New eBIAB Rig Takes Shape!

[daveMN]

daveMN... I just did some searching on the forms for this... it is controversial for sure! From what I read, it works but some say it is not proper to trip the GFCI in this manner. Is there a simple re-wire that accomplishes the same thing - i.e. kills all power to the control head?

I'm not an electrician so pictures please!

Thanks!
Don
Primary: nothing
Secondary: nothing
Bottled: Oatmeal Stout, APA and Rye IPA
(Only 2 cases of homebrew left...gotta get this rig up and running!)

Do you have a diagram of your panel wiring? I just have a switch to my element instead of an E-stop. I don't have my pump wired into the panel yet. You could just eliminate the E-stop if you have a switch to the element.
Here's a pic of the inside of my panel. I have a DPST switch to my element. I bought it from Auberins.com. this one is an illuminated switch.

 

[daveMN]

The picture didn't attach for some reason. Here's the panel and the switch.

View attachment 1466946593055.jpg

View attachment 1466946635381.jpg

 

[nobadays]

daveMN... It doesn't look like you are using a contactor to energize the element. Your switch is rated for 10A how is that going to work?

Yes I do have a switch to turn the element on or off. The schematic I used is in this post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=584489 (I got schooled on electrical theory where an element/resistor is in the loop.)

I appreciate your concern for my E-Stop wiring - to ground...I really do. This E-Stop design has been used by many folks on this forum without incident to my knowledge. If you look at the schematic you will see 2 - 1K/1watt resistors between the E-Stop and ground. These will reduce the amperage going to ground to about 0.06 amps (if the calculator I used is correct and I think it is.) So even though it is wired to ground the chance of ill effects from this is kept to a minimum. I think P-J intentionally wanted to only send enough amperage through to trip the GFCI... not enough to cause damage or shock.

A search of the forums showed that when P-J was questioned, he said it was intentional so that ALL power is cut off to the control panel... not just power to the element.

Thanks again!

Don
Primary: nothing
Secondary: nothing
Bottled: Oatmeal Stout, APA and Rye IPA
(Less than 2 cases of homebrew left...gotta get this rig up and running!)

 

[nobadays]

Well fired up the rig again today to take another stab at the auto tune. Set my target temp at 154, turned on the element then right away put it into auto tune mode. Went for 1 hour and 3 minutes before the AT/temperature quit flashing. I have let it go now for another 30 minutes and is doing great holding the temp. The element will kick on and briefly it will hit 155 then within a minute or two it is back to 154. I have the recirculation going open about 1/3rd which is what I expect to run at when mashing.

Only issue is the PID temp and my digital and kettle gauges don't agree. The kettle gauge is maybe .3 degrees hotter than the digital but the PID is running 1.5ish cooler. I had went the wrong direction when I calibrated it before so after the auto tune was done I reset the calibration up 2 degrees. Hasn't seemed to affect it. Will the PID have to be turned off and back on before the adjustment takes affect?

Thanks.
Don

 

[nobadays]

Well right or wrong I think I answered this question -

I reset the calibration up 2 degrees. Hasn't seemed to affect it. Will the PID have to be turned off and back on before the adjustment takes affect?

I turned off the PID/element after it had maintained mash temp for 30 minutes then ran the water through my CF chiller , whirl-pooling it until the kettle reached about 95 degrees. Turned the PID back on and let it bring the water back up to mash temp... this time it was nearly spot on! Maybe .3 - .6 degrees cooler than the water in the kettle read on the digital thermometer. Close enough!

After holding mash temp for 20 minutes I switched to manual @ 100% and brought the kettle to a boil (I had 7 gallons in it) took approx 10 minutes - impressed! That usually took 20 minutes with my 40,000btu burner. After reaching a boil I re-set the PID to 65% of power and let it cycle on and off for another 10 minutes.

I'm really impressed with this electric kettle rig! Gonna brew Friday so we will see how it goes with wort in there.

That brings up a question... since I tuned the PID to regular water, what can I expect with wort/mashing as far as holding my intended temps? I know from experience that my CF chiller with approximately the same flows - wort and cooling water - will chill tap water 6-10 degrees cooler than wort with one pass.

Thanks! I value this forum!!
Don
Primary: nothing
Secondary: nothing
Bottled: Oatmeal Stout, APA and Rye IPA
(Less than 2 cases of homebrew left...gotta get this rig up and running!)

 

[daveMN]

daveMN... It doesn't look like you are using a contactor to energize the element. Your switch is rated for 10A how is that going to work?

Yes I do have a switch to turn the element on or off. The schematic I used is in this post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=584489 (I got schooled on electrical theory where an element/resistor is in the loop.)

I appreciate your concern for my E-Stop wiring - to ground...I really do. This E-Stop design has been used by many folks on this forum without incident to my knowledge. If you look at the schematic you will see 2 - 1K/1watt resistors between the E-Stop and ground. These will reduce the amperage going to ground to about 0.06 amps (if the calculator I used is correct and I think it is.) So even though it is wired to ground the chance of ill effects from this is kept to a minimum. I think P-J intentionally wanted to only send enough amperage through to trip the GFCI... not enough to cause damage or shock.

A search of the forums showed that when P-J was questioned, he said it was intentional so that ALL power is cut off to the control panel... not just power to the element.

You are correct regarding my element switch. No contactor, at least, not yet... I found out the hard way that the 10A switch didn't work out so well on yesterday's brew day.
Back to the drawing board.

From what I read, the E-stop to ground isn't technically how an industrial control would be wired but, like you said, people do it. Just be sure to test it before brew day. Looks like you're getting close!