New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[ttuato]

I have read to Chapter 8 of Janish book so far - lots of great info and science explanation behind what we do (be warned - very scientific language used at times). I won't provide a bunch of spoilers but I do want to point out interesting process tweaks based on scientific tests regarding yeast / fermentation schedule for Ale yeast & dry hopping for NEIPA to increase esters & reduce unwanted non-fruity hop oils or astringency from polyphenols. (This is not overtly stated in book - I pieced this together.)

• Overpitch yeast - leads to increased esters (this was new info to me - not sure I will try this though)
  
• Pitch warm (3-5 degrees higher than top of your specific yeast temp range) and continue chilling to desired temp ---- leads to increased esters and possibly greater glycerol (max glycerol production in first 18hrs) (this was new info to me- definitely gonna do this since summer)
• Ferment on the warm side of the schedule - (temp that highest on scale for your yeast - usually 72-74) - increases fruity esters (no surprise here)
• Approximately 60hrs after pitch yeast, DROP the temp to lowest temp for your specific yeast (usually 60-64*) - leads to significant increase in esters. (this was new info to me - for sure gonna do this). Hold this low temp for approximately two days and add first small dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process)
• This should have you around day 5-6. Allow the temp to freerise back to the high end of the ferm schedule for the yeast (~72-74) hold this for 5 days add another small dryhop if desired (no more than 2-3oz & make sure to do LODO process
• Day 10-11 - Crash it to around 58* hold for a day for the yeast to crash then add final dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process). After 24hr crash completely - get the beer transferred off the final dryhop in under 48hrs
• In case you didn't notice the recommendation is small dryhop charges spread across 2-3 charges, including a biotrans dryhop - this reduces astringency from polyphenols & "green" hop oils and increases extraction efficiency of the hops - in turn this makes the beer drinkable sooner. (Not necessarily new info but I am gonna try the triple dryhop instead of my usual double to see if different).

There are few other pearls that I have gathered too. The above has me the most excited so far to try with NEIPAs and some process tweaks to improve my lager brewing that I learned. I strongly recommend everyone add this book to their brewing library.

 

[beervoid]

There’s a pretty big range of temps from fermentation to keg temp. Some people’s idea of dry hopping cold might be 60 or it might be 50 or 45?

Depending on your yeast and how well it floccs you might have to cool the beer down quite a big to get more yeast out of suspension. The difference between dry hopping at 50 vs 60 with the same variety might be rather dramatic?? I usually stick around 60.

When someone says cold it doesn’t always mean serving temp. It could mean colder than their first dry hop or colder than fermentation.

He was talking about serving temps.
The brewer I talked to dry hopped at 14c.

 

[NickC]

Saw @Dgallo oat creme ipa a few weeks back and decided I wanted to try more oat malt. First pour looks just like what I am after. Hard to tell how taste is going to turn out since I just transferred from fermenter today, but I think I’ll be sticking with more oat malt going forward.

Grain bill -
30% oat malt
30% 2 row
30% GP
5% GNO and
5% flaked barley

Yeast -
London Fog (also first time I’ve used this yeast, fermented using dgallos schedule)

2 weeks post kegging and the brew is hitting its stride. Def better over the past couple of days vs where it started early on. Aroma has been there, but flavor is really just now starting to come out.

 

[Genuine]

So far the Citra, mosaic and Idaho 7 in the dryhop is hitting all the right notes for me. I mashed at 156 and this batch ended at 1.020...and I gotta say, I don’t mind it at all.

 

[SRJHops]

I have read to Chapter 8 of Janish book so far - lots of great info and science explanation behind what we do (be warned - very scientific language used at times). I won't provide a bunch of spoilers but I do want to point out interesting process tweaks based on scientific tests regarding yeast / fermentation schedule for Ale yeast & dry hopping for NEIPA to increase esters & reduce unwanted non-fruity hop oils or astringency from polyphenols. (This is not overtly stated in book - I pieced this together.)

• Overpitch yeast - leads to increased esters (this was new info to me - not sure I will try this though)
  
• Pitch warm (75-80) and continue chilling to desired temp ---- leads to increased esters and possibly greater glycerol (max glycerol production in first 18hrs) (this was new info to me- definitely gonna do this since summer)
• Ferment on the warm side of the schedule - (70-72ish) - increases fruity esters (no surprise here)
• Approximately 60hrs after pitch yeast, DROP the temp to 60* - leads to significant increase in esters. (this was new info to me - for sure gonna do this). Hold this temp for approximately two days and add first small dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process)
• This should have you around day 5-6. Allow the temp to freerise to the high end of the ferm schedule for the yeast (~72) hold this for 5 days add another small dryhop if desired (no more than 2-3oz & make sure to do LODO process
• Day 10-11 - Crash it to around 50* hold for a day for the yeast to crash then add final dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process). After 24hr crash completely - get the beer transferred off the final dryhop in under 48hrs
• In case you didn't notice the recommendation is small dryhop charges spread across 2-3 charges, including a biotrans dryhop - this reduces astringency from polyphenols & "green" hop oils and increases extraction efficiency of the hops - in turn this makes the beer drinkable sooner. (Not necessarily new info but I am gonna try the triple dryhop instead of my usual double to see if different).

There are few other pearls that I have gathered too. The above has me the most excited so far to try with NEIPAs and some process tweaks to improve my lager brewing that I learned. I strongly recommend everyone add this book to their brewing library.

Can't wait to read it! Regarding that drop to 60 after 60 hours.... Doesn't that run the risk of stopping fermentation? Or is it drop to the low end of the yeast's range? For example, a24 Dry Hop has a range of 64 to 74.

Good news is I did pitch warm at 75 on Sunday, and I certainly overpitched!

 

[ttuato]

Can't wait to read it! Regarding that drop to 60 after 60 hours.... Doesn't that run the risk of stopping fermentation? Or is it drop to the low end of the yeast's range? For example, a24 Dry Hop has a range of 64 to 74.

Good news is I did pitch warm at 75 on Sunday, and I certainly overpitched!

Correct

I think those temps were based on generic ale yeast info. I would adjust according to your specific strain data (I will edit iriginal post to reflect so less confusing - thanks for call out). So for a24 - Set target of 73-74 for first three days. Pitch around 80 while continuing to chill to target. After 60ish hours from pitch, drop temp to bottom of range - 64 for a24 yeast - hold for two days at 64, afterwards allow to freerise back to upper end for 5-6 days.

I edited iriginal post - also fixed typo toward end - soft crash to 58* not 50 before adding final dryhop.

 

[ttuato]

One more plug for Janish book - at the end he interviews several commercial hazy brewers. Common theme regarding hopping schedule:

• Small bittering charge happens always (science shows target of 25IBUs from boil)
• Most common whirlpool amount is 1lb/bbl (0.5oz per gal) - Sapwood highest at 2lb/bbl (1oz/gal)
• Most common dryhop is 2-3lbs/bbl (1-1.5oz/gal)

Not necessarily new info per se but validating all the great experience from folks on this thread.

One very strong point made and reiterated many times throughout book via scientrific measures, tasting panel, brewers experience, etc - whirlpool hopping is an absolute must for hop saturated/layered flavor.


Also - buy stock in Chit malt...

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Also - buy stock in Chit malt...

Him and Tonsmeire love that stuff. I need to figure out if it's that much better than carafoam or carapils and worth going out of my way to get.

 

[SRJHops]

Him and Tonsmeire love that stuff. I need to figure out if it's that much better than carafoam or carapils and worth going out of my way to get.

Agreed. My LHBS doesn't carry chit malt, but they have carafoam. I used it on Sunday, so too early to know if I will be able to tell the difference.

 

[ttuato]

Him and Tonsmeire love that stuff. I need to figure out if it's that much better than carafoam or carapils and worth going out of my way to get.

It does make a difference in foam quality/denseness vs carafoam (never used carapils) BUT lacing seems comparable and I have not noticed any difference in body/haze like they suggest could happen.

Another tidbit on this topic from book - caramel malts have increased metal ions from malting proces vs chit malt. Metal ions contribute to faster oxidation. That is enough to make me wanna use it vs carafoam/carapils.

 

[isomerization]

Janish’s book is available on Amazon, just picked up a copy myself, looking forward to the read!

He has a nice rundown of the chapters (330+ pages!) on his blog too in case you’re on the fence.

 

[Dgallo]

My latest NEIPA, switch up the water profile and grain bill. Also step mashed at 148 and then 162

Water;
Ca:90
Mg:19
Na:73
So4: 89
Cl:178

Grains:
1.5% carapils
3.5% honey malt
15 % red wheat
80% 2 row

Hops;
Citra/Mosiac f.o & Whirlpool
Citra/Chinook dryhop

Happy with it so far and it was just kegged yesterday. Interested to see it condition. Really digging the body so far. Only complaint is I should have upped the IBUS

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Do you think the step mash made a difference? I have 2 batches finishing up with Conan yeast right now and I'm going to brew 2 more batches next week and put them directly on the yeast cakes. But I was going to do single infusion mash for one batch and step mash for the other(with identical grain bills and water) to see what difference it makes.

 

[Dgallo]

Do you think the step mash made a difference? I have 2 batches finishing up with Conan yeast right now and I'm going to brew 2 more batches next week and put them directly on the yeast cakes. But I was going to do single infusion mash for one batch and step mash for the other(with identical grain bills and water) to see what difference it makes.

I would like to say yes but I can’t say with any confidence since I changed my water profile as well. But the beer is soft on th palate.

what you plan to do is def going to give us a better idea

 

[Andre3000]

A few pages back there was some back and forth on the supposed oxidized beer color boogeyman.

Awhile back I did a super unscientific test. Excuse the poor lighting, and I checked the time stamp on the photos, you're looking at the same beer, but the one on the left spent no more than 17 hours on the counter and we have a fresh pour on the right.

So yes. The drastic "copper" color change is very real.

 

[Andre3000]

Looking for some hop recommendations on a "milkshake" style IPA. It will be a blood orange / grapefruit / lemon / lime citrus mess with vanilla and lactose.

Of the ones I've got in bulk that I think would be appropriate for this beer:

Amarillo
Laurel
Mosaic
Citra
Cascade
Simcoe

My initial thought was just 1:1 Cascade / Amarillo in the WP / DH but now I'm wondering if other combos might be better:

100% Cascade WP - Citra / Mosaic DH?
Cascade / Amarillo WP - Citra / Mosaic / Amarillo DH?

Basically looking for advice from anyone who has a lot of experience with a "citrusy" combination of the above.

Cheers!

 

[Dgallo]

Looking for some hop recommendations on a "milkshake" style IPA. It will be a blood orange / grapefruit / lemon / lime citrus mess with vanilla and lactose.

Of the ones I've got in bulk that I think would be appropriate for this beer:

Amarillo
Laurel
Mosaic
Citra
Cascade
Simcoe

My initial thought was just 1:1 Cascade / Amarillo in the WP / DH but now I'm wondering if other combos might be better:

100% Cascade WP - Citra / Mosaic DH?
Cascade / Amarillo WP - Citra / Mosaic / Amarillo DH?

Basically looking for advice from anyone who has a lot of experience with a "citrusy" combination of the above.

Cheers!

Mosiac, citra, Denali and Sabro

 

[Dgallo]

Mosiac, citra, Denali and Sabro

*edit* just reread your question more carefully. I listed great milkshake ipa hops. From your list citra simcoe and cascade hotside will aid citrus notes. Then citra, Amarillo, cascade dryhop.

If you’re willing to pick up another hop moteuka has a great citrus character in the dryhop

 

[Andre3000]

*edit* just reread your question more carefully. I listed great milkshake ipa hops. From your list citra simcoe and cascade hotside will aid citrus notes. Then citra, Amarillo, cascade dryhop.

If you’re willing to pick up another hop moteuka has a great citrus character in the dryhop

Thanks. Sortof in my line of thought as well.

I had a really bad experience with a massive motueka dry hop. Granted the hops were old and there might have been something else going on but they left massive grassy astringency in the beer. One of the only beers I've had to dump.

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks. Sortof in my line of thought as well.

I had a really bad experience with a massive motueka dry hop. Granted the hops were old and there might have been something else going on but they left massive grassy astringency in the beer. One of the only beers I've had to dump.

Those nz and aus are full of polyphenols and notorious for the astringent hop burn if used really heavy in the dryhop. I had a really nice experience dryhoping with motueka and citra in the past. Think I did 3 oz motuek 2 oz citra. Nice tropical fruit and like Meyer lemon.

Keep me post on the blend you choose, really interested in seeing how it turns out. I love milkshake style IPAs. I was really happy with the one I did

 

[stickyfinger]

Hey, thanks for the info. I ordered the paperback version but won't get it for a few days - very excited to read it! I am brewing a couple IPAs tomorrow and want to use this method you have outlined. I just have a few questions about the temperature transitions and the first two dry hops. Can you please clarify?

- i was going to attach my temperature controller probe to the side of my fermenter with insulation throughout this entire process, even during the temp increases. I assume that would be fine?

- is the first dry hop added when the beer is still at 72F but right before crashing to 64F OR right when the beer reaches 64F OR after it has been held at 64F for 2 days?

- is the second dry hop added before you raise the beer to 72F OR right when you get to 72F or after the beer has been held at 72F for 5 days?

I have read to Chapter 8 of Janish book so far - lots of great info and science explanation behind what we do (be warned - very scientific language used at times). I won't provide a bunch of spoilers but I do want to point out interesting process tweaks based on scientific tests regarding yeast / fermentation schedule for Ale yeast & dry hopping for NEIPA to increase esters & reduce unwanted non-fruity hop oils or astringency from polyphenols. (This is not overtly stated in book - I pieced this together.)

• Overpitch yeast - leads to increased esters (this was new info to me - not sure I will try this though)
  
• Pitch warm (3-5 degrees higher than top of your specific yeast temp range) and continue chilling to desired temp ---- leads to increased esters and possibly greater glycerol (max glycerol production in first 18hrs) (this was new info to me- definitely gonna do this since summer)
• Ferment on the warm side of the schedule - (temp that highest on scale for your yeast - usually 72-74) - increases fruity esters (no surprise here)
• Approximately 60hrs after pitch yeast, DROP the temp to lowest temp for your specific yeast (usually 60-64*) - leads to significant increase in esters. (this was new info to me - for sure gonna do this). Hold this low temp for approximately two days and add first small dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process)
• This should have you around day 5-6. Allow the temp to freerise back to the high end of the ferm schedule for the yeast (~72-74) hold this for 5 days add another small dryhop if desired (no more than 2-3oz & make sure to do LODO process
• Day 10-11 - Crash it to around 58* hold for a day for the yeast to crash then add final dryhop (no more than 3-4oz & make sure to do LODO process). After 24hr crash completely - get the beer transferred off the final dryhop in under 48hrs
• In case you didn't notice the recommendation is small dryhop charges spread across 2-3 charges, including a biotrans dryhop - this reduces astringency from polyphenols & "green" hop oils and increases extraction efficiency of the hops - in turn this makes the beer drinkable sooner. (Not necessarily new info but I am gonna try the triple dryhop instead of my usual double to see if different).

There are few other pearls that I have gathered too. The above has me the most excited so far to try with NEIPAs and some process tweaks to improve my lager brewing that I learned. I strongly recommend everyone add this book to their brewing library.

 

[stickyfinger]

Forgot to say that this Janish temperature fluctuation stuff reminds me of the BN CYBI episode where they try to replicate Fuller’s ESB. They skipped the fancy temperature profile for fermentation the first time and then used it the next time and got a lot closer. Anyone who’s had Fuller’s ESB knows it is a fruit BOMB! Must be similar thinking here, pretty cool.

 

[JohnConnor]

Forgot to say that this Janish temperature fluctuation stuff reminds me of the BN CYBI episode where they try to replicate Fuller’s ESB. They skipped the fancy temperature profile for fermentation the first time and then used it the next time and got a lot closer. Anyone who’s had Fuller’s ESB knows it is a fruit BOMB! Must be similar thinking here, pretty cool.

What's the "fancy temperature profile" they used to get close?

 

[stickyfinger]

What's the "fancy temperature profile" they used to get close?

i don't remember exactly, been a long time. it had something to do with jacking the temp down and up in the middle of fermentation...

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/post1633/

 

[ihavenonickname]

Process question, I can't decide what I think is better for timing of dry hops:


1) All 6oz on day 2-3. Hops are in weighted large bag in FV, then a truly closed oxygen free transfer into keg

2) 3oz dry hop on day 2-3 and 3oz dry hop in the keg loose. Closed transfer but not truly oxygen free because keg can only be burped with CO2 after the hops are in there.

 

[Dgallo]

Process question, I can't decide what I think is better for timing of dry hops:


1) All 6oz on day 2-3. Hops are in weighted large bag in FV, then a truly closed oxygen free transfer into keg

2) 3oz dry hop on day 2-3 and 3oz dry hop in the keg loose. Closed transfer but not truly oxygen free because keg can only be burped with CO2 after the hops are in there.

Can you dryhop in your fermenter and close transfer from there? I’m always a firm believer in loose dryhops

 

[ihavenonickname]

Can you dryhop in your fermenter and close transfer from there? I’m always a firm believer in loose dryhops

Yeah I can, I've got a anvil ss bucket, but I use huge fine mesh bags (which I like a little more than the canisters) to dry hop so i don't get a clog on my transfer. I've tried without but even with an extended cold crash and turning up the rotating racking arm I got clogs at the liquid "in" qd.

Do you think its better than keg hopping and burping with Co2 to get the majority of O2 out?

 

[Dgallo]

Yeah I can, I've got a anvil ss bucket, but I use huge fine mesh bags (which I like a little more than the canisters) to dry hop so i don't get a clog on my transfer. I've tried without but even with an extended cold crash and turning up the rotating racking arm I got clogs at the liquid "in" qd.

Do you think its better than keg hopping and burping with Co2 to get the majority of O2 out?

Idk, I’ve never keg hopped. I don’t have a floating dip tube and I’m Always afraid clogging it or getting hop particles jammed in the liquid balllock post. Someone with experience there is better than I to answer that.

 

[marchuk96]

Idk, I’ve never keg hopped. I don’t have a floating dip tube and I’m Always afraid clogging it or getting hop particles jammed in the liquid balllock post. Someone with experience there is better than I to answer that.

Agreed..I've never keg hopped either but I just don't see the point...extra hassle and more material to flock out for a minimal return IMO...I'll stick to my 2 day dry hop warm

 

[ttuato]

Hey, thanks for the info. I ordered the paperback version but won't get it for a few days - very excited to read it! I am brewing a couple IPAs tomorrow and want to use this method you have outlined. I just have a few questions about the temperature transitions and the first two dry hops. Can you please clarify?

- i was going to attach my temperature controller probe to the side of my fermenter with insulation throughout this entire process, even during the temp increases. I assume that would be fine?

- is the first dry hop added when the beer is still at 72F but right before crashing to 64F OR right when the beer reaches 64F OR after it has been held at 64F for 2 days?

- is the second dry hop added before you raise the beer to 72F OR right when you get to 72F or after the beer has been held at 72F for 5 days?

@stickyfinger Sorry for the delay but I think I still caught you before before dryhop timing. Let me start with this

DISCLAIMER: I have not attempted the ferm schedule yet - just reporting back what I picked up from the book.

I am not brewing a NEIPA again until 6/21 and am planning of trying this then, so I would love to hear what you think. Now to answer your questions.

The challenge with externally mounted thermometer is that the temp during primary fermentation is warmer in the center of the liquid compared to the edges AND the other side of the fermenter wall. As such, if using a externally mounted thermometer I would consider adjusting the temps in the ferm schedule down 2-3 degrees for the first four days down only. After the first four days the majority of fermentation would be finished with ale yeast and the heat output by fermentation would have subsided and the temp gradient within the liquid should have normalized.

First dry hop would be after the temp drop to the low side of the ferm schedule. The premise that I gathered from the book is that the higher pitching temp plus the higher temp of the first 60hrs would lead to a much more vigorous / faster fermentation. Assuming this is true the SG should be at least in the 1.020's by you drop it to th low end of the temp schedule (if not I would personally wait until it hits 1.024). The goal of this dryhop is to strip the "green" hop oils (non-polar) and boost linalool & geraniol (polar) - not for biotransformation, just flavor contribution - as well as to layer thiols. Additional benefit by doing this dryhop is to "lock-in" more haze (polyphenol/protein complex) that the oils (both polar & non-polar) from the subsequent dryhops can cling to. Moral of story - research says that you need to at least do a double dryhop along with boil hops & whirlpool to get maximum saturation of hop oils in beer.

Second dry hop - nothing specific on timing or actual benefit for this one is given other than a general recommendation to add dryhops in multiple additions to boost efficiency and layer different hop oils. The most critical part here is to not overdo this one (smallest of the three) since it will have a long exposure to the beer (polyphenols) and will lack active yeast to strip the green / woody hop oils.

Third dry hop - largest of the three dryhops. 90% extraction occurs of the GOOD hop oils / thiols occur within 24 hrs regardless of the temp. The green/woody hop oils take up to 72hrs to fully extract. I have been subscribing to this particular process step for several months - it definitely makes a difference in conditioning time and longevity.

 

[ttuato]

Yeah I can, I've got a anvil ss bucket, but I use huge fine mesh bags (which I like a little more than the canisters) to dry hop so i don't get a clog on my transfer. I've tried without but even with an extended cold crash and turning up the rotating racking arm I got clogs at the liquid "in" qd.

Do you think its better than keg hopping and burping with Co2 to get the majority of O2 out?

@ihavenonickname


Split the hops - see my previous post.

Keg hopping sucks, in my opinion, UNLESS you can allow your beer to condition for two weeks after kegging and then are capable of drinking all of it within the subsequent two week window afterwards that it will be in its prime.

For the second dryhop - when adding the first dryhop (loose pellets) during fermentation, suspend the second dryhop in a mesh bag in the top of the fermentor by tying it off with unflavored floss to one of the hooks on your fermentor. When the time comes for the second dryhop, pop the hinges (don't remove lid) of the Anvil to remove the pressure from the floss and allow it to drop into the fermentor.



To avoid clogged poppets - try adding a inline filter on your transfer hose to catch hop debris like in the pic. In my experience the first half gallon or so is the worse - so I use this and when the flow slows down due the filter being blocked by debris I switch to another transfer line without a filter to finish. Since doing this I have not had any clogged poppets and I dry hop loose in fermentor.

 

[Andre3000]

@stickyfinger
The challenge with externally mounted thermometer is that the temp during primary fermentation is warmer in the center of the liquid compared to the edges AND the other side of the fermenter wall. As such, if using a externally mounted thermometer I would consider adjusting the temps in the ferm schedule down 2-3 degrees for the first four days down only. After the first four days the majority of fermentation would be finished with ale yeast and the heat output by fermentation would have subsided and the temp gradient within the liquid should have normalized.

Not trying to challenge you but I have found in general this notion of warmer temps in the center of the wort to be overstated.

I measured several of my fermentations from both the center and an insulated probe on the outside of the carboy (I've since switched to kegs) and found the difference to be less than .5 F whenever I was checking it. YMMV.

 

[isomerization]

Not trying to challenge you but I have found in general this notion of warmer temps in the center of the wort to be overstated.

I measured several of my fermentations from both the center and an insulated probe on the outside of the carboy (I've since switched to kegs) and found the difference to be less than .5 F whenever I was checking it. YMMV.

I will partially agree, during peak fermentation, my Tilt (can’t say exactly where it inside the fermenter though) will register 1-2 F higher than the probe taped on the side of the SS bucket.

I would still agree with @ttuato sdvice though to lower it, just perhaps not the full 3 F.

 

[isomerization]

@ihavenonickname


Split the hops - see my previous post.

Keg hopping sucks, in my opinion, UNLESS you can allow your beer to condition for two weeks after kegging and then are capable of drinking all of it within the subsequent two week window afterwards that it will be in its prime.

For the second dryhop - when adding the first dryhop (loose pellets) during fermentation, suspend the second dryhop in a mesh bag in the top of the fermentor by tying it off with unflavored floss to one of the hooks on your fermentor. When the time comes for the second dryhop, pop the hinges (don't remove lid) of the Anvil to remove the pressure from the floss and allow it to drop into the fermentor.



To avoid clogged poppets - try adding a inline filter on your transfer hose to catch hop debris like in the pic. In my experience the first half gallon or so is the worse - so I use this and when the flow slows down due the filter being blocked by debris I switch to another transfer line without a filter to finish. Since doing this I have not had any clogged poppets and I dry hop loose in fermentor.

I got it off amazon for $15.

View attachment 629857

Are you purging the line at all or just dumping the first “runnings”?

 

[tld6008]

Are you purging the line at all or just dumping the first “runnings”?

I have been surprised at the small if any temperature difference between my Tilt and the external probe (secured by bungee under a large insulating pad). I also find it hard to believe there would be hot spots in the FV with the maelstrom created during active fermentation which is clearly evident using a glass carboy.

 

[Dgallo]

I have been surprised at the small if any temperature difference between my Tilt and the external probe (secured by bungee under a large insulating pad). I also find it hard to believe there would be hot spots in the FV with the maelstrom created during active fermentation which is clearly evident using a glass carboy.

Think of it like your body. Your skin is cooler than your internal temp due to the ambient temperature around you. Same will happen in your fermenter because your glass carboy is a better temperature conductor of the air temp than the beer inside. Depending on the demensions of your fermenter, you will see different temp differences. A shorter wider fermenter will have a bigger change in temp from center to outside than a taller thinner fermenter

 

[ttuato]

Are you purging the line at all or just dumping the first “runnings”?

Dump first runnings

 

[tld6008]

Think of it like your body. Your skin is cooler than your internal temp due to the ambient temperature around you. Same will happen in your fermenter because your glass carboy is a better temperature conductor of the air temp than the beer inside. Depending on the demensions of your fermenter, you will see different temp differences. A shorter wider fermenter will have a bigger change in temp from center to outside than a taller thinner fermenter

I was trying to point out that I see little difference between the internal temp (as recorded by TILT hydrometer) and the FV surface temp (as recorded by insulated Inkbird probe).

 

[Dgallo]

I was trying to point out that I see little difference between the internal temp (as recorded by TILT hydrometer) and the FV surface temp (as recorded by insulated Inkbird probe).

I see a two degree difference for my surface and internal Which for the fermentation drive I do with A24 is the difference between a beautiful ester profile and fusel alcohol. Guess it depends on the equipment

 

[cheesebach]

I was trying to point out that I see little difference between the internal temp (as recorded by TILT hydrometer) and the FV surface temp (as recorded by insulated Inkbird probe).

My experience has been the same. I ferment in a corny keg with the probe attached externally using a blob of plumbers putty. My tilt stays within 1 degree of my set temp even during peak fermentation. The only time the difference is any larger than is when I'm heating/cooling quickly to try to ramp the temp up/down. I'd expect plastic fermenter with bubble wrap and tape to hold the probe would probably not be as accurate though.