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New England Esque IPA

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Hell yeah, Andrew! Rad. What hops did you use?

Next time you are heading to VT hit me up and maybe we can share a beer at HF again. I will bring some homebrews :).
Bittered with Simcoe, late hop and whirlpool with equal parts 2015 Mosaic and new harvest Nelson Sauvin. Dry hopped with equal parts Mosaic and Nelson too.

Next time I come I'll pack some bottles! This was all kegged - played a bit fast and loose with it, kegged on a Monday, the high-pressure/agitate method, served on Saturday - but it's definitely being brewed again. It's a great jump off point for brewing soft, juicy IPA.
 
Hey guys,

First attempt at brewing beer was a NE IPA, dryhopped it today. Plan on kegging some too. If you dryhop with a decent amount of hops, would it be recommended to dryhop a second time in the keg?

Murky pics incoming!

Cheers!
 
Hey guys,

First attempt at brewing beer was a NE IPA, dryhopped it today. Plan on kegging some too. If you dryhop with a decent amount of hops, would it be recommended to dryhop a second time in the keg?

Murky pics incoming!

Cheers!

A lot of people do.

I used 1272 on this last batch. Loral seems to be fairly lemon-lime in large quantities.
 
So this may warrant a very RDWHAHB response for a first post, but I've got a couple questions here. About a week and a half ago I brewed a 3.5 gallon batch and am finishing putting together my kegging setup this afternoon. Aiming to get the beer in the keg via closed transfer in the next couple days and hopefully have it ready to serve by next weekend. It's my third all grain batch so I'm definitely a beginner, but I used distilled and treated it, fermented under temperature control, and in general was more careful this time than my first attempts, so so far I think it's on track to be good.

I used the following hop schedule:

60 min: .25 oz Warrior
5 min: .5 oz Columbus
Flameout/Hop steep for 20 min: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo
Dry hop at high krausen: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo

So, 1 - do I have enough hops in there yet? Ideally it'd be in the Zombie Dust/Fort Point Pale Ale ballpark rather than "DDH" ballpark.

2 - if not, am I more at risk of oxidation opening the lid to dry hop more now, or in keg hopping (which would make it so I can't water/starsan purge the keg before transfer)? Fwiw it's in a 5 gallon big mouth bubbler so there's nearly 2 gallons of headspace right now - I'm assuming this makes opening the lid a little/lot worse than it would be if I were full.

3 - Do I need to cold crash at some point and am I better off doing that now or when it's in the keg?

Last thing, I'm going to have to open the lid anyways at some point to set up the closed transfer, as I just got the dual port lid in the mail yesterday. I figure that's less of a big deal if I'm transferring right after the exchange, rather than today when it'd be sitting in the fermenter for at least another 48 hours after.
 
So this may warrant a very RDWHAHB response for a first post, but I've got a couple questions here. About a week and a half ago I brewed a 3.5 gallon batch and am finishing putting together my kegging setup this afternoon. Aiming to get the beer in the keg via closed transfer in the next couple days and hopefully have it ready to serve by next weekend. It's my third all grain batch so I'm definitely a beginner, but I used distilled and treated it, fermented under temperature control, and in general was more careful this time than my first attempts, so so far I think it's on track to be good.

I used the following hop schedule:

60 min: .25 oz Warrior
5 min: .5 oz Columbus
Flameout/Hop steep for 20 min: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo
Dry hop at high krausen: 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Amarillo

So, 1 - do I have enough hops in there yet? Ideally it'd be in the Zombie Dust/Fort Point Pale Ale ballpark rather than "DDH" ballpark.

2 - if not, am I more at risk of oxidation opening the lid to dry hop more now, or in keg hopping (which would make it so I can't water/starsan purge the keg before transfer)? Fwiw it's in a 5 gallon big mouth bubbler so there's nearly 2 gallons of headspace right now - I'm assuming this makes opening the lid a little/lot worse than it would be if I were full.

3 - Do I need to cold crash at some point and am I better off doing that now or when it's in the keg?

Last thing, I'm going to have to open the lid anyways at some point to set up the closed transfer, as I just got the dual port lid in the mail yesterday. I figure that's less of a big deal if I'm transferring right after the exchange, rather than today when it'd be sitting in the fermenter for at least another 48 hours after.

Seems like enough hops to me. Only way to really find out, is to keg it and try.

Ive never worried about oxidation from opening the lid on the fermenter. The transfer is where oxidation can happen. If you are doing a closed transfer with co2, then you really have nothing to worry about.

Rdwhahab
 
It's probably enough hops. I would keg and sample once it's carbonated. If you feel like it needs more then open the keg and add more hops.
 
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Despite the foam, seems a little undercarbed. Color looks better in real life. This is....not bad at all. Getting a ton of the amarillo, and I think the late Columbus helped a bit it keeping it properly bitter. Looking forward to seeing how it tastes in a couple days when it's properly carbed and less green. This thread was super helpful, definitely pretty confident about making batch 3 in a couple weeks, gonna mess with the grain bill a little and add galaxy and motueka to the hop bill. Really excited to see where I can get this stuff to with a few more attempts.
 
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I ended up brewing a 10 gallon batch of NE pale for the 4th of July. I subbed out my go-to base malt of Golden Promise, opting for 2-row. The rest of the bill is white wheat, a very minimal amount of c20 for slight color, flaked oats for head retention, and 1lb of sugar added at flameout. The hop schedule for the 60 minute boil was: 1oz Southern Cross @ 60, 2oz Galaxy @ 5, 3oz Galaxy at flameout, 3oz Galaxy dryhop at first sign of vigorous active fermentation (5 days), 3oz Galaxy dryhop at kegging (5 days then counter pressure transfer into serving keg). The last few batches of IPA I had used the Vermont Ale strain by TYB, but I ended up going with 1318 this time and it confirmed my overall preference for using it for this style. The RO water I brew with was treated with 2:1 gypsum/calcium chloride... the night after brewing this I ended up stumbling on Scott Janish's post about mouthfeel and I wish I would have treated my water inversely, but now I have something fun to test out. Overall I'm very happy with how it turned out; The carbonation level was just how I wanted it, limited bitterness/highly aromatic, and it was crushable. Next time I brew something similar I would add a little bit more c20 and I would like to try it with a higher calcium chloride ratio.
 
Ziggy and I plan to brew a batch next weekend. Looking at a Sulfate:chloride level of about 0.8 (sulfate 82 : chloride 107). How does that compare to what everyone else does?
 
I've had most success right around 120 Cl to 60 SO4. So despite not really liking looking at Cl:SO4 ratios as opposed to actual ppm, exactly what he said ^ :p
 
I like to brew one every once in a while, but like JCastle said, there are plenty of other styles I prefer. Plus they're expensive as **** to brew.
Super expensive. Outside the US I'm paying up to $70/lb for some of these hops (particularly Galaxy, Nelson, Enigma... Mosaic and Citra are closer to $40). At 2-3 lbs/BBL for dryhop I'm looking at some crazy expensive beer.
 
I've discovered the secret to the hazebro is a 30 minute boil, leaving behind polyphenols and fermenting on the upper end between 68-72 degrees to avoid diacetyl. No need for raw grains in the grain bill. It's all polyphenols...and of course utilizing myrcene/humulene steeps.
 
I've discovered the secret to the hazebro is a 30 minute boil, leaving behind polyphenols and fermenting on the upper end between 68-72 degrees to avoid diacetyl. No need for raw grains in the grain bill. It's all polyphenols...and of course utilizing myrcene/humulene steeps.

And here I thought the secret to hazebro was canning it and trying to trade it for lambic.
 

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