If the SSR has latched in the on state, the light will continue to blink (following the control input.) The output side of the SSR is electrically isolated from the input, and the SSR LED is on the input side. There is no way for the LED to know that the output is not switching correctly. That is the reason that the "Element Firing Light" is critical to indicating operational failures. The external lamp tells you what the SSR output is doing, unlike the LED in the SSR.
This applies to fly sparging. When batch sparging the most important part of the sparge is stirring aggressively after adding the sparge water. The stirring is what gives you homogeneous dilution of the residual wort in the grain bed. Sparge water addition and sparged wort run-off can be as fast as your system will allow. Obviously, you can't stir to get good dilution when fly sparging.
just to reference what brand ssrs have been noted to have failure you you share what brand of SSR it was? Was it one of the Fotek clones by chance or a white one? or was it an auber brand?
My 2 cents is NOT to run full bore, I recirc at a slow 1.5-1.8 gpm on my flowmeter and get not to sound like a broken record, but I get over 90% eff this way. As you guessed it help tremendously against grain compacting and channeling.
Thats interesting, usually its the generic white ones like the inkbird and fotek branded ones that fail. This is the first confirmed case of a bad auber/mgr ssr ive seen.
Isn't Auber shipping a re-branded ASH-xxDA for their SSRs?
The white ones are all generics. (We are talking about the ssrs not the packaging here) they are sold with all sorts of brand stickers including fotek , mypin inkbird and others. some are made better than others it seems but its not worth it imho finding out which is which due to the clones and multiple manufacturers. Ebrew used to sell them to but im unsure if he still does.
I may be wrong but they appear to have changed the model number from what I rememeber. possibly a different manufacturer, might explain the recent failure.
The reality though is your completely wrong here.. Ive seen many articles and videos showing these being disected and work with them for a living and they are in fact designed and built differently.. some of the fotek clones use components only rated for 10a while others are built with the correct components. yes many of them are just rebranded but there are different factories using different shortcuts and designs making them. I have never seen a failure reported on any of the MGR ones to date and depending on if auber changed manufacturers along with the model number change it might help point something out. maybe not but still to say they are all the same is wrong. china is a big country. the chinese made auber pids are way better quality than a chinese made rex c100 knock off..
I'm not going to waste my time here as Ive done in the past its not my job to do the work to educate you on this. Something tells me you will continue to see it your own way regardless as you always seem to. Just because what you say is true with some components from some manufacturers (and I dont disagree it that it is) doesnt mean its the same across the whole country with every company. as a field engineer who repairs equipment and components that often come from places like china I can tell you there is a broad range of quality coming out of that country.
Yes and no on the rating question, an ideal data sheet would reference heat dissipation vs current so you could properly size things.
I bought them from a industrial equipment liquidator on ebay.. they were all used but so far I've used 6 of them with zero issues
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