DIY 120v eBIAB Controller Help

[enormous13]

Hey Everyone, I wasn't sure whether to put this in the Electric Brewing or Brew In A Bag forum, so if it needs to be moved, sorry.

I need some help from all the experienced users here with putting together a 120v controller for a recirculating eBIAB (Basket) kit. I've never done a brewing controller before, but I've wired my home and done other electrical projects, so I have a base knowledge set.

After seeing the price points for the pre-made units (Ex: https://brausupply.com/collections/...0-ezboil-120v-electric-brewery-controller-20a), and then a breakdown of costs for the parts (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=6740954&postcount=8), it's obvious there's some cash to be saved going the DIY route ($100+) as well as the opportunity to adjust small things for personal preference, while keeping it looking clean.

Another recent addition to the market though, that's up for consideration, is the new Inkbird IPB-16 for like $100 (https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tempcontrol_ipb16.htm). Bobby even throws a switch on for manual pump control. The downsides personally for me though are the 15Amp limit, the lack of element switch, the janky probe, and it's not the EZBoil - but for $100 it is enticing, and folks are starting to mod them it seems.

Back to the DIY question,
Here's some factors for consideration:
-My kitchen has 20A rated GFCI outlets (single circuit), so I'd like a controller that's rated for 20A, even though it'll run 15A components for now.
-Running a 1,500 watt (120v/12.5A) element (https://www.williamsbrewing.com/1500-WATT-STAINLESS-HEATING-ELEMENT-P3911.aspx).
-For the pump, I'll most likely end up using something like the Mark II/Chugger/RipTide/etc., most of which pull a little less than 1.5 Amps, so I'd like to factor for that even though I may start with one of the small solar pumps at first.
-I'm very interested in using the newest Auber EZBoil (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=670).
-On the controller, I would like two manual switches: Element On/Off & Pump On/Off. The element switch seems good for when I need to kill the element for additions or whatever, but would like the PID and thermo to still function. I think to save some space on the face of the controller, I'd like to veer away from the Brau type rotary switches and maybe use something more like this illuminated rocker switch (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006X1X8U4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20).
-I'd like to use a RTD PT100 probe, they seem like the standard here.
-I'd like to keep the controller as small as possible. The inkbird and Brau are acceptable sizes for me. The wall cabinets, like this (https://www.clawhammersupply.com/co...istillation-equipment-electric-controller-kit) are unnecessarily large.


Questions:
-With everything I've listed above, is it possible to include everything?
-I see some controllers have switches for "Alarms". What exactly are the alarms used for?
-Does anyone have a list of goods, schematic, etc. for a build like this? I couldn't find exactly anything setup like this.
-I know Auber sells enclosures, but they're a tad pricey, anyone have another source they're willing to share?
-Along with a schematic, I'll probably need help with where and how to place components into the enclosure. Is it just stick it in wherever it fits? Or is there some strategy here?
-Please, if anyone has any constructive criticism or suggestions for changes, just comment, I'm open to more experienced input.


Sorry for the long post, but thank you for reading if you got this far. Thank you ahead of time for any input.

 

[mredge73]

1. yes

2. these are for optional external alarms, for example if you wanted to power a horn or strobe light.

3. maybe?

4. you may be able to fit all of this in a 3 gang deep outdoor j-box, under $10 if you can find one deep enough at the hardware store. I have seen these built into ammo boxes as well. There are also many nema 3r (splashdown) boxes that can be found online for under $25 that can fit everything. I just don't remember how deep you need to fit the controller.

5. depends on enclosure

6. You seem to have most of it figured out.
I would advise you to go with the EZ boil, order the controller and SSR before choosing an enclosure.
A metal box would be ideal so you can mount the SSR flush to it so it acts as a heat sink. I have seen some cool setups using ammo boxes that you can pick up for next to nothing at army surplus stores.
You didn't talk about the sensor, I would look at this carefully as well. The 3 wire RTD ones are better and you will probably want to get a thermowell for your kettle.
However placement will be important as you both want a good reading and you don't want the bag to hang on it.
Because you are using 15A and 120vac, standard light switches and receptacles can be used for the pump and element keeping cost down.

Here is an example of my old RIMS setup, no switch for the element as I just unplugged it when not in use:


I used the optional alarm contacts to flash on the 30mm lights so I could see them from a distance. However they were completely unnecessary.

 

[enormous13]

@mredge73 ok, looks to me like folks use these alarms for reminders when to do additions, change temp, etc., or alert them if temps fall out of range, is that correct? If that's the case, I just feel like my iphone timer can handle that and I'll be close enough to monitor temps regularly.

Good point on the enclosure material, I'd definitely like to go with aluminum or metal so the box can act as a heat sink.

For the probe, that's exactly what I was planning on doing, adding a thermowell. I was going to put it down below the bottom of where my SS basket would be.

 

[mredge73]

More like when the temperature is well out of range. There are no timers on the controller.
I had mine set up when the temperature was 5 degrees higher and lower than the set point.

This would signal a problem with circulation; like a stuck sparge if over heating. Or an element issue if the temp dropped too far.
This is a non-issue with BIAB.

 

[enormous13]

More like when the temperature is well out of range. There are no timers on the controller.
I had mine set up when the temperature was 5 degrees higher and lower than the set point.

This would signal a problem with circulation; like a stuck sparge if over heating. Or an element issue if the temp dropped too far.
This is a non-issue with BIAB.

From the EZBoil Manual "EZboil has a built-in buzzer that can be programmed to beep when temperature reaches the alarm set temperature, ALH. The alarm will generate four short beeps every time the temperature rise from below ALH to higher than ALH."

Guess I don't need to worry about external alarms being wired in the controller, but good to know that the EZboil actually has an integrated alarm function.

 

[Bzart]

I'm basing my 120V 15A build on the Inkbird IPB-16 from Bobby, as you mentioned. I will be using two 1650W elements which will be plugged into separate 15A circuits. One will be controlled by the Inkbird, the other will just be plugged/unplugged as needed to help reach temps faster. I've found using the Inkbird over building your own controller saves massive amounts of money (~$200+/-) . I'll be utilizing an existing kettle I already have to save some money as well. I have a spreadsheet breakdown of everything I would need. If interested, find it here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1EFcIPcDxriPv8mnnhBgxngLHzlyMlE063L5Zn6B24r0/edit?usp=sharing
Furthermore, when I was designing a previous system that sounds just like yours I modified a diagram I found on here for a RIMs system, but to fit my eBIAB needs. Find it here if you still want to build your own controller: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19UR7b80pX73DlHD5bVrG_rqgMywqT6mz/view?usp=sharing

 

[BeardedBrews]

Quote

[Edit] You mentioned the Inkbird unit, frankly that is a really tough item to beat if all you want is basic PID control of a 1500w element as well as a switched outlet for your pump. You'll have to hit eBay and AliExpress to get there on price, and it's going to be very hard to beat the appearance.


Questions:
-With everything I've listed above, is it possible to include everything?
Absolutely

-I see some controllers have switches for "Alarms". What exactly are the alarms used for?
As mentioned, the controller has one built in. Some people include a dedicated switch and alarm so that they can get more volume and a bigger flashing light.

-Does anyone have a list of goods, schematic, etc. for a build like this? I couldn't find exactly anything setup like this.
My build thread has a link to a spreadsheet with all of the parts I ordered. My controller was assembled in an ammo can and uses household switches and outlets instead of the higher end industrial parts.
I have started ordering the parts to build a new controller around the EZ-Boil, but mostly because I want an aesthetic improvement, not because I expect to see a functional improvement

I tried to call out things that I upgraded after purchasing, I could have saved money by getting the nicer part in the first place. I knew this and was still too cheap.


-I know Auber sells enclosures, but they're a tad pricey, anyone have another source they're willing to share?
Any box is fine, I used the ammo can because it was cheap and I thought it would look cool. It turned out to be a bit of a pain to work inside, but it is completely functional. You could grab a tupperware tub if you didn't care about the looks, or you can buy from Auber if you want to look official. When I rebuild I'm using an Auber box


-Along with a schematic, I'll probably need help with where and how to place components into the enclosure. Is it just stick it in wherever it fits? Or is there some strategy here?
It's best to keep things logical so that if you get in a mess and need to turn off the element you don't accidentally turn off the pump instead.
I laid my parts out against the enclosure to make sure I had enough space where I wanted them, but other than space there is really no requirement. From there it's just a task of cutting wires to the right length and connecting them somehow. Wire nuts are fine if you don't want to do the rigid bus bar approach, and they save space. At the end you want to make sure that you have conductivity all the way from your main plug's grounding pin through to each switch and plug in the box, the outside of the heater element, and the body of the kettle. If you still need a 120v Schematic someone like @Doug293CZ is probably the guy.


-Please, if anyone has any constructive criticism or suggestions for changes, just comment, I'm open to more experienced input.
You have a very solid plan in mind, I think you're going to be very happy with the results.

 

[enormous13]

[Deleted for edit below]

 

[enormous13]

@BeardedBrews you mention the "aesthetic improvement", which is something I'm definitely going for. No offense to anyone on here that's done a build, but the plastic project boxes, tupperware, etc. just look like **** to me. I'm willing to pay a little more to make this thing look like it was purposefully built for this function.

Seems like wire nuts and such are going to save me a lot of space, thanks for that recommendation. Thanks for tagging Doug as well, it'd be great if someone could write up a schematic just for this.

I've just been gathering little recommendations from this and other threads, like an easy way to cut the element with a switch while keeping EZboil and thermometer functionality is to just install the switch in between the EZboil and the SSR, thus cutting the signal to the element.

[EDIT]

[Edit] You mentioned the Inkbird unit, frankly that is a really tough item to beat if all you want is basic PID control of a 1500w element as well as a switched outlet for your pump. You'll have to hit eBay and AliExpress to get there on price, and it's going to be very hard to beat the appearance.

Yeah man, at that price point, it's hard to pass it up. It has those few items that I listed above that I wish they'd improve upon, but is another $100 and my time worth it? Really between a rock and a hard place here lol.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I'm willing to pay a little more to make this thing look like it was purposefully built for this function.

Seems like wire nuts and such are going to save me a lot of space, thanks for that recommendation. Thanks for tagging Doug as well, it'd be great if someone could write up a schematic just for this.

I've just been gathering little recommendations from this and other threads, like an easy way to cut the element with a switch while keeping EZboil and thermometer functionality is to just install the switch in between the EZboil and the SSR, thus cutting the signal to the element.

It has those few items that I listed above that I wish they'd improve upon, but is another $100 and my time worth it? Really between a rock and a hard place here lol.

I'm going to use this from Auber when I put my controller back together I think, should give it a nice finished look.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=143


Regarding the wiring plan, from a safety standpoint you want the switch to disconnect the full amperage load, not just the signal wire to the SSR. That SSR is the most likely thing to fail, in which case you want a way to positively stop power.

You can connect the EZBoil directly to the main power coming into the box, then the display and teperature read out will always be on when the system is plugged in.


I'd say in parts you're at $200+ if you want the rotary switches, lights, clean enclosure and a contactor or two inside for power disconnects. I think the real advantage to doing this approach is that you can build the controller with parts capable of 30A-240V and then wire it to a 120V power cable for now. That way if you ever want to go to a full size element in the future you don't have to buy anything but a new main power cord.

Just keep in mind that we're talking about different ways to make the same beer. Pretty / Ugly, 120v / 240v, Indicator lights / None, the beer tastes the same. Once you get talking about this level of projects you want to disconnect the hardware from any value proposition, until you've brewed a couple hundred gallons it probably would have been cheaper to buy beer

 

[enormous13]

I'm going to use this from Auber when I put my controller back together I think, should give it a nice finished look.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=143


Regarding the wiring plan, from a safety standpoint you want the switch to disconnect the full amperage load, not just the signal wire to the SSR. That SSR is the most likely thing to fail, in which case you want a way to positively stop power.

You can connect the EZBoil directly to the main power coming into the box, then the display and teperature read out will always be on when the system is plugged in.


I'd say in parts you're at $200+ if you want the rotary switches, lights, clean enclosure and a contactor or two inside for power disconnects. I think the real advantage to doing this approach is that you can build the controller with parts capable of 30A-240V and then wire it to a 120V power cable for now. That way if you ever want to go to a full size element in the future you don't have to buy anything but a new main power cord.

Just keep in mind that we're talking about different ways to make the same beer. Pretty / Ugly, 120v / 240v, Indicator lights / None, the beer tastes the same.

Ok, I can definitely understand the logic of disconnecting the full amp load. That's exactly the kind of knowledge I need inputs of with this post. Or any thoughtful schematic would probably have it too.

That enclosure is perfect! Only $30 too. I was looking at one of the other boxes on Auber that was almost $60, so there's a nice savings of almost $30 there for me.

Wiring for future capabilities would be great too. That's something I'd definitely need help on though, considering the supplies change for the 240v input, and I'm not super familiar with wiring for 240v appliances, other than wiring simple outlets.

So it comes down to should I just buy the $100 Inkbird and deal with the limitations and hope that people keep modifying it so I can copy them...or, spend the extra $100 or so and do the DIY version of a controller that would ultimately cost me another $100+ to purchase and be ready for use out of the box?

$100 Inkbird --> $200-ish DIY --> $350 Pre-made Purchase

I really don't want to blow the cash on the pre-made purchase, so I'm stuck between the DIY and Inkbird.

 

[Wagon_6]

This is what I've been brewing on for 5 years now. Easy build, looks, and functions great. It's the older PID but you can use the EZboil and get rid of the alarm switch/buzzer.

View attachment 420675

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=341219&styleid=12

 

[BeardedBrews]

Element control plus switched pump outlet and unswitched aux outlet:

In the last two you can replace the switch + contactor combo with a Leviton 3032 series toggle switch. You can also swap out the SWM-DR-C for a Leviton 3032.

Brew on

That's something I'd definitely need help on though, considering the supplies change for the 240v input, and I'm not super familiar with wiring for 240v appliances, other than wiring simple outlets.

Using Doug's schematic as our gold standard You can get an idea of the general wiring plan for the controller you're talking about.

The way 240v works is by combining a pair of 120's (Line 1 and Line 2) together. If you take either one and connect to the neutral you get a normal 120v system.

In this diagram if you take the Black Line inside the controller and connect it to the Neutral input instead of the "Line 1" power input then the element side of the circuit will be running on 120v (and you'll need to change your indicator light).


(Doug, when you come in and find my egregious errors I will edit up my post )

 

[Wagon_6]

Also, I upgraded a few years back to a 2000w boilcoil so I can do 5 gallon batches no problem.

 

[enormous13]

Also, I upgraded a few years back to a 2000w boilcoil so I can do 5 gallon batches no problem.

Yeah, I wanted to wire it to handle 20 amps at 120v, in case I ever do move up to anything greater than the 1500 watt element I plan on using. Future-proof, if you will.

 

[doug293cz]

Using Doug's schematic as our gold standard You can get an idea of the general wiring plan for the controller you're talking about.

The way 240v works is by combining a pair of 120's (Line 1 and Line 2) together. If you take either one and connect to the neutral you get a normal 120v system.

In this diagram if you take the Black Line inside the controller and connect it to the Neutral input instead of the "Line 1" power input then the element side of the circuit will be running on 120v (and you'll need to change your indicator light).


(Doug, when you come in and find my egregious errors I will edit up my post )

You are correct about how to rewire for 120V operation. Some of the 240V LED indicator lamps will actually work at 120V, but will just be dimmer than at 240V (YMMV.) I recommend using 10AWG wire for all of the "fat" lines, which allows you to upgrade all the way to 30A @ 240V if you ever want to.

The circuit breaker on the input side of the diagram is not needed if the panel is fed from a circuit with an appropriate sized breaker already. This particular breaker was included at the specific request of the design "customer." If you leave the breaker out, then the EZBoil will power up as soon as you plug in the control panel. It only draws a few mA of current, so this is acceptable.

Also, be aware that this design uses an older version of the EZBoil, and the terminal assignments are completely different for the newer ones. I'll update this design when I have time.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

Yeah, I wanted to wire it to handle 20 amps at 120v, in case I ever do move up to anything greater than the 1500 watt element I plan on using. Future-proof, if you will.

Just as easy to wire it so that it will handle 30A @ 240V, and really future proof it.

Brew on

 

[enormous13]

You are correct about how to rewire for 120V operation. Some of the 240V LED indicator lamps will actually work at 120V, but will just be dimmer than at 240V (YMMV.) I recommend using 10AWG wire for all of the "fat" lines, which allows you to upgrade all the way to 30A @ 240V if you ever want to.

The circuit breaker on the input side of the diagram is not needed if the panel is fed from a circuit with an appropriate sized breaker already. This particular breaker was included at the specific request of the design "customer." If you leave the breaker out, then the EZBoil will power up as soon as you plug in the control panel. It only draws a few mA of current, so this is acceptable.

Also, be aware that this design uses an older version of the EZBoil, and the terminal assignments are completely different for the newer ones. I'll update this design when I have time.

Brew on

Probably another low-IQ question, but what would someone use the unswitched Aux. outlet for?

Are the indicator lamps really needed? I mean, on the EZboil, there is the blinking/steady light that indicates how fast energy is being pulsed to the element. Just wondering, in case it's something I can get rid of. If they are necessary, for whatever reason, could we go with something smaller and better looking (to me), like this: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=606

I've got no problem using 10 gauge for line in and such, definitely future proofs it. I've got the 120v/20 amp outlets here, and if I ever do move up to 240v, I've got a 30a outlet in the garage for it, so leaving out that breaker does make sense, helps save some space too.

An update would be great, especially something that resembles a DIY version of those Brau controllers that I referenced earlier (mostly the two plugs exiting the rear of the controller for the power in [male] and element hookup [female], and then the receptacle for the pump), with the few improvements I was looking for. Seriously, let me know if I need to pay you for this work!

Just as easy to wire it so that it will handle 30A @ 240V, and really future proof it.

Brew on

Yeah man, let's go all out on the wiring gauge and component load limits, couldn't hurt.

 

[BeardedBrews]

The non-switched outlet might be nice for a fan, or your boombox, or to power the blender so you can make margaritas!


Lamps aren't needed at all, you could just use the switch, or you could get fancy and use the combo light and switch in one:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_70&products_id=303

Also remember that parts like this may be available cheaper from other sources (same quality).

That diagram is actually very close to the Brau controller, it just uses a different style connector. That said, I'm sure Doug can fix you up.

 

[doug293cz]

Probably another low-IQ question, but what would someone use the unswitched Aux. outlet for?

It's just a convenience outlet, not really needed. You can save space by using a single outlet rather than a duplex outlet.

Are the indicator lamps really needed? I mean, on the EZboil, there is the blinking/steady light that indicates how fast energy is being pulsed to the element. Just wondering, in case it's something I can get rid of. If they are necessary, for whatever reason, could we go with something smaller and better looking (to me), like this: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=606

The element firing light also functions as an SSR failure indicator. SSR's tend to fail in the "on" condition, so if the light is on solid when it should be flashing or off, your SSR has failed. If the light is off when it should be on, then your SSR has failed in the "off" mode (rare.) It also reminds you if you forget to plug in your element. In this case, the light will be on dimly due to the slight leakage current that is inherent with SSR's.

The smaller indicator lamp will work for a 120V panel, but will need to be replaced with a 240VAC lamp if you upgrade to 240V (Auber doesn't appear to offer a 240V version.)

I've got no problem using 10 gauge for line in and such, definitely future proofs it. I've got the 120v/20 amp outlets here, and if I ever do move up to 240v, I've got a 30a outlet in the garage for it, so leaving out that breaker does make sense, helps save some space too.

An update would be great, especially something that resembles a DIY version of those Brau controllers that I referenced earlier (mostly the two plugs exiting the rear of the controller for the power in [male] and element hookup [female], and then the receptacle for the pump), with the few improvements I was looking for. Seriously, let me know if I need to pay you for this work!

I do this as a hobby and don't accept payment (also, you couldn't afford the rate I would charge for custom design work either. )

Yeah man, let's go all out on the wiring gauge and component load limits, couldn't hurt.

Brew on

 

[enormous13]

The non-switched outlet might be nice for a fan, or your boombox, or to power the blender so you can make margaritas!


Lamps aren't needed at all, you could just use the switch, or you could get fancy and use the combo light and switch in one:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_70&products_id=303

Also remember that parts like this may be available cheaper from other sources (same quality).

That diagram is actually very close to the Brau controller, it just uses a different style connector. That said, I'm sure Doug can fix you up.

mmmm margaritas lol.

Since we're getting fancy with the combo light and switch, could this work?? Some red ones would be nice. (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_73&products_id=349) Would they just be lit when switched to on, or would it perform the blinking?

True, since I'm doing all this research, I should probably put some time into finding the "right" priced options. And as for comparing it to the Brau, I have to get away from comparing aesthetics based upon a schematic. I'm understanding that a lot of how the end product looks externally is based upon the components used and placement. I guess I should say that I'd like to use the Brau as a "template" since it looks clean to me.

 

[enormous13]

It's just a convenience outlet, not really needed. You can save space by using a single outlet rather than a duplex outlet.

Gotcha, I guess we'll see how much space I'll have, that's what'll dictate it. I'll probably go with either of these boxes, I'd prefer the clamshell for the overall sizing: (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=143) -or- (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=502)

The element firing light also functions as an SSR failure indicator. SSR's tend to fail in the "on" condition, so if the light is on solid when it should be flashing or off, your SSR has failed. If the light is off when it should be on, then your SSR has failed in the "off" mode (rare.) It also reminds you if you forget to plug in your element. In this case, the light will be on dimly due to the slight leakage current that is inherent with SSR's.

The smaller indicator lamp will work for a 120V panel, but will need to be replaced with a 240VAC lamp if you upgrade to 240V (Auber doesn't appear to offer a 240V version.)

Understood, so it's a failsafe of a sort. Could this illuminated switch also act as the element firing light? (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_70&products_id=349)

I do this as a hobby and don't accept payment (also, you couldn't afford the rate I would charge for custom design work either. )

You're a good man, sir.

 

[Wagon_6]

Why can the small gauge wire for the element firing lamp be used from the SSR/Contactor? Does it not need fuse protection from the higher gauge wire?

 

[doug293cz]

...

Understood, so it's a failsafe of a sort. Could this illuminated switch also act as the element firing light? (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_70&products_id=349)

...

Yes, the lamp in that switch could be wired as the element firing light. Although normally the light in that switch would be used to show that element power is enabled.

Here's the modified design (240V version.) Again disconnecting black wires from Line1 and connecting to neutral will convert to 120V operation.

View attachment 420691

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

Why can the small gauge wire for the element firing lamp be used from the SSR/Contactor? Does it not need fuse protection from the higher gauge wire?

The lamp is a current limited load, so the risk of overloading that branch of the circuit is low. Do you put fuses on all your 18AWG appliance cords when you plug them into a 20A outlet? This design has less risk than the appliance cord example. There is nothing wrong with putting a fuse in series with the element firing lamp, or wiring it with 10AWG wire, if it makes you more comfortable.

Brew on

 

[BeardedBrews]

Here's the modified design (240V version.)

Brew on

I'll be using almost this exact diagram on my rebuild Also as Doug said, moving the indicator lights downstream of the SSR would make the switch pulse in time with the element. It's not a typical scenario since unexpected behavior from the light could have more than one cause, and that's not ideal in a high current environment.



@enormous13 If you go with that small clamshell then you're going to need something smaller than the standard contactor to be able to fit everything inside. These come to mind:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=250

I suspect that's what BrauSupply is using inside their unit to keep everything small.


As far as the relationship between the wiring diagram and the aesthetic, you're correct. It's more about the components you select than what's inside the box. In Doug's diagram the only things sticking out of the front are two switches, one indicator light, and the PID. The back has one power in, one large power out, and one small power out.

 

[BeardedBrews]

True, since I'm doing all this research, I should probably put some time into finding the "right" priced options.

Price shopping is a sensitive topic occasionally here. It's understood that many of the suppliers source components from overseas that are available at a discount elsewhere. I try not to link stuff here that undercuts a forum sponsor when I can avoid it.

Using Auber as an example you could send them a picture of Wagon's controller and a copy of Doug's wiring chart and they'd send you a box with all the parts you need to assemble it. There is a value there that's hard to argue with.

 

[enormous13]

Yes, the lamp in that switch could be wired as the element firing light. Although normally the light in that switch would be used to show that element power is enabled.

Here's the modified design (240V version.) Again disconnecting black wires from Line1 and connecting to neutral will convert to 120V operation.

View attachment 420691

Brew on

Well, if the light were on and flashing, would it not illustrate that the element is both on and the SSR isn't malfunctioning? Or is that double duty not possible? It's just a thought.

Also, just confirming, wire the black from the schematic just like it is (except the Line 1 in), but it'll actually be the negative wire when coming from a 120v source? Then, for 120v operation, don't wire the gray at all?

Sorry for all the questions lol.

 

[enormous13]

I'll be using almost this exact diagram on my rebuild Also as Doug said, moving the indicator lights downstream of the SSR would make the switch pulse in time with the element. It's not a typical scenario since unexpected behavior from the light could have more than one cause, and that's not ideal in a high current environment.

Understood, so sounds like double duty isn't possible for just the switch. That's ok, I'll probably go with that mini 120v indicator light for now, just for the size.

@enormous13 If you go with that small clamshell then you're going to need something smaller than the standard contactor to be able to fit everything inside. These come to mind:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=250

I suspect that's what BrauSupply is using inside their unit to keep everything small.

That doesn't look like it'd be immediately upgradeable to 240v, right? I'd have to switch it out.

Price shopping is a sensitive topic occasionally here. It's understood that many of the suppliers source components from overseas that are available at a discount elsewhere. I try not to link stuff here that undercuts a forum sponsor when I can avoid it.

Using Auber as an example you could send them a picture of Wagon's controller and a copy of Doug's wiring chart and they'd send you a box with all the parts you need to assemble it. There is a value there that's hard to argue with.

Another user actually gave me a heads up on not undercutting HBT users on another unrelated topic, which I can respect, it shows a sense of community. I like it. And I had no idea Auber would do that for you, that is a nice service.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Understood

Double duty for the switch is totally functional. Turn it on, the light will pulse when the SSR fires, or stay on solid if the SSR is at 100% or has failed open.

If you switch on the switch and it doesn't light up you just have a few possible things to troubleshoot. The contactor might not have triggered, the SSR could have failed open, or the PID isn't sending the SSR a signal for some reason.


Regarding the relays, you can think of 240v as two 120s put together. You would need two of those little guys to replace the single large 240 contactor, one for the black line and one for the red line. It will cost more than the contactor but will take up less space in the box.


If you have a 120v power input cable there are only the three wires, Neutral (white), Hot (red or black), and Ground (green). Hooking it up for 120 you would keep all the white lines connected exactly as they are shown, and also connect the black line from the controller to the white from your power input (down where that white dot is, using 10gauge wire). Then the red line in the diagram goes to the Hot in your power cord (whatever color that is).

If you ever switched to 240 that input power cable would have Neutral (white), Hot 1 (black), Hot 2 (red), and Ground (green) so you would just make the black-black connection and you're done.

 

[enormous13]

Double duty for the switch is totally functional. Turn it on, the light will pulse when the SSR fires, or stay on solid if the SSR is at 100% or has failed open.

If you switch on the switch and it doesn't light up you just have a few possible things to troubleshoot. The contactor might not have triggered, the SSR could have failed open, or the PID isn't sending the SSR a signal for some reason.


Regarding the relays, you can think of 240v as two 120s put together. You would need two of those little guys to replace the single large 240 contactor, one for the black line and one for the red line. It will cost more than the contactor but will take up less space in the box.


If you have a 120v power input cable there are only the three wires, Neutral (white), Hot (red or black), and Ground (green). Hooking it up for 120 you would keep all the white lines connected exactly as they are shown, and also connect the black line from the controller to the white from your power input (down where that white dot is, using 10gauge wire). Then the red line in the diagram goes to the Hot in your power cord (whatever color that is).

If you ever switched to 240 that input power cable would have Neutral (white), Hot 1 (black), Hot 2 (red), and Ground (green) so you would just make the black-black connection and you're done.

Ok, so using the illuminated switch for double duty leaves out some diagnostic capability. Reading through a second time and referencing the schematic, I get it now.

I’ll have to check the specs on that contactor, try to see if I can make it fit.

And I just realized I had the biggest brain fart about the neutral and hots lol. All wiring gets done, but like you said for 120v, the neutral and line 1 are joined, leaving one of each hot, neutral, and ground.

I guess now I need to figure out my external wiring. Is there any advantage to using permanent “pigtails” like the brau, over say installing receptacles on the controller body and using detachable cords to connect the power in and element power out?

 

[Wagon_6]

I guess now I need to figure out my external wiring. Is there any advantage to using permanent “pigtails” like the brau, over say installing receptacles on the controller body and using detachable cords to connect the power in and element power out?

I think it comes down to preference and brewing space. I have always had a dedicated area to brew so i don't need move the rig/panel around. You mentioned your 20a circuit is in your kitchen, if you're unpacking/packing up after each brew i could see a big benefit to receptacles on the panel/element for easier unpacking and storage.

 

[enormous13]

I think it comes down to preference and brewing space. I have always had a dedicated area to brew so i don't need move the rig/panel around. You mentioned your 20a circuit is in your kitchen, if you're unpacking/packing up after each brew i could see a big benefit to receptacles on the panel/element for easier unpacking and storage.

I seem to agree with that logic. Figure it’d be nice to be able to detach the cords for packing up and all.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I seem to agree with that logic. Figure it’d be nice to be able to detach the cords for packing up and all.

The detachable outlets are physically large and more expensive, but the cords are bulky and stiff if you leave them permanently attached...

It's a trade off.

 

[enormous13]

The detachable outlets are physically large and more expensive, but the cords are bulky and stiff if you leave them permanently attached...

It's a trade off.

I know the NEMA outlets are quite large. I did find these, rated up to 20A for 120/240v. Wouldn't completely future proof this controller, but the space saving is nice, and I'd pair them with their female counterpart. (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=61_63&products_id=596)

 

[enormous13]

@BeardedBrews @doug293cz

So, guys, I happened to find this while looking around the Auber site - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=64_65&products_id=698 - it pretty much checks all the boxes for me, minus the cost.

On the product page, it lists as a Key Feature "Heating element on/off control", and describes it as "It also has element control switches that allow the user to monitor the temperature when heater is turned off". I may be missing something blatantly obvious here, but I don't see a physical switch for the element, just for the pump (front) and main power (rear). Does the EZboil have some sort of built in switch to turn the element on/off that I don't know about? I skimmed the manual and didn't see anything, couldn't use the Find function to search through the document though.

Also, they sell that exact box/enclosure (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=369), which I'd really like to use. It'll fit perfectly where I need to store it. Just tall enough for the contactor you included in the schematic as well. I'm assuming since Auber produces this, that I could pull off the DIY and fit everything in there that's on the schematic?

Thank you for all this help, guys.

 

[Jambro64]

Did you look in the scratch and dent section? http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=52&products_id=544
I got the smaller box and will be putting in a Inkbird 106 controller for a 240v system with pump. It is tight but like that the box has the cutout and heat sink.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I'm assuming since Auber produces this, that I could pull off the DIY and fit everything in there that's on the schematic?

Thank you for all this help, guys.

I actually don't have any idea how they've got that box configured. It could be that the switch isn't a master switch, it just does the element output. That way as soon as you plug the controller in the display would come on.

 

[enormous13]

I actually don't have any idea how they've got that box configured. It could be that the switch isn't a master switch, it just does the element output. That way as soon as you plug the controller in the display would come on.

Ok, makes sense, that’s similar to how we were planning from the schematic here.

I think I’ll reach out to Auber, provide them our schematic, and see if they’ll put together a little “DIY kit” for me based on that build, with the few changes we made. Maybe they’ll give some insight to what’s exactly inside that controller too, contactor vs. relay, etc.

 

[enormous13]

Did you look in the scratch and dent section? http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=52&products_id=544
I got the smaller box and will be putting in a Inkbird 106 controller for a 240v system with pump. It is tight but like that the box has the cutout and heat sink.

I've been keeping an eye on it, hoping something a little smaller would pop up in there. Great deals in there.