DIY 120v eBIAB Controller Help

CornyKegs 728
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The element firing light being continuously lit and the low reading of the voltage at the element outlet are both due to the low level leakage typical of SSR's. The controller won't actually turn on the SSR without a temp probe installed (it's a fail safe feature to prevent runaway if the temp sensor fails.) So, nothing to worry about with the behavior so far.

Brew on :mug:
 
doug293cz said:
The element firing light being continuously lit and the low reading of the voltage at the element outlet are both due to the low level leakage typical of SSR's. The controller won't actually turn on the SSR without a temp probe installed (it's a fail safe feature to prevent runaway if the temp sensor fails.) So, nothing to worry about with the behavior so far.

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...
I knew you'd have an answer for me, Doug. As always, thank you brother.
 
Looks great @enormous13! looks Damn near perfect! I dig the switches, lights look great, and nice that you had room for the connectors in back.

You've got a little extra wire, might be worth re-crimping that bottom right connector so you don't have the copper exposed.
 
BeardedBrews said:
Also, you could switch over and use the smaller PowerCon connections if you were still planning to have dis-connectable power cords:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAROGSU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Click to expand...

@BeardedBrews, those powerCON connectors look slick, but would they work for 120V/20A? Would you mind commenting on this, please?

While the Neutrik NAC3FA (blue) connector says it is rated for 20A, it can only accept wire up to 14AWG, and as I understand it I would need 12AWG in open air (or downrate it if bundled or enclosed):
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-20-a/nac3fca

The Neutrik NAC3FX-W accepts 12AWG wire size, but it says its only rated to 16A (but USA 20A). This seems contradictory, and why is the US natl. electric code looser?
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/nac3fx-w

And the Neutrik NAC3FC-HC definitely looks like it can handle 32A, but would I be able to hook up only one 120V "hot" line and neutral (and ground) and have the connector work properly? Is this overkill?
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-32-a/nac3fc-hc

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on these perplexing (to me) technical specs.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
BeardedBrews said:
Looks great @enormous13! looks Damn near perfect! I dig the switches, lights look great, and nice that you had room for the connectors in back.

You've got a little extra wire, might be worth re-crimping that bottom right connector so you don't have the copper exposed.
Click to expand...
Thanks man, I didn't have any insulated 12ga ground wire on hand, but I was thinking I should do that.

Just waiting for the temp probe to arrive from Auber this afternoon and hopefully I can run it through a wet test this weekend.
 
Chino_Brews said:
@BeardedBrews, those powerCON connectors look slick, but would they work for 120V/20A? Would you mind commenting on this, please?

While the Neutrik NAC3FA (blue) connector says it is rated for 20A, it can only accept wire up to 14AWG

And the Neutrik NAC3FC-HC definitely looks like it can handle 32A, but would I be able to hook up only one 120V "hot" line and neutral (and ground) and have the connector work properly? Is this overkill?
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-32-a/nac3fc-hc

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on these perplexing (to me) technical specs.
Click to expand...

My experience on those connectors is limited, beyond saying that I know they are often used (including the 20A) for brewery loads. There is speculation that the connectors are listed below their actual capability but testing that theory is a personal decision that shouldn't be trusted to a guy on a forum :D

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...brewery-controller.492406/page-4#post-7084299

Hosehead was using these connectors for a while on their controllers, but have since moved away. I speculate they changed for cost, not performance, but who knows.

There are folks with posted builds that use these for their elements who might be a good source for conversation on them.

https://leaningman.com/2017/10/the-brewery/

My position is that I haven't heard of negative results from a home brew user, and I admit that I am not using them myself (primarily because of cost, but also because I don't have a need for that type of power connection).
 
If you want 20amp you need to use 12 gauge wire to be on the safe side. You can use the 240v NEMA three prong twist lock receptacle with 120v. They are rated for 240v 30amps. I am using that but I am on a 240v system.
 
Chino_Brews said:
@BeardedBrews, those powerCON connectors look slick, but would they work for 120V/20A? Would you mind commenting on this, please?

While the Neutrik NAC3FA (blue) connector says it is rated for 20A, it can only accept wire up to 14AWG, and as I understand it I would need 12AWG in open air (or downrate it if bundled or enclosed):
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-20-a/nac3fca

The Neutrik NAC3FX-W accepts 12AWG wire size, but it says its only rated to 16A (but USA 20A). This seems contradictory, and why is the US natl. electric code looser?
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/nac3fx-w

And the Neutrik NAC3FC-HC definitely looks like it can handle 32A, but would I be able to hook up only one 120V "hot" line and neutral (and ground) and have the connector work properly? Is this overkill?
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-32-a/nac3fc-hc

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on these perplexing (to me) technical specs.
Click to expand...
Chino, I was able to get an answer from Neutrik advising they are rated for 120v/20a service. This site (http://powerconcables.com/powercon-connectors-a-better-way-to-move-electricity/) also references their capacity, stating, "These connectors are rated at 20 amps (120V)". Another answer from this site (https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nac3mpa-1-powercon-chassis-connector-power-in-blue--092-284) states, "20amps at 250v or 120v".

I'm only using the blue/grey connectors, so I can only speak on those, but they're handling loads traveling over the 12awg wire fine so far.
 
First wet test done.
FSVw2Ul.jpg

No pump or other hardware yet, just running the element off the probe, but the thing performed very well. There's a little learning curve with the EZboil, but reading through the instructions a few times answers most things. I since finalized and closed up the enclosure, and I'll be working on installing the bulkhead/hardware on the kettle next, then running a wet test with the pump and the whole system.
 
And here's the wet test with the element and pump up and running, bulkhead and ball valve installed on the kettle:
zFXHeGi.jpg

I ran the system up to mash temps, recirculating the whole time. No drips or leaks, and everything went smoothly. That MKII pump is so ridiculously quiet, I didn't realize it was on when I first flipped it's switch.

@BeardedBrews @doug293cz couldn't have gotten this far without you guys, thank you again. Thank you to everyone else that gave input along the way of this thread/build, especially Kevin over at smallspacebrewer.com (formerly stainlessbrewer).

Next steps for me are going to be brewing some beer! I've got a cheap extract kit headed my way sometime this week that I'll use as a first batch/test kit. I'll be keeping an eye on scorching mostly, and we'll see how the entire process goes considering I haven't brewed in quite a few years.

Does anyone know of how to create some nice, little tags/name plates/identifiers, like these (https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_35&products_id=566) for a controller? I wouldn't mind labeling the outlets, switches, etc.
 
One of these recent build threads linked a laser cutting guy that made them x can't remember where.

Etsy is always a good place to start
 
I ended up finding a few options. The lazerworx address above offers industrial engraved options, but their site doesn't have anywhere to design and order easily. But, it lead me to some other good options.

I found these guys (http://engravedlabel.com/index.php) who offer the same industrial-look, engraved plastic labels, customized however you want, for a couple bucks each.

Then, I found that Bobby has some vinyl controller decals in sheet form (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/decalcontrolstock.htm) for like $8.

Guess it comes down to do I want plastic, beveled labels or some slick, vinyl lettering?
 
You might want to use masking tape and a sharpie for a few brews and just make sure you don't want to change up the switch positions before you invest too much in the labels :)
 
BeardedBrews said:
You might want to use masking tape and a sharpie for a few brews and just make sure you don't want to change up the switch positions before you invest too much in the labels :)
Click to expand...
Good point...I won't be messing with the rear of the controller with all the power inputs/outputs, but I may get another face plate from Auber, considering I kind of butchered it when cutting the square holes for the switches and one of the holes is just a tad too big for a switch, and it's messing with my OCD.
 

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