New Electric Keggle Help

[whitescout]

I would put your dp switches on the other side of the terminal. i would have them control power to the element/ssr. The way it is drawn now, if you turn the switch off, you lose power to the pid, and outlets. ( If i understand your diagram)

 

[zinger084]

I would put your dp switches on the other side of the terminal. i would have them control power to the element/ssr. The way it is drawn now, if you turn the switch off, you lose power to the pid, and outlets. ( If i understand your diagram)

Yes, that is correct. I was using it as a main power shut down. Should I be using it the way you state so that I can still have power to my SP switches for the GFCI outlets, but kill the element power leg?

Would it be beneficial to put two DP/DT switches on there... one where shown, and the other where you mention? I would like to be able to have a master kill switch on there, but not sure what its doing right now besides mimicking pulling the plug out of the wall...

Also, do you see the need for anymore fuses? Are the fuse sizes/type correct?

 

[whitescout]

I am by no means an expert, ( I am putting my first electric together now),but I really don't think you need switches to cut all power in. Just like you said, it is just like unplugging the wires from the outlet. I would suggest putting a dp switch to cut power to the SSR and element. Then, you still have use of the PID. You can use the PID to display temp as you are cooling.

I do not think you need any more fuses, as a matter of fact, IMHO, I do not think you need the 30 amp fuses. The 30 amp breaker should suffice.

 

[zinger084]

I am by no means an expert, ( I am putting my first electric together now),but I really don't think you need switches to cut all power in. Just like you said, it is just like unplugging the wires from the outlet. I would suggest putting a dp switch to cut power to the SSR and element. Then, you still have use of the PID. You can use the PID to display temp as you are cooling.

I do not think you need any more fuses, as a matter of fact, IMHO, I do not think you need the 30 amp fuses. The 30 amp breaker should suffice.

I think I will use the DP/DT switch like you mention to cut power to the SSR and Element. That way I can still keep the PID for temp during cooling and use the 120V GFCIs.

 

[zinger084]

Ok, I have this thing wired up and powered up Saturday. I think that the PID still needs setup though. When the set temp was lower than the reading temp, it was sending current to the element. Is there something I am missing? Is there a general setup that everyone does (manual to auto, percentage, etc... no clue)?

 

[The Pol]

Ok, I have this thing wired up and powered up Saturday. I think that the PID still needs setup though. When the set temp was lower than the reading temp, it was sending current to the element. Is there something I am missing? Is there a general setup that everyone does (manual to auto, percentage, etc... no clue)?

Where did you buy it? Have a manual? There is some setup involved.

 

[zinger084]

I bought it from Auber. I am not 100% up on the electronics portion of things, and I briefly read through the manual. Is there a few pointers you might have?

 

[The Pol]

Well, if you are getting an output when your PV is HIGHER than your SV, then you must be in manual mode (% output).

I will have to look, my PID settings are posted here on HBT somewhere... let me look for them. Yooper has my old rig now so I cant go look them up.

EDIT: I cant find the post, it was a response to someone elses thread about 6 months ago...

You need to determine if you are in MANUAL mode or AUTO mode. I sold my manual with my rig as well, so I am of little help.

 

[zinger084]

Any chance this will jog your memory?

http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual%20version%203.4.pdf

I'll take a look at it here tonight and see what I can come up with.

 

[The Pol]

For your PID to be sending an output, when your SV is lower than your PV, you have to be in manual mode.

Are you comfortable with alternating between manual and auto modes?

 

[zinger084]

From what it appears in the instructions, manual mode is automatically defaulted as "off" since most users won't use it. I don't see why I need it since I will be using this to either heat my sparge water, or be boiling. What is the advantage of manual mode?

Also, do I need to reverse the default operation of the PID to reverse action control the COOL mode to be in heating (6.14)?

 

[The Pol]

From what it appears in the instructions, manual mode is automatically defaulted as "off" since most users won't use it. I don't see why I need it since I will be using this to either heat my sparge water, or be boiling. What is the advantage of manual mode?

Also, do I need to reverse the default operation of the PID to reverse action control the COOL mode to be in heating (6.14)?

You will need manual mode for boiling, there is no other way. You need to enable manual mode.

You will need to be sure that the PID is set for heating, I was sure mine was out of the box....

 

[zinger084]

Can you just set the temp point at 212 and let it constantly be ON in AUTO mode to try and reach that temp with the element constantly on?

I am going to try and set this up tonight. Thinking about putting an external light bulb/LED on the box showing when the SSR is sending current to the element...

 

[The Pol]

Can you just set the temp point at 212 and let it constantly be ON in AUTO mode to try and reach that temp with the element constantly on?

I am going to try and set this up tonight. Thinking about putting an external light bulb/LED on the box showing when the SSR is sending current to the element...

Your PID has a light that tells you when the element is heating.

You cant boil by simply inputting a temp like 212.

It will either bew full on, or not boiling at all.

You will see when you try it, manual mode is necessary