New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[jakturner]

How far have you guys pushed imperial dryhop temp wise? I recently use it for the first time in a all Medusa brut IPA and it’s probably the most estery yeast I’ve ever used! The pre dryhop sample smelled like fruity bubble yum. I pitch at 75 and quickly cooled it to 68 within an hour, I let it free rise to a couple degrees at day up to 74. I’m kinda hoping it will tone down or blend with the dryhop, it’s a little overwhelming. Anyways, bout to use it in a NEIPA this weekend and wondering if I should raine in the temp a little

 

[Dgallo]

How far have you guys pushed imperial dryhop temp wise? I recently use it for the first time in a all Medusa brut IPA and it’s probably the most estery yeast I’ve ever used! The pre dryhop sample smelled like fruity bubble yum. I pitch at 75 and quickly cooled it to 68 within an hour, I let it free rise to a couple degrees at day up to 74. I’m kinda hoping it will tone down or blend with the dryhop, it’s a little overwhelming. Anyways, bout to use it in a NEIPA this weekend and wondering if I should raine in the temp a little

I always push it from 68-74/5 over the course of the first 2-3days. I love the ester profile of dryhop and have never had it conflict with the hops. I’ve also never got bubble gum. Just peach/nectarine and citrus. If you go above 76 you’ll get fusel alcohol from the A04 portion of dryhop.

 

[jakturner]

I always push it from 68-74/5 over the course of the first 2-3days. I love the water profile of dryhop and have never had it conflict with the hops. I’ve also never got bubble gum. Just peach/nectarine and citrus. If you go above 76 you’ll get fusel alcohol from the A04 portion of dryhop.

Ok thanks, the hottest wort temp I measured was 74.8* it’s not like bubble gum per se, more like the Fruit punch bubble yum (fruity with slight gumminess? Maybe those peach gummy rings?) it has a sweet profile despite a FG of 0.998, It was pre dryhop so we will see how it works with Medusa. Also I fermented under head pressure. Have you ever pitched hotter and cooled down to target temp post pitch? Maybe I chill down to 68 before pitching in a NEIPA this weekend.

 

[stickyfinger]

i think hot pitching with immediate cooling works fine in the summer. i just did an ipa with 1318. pitched at 77 and set fridge to cool to 72 immediately. no off-flavors i can detect. i suppose it may depend on the yeast though

 

[isomerization]

Ok thanks, the hottest wort temp I measured was 74.8* it’s not like bubble gum per se, more like the Fruit punch bubble yum (fruity with slight gumminess? Maybe those peach gummy rings?) it has a sweet profile despite a FG of 0.998, It was pre dryhop so we will see how it works with Medusa. Also I fermented under head pressure. Have you ever pitched hotter and cooled down to target temp post pitch? Maybe I chill down to 68 before pitching in a NEIPA this weekend.

I do this with pretty much every beer I make, regardless of strain (ale, lager, kveik). No issues here!

Caveat, you need to have active cooling measures, or you will be actively fermenting before the wort passively cools.

 

[Dgallo]

Ok thanks, the hottest wort temp I measured was 74.8* it’s not like bubble gum per se, more like the Fruit punch bubble yum (fruity with slight gumminess? Maybe those peach gummy rings?) it has a sweet profile despite a FG of 0.998, It was pre dryhop so we will see how it works with Medusa. Also I fermented under head pressure. Have you ever pitched hotter and cooled down to target temp post pitch? Maybe I chill down to 68 before pitching in a NEIPA this weekend.

It pairs well with Medusa. I did a Medusa & Huell Melon combo using it and it worked really well. I usually try to pitch it at 68, yeast produce the most esters during the growth stage which is Typically the first 36 hours. so if you pitch hot and it doesnt make its way back down to correct temps before they take off, the potential for fusel alcohol increases.

 

[jakturner]

It pairs well with Medusa. I did a Medusa & Huell Melon combo using it and it worked really well. I usually try to pitch it at 68, yeast produce the most esters during the growth stage which is Typically the first 36 hours. so if you pitch hot and it doesnt make its way back down to correct temps before they take off, the potential for fusel alcohol increases.

Nice, no Fusels I can detect, I pitched an active starter but I did get the wort temp down within an hour or two (actually over shot down to the low 60’s) but it equaled out to 68 by that evening. I soft crashed last night gonna dryhop tonight then into the fridge in on Sunday.
I was just curious on what u guys do for temps, I usually use London III or hornidal but the esters on this one are way more pronounced.

 

[flintoid]

i think hot pitching with immediate cooling works fine in the summer. i just did an ipa with 1318. pitched at 77 and set fridge to cool to 72 immediately. no off-flavors i can detect. i suppose it may depend on the yeast though

I've been doing 1318 at a start of 72 with an immediate cool down to 65. It never has off flavors, and creates the typical esters with this yeast which are subtle. I have held at 65 until kegging and also ramped it back up to 72 after a few days to "finish it off" and can tell no difference between the two methods.

 

[murphyslaw]

I've been thinking of moving towards fermenting in cornys. I tried it with an APA and it was a disaster bc my disconnects clogged. I'm thinking of trying Scott Janish's dip tube filter.

Has anyone had success keg fermenting beers with loads of dry hops? If so, any tips/tricks to share?

 

[stickyfinger]

You will likely have few issues if you do the following:

-Put in a floating dip tube (such as the clear beer draught system)
-Load in dry hops and let rest at whatever temp you like to dry hop at
-Set the freezer to chill down to 30s F 48 hrs before you want to rack
-Push beer from fermentation keg at 30-35 psi into serving keg with a spund valve on the serving keg set to 28-32 psi (could use other pressures if you desire, but i like high pressure as you need to carbonate it anyway once it is racked.)
-If you prefer to spund to carbonate before racking, then you have to be gentle with the transfer to avoid foaming into the spund valve

One possible issue I have had sometimes is the tubing on the floating dip tube can kink on occasion. If that happens, you have to shake around the keg a bit, let settle and then rack the rest off.

I've been thinking of moving towards fermenting in cornys. I tried it with an APA and it was a disaster bc my disconnects clogged. I'm thinking of trying Scott Janish's dip tube filter.

Has anyone had success keg fermenting beers with loads of dry hops? If so, any tips/tricks to share?

 

[NickC]

I've been thinking of moving towards fermenting in cornys. I tried it with an APA and it was a disaster bc my disconnects clogged. I'm thinking of trying Scott Janish's dip tube filter.

Has anyone had success keg fermenting beers with loads of dry hops? If so, any tips/tricks to share?

My recommendations-

1) floating dip tube
2) cold crash before racking
3) no more than 4.25 gal batches and I recommend ferm cap
4) transferring cold seems to be easier (I transfer at about 5 psi and pull PRV on receiving keg every couple minutes)

Had a couple of issues early on with clogged xfers but the cold crash and transfer cold have solved those issues.

 

[murphyslaw]

Thank you both. For a while, the smaller batch size presented a mental hurdle for me. But then I realized that I find myself without a tap for my next beer more often than I find myself with an empty tap, so I'm over that.

Sounds like a floating dip tube is preferable to the dip tube filter/screen. Might as well get one for fermenting and serving kegs, I suppose.

 

[stickyfinger]

the floating dip tubes are also great for nitro beers where you want super clear beer for the densest foam. you can transport with less issues due to resuspension of yeast as well.

I also use no more than 4.25-4.5G of wort in my corny

 

[BeerFst]

Thank you both. For a while, the smaller batch size presented a mental hurdle for me. But then I realized that I find myself without a tap for my next beer more often than I find myself with an empty tap, so I'm over that.

Sounds like a floating dip tube is preferable to the dip tube filter/screen. Might as well get one for fermenting and serving kegs, I suppose.

I have both, 2 CBDS and a janish dip tube. the CBDS is a much easier solution, though slightly more expensive. both work for serving direct from fermenting keg, i have one of each on tap right now. but when it came to buying another keg fermenting device i just stuck with CBDS. That said not all the orings for the mesh filter screen addon to the CBDS is available form that company, i know i can get similar ones at home depot but havent found the exact size yet. I asked the company but they didnt respond.

 

[Loud Brewing]

I dont ferment in keg but I use a version of the clear beer system in all my kegs for serving and even in the fermenter for transfers. If your cheap like me you can just use silicon tubing and an improvised float, something like a small pill bottle works great.

 

[Dgallo]

Just some FYI stuff.

So for the past couple of years I’ve been toying with the idea of brewing a NEIPA with Lavender and I finally did it. Two weeks ago I brewed my typical NEIPA grain bill (I’ve posted the gist previously) using Columbus/Citra hotside and Citra/Amarillo coldside. As I was whirlpool, I used 1oz of dried lavender flowers along with the hops at 165 for 30 minutes. That was the only lavender addition. Finished it with kviek Voss and went grain to glass in 7.5 days with soft crashing for yeast, dryhoping back at 65-70, and cold crashing before racking to keg. Went from 1.063-1.012 in 36 hours.

This beer smacks you on the nose and lips with lavender. Not perfumie or like grandmas soap but as if you’re holding fresh picked lavender. My wife, who genuinely knows beer, really likes it but I think it’s a tad too much and doesn’t show off the hops at all. It really shows some signs of brilliance but I think it needs to be dialed back some and it could really be something. In the mean time, I’m going to let this cold condition and see how it develops

 

[kevink]

Free float, cold crash for at least24hrs, Install a filter in your transfer line and discard the first few ounces that exposed to air in the line then proceed with transfer.

https://www.amazon.com/Line-Strainer-stainless-filter-screen/dp/B00CH2JSIY

I dryhop 1.5-2 oz per gallon. No more issues after I added the inline filter. If you don’t cold crash the filter will clog though.

Just wanted to mention that I tried the 20 mesh version of this filter on my last massively dry hopped (over 2 lbs) 10 gallon batch and it worked beautifully in preventing clogged poppets. The whole batch transferred no problem to two kegs. It did clog at the very end of the transfer, but that's to be expected, and I didn't really mind as there was mostly just hop sludge left in the fermenter at that point.

Sanitation was pretty simple. I just assembled it and attached tubing to each end of it under starsan and then pushed beer through it until the sanitizer was purged. I originally wanted to push the starsan out with CO2, but decided this was the better way to go.

The filter is extremely small, though, so it's not capable of filtering out much hop debris. I could never get away with not cold crashing and using this. For now, it's a keeper and I'll continue to use it. Thanks for the heads up and first-hand experience, @ttuato.

 

[kevink]

Again, that beer looks so good, @Dgallo. How would you compare that yeast to 1318 or A24 for this style, or is it hard to tell with the lavender in there?

 

[Dgallo]

Again, that beer looks so good, @Dgallo. How would you compare that yeast to 1318 or A24 for this style, or is it hard to tell with the lavender in there?

I only pitched 1/2 the pack and used the other 1/2 on a Galaxy Pale ale. It def will work well for the style. I got lots of orange from it and a slight saison/bubblegumie note in it as well. So it adds a bit of complexity which is nice when fermented hot, like 90-95. I still prefer dryhop for my own taste but I will def be using it in some of my recipes to see how it changes things

 

[isomerization]

Just wanted to mention that I tried the 20 mesh version of this filter on my last massively dry hopped (over 2 lbs) 10 gallon batch and it worked beautifully in preventing clogged poppets. The whole batch transferred no problem to two kegs. It did clog at the very end of the transfer, but that's to be expected, and I didn't really mind as there was mostly just hop sludge left in the fermenter at that point.

Sanitation was pretty simple. I just assembled it and attached tubing to each end of it under starsan and then pushed beer through it until the sanitizer was purged. I originally wanted to push the starsan out with CO2, but decided this was the better way to go.

The filter is extremely small, though, so it's not capable of filtering out much hop debris. I could never get away with not cold crashing and using this. For now, it's a keeper and I'll continue to use it. Thanks for the heads up and first-hand experience, @ttuato.

I picked up the same filter, but using a water test, couldn’t prevent lots of bubbles from forming at the exit of the filter. Any suggestions from those using it?

 

[jakturner]

I've been thinking of moving towards fermenting in cornys. I tried it with an APA and it was a disaster bc my disconnects clogged. I'm thinking of trying Scott Janish's dip tube filter.

Has anyone had success keg fermenting beers with loads of dry hops? If so, any tips/tricks to share?

I use the CBDS with the screen, works like a charm. I also use one of these
https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...t-60-cm-silicone-dip-tube-fermentasaurus.html
they are a third of the price and work equally well if you get a good cold crash in, you do have to replace the silicone tubing with a bigger diameter, I think 1/4 in ID. Also you will need to buy a gas in tube or cut your dip tube short. I typically use about 6oz of dryhop in a 4 gallon batch with no problems.

 

[kevink]

I picked up the same filter, but using a water test, couldn’t prevent lots of bubbles from forming at the exit of the filter. Any suggestions from those using it?

I also did a water test before racking beer to see how the purging would go and decided that it would be easier to fill it completely with starsan and then push beer through to get the starsan out. I completely filled my filter housing setup with starsan before moving beer and then purged out the starsan with beer, but you should be able to purge the air out without first filling it with starsan.

Using liquid to purge out air, the biggest air pocket forms in the center of the cap. To get that out, you need to flip the filter housing upside down for a second while beer is flowing. Then, orient the housing so the outlet is up, but move it slowly into that position. This should push all the air out of the outlet barb. The weird thing is that some bubbles will probably stick to the screen, so I kind of prefer to put the whole assemble together under starsan to eliminate all air bubbles.

 

[isomerization]

I also did a water test before racking beer to see how the purging would go and decided that it would be easier to fill it completely with starsan and then push beer through to get the starsan out. I completely filled my filter housing setup with starsan before moving beer and then purged out the starsan with beer, but you should be able to purge the air out without first filling it with starsan.

Using liquid to purge out air, the biggest air pocket forms in the center of the cap. To get that out, you need to flip the filter housing upside down for a second while beer is flowing. Then, orient the housing so the outlet is up, but move it slowly into that position. This should push all the air out of the outlet barb. The weird thing is that some bubbles will probably stick to the screen, so I kind of prefer to put the whole assemble together under starsan to eliminate all air bubbles.

Cool thanks, will play around with that. Was worried I was creating more problems than solved with filtering!

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Thank you both. For a while, the smaller batch size presented a mental hurdle for me. But then I realized that I find myself without a tap for my next beer more often than I find myself with an empty tap, so I'm over that.

Sounds like a floating dip tube is preferable to the dip tube filter/screen. Might as well get one for fermenting and serving kegs, I suppose.

I love small batches. I can still do all-grain in the comforts of my kitchen, and I get to brew more often. Fermenting in kegs is also pretty sweet. Cleanup is a breeze with the kegs and you can easily use CO2 minimize O2 exposure. Can easily cold crash without suck back.

I typically use the fermentasaurus CBDS and it works ok. A lot of times I have to tip the keg I'm transferring out of to get all the beer out. Not sure why but it works fine provided I cold crash. I did make a filter similar to Janish's and a few times I've dry hopped in a 2nd keg(to harvest yeast) using that and it also worked fine. Another method would be to cut the keg's dip tube shorter. With a cold crash I've heard that working out as well. Good luck

 

[leesmith]

A simple filter bag is all you need to ferment and dry hop in kegs....easy to clean...cheap and effective. Get keg lids with tabs welded on the inside. Use butchers twine to secure the bag to the lid. Use as big a bag that you can get away with...and suspend it so that it doesn’t reach the end of the dip tube and get sucked into it.

And yes...I’ve done it both ways...Janish screen...free ball...and I’ve gone back to using a bag. Never have any trouble with clogs or having to shake keg because something’s stuck.

I do shake the keg during dry hopping to ensure good extraction.

No difference. People in this thread and online will have opinions on that though.

Kegs are great to ferment in...can be pressurized...cleaned easy...transfers are easy...etc.

Great thread to read through:

Pressurized Closed Loop Corny Keg Fermenting
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ized-Closed-Loop-Corny-Keg-Fermenting.600563/

While I don’t use all the techniques prescribed....because I dry hop after fermentation and transfer...there is a lot of good info and details.

 

[murphyslaw]

A simple filter bag is all you need to ferment and dry hop in kegs....easy to clean...cheap and effective. Get keg lids with tabs welded on the inside. Use butchers twine to secure the bag to the lid. Use as big a bag that you can get away with...and suspend it so that it doesn’t reach the end of the dip tube and get sucked into it.

And yes...I’ve done it both ways...Janish screen...free ball...and I’ve gone back to using a bag. Never have any trouble with clogs or having to shake keg because something’s stuck.

I do shake the keg during dry hopping to ensure good extraction.

No difference. People in this thread and online will have opinions on that though.

Kegs are great to ferment in...can be pressurized...cleaned easy...transfers are easy...etc.

Great thread to read through:

Pressurized Closed Loop Corny Keg Fermenting
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ized-Closed-Loop-Corny-Keg-Fermenting.600563/

While I don’t use all the techniques prescribed....because I dry hop after fermentation and transfer...there is a lot of good info and details.

Thanks. That's the thread that got me started down this path. I'm trying to avoid using bags bc I've read it reduces utilization and flavor. I'll try the floating dip tube first, I think.

 

[murphyslaw]

A simple filter bag is all you need to ferment and dry hop in kegs....easy to clean...cheap and effective. Get keg lids with tabs welded on the inside. Use butchers twine to secure the bag to the lid. Use as big a bag that you can get away with...and suspend it so that it doesn’t reach the end of the dip tube and get sucked into it.

And yes...I’ve done it both ways...Janish screen...free ball...and I’ve gone back to using a bag. Never have any trouble with clogs or having to shake keg because something’s stuck.

I do shake the keg during dry hopping to ensure good extraction.

No difference. People in this thread and online will have opinions on that though.

Kegs are great to ferment in...can be pressurized...cleaned easy...transfers are easy...etc.

Great thread to read through:

Pressurized Closed Loop Corny Keg Fermenting
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ized-Closed-Loop-Corny-Keg-Fermenting.600563/

While I don’t use all the techniques prescribed....because I dry hop after fermentation and transfer...there is a lot of good info and details.

Thanks. That's the thread that got me started down this path. I'm trying to avoid using bags bc I've read it reduces utilization and flavor. I'll try the floating dip tube first, I think.

It looks like William's brewing sells one for $20 that comes with the gas in tube.

 

[NickC]

I use the CBDS with the screen, works like a charm. I also use one of these
https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...t-60-cm-silicone-dip-tube-fermentasaurus.html
they are a third of the price and work equally well if you get a good cold crash in, you do have to replace the silicone tubing with a bigger diameter, I think 1/4 in ID. Also you will need to buy a gas in tube or cut your dip tube short. I typically use about 6oz of dryhop in a 4 gallon batch with no problems.

At the time I ordered from that link, mine came with a gas in tube.

 

[NickC]

I love small batches. I can still do all-grain in the comforts of my kitchen, and I get to brew more often. Fermenting in kegs is also pretty sweet. Cleanup is a breeze with the kegs and you can easily use CO2 minimize O2 exposure. Can easily cold crash without suck back.

I typically use the fermentasaurus CBDS and it works ok. A lot of times I have to tip the keg I'm transferring out of to get all the beer out. Not sure why but it works fine provided I cold crash. I did make a filter similar to Janish's and a few times I've dry hopped in a 2nd keg(to harvest yeast) using that and it also worked fine. Another method would be to cut the keg's dip tube shorter. With a cold crash I've heard that working out as well. Good luck

A lot of people recommend the shorter dip tube, but mine always clogged even after cold crash. Tried a couple of times before switching to the top draw system and that fixed it.

 

[Dgallo]

Has anyone that ferments in a keg looked into large mouth carboys like fermonsters? They are like $30-40 for A 7 gallon. Then you can easily turn a solid cap into a closed system by installing ball lock post and a floating dip tube for another $30-40. I did this and I can cold crash and dryhop under pressure, closed transfer transfer to my serving keg and never have to worry about compromising volume and don’t have issues with clogging.

It’s the same thing as fermenting in a corny and roughly the same cost.