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bassboneman69

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Hi there all. Forgive me if this has been posted before…
Only been brewing for a few years.
Just got a 5 gallon corni keg. My question is:
Is there any benefit to adding any priming sugar to a corni keg?
I do not wish it to cause any damage.
The reason I ask is that in my 2.5 gal corni I felt there was never an adequate level of carbonation in my beers.
I just brewed a Hefeweizen and I don’t want it to suck!
 
You can certainly carbonate in a keg using priming sugar. Just use a priming sugar calculator and set your volume appropriately.

Advantages of natural carbonation are that you avoid any possible impurities introduced by external CO2, you use up oxygen left in the headspace, and you take advantage of actively metabolizing yeast to remove some staling products. Disadvantages include extra time, the need to spend additional time at ambient+ temperatures, and additional solids in the keg.

Generally you're going to need an external tank of CO2 to serve from the keg.
 
You can certainly carbonate in a keg using priming sugar. Just use a priming sugar calculator and set your volume appropriately.

Advantages of natural carbonation are that you avoid any possible impurities introduced by external CO2, you use up oxygen left in the headspace, and you take advantage of actively metabolizing yeast to remove some staling products. Disadvantages include extra time, the need to spend additional time at ambient+ temperatures, and additional solids in the keg.

Generally you're going to need an external tank of CO2 to serve from the keg.
I do have an external CO2 tank.
Was curious if both can be used.
If it is better to just use for carbonation I will do that.
 
It's not like one is right and the other is wrong. @AlexKay laid out the pros and cons above. "Set and forget" force carbonation takes about a week in the cold. Priming takes two to three at ambient temperature.
 
You can prime it. Make sure the lid seals.
Making sure the lid is sealed, that's probably the trickiest part.

This is what I would do:
  1. Presuming the keg is "full," leaving about 1 pint to 1 quart of headspace.
  2. Add the correct amount of your (dissolved) priming sugar for the CO2 volume you want to serve at, and lock the lid.
  3. First purge, then pressurize the keg's headspace with CO2 from your tank to about 15 psi, to set/seal the lid.
  4. Test the lid's seal/perimeter for any leaks (bubbles) around the edges using Starsan, soapy water, or bubble juice.
Put the keg in a 60-66F environment to carb up over 2-3 weeks.

Then place the keg in the kegerator/keezer, but do not connect any lines to the keg yet. Give it 2-3 extra days so the keg is thoroughly cold, and allowing for the pressure/carbonation to stabilize.
Then vent off some of the (extra) pressure by pulling the PRV valve.
Use this calculator to set the gas pressure according to the volumes you want to dispense at:
https://www.hopsteiner.com/psi-calculator/
For example:
for 3 volumes at 36F, you'll need to set the regulator at 15.3 psi.
for 3.5 volumes at 36F, you'll need to set it at 20.3 psi.
Only after you've set the regulator at the corresponding pressure you want, flush the gas line with CO2 (press the poppet in the QD), and connect it to the keg.

To serve at higher pressures (say over 10-12 psi), you'll need longer and/or skinnier beer lines:
http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/
I'd recommend using EVA Barrier lines for both beer and gas, as they have an oxygen barrier, preventing your beer from slowly oxidizing while it sits in your kegerator.
They come in 4, 5 and 8 mm ID. For example:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/evabarriertubing4mm55.htmThat also means you should get the corresponding push-to-connect fittings.

The 4mm ID beer line will give you much of the needed restriction when using the higher serving pressures associated with a beer's higher carbonation levels. Everything needs to be in balance or you'll have much foam and little beer that's halfway decarbonated.
You could use 5mm, to pour faster, but you'll need much longer beer lines.

Of course the gas lines are not affected, they can be as long or short as you see fit. Pun intended!
 
Making sure the lid is sealed, that's probably the trickiest part.

This is what I would do:
Some of us put the priming solution in the keg at the start of fermentation. Seal it and test for leaks, and use fermentation gas to purge it. Then do a closed transfer from the FV to the keg.

The reason I ask is that in my 2.5 gal corni I felt there was never an adequate level of carbonation in my beers.
Maybe this should get a little more attention. How did you carbonate in the past?
 
Some of us put the priming solution in the keg at the start of fermentation. Seal it and test for leaks, and use fermentation gas to purge it. Then do a closed transfer from the FV to the keg.
Absolutely, that's the better method. Thank you for adding that.

Although this thread is posted in our Beginners forum, methods proven to make better beer should be promoted, especially simpler ones that could make a relatively large difference in the end product.
 
D'oh! Maybe I should pay more attention to which forum I'm posting in. OTOH, with everything there is to learn about this hobby, I consider myself a permanent beginner.
 
If you have a keg and you have a CO2 tank, why would you bother with priming sugar? After I transfer my beer to the keg, I simply apply 12 psi of CO2 (or slight adjustments depending on the beer style) to the keg and I end up with perfect carbonation every time. There is no advantage to messing around with priming sugar.

Just a side note, I mostly use two 2.5 gal kegs also because they fit better in my refrigerator. The keg size makes no difference for me.
 
If you have a keg and you have a CO2 tank, why would you bother with priming sugar?
I don't have a keezer or a kegerator. I prime in a 5 gallon keg to carbonate at ambient temperature and bottle from the keg when it's done. This way I only have to tie up fridge space with a keg for a couple of days, and I get clear beer in the bottles.
 
I have a friends who are in our brew club. One is the head brewer at a local brewery and two are chemists. The brewer has told me fhe feels increased keg pressure can affect yeast and the chemists have told me that carbing with priming sugar is way cheaper than using CO2. At around $2 in my area for CO2, I can see where priming would be cheaper. It mainly comes down to how long can you stand to wait to drink your brew.
 
Some of us put the priming solution in the keg at the start of fermentation. Seal it and test for leaks, and use fermentation gas to purge it. Then do a closed transfer from the FV to the keg.


Maybe this should get a little more attention. How did you carbonate in the past?
Do you use a spunding valve or anything to keep pressure at the correct level?
 
Do you use a spunding valve or anything to keep pressure at the correct level?
Nope. The right amount of priming sugar will give the right level of carbonation. Assuming that the beer is finished fermenting before you prime of course. Just like bottle conditioning, but in one 5 gallon bottle instead of 40 pint bottles.
 
I don't have a keezer or a kegerator. I prime in a 5 gallon keg to carbonate at ambient temperature and bottle from the keg when it's done. This way I only have to tie up fridge space with a keg for a couple of days, and I get clear beer in the bottles.
If you have a keg and you have a CO2 tank, why would you bother with priming sugar?
I put priming sugar in my kegs. It’s an easy way to get the next keg in the lineup carbonated while you’re enjoying the one in the cooler. It eliminates having to wait for the next keg to carbonate after one is kicked, especially if you are not too picky about waiting for the next one to cool all the way down. This works great with stout which are best served at 50-55°.
 
If you have a keg and you have a CO2 tank, why would you bother with priming sugar? After I transfer my beer to the keg, I simply apply 12 psi of CO2 (or slight adjustments depending on the beer style) to the keg and I end up with perfect carbonation every time. There is no advantage to messing around with priming sugar.

Just a side note, I mostly use two 2.5 gal kegs also because they fit better in my refrigerator. The keg size makes no difference for me.
For a Hefe would you adjust the PSI up or down?
 
Went with a hybrid approach.
I added priming sugar into 5 gallon keg. There was only 4 gal of Hefeweizen.
It’s quite thin at first taste. Hoping it gets better. I do not have refrigeration for keg either ☹️
 

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