No boil for extract?

[Tdmar]

I'm a noob to home brew so forgive the rookie questions.
Yesterday I started my first batch using Coopers IPA kit. The brew store I bought it from also said to add a 500g of Dry Malt Extract and 500g of Dextrose Priming Sugar.
I wasn't able to get a lot of help from them at the store about the "how-to" with this stuff, but the kit did come with some directions.
The directions did not say anything about boiling water or anything. They weren't very clear to be honest.
So I simply added the molasses type liquid, Malt Extract and Priming Sugar to water that I temped at 25 degrees Celsius. Mixed well. Sprinkled yeast and put the lid on with the Econo-Lock.
It was not until I started looking further into the next steps over the upcoming week that I discovered I might have needed to boil water with the ingredients and should have used the hydrometer to take a reading.
Will it be a significant problem that I didn't do either of those?
I'm not seeing any action out of the airlock which makes me worried I may have done something wrong.

Thanks for your help!

 

[kristiismean]

okay, yes. might have been a mistake, but might not of.

They actually have a No boil canned kit that is ready to go, just add water, I am thinking you might of gotten one of those.

they have no boil, 20 minute boil, and 60 minute boil. Because the LME was prehopped, it should be "okay"

Now, it will probably NOT be good beer, will it be drinkable, yes. Kinda like me with fried chicken. I like making it, and it's getting to the point where people might ask for more...... (practice makes perfect)

it's a good way for people to get into the hobby, buy adding more and more equipment as time goes on. The priming sugar was probably for bottling. and Sanitation might be an issue. So before it's done (I hope the airlock is bubbling, I hope you have an airlock, what vessel did you in fact put this mix in??) do your reading on how to properly keep the working area sanitized etc....

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=86905

 

[dwhite60]

Lots of people make very enjoyable beer with Coopers kits. If they didn't Coopers would not be aroumd today.

Some of Coopers kits call for adding dextrose to the mix. You are fine. Adding dextrose and some more extract enhances the flavor, body, and alcohol content.

If you had a no boil kit and followed the instructions it will make good beer. Sticking with the hobby and adding a little equipment at a time and getting a little more experience you will make better beer though. Relax. See what happens with what you made. Move on from there.

Now, the first batch of beer I made was horrible. No one told me to take the pot off the burner before adding extract. Suddenly little smoke filled bubbles started coming to the top. Had a little burned smoky flavor to it, but I drank it. Then, I made the next batch .....

All the Best,
D. White

 

[Tdmar]

They did give me an additional priming sugar that is for bottling.
The kit came with a fermentation bucket that does have a hole for the airlock, however the airlock is not bubbling yet. It's been over 24 hours.
I was pretty diligent with sanitation, so hopefully that will not be an issue.
Does it seem strange that there was sugar added at this stage?

 

[Tdmar]

That's definitely the approach I plan on taking. Run with it, let it ride, and make changes as I go.
Being an analytical guy, I'll want to know everything as I go too though!

Hopefully I can avoid a nice smokey batch though! Hahaha!

 

[Gerry_P]

Hey Tdmar, welcome to homebrewing.
I don't mean to sound nit-picky here, but I just want to mention that the dextrose added to the wort isn't referred to as priming sugar. Priming sugar is what you add at bottling to make the bubbles.
For future reference, you can prime with regular table sugar if you'd like to save a little money. I've used it a number of times and couldn't detect any flavor difference between sucrose (table sugar), dextrose, and malt extract priming methods.

Some people feel very strongly that you should never boil hopped extract. I'm not one of them, but your beer should be fine as long as you've maintained a reasonably cootie-free environment. Also, it's not uncommon to add sugar to your wort. It adds alcohol and lightens the body (of the beer that is) without changing the flavor, although some sugary fermentables like molasses do affect the flavor.

Don't worry about the hydrometer. You can plug your ingredients into a brewing calculator and as long as you combined the correct amount of water with your fermentables you'll get an accurate original gravity figure. Use the hydrometer later to see if you've hit your expected final gravity. Using the hydrometer for your OG reading is more important when you start mashing your grains, not so much with extract brewing.

The best thing you can do for your IPA once it's in the fermenter is to maintain fermentation temperatures somewhere in the mid 60s (F).
Barring a bacterial infection, I think your beer will be fine. It won't be anything spectacular, but the fact that you made it yourself will make it taste better.
Good luck!

 

[RWC]

Also seems like not the greatest brew store if they didn't offer much help. You'd think if they could help people make good beer their turnaround would be better.

 

[flars]

Here is a link to the Coopers site which will help fill in some of the information gaps.
http://store.coopers.com.au/brewing...nce-between-brewing-sugar-brew-enhancer-1-etc

 

[kristiismean]

Lots of people make very enjoyable beer with Coopers kits. If they didn't Coopers would not be aroumd today.

You are right, I was quick to judge and/or think that the no boils would not be any good.

 

[Tdmar]

Hey Tdmar, welcome to homebrewing.
I don't mean to sound nit-picky here, but I just want to mention that the dextrose added to the wort isn't referred to as priming sugar. Priming sugar is what you add at bottling to make the bubbles.
For future reference, you can prime with regular table sugar if you'd like to save a little money. I've used it a number of times and couldn't detect any flavor difference between sucrose (table sugar), dextrose, and malt extract priming methods.

Some people feel very strongly that you should never boil hopped extract. I'm not one of them, but your beer should be fine as long as you've maintained a reasonably cootie-free environment. Also, it's not uncommon to add sugar to your wort. It adds alcohol and lightens the body (of the beer that is) without changing the flavor, although some sugary fermentables like molasses do affect the flavor.

Don't worry about the hydrometer. You can plug your ingredients into a brewing calculator and as long as you combined the correct amount of water with your fermentables you'll get an accurate original gravity figure. Use the hydrometer later to see if you've hit your expected final gravity. Using the hydrometer for your OG reading is more important when you start mashing your grains, not so much with extract brewing.

The best thing you can do for your IPA once it's in the fermenter is to maintain fermentation temperatures somewhere in the mid 60s (F).
Barring a bacterial infection, I think your beer will be fine. It won't be anything spectacular, but the fact that you made it yourself will make it taste better.
Good luck!

Thanks Gerry, that answer really helps alleviate some anxiety. I know I followed the directions as well as they were written, so I'm sure it will all work out.
Hopefully I was diligent enough with sanitation to keep those cooties out.
I read elsewhere about the importance of maintaining the room temperature during fermentation so I'm keeping it in our bedroom. My wife's real impressed! Lol

 

[Tdmar]

Also seems like not the greatest brew store if they didn't offer much help. You'd think if they could help people make good beer their turnaround would be better.

Not gonna lie, I'll be looking for another shop nearby. Not only were they just not that helpful, but they didn't really seem welcoming to customers coming in the store.
It was kind of bizarre for a retail business! Lol

 

[RWC]

Not gonna lie, I'll be looking for another shop nearby. Not only were they just not that helpful, but they didn't really seem welcoming to customers coming in the store.
It was kind of bizarre for a retail business! Lol

Definitely look elsewhere. Everywhere I've bought from (including online) loves to talk about brewing with people. It's definitely a way to help get repeat customers

 

[Gerry_P]

Thanks Gerry, that answer really helps alleviate some anxiety. I know I followed the directions as well as they were written, so I'm sure it will all work out.
Hopefully I was diligent enough with sanitation to keep those cooties out.
I read elsewhere about the importance of maintaining the room temperature during fermentation so I'm keeping it in our bedroom. My wife's real impressed! Lol

Ha! Glad I could help. While we're on the subject (I apologize if I'm telling you stuff you already know):
Your beer can warm up while it's fermenting so it might be above room temperature (possibly up to 10 degrees warmer in some cases), mostly in the beginning when yeast activity is the most vigorous. Keeping your temps in the 60s for most ale yeasts really does improve your beer significantly.
If you have the space, it's a good idea to put your fermenter into some sort of insulated fermentation chamber. This can be a refrigerator or freezer with a temperature controller attached, a cooler with a couple ice packs, or whatever contraption you can come up with. I have a Cool Brew bag which works well and doesn't put any more of my money into the electric company's pockets. It requires more attention that a freezer/fridge, but it makes me feel like I'm sticking it to The Man so I don't really mind.

 

[Lefou]

When I got my first Coopers kit I put the 2.5gal container to the side and used a 3gal. glass carboy. I like to peek at my brew. I also tossed the supplied yeast packet, added some steeping grain, and used S-05.
I got a nicely carbonated beer - a bit "green" because I opened one or two bottles early, but no real problem. I let the rest of the batch sit and carbonate a total of four whole weeks. For the most part, everything turned out well.

Well enough that I got ahead of myself on my second extract batch and ruined it. Oh well, live and learn.

 

[Lefou]

My local brew store is about 12 miles away in Freehold, NJ.
After going in a few times I learned there's a brewmaster on premises who could answer a few questions - when he wasn't busy. The selection of hardware, malts, and products they carry is above average but if you're an extract brewer, you may have to compromise your plans by ordering online or simply wait for those specific items you really want.
One time they may have Muntons, the next, LD Carlson brands. Since I brew seasonally with cooler weather, it's no big deal. Their prices at the store are competitive, the quality is good and personally, I'd recommend them to anyone doing BYO in or around Ocean or Monmouth County.