New Brew stand, need burner help

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I think I am going to use adjustable high pressure regulators per burner. I found them at Home Depot for $25 each with stainless steel braided hose. Anybody know of a site that sells them cheaper please let me know!!!! Thanks
 
Got the burners time to go to work!!!!!!!
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Gas tie down bolts welded today
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Installed gas line main
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Another Productive Day!!!!!!!!!
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Pressure check my main gas bar:
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Initial Reading:
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2 Hours later:
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Looks as if we are good!!!!! Leave it over night and see in morning
 
Anybody knows of a good place to get a metal box with a blank face for a control panel development. Even better a place that will cut a custom face plate to my design???? Thanks
 
Shawnguinn. Awesome stand...love it
Questions: I noticed you installed your gas manifold (piping) on the rear of the stand? Or is that the bottom front? Didnt know since you have that top rail bar. (which by the way. I will add on other stand I will be building in the future)

What are you going to use to connect to your burners?

Looking great! :)

:tank:
 
Think I'm going with Mr. Heater High Pressure Propane Gas Regulators with POL Fitting, they are 0-30psi adjustable regulators for $20.37 Ineed 3 of them!!!!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YQP76/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The reviews on that regulator aren't very encouraging... You might be better served with the BC7850 on this page.

Do you really need 3 regulators? You should be able to regulate the input to the gas beam, then use needle valves to tweak pressure to the individual burners. Regulators are great to ensure a constant output pressure when input pressure fluctuates... but needle valves should be able to do the job if you have regulated input to the gas beam. Just a thought.

Also, since those regulators have POL inputs, you'd probably need to remove the male POL fitting and replace it with something else to mount to your gas pipe.

Looking sweet!
 
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The reviews on that regulator aren't very encouraging... You might be better served with the BC7850 on this page.

Do you really need 3 regulators? You should be able to regulate the input to the gas beam, then use needle valves to tweak pressure to the individual burners. Regulators are great to ensure a constant output pressure when input pressure fluctuates... but needle valves should be able to do the job if you have regulated input to the gas beam. Just a thought.

Looking sweet!

I agree. I looked at that regulator and also noticed the ratings. I bought another adjustable regulator instead.

Also, just like diatonic stated. All you need is one regulator from your propane tank to your pipe. From there just adjust the flame to the burner through the gas valves.
 
Cool, thanks for the advice I will do exactly that. I wasn't thinking, I am so glad for your advice!!!!!
 
For your box, found an old security system metal box. My local scrap yard guy showed it to me plus some copper. I cut the top out, took a street sign , flipped it over (nice aluminum) and cut out a new top. Cheap and looks good. Bottom line is going by your local scrap yard = good finds.

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I'm thinking of powdercoating this stand but also throwing around painting it. Any body found a good paint that can stand up to the burner heat????
 
Shawnguinn. Awesome stand...love it
Questions: I noticed you installed your gas manifold (piping) on the rear of the stand? Or is that the bottom front? Didnt know since you have that top rail bar. (which by the way. I will add on other stand I will be building in the future)

What are you going to use to connect to your burners?

Looking great! :)

:tank:

it is at the bottom on the back, i'll just have to bend over to adjust them, or put an in-line needle valve with a remote manual silanoid controle I can mount on the panel
 
I'm thinking of powdercoating this stand but also throwing around painting it. Any body found a good paint that can stand up to the burner heat????

Sorry that I posted this in another thread as well, but it probably need to be said here too. :D

I think BBQ paint would hold up to temps better than standard powder coating. Not sure about high-temp powder coating, but I've heard it is expensive. The BBQ paints take 1000-1200F I believe, my powder coating discolored a bit while I was testing a burner, and I'm working on some heat shields to protect it. My powder coat cured at 400F and got kind of a 'burny smell' when I blew past that.

EDIT - Also, I didn't have any heat problems until I actually set the kettle on the burner. Those Banjos crank out a lot of heat, and instead of going straight up when the kettle was on, lots of hot air exhausted out the corners and got the stand *really* hot.
 
I have done some research on high temp paint and it seems to apply it correctly after the paint dries you have to heat the whole stand up to 400 degrees and keep it there for 2 hours, not sure how to do it to the whole stand. I could do it to the burner surfaces but if you cure one part of the stand and not the other will the rest of the stand chip????
 
I have done some research on high temp paint and it seems to apply it correctly after the paint dries you have to heat the whole stand up to 400 degrees and keep it there for 2 hours, not sure how to do it to the whole stand. I could do it to the burner surfaces but if you cure one part of the stand and not the other will the rest of the stand chip????

You could run the burners low, with kettles in place. All the while, checking the temp around the kettles and adjusting the burners to get "near" 400F. Grab a pint of homebrew and leave it alone for 1-2hrs. Any paint that was far enough away (and didn't get up to 400F), you probably care less about fully curing anyway.

--
Josh
 
I have done some research on high temp paint and it seems to apply it correctly after the paint dries you have to heat the whole stand up to 400 degrees and keep it there for 2 hours, not sure how to do it to the whole stand. I could do it to the burner surfaces but if you cure one part of the stand and not the other will the rest of the stand chip????

What I did was paint the bare metal with the high temp barbeque paint. On the can itself, It says NOT to use primer. I just painted the surface area where the keggles sit and direct heat is applied. (I painted the entire top)

The rest of the stand I primed and then used epoxy paint.
 
What I did was paint the bare metal with the high temp barbeque paint. On the can itself, It says NOT to use primer. I just painted the surface area where the keggles sit and direct heat is applied. (I painted the entire top)

The rest of the stand I primed and then used epoxy paint.

That sounds like an EXCELLENT approach! I'm building a system to raffle off as a fundraiser for my brew club, and I'm going to follow your lead. I think I'll paint ONLY the keggle support/burner areas first with the Hi-Temp, and then do the 400ish cure. That should be easy enough, I can use some demo-ed duct sheet metal from work to make a canopy over it - a makeshift curing kiln. Then, once that's done, I can prime and paint the remainder with epoxy - far and away the most durable finish for the non-heated surfaces.
 
What I did was paint the bare metal with the high temp barbeque paint. On the can itself, It says NOT to use primer. I just painted the surface area where the keggles sit and direct heat is applied. (I painted the entire top)

The rest of the stand I primed and then used epoxy paint.

Thanks, I will do just that
 
You might also look at Flame Proof Header Paint at the auto parts store.. NOT Engine Block Paint.

I used the header paint on my rig. It looks good and its holding up 100x better than I thought it would. It does have to be cured like the barbaque paint. I have a kerosene jet heater that I fired up and directed at the rig. Came out great couldn't be happier. Especially since it only cost me $12 to do the whole thing

http://morebeer.ning.com/photo/brewerybuild-2?context=user
 
Fletch,

I hope your idea works but I'll bet your frame will look like it went through a three alarm fire when your finished heating your kettles. No matter what temp rating your paint, a flame from your burner will melt it, bubble it, screw it up! You can dream but you won't sleep at night because in your gut you know flame and paint "don't" mix. 1000 degrees , my a----.

Diatonic is on the right path. the path that will set a powdercoater freeeeee!

Good luck with your idea though. I'm dyin to see a frame that has been painted, withstand the flame and survive.

Bartman
 
Yeah, Snake, been there, been burnt like that before. Just thought it would be worth a try with this new rig.
 
I just bought some 2000 degree header paint and am going to give it a try, It will be much easier to re paint then re powdercoat this rig. If it bocomes to much of a problem I will design and install some stainless steel inserts. Time will tell!!!!!!

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Moved the gas bar to the front today, much easier to deal with adjusting heat to prevent boil over’s!!!! Pumps come monday!!!!



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Started the keggles today while waiting for my pumps to show up. I got 1.5 of them done!!!

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Mounted the pump brackets and drilled the holes for wiring today.:mug:
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Second pump should come tomorrow.
 
We turned into a paint shop today!!! A little paint on the hands is a step closer to brew in the belly!!!! Thanks, Jack "The Man" for your help. Regulator is ordered and is the only thing holding me back from firing.
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