Newbie already made a mistake?

[Bagarge]

Hey guys, new here and good to be here!
Just started my first brew kit on an american IPA.

My question is, i foolishly added the boiling water to the malt and for some reason i didnt add cold water after mixing and adding the sugar… i let it cool down before adding the rest of the water.

Will this effect any of my beer?
Thanks guys!

 

[hotbeer]

Since you said malt, many of us are going to assume this a a all-grain beer that you have to mash. Or did you use malt as short for malt extract? Typically we refer to that as just extract.

You'll have beer. So just go do all the other stuff. Keep notes. When it's all over and done with, you'll find out if you have good beer or not.

 

[Bagarge]

Since you said malt, many of us are going to assume this a a all-grain beer that you have to mash. Or did you use malt as short for malt extract? Typically we refer to that as just extract.

Extract, yes sorry my head is swimming with beer making videos.
Its malt extract

 

[mac_1103]

i foolishly added the boiling water to the malt and for some reason i didnt add cold water after mixing and adding the sugar

Sorry, but I'm not sure I follow. What kit did you use and what exactly did you do that deviated from the kit instructions?

 

[Bagarge]

Sorry, but I'm not sure I follow. What kit did you use and what exactly did you do that deviated from the kit instructions?

So it is a youngs brew american ipa kit.

The instructions were to empty the malt extract into the vessel and add 3 litres of boiling water. Stir to dissolve and add the brewing sugar and dissolve. Then top up with cold water to 23litres.

Somehow i ended up at the part it says to wait until below 25degrees before adding the yeast… so i waited.

It was a good hour before I realised i should have added the cold water straight after. So it sat there until it was cool before i added the cold water and the yeast.

 

[hotbeer]

I think your only concern might be if the water you added after the wort cooled is sanitary enough not to have any wild yeast or bacteria in it that might infect your beer and make it taste yeech.

If it was bottled water or distilled water that you added straight from it's original container, then probably less of a risk.

But what's done is done. It isn't worth worrying about. It's just a sanitation risk since you added the water when the wort cooled. It stands a better chance of being a decent beer than it does a infected beer that will taste sour or like nothing you ever want in your mouth again.

 

[mac_1103]

Sounds like a pre-hopped extract kit. The extra hour probably didn't hurt it, especially if it was covered.

 

[Bagarge]

I think your only concern might be if the water you added after the wort cooled is sanitary enough not to have any wild yeast or bacteria in it that might infect your beer and make it taste yeech.

Yes that would make sense. It is spring water from a mountain source

 

[Bagarge]

Sounds like a pre-hopped extract kit. The extra hour probably didn't hurt it, especially if it was covered.

Yes it was covered. Just feel very silly not being able to follow basic instructions…

 

[Bagarge]

Yes it was covered. Just feel very silly not being able to follow basic instructions…

Also i does say to add the hop pellets towards the end of the fermentation

 

[Clint Yeastwood]

You may want to get your water tested to see if there are any mineral problems.

 

[passedpawn]

Extract, yes sorry my head is swimming with beer making videos.
Its malt extract

No worries. Let it cool, add yeast, let it ferment for a couple of weeks, then bottle. Don't open and test every day, though I'm sure you'll be tempted.

Let us know how it turned out.

 

[passedpawn]

You may want to get your water tested to see if there are any mineral problems.

dude, not in beginners brewing

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

dude, not in beginners brewing

Dude, yes - especially in the Beginners Beer Brewing Forum.

Makers of dry/liquid malt extract (professionally) make a wort, then vacuum evaporate it - taking just the water out.

So a "best practice" when brewing with dry/liquid malt extract is to add just the water (no minerals or a known limited amount of minerals /2/) back.

Palmer, in How to Brew, 4e, chapter 1 appears to have put a lot of thought into "poka-yoking" /1/ a brew day process. Water that is known to have "no" or "low" mineral content is part of that process.

If the water does not have a known mineral content ("spring water" is not water with a known mineral content), @Clint Yeastwood offers sound advice.

---

/1/ Poka-yoke is a Japanese term that means "mistake-proofing" or "error prevention".

/2/ there may be an interesting discussion regarding minerals and ppm: for Na, S04, and Cl, what is the threshold that matters? Can one detect a 10 ppm difference? 50? 500?

 

[passedpawn]

I guess we'll have to disagree on how much detail you throw at a new brewer on his first extract brew.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

how much detail you throw at a new brewer on [their] first extract brew

Knowing the mineral content of the water used for brewing isn't "detailed".

In 2023, it comes down to two choices:

1. get the water tested (@Clint Yeastwood suggested this and its @BrewnWKopperKat approved)
2. use RO/distilled water (also @BrewnWKopperKat approved )

 

[Clint Yeastwood]

I got all excited. What can I tell you?

 

[Bagarge]

Thanks guys! Very speedy replies and full of useful knowledge.
I am going to like it here
Will let you all know how it turns out.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Typically we refer to that as just extract.

FWIW, "extract" is a word that has a number of uses in brewing. For example:

 

[hotbeer]

FWIW, "extract" is a word that has a number of uses in brewing. For example:

View attachment 840004

I think that deserves a duh!


Didn't ever say it wasn't used for other purposes or in other ways. It's all about the context of how the word is used.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Referring back to 'Typically we refer to that as just extract.':

One could help establish the context by using "DME", "LME", or "hopped extract" rather than "extract"

 

[hotbeer]

Referring back to 'Typically we refer to that as just extract.':

One could help establish the context by using "DME", "LME", or "hopped extract" rather than "extract"

Well similar to @passedpawn , I don't want to try and make the OP take a sip of water from a fire hose.

All those things can come further on down the road as they get more experiences behind them.

 

[IslandLizard]

It is spring water from a mountain source

Welcome to our forums!
Is that water you "tapped" yourself, at an open well or spring? Or big bottles or jugs you bought, marked "spring water?"
In the latter case, you can ask the supplier for a mineral analysis.

In the former case (self tapped), if you have a TDS meter (they're about $10-15) you can get a decent idea of the total mineral content is, but not the kind of minerals. Water mineral tests are around $40, but limited or even useless when water composition changes with the seasons, or rainfall/snow amounts, etc.

As was mentioned before, using soft water (low mineral content) is recommended for extract brewing.

Just feel very silly not being able to follow basic instructions…

Many instructions are not always that clear, or miss essential details. You'll get better with each brew.
Keep detailed notes, and review before starting a new batch.

 

[MikeinOhio]

I’m chiming in here a bit late, but as to your original question, if your water tastes good, and it doesn’t get anyone sick, then you really should have nothing to worry about.
The other tips here will help your next beer taste even better.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

if your water tastes good, and it doesn’t get anyone sick, then you really should have nothing to worry about.

It's likely that most home brewers have water from a single source that has a low mineral content and doesn't have seasonal variation. If necessary, remove chlorine / chloramines and one is likely "good to go" for either good light colored beers or good dark colored beers (but probably not both without simple adjustments).

But if the beer doesn't turn out well, one of the first things one likely needs to do is understand the source water mineral content.

 

[Bagarge]

Welcome to our forums!
Is that water you "tapped" yourself, at an open well or spring? Or big bottles or jugs you bought, marked "spring water?"
In the latter case, you can ask the supplier for a mineral analysis.

In the former case (self tapped), if you have a TDS meter (they're about $10-15) you can get a decent idea of the total mineral content is, but not the kind of minerals. Water mineral tests are around $40, but limited or even useless when water composition changes with the seasons, or rainfall/snow amounts, etc.

As was mentioned before, using soft water (low mineral content) is recommended for extract brewing.


Many instructions are not always that clear, or miss essential details. You'll get better with each brew.
Keep detailed notes, and review before starting a new batch.

The water is from a mountain cistern that flows into a constant running spring fountain.

It is tested regularly and is considered the best water around. Everyone drinks it and people even travel to fill up there.

 

[Stikius]

I think what people are trying to say is that spring water can contain a lot of minerals that are good for everyday drinking (health + taste), but could result in off flavors when using DME (since the DME already contain those minerals). So what you should aim for is to have as clean water as possible (as close to distilled as you can get).

That being said, the beer won't turn bad just because your water contain minerals. It will, as @MikeinOhio mentioned, only be somewhat better if the water is cleaner. For a first time brew kit I would not recommend to do a water analysis or build a chemistry lab at home since the beer will still be good and you can start improving processes if you think it's fun to brew and decide to keep doing it.
If it's the first time ever you cook dinner you wouldn't go full blown Heston Blumenthal, right? Same goes for beer if you ask me...

 

[IslandLizard]

I saw from your member profile you're located in Portugal.

The water is from a mountain cistern that flows into a constant running spring fountain.

It is tested regularly and is considered the best water around. Everyone drinks it and people even travel to fill up there.

Water that's best for drinking is usually not best for brewing. When brewing lighter color beers we like to use soft water. IOW, having low mineral content.
For many dark beers a higher mineral content is usually fine or acceptable.

Would be nice to have an idea how much various minerals it contains. And how much it fluctuates, if any.
[EDIT] You said that water is regularly tested by someone? You may want to talk to that person, they may know the mineral content and such.
Otherwise, is there a local lab, or a school with a chemistry lab and chem teacher, you can get friendly with?

As @Stikius said, above, for the first brew (or the first few) you can get away with what you have.
Now if you want to get more serious about brewing, you'd like to know.

 

[Bagarge]

I saw from your member profile you're located in Portugal.


Water that's best for drinking is usually not best for brewing. When brewing lighter color beers we like to use soft water. IOW, having low mineral content.
For many dark beers a higher mineral content is usually fine or acceptable.

Would be nice to have an idea how much various minerals it contains. And how much it fluctuates, if any.
[EDIT] You said that water is regularly tested by someone? You may want to talk to that person, they may know the mineral content and such.
Otherwise, is there a local lab, or a school with a chemistry lab and chem teacher, you can get friendly with?

As @Stikius said, above, for the first brew (or the first few) you can get away with what you have.
Now if you want to get more serious about brewing, you'd like to know.

Ok makes alot of sense. There are results of the water testing available i will try to find them at some point.

I want to get serious about brewing, i am using this easy kit as a starter as it was a gift but i plan to jump straight into BIAB as soon as funds allow.

 

[IslandLizard]

I want to get serious about brewing

Then you also want to get serious about the water you use for brewing.

Here's a link to an article written by AJ deLange, one of our very helpful contributors on water chemistry and other things brewing:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/a-brewing-water-chemistry-primer.198460/
That article provides you with the basics of what to look for in good brewing water and how to make it better (more suitable) for the style of beer you're brewing.

i plan to jump straight into BIAB as soon as funds allow.

The Bru'n Water website contains a spreadsheet download (the free version is all you need) and a very informative FAQ link on how to use the spreadsheet. A must read!
The spreadsheet is for water chemistry calculations and predicting mash (and sparge water) pH.
https://www.brunwater.com/