New Anvil Bucket Fermentors

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willbaar3 said:
I ordered an Anvil fermenter this summer, spent forever waiting for it to come back in stock. When I got it, it had deep scratches on the inside. Apart from the scratches, the fit and finish is distinctly worse than SS Brewtech. I ended up returning it, customer service was great but the replacement was also damaged.
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Maybe this is why they are not in stock most places. Hoping they ran out of inventory and are making or redesigning new ones.
 
CTS said:
Maybe this is why they are not in stock most places. Hoping they ran out of inventory and are making or redesigning new ones.
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For what it's worth, they keep all the stock at the factory. I ordered from a home brew shop in NJ, it shipped from Indiana.
 
willbaar3 said:
For what it's worth, they keep all the stock at the factory. I ordered from a home brew shop in NJ, it shipped from Indiana.
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Even the Anvil site states they are out of stock. I'm guess the shipping might be different here in Canada though, mind you it is way cheaper to ship in the US.
 
CTS said:
I have heard nothing but good things from everyone. I dont believe these anvil ones fit in a mini fridge but the ss brewtech ones do. I could be wrong though. I'm looking forward to the stainless!!
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Oh, they look like they would but I don't know their exact dimensions. I know my 7 gal brew bucket is a tight fit, but it makes it. My 3.5 fits well enough that I can also get a Mr Beer fermenter in there at the same time.
Yeah you'll love the stainless!
 
willbaar3 said:
I ordered an Anvil fermenter this summer, spent forever waiting for it to come back in stock. When I got it, it had deep scratches on the inside. Apart from the scratches, the fit and finish is distinctly worse than SS Brewtech. I ended up returning it, customer service was great but the replacement was also damaged.
Click to expand...
Ugh, I have to admit that while I do like my Anvil bucket fermenter, I wish I had sprung for the SS Brewtech. My anvil is totally fine, but the fit and finish is just "ok". The racking arm and valve are weird and constrictive and I have lid seal issues (although that could be my fault as I modified my lid)
 
CTS said:
Hmm, your the first person that I have heard this from. What mini fridge do you have?
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To be honest I don't know the brand anymore .

My mini fridge I bought for a kegerator (fits two cornies) will fit both, but my fermentation fridge is just not tall enough for the SS bucket. But the Anvil is a perfect fit .
 
cnash said:
To be honest I don't know the brand anymore .

My mini fridge I bought for a kegerator (fits two cornies) will fit both, but my fermentation fridge is just not tall enough for the SS bucket. But the Anvil is a perfect fit .
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Well I will have to give mine a good measure then. Mine fits two cornies, I always thought the handles and the hump in the mini fridge would make it not work.
 
I'm quite happy with mine. I have two of them. Getting ready to rig mine for keg purging and a closed transfer.

I don't crash chill with mine used to do a warm transfer then carb in the keezer. I'm soon to be spunding, so no need to crash chill.
20181006_164617.jpeg
 
sweetcell said:
TAN:

are you saying that pressure can replace cold-crashing? haven't heard of this, please educate me!
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It's not so much about pressure forcing yeast to drop out for clarity purposes. It's the opposite, it's getting it to the keg while it's near the end of the fermentation cycle in order to get carbonation done naturally. Letting the yeast tucker on the last 15-20 gravity points. Giving me about 15psi spund pressure at 68F. Then let it clear either warm or chilled, but in the keg.


s-l400.jpeg
 
Has anyone seen if the Ssbrewtech mini or 7 gal bucket lid would fit this?

I have a idea but would prefer to us the flat lid instead of the Anvil dome lid.
 
arnobg said:
Actually 7.5 is perfect for 5 gallon brewers. I use BSG 7.8 gallon buckets and I don't know how people do it on anything smaller. I also brew to get 5 gallons in the keg too though which is usually 5.5 into the bucket to start.
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What I want is a basic stainless 6.5 gallon bucket with a spot for temp probe, good folding handles , sealed lid with opening the size of standard glass carboy and the same or smaller diameter as 6.5 glass ones . I haven’t switched from glass yet because I need 2 of these to fit in my fermentation chamber and all the stainless ones are huuuge
 
Anyone else seem to get blow off in this yet? I filled it 3 times to the rim with ipas around 1.070. Fully expecting a good show, too not a dam thing. Just using us05.
 
Andrew7447 said:
Anyone else seem to get blow off in this yet? I filled it 3 times to the rim with ipas around 1.070. Fully expecting a good show, too not a dam thing. Just using us05.
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i've definitely gotten big blowoffs in my anvil buckets, but it was with belgian yeasts that are notorious for foaming up. haven't had any issues with american yeasts. US-05 isn't known for kicking up too much.
 
Schlenkerla said:
It's not so much about pressure forcing yeast to drop out for clarity purposes. It's the opposite, it's getting it to the keg while it's near the end of the fermentation cycle in order to get carbonation done naturally. Letting the yeast tucker on the last 15-20 gravity points. Giving me about 15psi spund pressure at 68F. Then let it clear either warm or chilled, but in the keg.


View attachment 607297
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Do you have a link to the building/parts of that spund/pressure relief/with-gauge setup that you show in that pic? I'm especially interested in the pressure relief parts for a CC-pinlock, and whether I can locate a pin-lock setup for it - and what other pressure settings might be available. (All my kegs are pin-locks!)
THX
 
MT2sum said:
Do you have a link to the building/parts of that spund/pressure relief/with-gauge setup that you show in that pic? I'm especially interested in the pressure relief parts for a CC-pinlock, and whether I can locate a pin-lock setup for it - and what other pressure settings might be available. (All my kegs are pin-locks!)
THX
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Yeah, I have a web link somewhere with the bill of materials.

I also bought this at Menards for $9.

- A regulator $4.99
- A gauge for $3.99.
- 1/4 NPT brass plug.
- 1/4 NPT to 3/16" brass hose barb.

I had the hose, and 1/4 FFL swivel with 3/16 barb, the 1/4 MFL ball lock disconnect and the two hose clamps.

It's actually much cheaper to make this one below.

20190130_111616.jpeg


Sent from my SM-G900V using Home Brew mobile app
 
Thanks, now I gotta get hold of Menards (they're not in this part of TN, but I used to see them in N and S Dakota a lot)!

The closest store is in Kentucky, but I'm sure they will ship .... for a price!

Owensboro
3001 Heartland Crossing
Owensboro, KY 42303

Masterforce® 1/4" NPT Mini Regulator with Gauge $4.99
Model Number: CR1401G
Menards® SKU: 2074721
Sioux Chief 3/16" ID Barb x 1/4" MIP Brass Adapter $ 1.80
Model Number: 17700081
Menards® SKU: 6802176
Sioux Chief 1/4" FIP Brass Tee $.3.99
Model Number: 17700253
Menards® SKU: 6805115
Sioux Chief 1/4" MIP Brass Hex Head Plug $ 1.89
Model Number: 0121991
Menards® SKU: 6803191

I didn't find a pressure release like your first pic showed, but I'm sure there's one out there somewhere! Lots of different ones on ebay for as low as $1.18, but you have to wait for a month or so for them from China.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=311737813987

Here's an adjustable one on Ebay that will adjust to the lower pressures used in brewing. My understanding is that corny kegs are rated at about 125-150 PSI. So I wouldn't trust a pressure relief valve that is for a compressor - 10 KG is about 142 PSI, according to a convertor I found online. I'll go for the adjustable 0-100 PSI. at $12.39 with free shipping out of Sarasota, Florida!
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=132273629322

Thanks!
 
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I finally come around to doing closed transfers. I'm purging my keg to be filled with the fermentor as it cranks away

Purging:
(Anvil airlock out) to (Beer_Line_Out)
(Keg_Gas_Line_In) to a Blow-off Growler

I'm doing my with gravity fill. I am using 1/4MFL hoses that I swap from keg purge to keg fill.

Filling:
(Anvil ball valve out) to (Keg_Beer_Line_Out)
(Anvil airlock out) to (Gas_Line_In)

I'm interested in how you both connected ball valve to your fill hose. I have two barbs; (1/2 to 3/8) and (3/8 to 1/4) connected to 3/16 line on a Beer QD with a 1/4MFL. Damn thing is like a venturi sucking it air.

muledogus said:
Completed my first closed transfer with my Anvil. Everything went pretty well. Got stuck about half way through, I think I got a little over-zealous with turning the dip tube and got a little too much trub that clogged it up. I quickly blew the valve out with co2 and it started flowing again. The gas post I drilled into my lid needs some work. When pressure was building due to the clog it was definitely leaking around the seal.

A few questions for those who do closed transfers regularly:

When purging your keg (I filled with star-san then pushed it all out with c02) How much pressure are you doing that with? and do you leave the tank on the whole time or do you shut off and on as needed? and if different than above, how much pressure would you say you have in the keg when it's time to transfer beer?

Using the method above, is it still necessary to purge the headspace in the keg after filling? I don't really see why it would be but I'm no expert.

View attachment 582432
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What kind of fitting are you using at the ball valve?


sweetcell said:
see attached pix. file under "better late than never"...

View attachment 583017 View attachment 583018 View attachment 583019
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It looks like you're using two hoses? Can you elaborate?

Early this morning I emailed Anvil for gravity fill solution. Basically ball valve to QD 1/4MFL
 
I’m digging this setup, but seeing as how I have a Fermonster, I can’t put any pressure on the fermenter. I have it purging my serving keg as it ferments, but I like to naturally carb my kegs. This is easy in a pressure vessel like a keg with a spunding valve, but I’m not sure how to do this with my Fermonster and without breaking the closed system. I suppose I could add my priming sugar solution to the serving keg when I hook it up to purge it. Wait till it’s finished then transfer.

Are people pressurizing their Anvil fermenters to 12 psi or so???

Is anyone without pressure vessels just purging their keg using fermentation gas then using priming sugar to carb?

Am I making any sense? [emoji16]
 
jeeppilot said:
Is anyone without pressure vessels just purging their keg using fermentation gas then using priming sugar to carb?
Click to expand...

I purge my kegs with CO2 before I put still wine in them, but last Aug I needed to put my RIS in something other than my glass carboy, and didn't have time to bottle becuz I was taking it cross country. I racked into the keg with no primer at all, just the CO2 from the purge - 3 weeks later it had a slight natural carbonation I'd guess, (way too slight for my stouts, just kind of a tingle in your mouth, not as if it had gotten some wild yeast), but I drank it anyways becuz it tasted so good, I couldn't wait - It was https://www.love2brew.com/Imperial-Stout-All-Grain-Kit-p/sbk018c.htm here. AIH has a keg lid w/airlock and bung https://www.homebrewing.org/Cornelius-Keg-Lid-for-Secondary-Fermenter_p_999.html which I had read about - I didn't have one (yet!) but it's on my wish-list after that experience! I know now I could have been doing a primary/secondary 'fermenting-all-the-way' as I travelled! Next trip tho .......
 
Thorrak said:
Probably not. I can’t imagine putting any sustained pressure in the vessel - and certainly not more than 1-2psi.
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this. the anvil bucket can't hold more than a few PSI. just putting a few gallons of hot water in it, sealing it and then shaking it a little will cause the lid gasket to fail from the pressure of the expanding heated air inside. thing can't hold pressure for beans.

(and by "fail", i mean that pressure is blown out through the gasket. i suspect that the latches don't keep the lid attached tightly enough, so increased pressure = lid separates from bucket just enough for pressure to sneak out)
 
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Schlenkerla said:
I finally come around to doing closed
It looks like you're using two hoses? Can you elaborate?
Click to expand...
i'm doing what i call "closed loop" transfer. while the beer flows down to the purged keg, it is displacing CO2 so that CO2 has to go somewhere - that "somewhere" is back to the anvil bucket. so in essence i'm swapping the beer in the bucket for the CO2 in the keg - beer goes bucket to keg, while CO2 goes from keg to bucket. it's all gravity powered, no pressure used (prior to transfer, the purged keg is bled until it's at about normal atmospheric pressure - if is it any higher, when i connect the keg to the bucket the pressure will quickly blow out the bucket, per my last post).
 
I'm using my Anvil for 1st time on my 5th brew. I used glass before to learn what was going on. On this one I am also using my new Tilt hydrometer. All is going very good according to the Tilt. Fermenting at 66°F. I'm interested to learn how to do a closed transfer at the end.

IMG-0695.JPG
 
Alex4mula said:
I'm using my Anvil for 1st time on my 5th brew. I used glass before to learn what was going on. On this one I am also using my new Tilt hydrometer. All is going very good according to the Tilt. Fermenting at 66°F. I'm interested to learn how to do a closed transfer at the end.

View attachment 614725
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cool, so the stainless isn't blocking the signal from the tilt?
 
sweetcell said:
cool, so the stainless isn't blocking the signal from the tilt?
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It won’t block it - it just might make it weaker.

They’re releasing a Bluetooth “repeater” soon as well to help with this that can sit just outside of the fermenter/fermentation chamber and repeat the Bluetooth signal so as to enable maximum range for whatever you’re reading it with.
 
sweetcell said:
i'm doing what i call "closed loop" transfer. while the beer flows down to the purged keg, it is displacing CO2 so that CO2 has to go somewhere - that "somewhere" is back to the anvil bucket. so in essence i'm swapping the beer in the bucket for the CO2 in the keg - beer goes bucket to keg, while CO2 goes from keg to bucket. it's all gravity powered, no pressure used (prior to transfer, the purged keg is bled until it's at about normal atmospheric pressure - if is it any higher, when i connect the keg to the bucket the pressure will quickly blow out the bucket, per my last post).
Click to expand...
Yeah, how did you get the hose on the ball valve to the keg connection. What fittings. Looks like two hoses. That step down to keg inlet of 1/4 or 3/16.
 
Here is my solution for closed transfer using the Anvil Bucket: 1-2 psi (at the most) in the fermenter via a bottle carb QD into a drilled stopper, only enough to replace the space in the fermenter.

I also bought a Blichmann 1/2" NPT female X 1/4" hose barb on the end of which I put a flared connection for a ball-lock QD.

Check out my transfer process.
 

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Schlenkerla said:
Yeah, how did you get the hose on the ball valve to the keg connection. What fittings. Looks like two hoses. That step down to keg inlet of 1/4 or 3/16.
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ah, got it. yeah, it's a pretty ugly McGuyver'ed system made with whatever hose i had laying around. big hose is 1/2", smaller braided hose is beer line that came with my used kegerator. it's pretty thick, so it just fits inside the 1/2" and fits over the gas in barb. hose clamps to make sure everything stays snug.
upload_2019-2-25_15-48-43.png
 
Franktalk said:
Here is my solution for closed transfer using the Anvil Bucket: 1-2 psi (at the most) in the fermenter via a bottle carb QD into a drilled stopper, only enough to replace the space in the fermenter.

I also bought a Blichmann 1/2" NPT female X 1/4" hose barb on the end of which I put a flared connection for a ball-lock QD.

Check out my transfer process.
Click to expand...
Can I get a close up of the ball valve to hose connection?

You too @sweetcell... BTW thanks for the above picture.
 
I was watching this video. For bladder kegs filling and saw how they use a scale. That's what I need to do with my closed transfer to estimate it's fill vs just picking it up thinking its heavy.

I feel stupid and smart at the same time since the scale is less than six feet from where I fill kegs.






IMG_20190226_021105.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Schlenkerla said:
I was watching this video. For bladder kegs filling and saw how they use a scale. That's what I need to do with my closed transfer to estimate it's fill vs just picking it up thinking its heavy.

I feel stupid and smart at the same time since the scale is less than six feet from where I fill kegs.
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i used the scale method too. i go to about 50 or 51 pounds, depending how full i want to get the keg. 51 is pretty damn full, not much headspace for CO2 at that point.
 

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