New to brewing and just started kegging.

[IslandLizard]

looks like a nice QD!

They surely are nice QDs! At a price...
The big bonus is the MFL connection is on the side, reducing the space needed above the keg, as with the regular plastic CMB ones.

this is one hell of an introduction!

Thanks! Agreed, this is not an introduction, I moved it to the Bottling/Kegging forum.
@Jebediah this move is totally transparent. Your links to this thread are working just as before. It's just not placed anymore in Introductions.

 

[IslandLizard]

Ok, gotta now what i mean.
I had some of those plastic ones and felt like it would break once you put them on the keg and press down to lock in.
So, I brought these, Just like the plastic one but much stronger and better product. I got it for the gas (grey) and beer lines (Black).
https://www.kegland.com.au/machined-stainless-ball-lock-disconnect-mfl-threaded-grey-gas.html

Stronger...?

I've been using the plastic QDs (branded CMB - CM Becker) for 7 years, since I started kegging, never had or seen an issue... Except the one time I forcefully broke one, an unbranded "generic" QD, probably from China. It was totally my fault, and it took a lot of effort. A real lot!
I had jammed that black liquid QD onto a gas post, in a moment of desperation. That was a very bad move. It only took a little extra effort to get it on, and worked fine for the job. Trying to get it off became a whole different story... Significant force and tools were needed to pry it off, little by little, wiggling, pulling, prying. In the process the locking collar separated, rendering the QD useless for future use. I keep it in my tool box as a reminder.

Lesson learned, I should have first screwed a (spare) liquid post onto the gas stub...

 

[Jebediah]

Stronger...?

I've been using the plastic QDs (branded CMB - CM Becker) for 7 years, since I started kegging, never had or seen an issue... Except the one time I forcefully broke one, an unbranded "generic" QD, probably from China. It was totally my fault, and it took a lot of effort. A real lot!
I had jammed that black liquid QD onto a gas post, in a moment of desperation. That was a very bad move. It only took a little extra effort to get it on, and worked fine for the job. Trying to get it off became a whole different story... Significant force and tools were needed to pry it off, little by little, wiggling, pulling, prying. In the process the locking collar separated, rendering the QD useless for future use. I keep it in my tool box as a reminder.

Lesson learned, I should have first screwed a (spare) liquid post onto the gas stub...

I maybe went over board on saying its stronger, these metal QDs just feel a better quality when using them than the plastic QDs. Maybe its a personal opinion.

 

[IslandLizard]

I maybe went over board on saying its stronger, these metal QDs just feel a better quality when using them than the plastic QDs. Maybe its a personal opinion.

It was all meant in jest.
I was surprised how much effort it took to destroy a plastic one. I couldn't imagine anyone needing something even stronger, tougher.

I'm sure your connectors look and feel much more substantial than the plastic ones. From their looks, they're built like little tanks!
The side connection alone beats the angled-up ones on the plastic connectors, which is crucial when headspace is an issue.

That angled-up connection using a stiff line like Bev Seal Ultra 235 is a space hog and a royal PITA to deal with most of the time. Especially in a tight space.

 

[Jebediah]

I'm sure they look and feel more substantial than the plastic ones. The side connection beats the angled one on the plastic connectors if headspace is an issue.

I have no issue putting the metal QDs onto the kegs in the kegerator. That is a plus.

 

[Jebediah]

Trying to find the EVA Barrier 3/16.
Only found the EVABarrier 4mm(5/32) x 8mm(5/16) Double Wall EVA, EVABarrier 5mm(13/64) x 8mm(5/16) Double Wall EVA and the EVABarrier 6mm(15/64) x 9.5mm(3/8) Double Wall EVA.
I've seen red EVA barrier for the gas, are they any good? or stick with the clear tubing for the gas lines?

 

[day_trippr]

I went with 4mm ID for beer lines and 5mm ID for all of the gas lines in my brewery. Push-to-Connects everywhere save for a 6 way barbed manifold.
I don't see a need for colored gas lines; they're going to end at a gas QD anyway so they're already easily recognizable
Upside of the 4mm ID beer line is I only needed 6 feet of it for each faucet instead of the 12 feet I ran with 3/16" Bevlex 200 solid pvc...

Cheers!

 

[Jebediah]

I went with 4mm ID for beer lines and 5mm ID for all of the gas lines in my brewery. Push-to-Connects everywhere save for a 6 way barbed manifold.
I don't see a need for colored gas lines; they're going to end at a gas QD anyway so they're already easily recognizable
Upside of the 4mm ID beer line is I only needed 6 feet of it for each faucet instead of the 12 feet I ran with 3/16" Bevlex 200 solid pvc...

Cheers!

With the 4mm beer lines, you didn't have any issues with foamy beer etc?

 

[day_trippr]

Zero issues, the pours are indistinguishable, flow at roughly an ounce per second, and fully and smoothly fill the faucet spouts so there's almost no turbulence evident. Keeps the CO2 in the beer

That's simply a matter of length tuning (reference the only beer line length calculator worth using). And 5mm is actually a bit wider bore than 3/16" so even discounting what may be a more slippery liner than pvc I would expect the need to use roughly a foot of 5mm ID tubing per psi. With the 4mm I used literally half that.

The barrier, though, made the conversion all hugely worthwhile. Where the ~two ounces of beer sitting in the solid pvc overnight clearly lost some luster due to oxidation, that doesn't happen with this tubing. And while my walk-up traffic has been pretty nearly zeroed through the pandemic, that's more important than ever...

Cheers!

 

[Jebediah]

Zero issues, the pours are indistinguishable, flow at roughly an ounce per second, and fully and smoothly fill the faucet spouts so there's almost no turbulence evident. Keeps the CO2 in the beer

That's simply a matter of length tuning (reference the only beer line length calculator worth using). And 5mm is actually a bit wider bore than 3/16" so even discounting what may be a more slippery liner than pvc I would expect the need to use roughly a foot of 5mm ID tubing per psi. With the 4mm I used literally half that.

The barrier, though, made the conversion all hugely worthwhile. Where the ~two ounces of beer sitting in the solid pvc overnight clearly lost some luster due to oxidation, that doesn't happen with this tubing. And while my walk-up traffic has been pretty nearly zeroed through the pandemic, that's more important than ever...

Cheers!
[/QU
Thanks for your help mate.
I'll try and order some EVA barrier today and with the measurements you given me.

Cheers,

 

[Knightshade]

I went with 4mm ID for beer lines and 5mm ID for all of the gas lines in my brewery. Push-to-Connects everywhere save for a 6 way barbed manifold.
I don't see a need for colored gas lines; they're going to end at a gas QD anyway so they're already easily recognizable
Upside of the 4mm ID beer line is I only needed 6 feet of it for each faucet instead of the 12 feet I ran with 3/16" Bevlex 200 solid pvc...

Cheers!

Exactly this w/my setup. I followed the advice of a YouTube'r setting up the same kegerator that I have where he mentioning toying w/the idea of going to 2 meters, even though 1.5 had been working fine for him. The idea that going longer won't hurt much...shorter is a little more painful. Pour is a little bit slow with 15 PSI, but it is also pretty damn good so I'm hesitant to change it.

 

[Knightshade]

Ooops...13 PSI, 23 seconds to pour a pint. Just timed it. I don't mind too much though, I'm usually rushing w/everything else going on. Gives me time to look around, talk to my dog, etc.

 

[Jebediah]

Ooops...13 PSI, 23 seconds to pour a pint. Just timed it. I don't mind too much though, I'm usually rushing w/everything else going on. Gives me time to look around, talk to my dog, etc.

Hahaha, then 8 foot would be best for 4mm beer lines and 1.5m of 5mm for gas lines?

 

[day_trippr]

Two meters of 4mm and 23 second pints? Strange.
My favorite glass is good for a bit over 12 ounces which takes just 12 seconds with 6' of 4mm ID - and a flow meter in each run - dispensing mostly at 12 psi indicated (likely 11 psi at the keg after check valve losses). This is a keezer so there's a couple of feet of rise from the middle of the kegs up and through the t-tower but that shouldn't make much difference.

Anyway, length doesn't matter for gas. And I only used the 5mm there because of an existing 6-way manifold in my keezer and a barbed beer gas regulator output that I didn't want to pay to replace or refit with mfl version terminations, otherwise I'd have used the same 4mm ID tubing as the beer lines...

Cheers!

 

[Knightshade]

My 5mm gas lines are 1.5m, and yes I'm glad that they're as long as they are. Any shorter, and I would have definitely been in trouble w/my setup. I'm routing 1.5m from the back of the kegerator via inline secondary regulators into the keg itself. I color coded the regs w/zipties so I could track them back to the appropriate gas/liquid lines inside.

 

[Jebediah]

I know the length for the gas lines

My 5mm gas lines are 1.5m, and yes I'm glad that they're as long as they are. Any shorter, and I would have definitely been in trouble w/my setup. I'm routing 1.5m from the back of the kegerator via inline secondary regulators into the keg itself. I color coded the regs w/zipties so I could track them back to the appropriate gas/liquid lines inside.

Just the matter of the length of the beer line is most important.

Wow, nice set up mate.

 

[Knightshade]

I know the length for the gas lines

Just the matter of the length of the beer line is most important.

Wow, nice set up mate.

It would be a lot uglier if my friend hadn't convinced (told) me to paint the plywood black to match the kegerator.

So far I really like the setup. I've got a commercial IPA on one at 13, my HB stout carb'ing at 6, 2 are unfortunately empty right now but I've got 2 small batches fermenting so that should be remedied soon and a spare to force carb, co2 transfer, etc.

 

[Jebediah]

Nice, Im thinking of brewing this weekend, a stout. I got the recipe from a guy who owned or a manager from a brewing company in Melbourne. I met the guy at a beer festival. (cant remember much that he told me but, I was very drunk hahaha.)

 

[Gozie Boy]

Ok, gotta now what i mean.
I had some of those plastic ones and felt like it would break once you put them on the keg and press down to lock in.
So, I brought these, Just like the plastic one but much stronger and better product. I got it for the gas (grey) and beer lines (Black).
https://www.kegland.com.au/machined-stainless-ball-lock-disconnect-mfl-threaded-grey-gas.html

I've had both the SS DCs and the plastic ones, and after a few years of using both I find myself greatly preferring the plastic ones (with male flare, not barb). They are lighter, much cheaper and (IMO) easier to connect than the heavy SS ones. The ones by CM Becker have a great reputation, and if you're worried about durability (and I've never had one fail), keep in mind that you can buy about 4.5 of these for every SS one...

 

[Knightshade]

Two meters of 4mm and 23 second pints? Strange.
My favorite glass is good for a bit over 12 ounces which takes just 12 seconds with 6' of 4mm ID - and a flow meter in each run - dispensing mostly at 12 psi indicated (likely 11 psi at the keg after check valve losses). This is a keezer so there's a couple of feet of rise from the middle of the kegs up and through the t-tower but that shouldn't make much difference.

Anyway, length doesn't matter for gas. And I only used the 5mm there because of an existing 6-way manifold in my keezer and a barbed beer gas regulator output that I didn't want to pay to replace or refit with mfl version terminations, otherwise I'd have used the same 4mm ID tubing as the beer lines...

Cheers!

Yeah..for now I've convinced myself that I don't mind. That might change at some point. Indicated..20 at the main, 13 at the secondary, but perhaps it is a bit lower due to the inline check valve?

 

[day_trippr]

I've found the typical spring-loaded check valves require ~1/2 psi to open. As my primary CO2 regulator has a check and the manifold has check valves on all of its shut-offs I'm pretty sure the keg pressures on that manifold are a full psi below the indicated pressure at the regulator.

When I put together my cold-crashing CO2 system I had to remove the check valves from the manifolds in my ferm chambers because I drive that system with a fixed ~0.4 psi regulator and that wasn't enough pressure to force open the checks

Cheers!