up to 77 the next morning, so I quickly cooled it down to 68. Based on your (and others) experience, do you think I could get some fusels from that? At most I think it was up in that range for 8 hours max...

I did some other process things differently this time too. I did a spit brew day, mashing and filling the kettle and raising to 185, then turning the heat off and leaving it overnight. I boiled the next morning. Temp did get down to 130 overnight, so I will be curious if I get any souring. Next time I will get it up to boiling and then shut it down overnight, assuming this batch turns out OK...

I'll be interested to hear how you like fermenting 1318 that high. My last batch was a mess (I was on vacation and my brew helper didn't do what I wanted him to). I wanted to follow the same driving fermentation schedule I did with my last batch. Instead he set it at 74*F and let it rip. I did not like it at all.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Another sidebar - RE Janish book - I dropped malted wheat from my grain bill after reading and now only use mated oats & chit malt. My Brews are at least 0.5-1.0 SRM darker from the outset, oxidize faster (4-5weeks vs 8-10 w/ wheat) even though I employ some rigourous cold side lodo measures, less hazy over the entire life of keg (not that it is a goal just an observation), no noticeable differences in aroma nor body, more malt presence.

So you going back to the wheat? I've been working through some malted red wheat lately(after using white wheat for several batches) and once that runs out was going to get malted oats on my next order to try that out for awhile for comparisons sake.

 

[SRJHops]

I'll be interested to hear how you like fermenting 1318 that high. My last batch was a mess (I was on vacation and my brew helper didn't do what I wanted him to). I wanted to follow the same driving fermentation schedule I did with my last batch. Instead he set it at 74*F and let it rip. I did not like it at all.

Whoa, do you know how high it got and for how long? If it started at 74 I have to think it went over 80!

 

[SRJHops]

So you going back to the wheat? I've been working through some malted red wheat lately(after using white wheat for several batches) and once that runs out was going to get malted oats on my next order to try that out for awhile for comparisons sake.

I've read the Janish book several times (it's a bit harder to digest than I had hoped), but I don't remember him suggesting against malted wheat, as long as it wasn't too much. Maybe I missed it?

He does suggest switching to malted oats and avoiding flaked. He also loves that chit malt, but I am not currently planning to order any -- they don't have it at my LHBS.

 

[isomerization]

From Janish’s website:
http://scottjanish.com/dextrins-and-mouthfeel/

“Weyermann Carafoam (Carapils outside the US) is different than Briess Carapils and is akin to chit malt, high in protein and under-modified.”

 

[leesmith]

I've read the Janish book several times (it's a bit harder to digest than I had hoped), but I don't remember him suggesting against malted wheat, as long as it wasn't too much. Maybe I missed it?

He does suggest switching to malted oats and avoiding flaked. He also loves that chit malt, but I am not currently planning to order any -- they don't have it at my LHBS.

Have you tried malted wheat?
Do you like it?

 

[ttuato]

So you going back to the wheat? I've been working through some malted red wheat lately(after using white wheat for several batches) and once that runs out was going to get malted oats on my next order to try that out for awhile for comparisons sake.

Possibly - I am going to go work through the Crisp malted oats first and to see if improved.

To be honest the driving force for me to drop wheat malt was not the Janish book per se but rather what they actually do at Sapwood. Snipsnap (2R, flaked oats, chit); Pillowfort (2R, malted oats, chit), Rings of Light (2R, GNO, chit), Cryovolcano (2R, chit, flaked oats), Cheater Hops 1&2 (different now - 2R, flaked wheat, chit, C10)