If you go back a couple days postwise I gave the info as to how I fit my duotight over barbs. Have done it successfully on several occasions using the method I detailed.
Need Help Switching to EVA Barrier and DuoTight Fittings
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False. You can get 4mm over a 1/4" barb all day. Dip in hot tap water for 30 seconds, force in a lightly lubed swage tool or even the front end of a pen and let it cool for a few seconds.
When I say pen, I mean one that has a smooth metal taper at the business end.
Cool. I struggled a ton, and I'm pretty good at stuff but not this! Stuff was warmed, all the tools included, but not too warm (or the line just buckles), I held it straight as possible - hated it.
On a related note I just saw an email from Williams that they have (not sure if it's proprietary) keg ball lock fittings with the press-connect tube fittings built right in. Could save a big step and eliminate some cracked fittings as well (something people seem to have issue with based on reading other threads).
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Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Yeah they are currently out of that. Plus their 15% ended Monday. I ended up going with keg factory and it all came out to like $130
Thanks for the headsup! Just ordered some. I'll post my impression here once set up.
Got an email from Williams last night. Those suckers are back in stock. Ordered enough to convert my current kegerator connectors and a couple extras.
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user 298779
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This is a really nice looking setup KnightshadeMost of the stuff id bother adding would just be echo chamber.
I know there are some others on the board who have fit duotight over flare fittings with warm water, some tools and ALOT of patience.
I also came across a vid sometime ago that recommended 3/4 turn on the ball lock flare fittings for the duotight connectors. I’ve been sticking with that and haven’t had any issues yet.
Have also read that star San will break the connectors down if you soak and/or keep them saturated. I use mine for all type of transfers beer/gas/BLC/Star San, so I make sure to take the ball locks apart and rinse out with tap water after I’m done using them for whatever.
And..regarding the multiple regulator setup. I’ve posted this before, so possible you’ve seen it already but just in case you haven’t. Makes kegerator use easy for carbonating, serving (4) and the extra line is usually for transfers or quick force carbonating something.
I’m going to use your set-up design to convert my 5 gas lines to Duo-tite this week.Cheers
I converted to EVA tubing without investing in any duotight fittings using a tapered center punch tool and hot water.
Soak the center punch, and tubing ends in hot water for a minute. Then use the center punch to expand the tubing diameter, dipping both in hot water as needed. Once the tubing is the correct size, remove the center punch and insert the flared end of the swivel nut.
Soak the center punch, and tubing ends in hot water for a minute. Then use the center punch to expand the tubing diameter, dipping both in hot water as needed. Once the tubing is the correct size, remove the center punch and insert the flared end of the swivel nut.
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Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Wish I saw this first but awesome info nonetheless
Have converted my system to all DuoTight, still have to hook up the new gas board with individual regulators. And just FYI for those who use DuoTight, the DuoTight ball valves are now available in the US at Williams Brewing. Just ordered 3 beer, 3 gas myself.
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Just curious about the sizing. The link shows a ¼" circlip retainer. Shouldn't it be a 5/16" circlip for an 8mm fitting? I couldn't find a "stateside" supplier that carried the 8mm Kegland circlips. I did find one in Calgary, Canada, but shipping was $20 USD for a $4 order.
Yikes! The listing changed to 3/8" from 1/4". In any case, I ordered those because some else on here got them and they worked. They worked for me, too. Seems like they are gone now, but there are similar recommendations on Amazon.
Instead of using plastic clips at an exorbitant price, how about using a short piece of solid core electrical/copper wire in the groove? It should hold its horseshoe shape once in there.
Or perhaps a skinny zip tie?
I've seen the locking clips such as these (5/16") at FreshWaterSystems.
Once you include the shipping they seem way overpriced too.
Always silly to place an order for only a few bucks... better combine and order more stuff.
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Instead of using plastic clips at an exorbitant price, how about using a short piece of solid core electrical/copper wire in the groove? It should hold its horseshoe shape once in there.
Or perhaps a skinny zip tie?
I've seen the locking clips such as these (5/16") at FreshWaterSystems.
Once you include the shipping they seem way overpriced too.
Always silly to place an order for only a few bucks... better combine and order more stuff.
Yeah, the end price is pretty ridiculous, but it buys me peace of mind. The Brooothru Corollary to Murphy's Law applies:
"If a system fails, it will invariably fail at the worst possible time, and always in the least accessible location."
For me, that would be "any time" and the location would be "at the junction of the beer shank and the Duotight 6.5mm x 8mm reducer fitting inside a 3" Tower shaft." (x2 taps). I've already had to suffer through an over-night interior leak (and loss of most of an award-winning IPA) from a keg inside my kegerator, and the subsequent clean-up outside the kegerator in recent months. Not again! The only consolation was discovering the mess just as we were about to leave home for an extended 6 week trip. I don't even want to consider what we would have come home to if I hadn't decided to do "one last look" downstairs to make sure all the lights had been turned out.
Anyway, shipping and handling came to a little over $18 bucks for a bag of 100 circlips. That's better than $25 for a bag of 50, and delays in trans-shipment and customs with our neighbors to the north. Added value: It looks like they'll fit on my portable reverse osmosis system. I don't recall ever breaking any circlips when changing filters or the membrane, but I always seem to 'misplace' a few whenever I do. Likely outcome: I'll forget where I put the partially used bag, and end up ordering more.
Had my first leak last night... Luckily when cleaning lines so it wasn't homebrew leaking... the 3/8 pack of 50 on Amazon is still there if you scroll down. Just ordered for $6 and free shipping. Had no leaks for about a year, but I'll be snapping these on as soon as I get them.
Oddly enough..so did I. Went out to the garage on Sunday to carb some of the NA ginger beer I made for the kids and...20 lb tank I just filled up in late November is empty...WTF.
Have a really good idea of where it leaked too...but just haven't had the wherewithal to troubleshoot it since I know I have new hardware coming in anyways and I'll have to leak test that anyways.
When I hooked up a keg that should be carbonated by now had it not been for the damn leak...the gas post was really touchy. If I angled it too much, it was leaking to the point where I could hear it. So I just kinda angled it back out as to not be as extreme? Closed the door, left it. New SS posts...never had a leak w/the previous CMB ball locks. New duotight ball locks should be in on Friday..so I'll hook all that stuff up to the back up tank, leak test and report back. Interested to hear what others think of these too.
That's the rubber o-ring around the top of the post leaking. It's either the wrong size or it's worn. Keg lube can help form a good seal against the hard surfaces, but not fill any voids. I hate using silicone o-rings for that location, they're too soft. Use Buna-N ("regular rubber") instead.
Oh...veddy interesting. When I disassemble the kegs, I usually apply a layer of keg lube to the various o-rings but I have been not doing so w/the posts because I feel like I'm gunk'ing up the ball lock connector somehow. And I wouldn't doubt that I've probably worn some of them down from accidentally forcing the wrong connector to the wrong post on more than one occasion.
I'll make sure to inspect those o-rings as I'm replacing the connectors w/the duo-tight ones and/or apply a thin layer of keg lube. Thanks for the tip!!
earachemyeye69
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1/4" tubing could be problematic wrt dispensing setups, but it's the O2 permeability of the tubing that makes it a non starter...
Cheers!
Cheers!
ScrewyBrewer, what size tubing did you use in that photo? Is it 4mm or 5mm ID?
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Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I’m not sure which he used but Your liquid lines should be 4mm for the most restriction. It will greatly benefit your pouring.
If you don’t have the duotight for your shanks or balllocks, you can heat up the tubing and use needle nose pliers and an expander to flare the ends of the hose enough to get them over a 1/4 bath
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