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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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The NEIPA is for a party on 6/9 so I am wondering if I should throw in another charge of 3-4 oz of hops split between mosiac/citra. I'm afraid of the hop flavor fading by the party.

Yes, it will be past its best by the 6th of September.... :)

the beer is more grassy than I expected. May be due to an 11 day drop hop?

11 days is longer than it needs to be - but temperature seems to be more of a factor for the grassy thing, many commercial breweries are dry hopping at cellar temperature, say 13C/55F. What temperature was the beer during the dry hop?
 
11 days is longer than it needs to be - but temperature seems to be more of a factor for the grassy thing, many commercial breweries are dry hopping at cellar temperature, say 13C/55F. What temperature was the beer during the dry hop?

Started off at 65F finished at 69F. This is the longest warm dry hop I've done. Got lazy and transferes to the serving keg later than originally planned. It's not an unpleasant grassiness though. It's actually pleasant, but my goal was for it to be more on the juicy side.

Maybe once chilled it will balance out.
 
Fermenting in a keg I can get 4.5 gal with ales and 4.75 gal of lagers. But you must use a blow off or have a way to prevent blow off from getting into the spund valve if you use one.

It's not ideal to lose those extra few beers, but there are a lot of positive trade offs.

I would think by the time you add a 6-8oz dry hop charge you are loosing more than a few beers right? If I can convince my brother to get a kegerator setup I was thinking about moving to double batches. Ferment them in one of the converted sanke fermenters. Would end up with two full 5g kegs per batch.

I am totally into the quality over quantity approach -- but right now my brewing process is outside and very manual. Once I have the ability to go electric inside I might be able to brew more often with less moving equipment around, not having to brew around weather, etc. It takes a while and with kids, etc just can't brew enough to justify all that loss. My compromise is to transfer at the tail end of fermentation and spund. Timing that has been pretty tricky as fast as 1318 ferments though!
 
I would think by the time you add a 6-8oz dry hop charge you are loosing more than a few beers right? If I can convince my brother to get a kegerator setup I was thinking about moving to double batches. Ferment them in one of the converted sanke fermenters. Would end up with two full 5g kegs per batch.

Big IPAs with a massively dry hop are obviously a little less. Probably more like 4 1/4 - 4 1/3 G.
 
Yes, it will be past its best by the 6th of September.... :)

6/9 is June 9 over here

11 days is longer than it needs to be - but temperature seems to be more of a factor for the grassy thing, many commercial breweries are dry hopping at cellar temperature, say 13C/55F. What temperature was the beer during the dry hop?
 
Brewing another variation this weekend.
Mixing it up a bit based on some recent examples I have tasted and different hops to try from Yakima valley. Also received in my new larger mash tun!

6.5 Gallons
OG-1.062
FG- 1.014(ideally)
Mash in at 151. Batch sparge.
10lbs- Golden promise (77%)
2lbs- flaked oats (15%)
1lbs- golden naked oats (8%)

Yeast- 1318

30min- CTZ - 1oz

Flameout/180- 1.0oz equal additions of Azacca, Citra, Mosaic, Hallertau Blanc, Calypso.

Day 3-Dry Hop #1- 1.0oz equal amounts of Mosaic, Azacca, Hallertau Blanc, El Dorado.

Day7- Dry Hop #2- 1.0oz equal amounts of Mosaic, Azacca, Hallertau Blanc, El Dorado.

Total hops- 14oz. (Undecided at this point if I’ll do any keg hopping as I purchased a new keg Hop filter)

Water-standard profile I always use for mouthfeel. start out with RO and add to get to SO4 75, CL 150.

Going to turn around in 14 Days, unless an issue comes up. Haven’t used golden promise in this style, however I have tasted it. Really thought it added some depth. Usually throw in white wheat malt as well, replaced with golden naked oats. Looking forward to it!

So, this is it for your first batch? No 2-row at all? I happened to see your DIPA recipe so i thought i would check to be sure nothing was left out here. Thanks
 
I always add my minerals and lactic acid in the mash water and the sparge water the night before I brew. I am using Bru'n Water and I have always very good result.
I do the same. It takes my filter several hours to produce 12 gallons of RO water. I add the salt/mineral acid additions to the container first and let the RO water mix them as it fills.
 
There's nothing in @LittlejohnBrew's profile to indicate where they are.... But just generally it's a courtesy on an international forum to avoid formats that hinder communication rather than enhance it.
No offense, I just assumed location since he brewed the batch on 5/18 and there is no alternative for that date so September never entered my mind.
 
There's nothing in @LittlejohnBrew's profile to indicate where they are.... But just generally it's a courtesy on an international forum to avoid formats that hinder communication rather than enhance it.

Sorry didn't mean to be uncourteous. Didn't even cross my mind that it would cause confusion. Interestingly per ISO 8601, the international standard date notation is YYYY-MM-DD.

Ended up not doing another charge of hops and now it's chilling. May taste it in a day or so. If it seems off will decide then if more hops are worthwhile.
 
Don't worry about it, I'm just messing with you, it was obvious from the particular context. Having said that, I do try to avoid using numbers for months on the internet, just to avoid confusion it's better to spell them out as words.
 
Quick question re kegging and how long it stays juicy ?

Ive brewed a few neipa's now, last one was very close to the recipe in post 5803. I used 18oz in the last one. 10oz in the dry hop !

I'm having trouble with lasting flavor in the keg, I find that once kegged and force carbed within 48 hours of kegging it tastes amazing but the really intense juicy flavor only lasts about a week, the beer seems to clear a bit and it goes a bit bland. Is this normal ? it almost seems to me that the flavor is dropping out the keg and obv getting poured in the first 4 or 5 pints.

Im chilling down to 36F for two days before kegging, transfer via co2 from my conical into a full starsan purged keg. Being really careful to not introduce o2 when dry hopping ect.

Anyone had this issue or thoughts ? Beer on left is 4 days after kegging, one on right 8 days and noticeably less juicy but looks similar. Its not a slow deterioration, more of a great one pint not so great the next.
 

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Quick question re kegging and how long it stays juicy ?

Ive brewed a few neipa's now, last one was very close to the recipe in post 5803. I used 18oz in the last one. 10oz in the dry hop !

I'm having trouble with lasting flavor in the keg, I find that once kegged and force carbed within 48 hours of kegging it tastes amazing but the really intense juicy flavor only lasts about a week, the beer seems to clear a bit and it goes a bit bland. Is this normal ? it almost seems to me that the flavor is dropping out the keg and obv getting poured in the first 4 or 5 pints.

Im chilling down to 36F for two days before kegging, transfer via co2 from my conical into a full starsan purged keg. Being really careful to not introduce o2 when dry hopping ect.

Anyone had this issue or thoughts ? Beer on left is 4 days after kegging, one on right 8 days and noticeably less juicy but looks similar. Its not a slow deterioration, more of a great one pint not so great the next.

It doesn't take much O2 to rob you of all that hop goodness. The force carb alone has enough O2 impurity alone to kill a batch. I'd start by looking into water purging your kegs (or using fermentation gases) and spunding to carbonate.

What you describe is exactly what I used to experience. Now i maintain the hop flavor and aroma for months.
 
It doesn't take much O2 to rob you of all that hop goodness. The force carb alone has enough O2 impurity alone to kill a batch. I'd start by looking into water purging your kegs (or using fermentation gases) and spunding to carbonate.

What you describe is exactly what I used to experience. Now i maintain the hop flavor and aroma for months.

I fill the keg full with starsan solution then push it all out using a couple of psi, I then release the pressure and then fill it via the liquid out post. Maybe its not good enough and I need to look at it again
 

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I fill the keg full with starsan solution then push it all out using a couple of psi, I then release the pressure and then fill it via the liquid out post. Maybe its not good enough and I need to look at it again

I've only done a few beers using the closed loop fermentation method and natural carbonating. AND, I haven't done a comparison directly with my old method, side by side. However, it seems that I am getting more intensely hoppy beer using the closed loop method. Try it if you can and see if it helps with your problem. There is also just going to be some drop off in "intensity" of the beer no matter what as hop particles and yeast drop out. The hop particles and yeast can give the impression of a thicker more intensely hoppy beer for the first few days to a week I think.
 
Anyone have a solid fermentation temp profile for White Labs WLP066 London Fog? Every homebrew shop around here is out of 1318, so I got this stuff as a replacement.
 
Anyone have a solid fermentation temp profile for White Labs WLP066 London Fog? Every homebrew shop around here is out of 1318, so I got this stuff as a replacement.
I let mine ride from 66 to 72 and in 3 days it was almost done, at least enough for me to sound.

I did overbuild a starter to harvest and with this I was glad I had a blowoff attached. Somewhere between 24-36 hrs my one gallon of headspace was full and my starsan was a vanilla milkshake. I didn’t snap a picture during high krausen, but here is my blowoff star San.
E85E2CAB-061E-442C-9F6F-D8E4FD0645DF.jpeg
 
How assertive is the pineapple flavor at 2 lbs? Assuming this is a 5gal batch?

Going to add mandarin purée to a 5 gal batch of IPA soon and I'd like to have the flavor but don't want it to overwhelm the beer.
Adding the zest or rinds at 15 mins left in the boil will also add lots of mandarin/orange flavor. The oranges kind of get lost in the potent hop flavor/aroma.
 
Not that it matters a great deal, but I know people are always wondering about "what makes NEIPA's hazy?" Just thought I would post a rather interesting recent beer..... Basically, I wanted to make a version of this that was really more of a west coast/session american pale ale. So, I did the following....

Water:
175:50 Sulfate to Chloride

Grain Bill (1.048 OG):
40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
10% White Wheat
7% Corn Sugar
3% Carahell (10L)

Hops (35 IBU's from 30 minute and 5 minute additions):
23 IBU Centennial @ 30 min.
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra at 5 minutes
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra after chilling wort started
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra Dry hop - Day 6 or 7.... after fermentation basically finished.

Yeast:
1968.... .this yeast drops out like a rock and leaves crystal clear beers in a relatively short period of time.

Used Irish Moss
Cold Crashed before transferring to serving Keg.
Brewed it a month ago....... Been sitting in kegerator undisturbed for past couple weeks. And here it is...... suspiciously looking like a NE IPA.

So..... things that people often attribute haziness to were not done in this beer:
* Used a VERY flocculent yeast
* No flaked grains
* No dry hop early in fermentation
* Cold Crashed
* Used Irish Moss

What remained the same???
* Fairly high proportion of oily hops late/whirlpool/Dry hop (Citra/Galaxy)
* Lower temp whirlpool addition
* ..... That is about it.

I don't really care that much about the haziness of these beers..... but, I thought it was interesting that the beer came out like this in spite of the absence of a lot of the "necessary" NE IPA ingredients/strategies....

Oh - by the way - the beer turned out great. Definitely a drinker.

beer.jpg
 
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Not that it matters a great deal, but I know people are always wondering about "what makes NEIPA's hazy?" Just thought I would post a rather interesting recent beer..... Basically, I wanted to make a version of this that was really more of a west coast/session american pale ale. So, I did the following....

Water:
175:50 Sulfate to Chloride

Grain Bill (1.048 OG):
40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
10% White Wheat
7% Corn Sugar
3% Carahell (10L)

Hops (35 IBU's from 30 minute and 5 minute additions):
23 IBU Centennial @ 30 min.
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra at 5 minutes
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra after chilling wort started
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra Dry hop - Day 6 or 7.... after fermentation basically finished.

Yeast:
1968.... .this yeast drops out like a rock and leaves crystal clear beers in a relatively short period of time.

Used Irish Moss
Cold Crashed before transferring to serving Keg.
Brewed it a month ago....... Been sitting in kegerator undisturbed for past couple weeks. And here it is...... suspiciously looking like a NE IPA.

So..... things that people often attribute haziness to were not done in this beer:
* Used a VERY flocculent yeast
* No flaked grains
* No dry hop early in fermentation
* Cold Crashed
* Used Irish Moss

What remained the same???
* Fairly high proportion of oily hops late/whirlpool/Dry hop (Citra/Galaxy)
* Lower temp whirlpool addition
* ..... That is about it.

I don't really care that much about the haziness of these beers..... but, I thought it was interesting that the beer came out like this in spite of the absence of a lot of the "necessary" NE IPA ingredients/strategies....

Oh - by the way - the beer turned out great. Definitely a drinker.

View attachment 574326

NEIPA = Murky

You made hazy. Looks good.
 
Not that it matters a great deal, but I know people are always wondering about "what makes NEIPA's hazy?" Just thought I would post a rather interesting recent beer..... Basically, I wanted to make a version of this that was really more of a west coast/session american pale ale. So, I did the following....

Water:
175:50 Sulfate to Chloride

Grain Bill (1.048 OG):
40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
10% White Wheat
7% Corn Sugar
3% Carahell (10L)

Hops (35 IBU's from 30 minute and 5 minute additions):
23 IBU Centennial @ 30 min.
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra at 5 minutes
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra after chilling wort started
1/2 oz. each of Centennial/Galaxy/Citra Dry hop - Day 6 or 7.... after fermentation basically finished.

Yeast:
1968.... .this yeast drops out like a rock and leaves crystal clear beers in a relatively short period of time.

Used Irish Moss
Cold Crashed before transferring to serving Keg.
Brewed it a month ago....... Been sitting in kegerator undisturbed for past couple weeks. And here it is...... suspiciously looking like a NE IPA.

So..... things that people often attribute haziness to were not done in this beer:
* Used a VERY flocculent yeast
* No flaked grains
* No dry hop early in fermentation
* Cold Crashed
* Used Irish Moss

What remained the same???
* Fairly high proportion of oily hops late/whirlpool/Dry hop (Citra/Galaxy)
* Lower temp whirlpool addition
* ..... That is about it.

I don't really care that much about the haziness of these beers..... but, I thought it was interesting that the beer came out like this in spite of the absence of a lot of the "necessary" NE IPA ingredients/strategies....

Oh - by the way - the beer turned out great. Definitely a drinker.

View attachment 574326

I would like to know how much haziness 10% of wheat add to this NEIPA, looks gorgeous.
 
NEIPA = Murky

You made hazy. Looks good.

I have always been pretty averse to the "murky" end of the spectrum. My personal experience and opinion is that the murky beers are often very yeasty, and those beers have never come across as the best examples for me. Even my NEIPA with 1318 leans heavy toward very hazy vs. murky. This one ended up pretty similar in haziness to my typical NE IPA recipe.
 

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