Need Help BIAB Wiring Diagram

[vincee]

Hello Everyone,

Long time reader first time poster. I’m building electric biab but i’m struggling to design controller box. My country use 220V one phase (live, neutral, ground) electricity. No one around me desing this type of electrical project so I need your help. Can you draw a diagram for me? Researched forum already and projects mostly consist of 2 hot lines. I’m little bit confused and don’t know how to design. Basic layout attached, i hope to see you answers. Thanks in advance.


2400W 220V heating element
i am planning to use 16A or 25A switch
one 220v led for pump on/off
one 220v led for element on/off
one 220v led for element activity to detect SSR failure

 

[WBCo]

Have you searched for 120V single phase controller diagrams? If you are using 220V single phase power on everything in the box the wiring should be the same.

 

[morbster]

I agree with WBCo. If all your components are rated for 220V, then just copy a 120V schematic. If your components (LEDs, switches, etc) are only 120V, then it gets a little more complicated.

 

[vincee]

Have you searched for 120V single phase controller diagrams? If you are using 220V single phase power on everything in the box the wiring should be the same.

Thank you for this info i didn't know that. So this PJ diagram suitable for my project. I just need to figure out how to wire leds.

 

[morbster]

Yep, that’ll work. What controller do you plan on using?

 

[vincee]

Mypin TD4-SNR

 

[Pozzi]

Hi guys, just reviving an old post because it matches my requirements pretty well. Regarding the above design from PJ, I'm also planning a 220v 15amp single phase biab build and I wanted to double check a few things.

1; would the rating of the fuses and resistors stay the same for 220v?

2; will the contact terminal busses need to be bridged on the input side so as to provide a connection to all the output side terminals?

3; I'm planning on using different switches than those in the diagram, but all are 220v 15amp rated, will it make any difference? Some have led lights in them.

4; is the e stop necessary considering I am using a normal 15amp circuit?

The element will be 220v 2000w, the pump is 220v 15w, a PID and 40amp da SSR for firing the element. Also I plan to add a small 220v fan to aid in the cooling of the SSR.

 

[doug293cz]

Hi guys, just reviving an old post because it matches my requirements pretty well. Regarding the above design from PJ, I'm also planning a 220v 15amp single phase biab build and I wanted to double check a few things.

1; would the rating of the fuses and resistors stay the same for 220v?

The fuse ratings can remain the same. The resistors for the E-stop need to be double the value specified for 120V, but if you omit the E-stop, you don't need the resistors.

2; will the contact terminal busses need to be bridged on the input side so as to provide a connection to all the output side terminals?

Not sure what you are asking here.

3; I'm planning on using different switches than those in the diagram, but all are 220v 15amp rated, will it make any difference? Some have led lights in them.

15A switches are fine, as long as your element is less than 3000W.

4; is the e stop necessary considering I am using a normal 15amp circuit?

Not really.

The element will be 220v 2000w, the pump is 220v 15w, a PID and 40amp da SSR for firing the element. Also I plan to add a small 220v fan to aid in the cooling of the SSR.

See detailed responses in blue above.

What PID are you planning to use?

Brew on

 

[Pozzi]

See detailed responses in blue above.

What PID are you planning to use?

Brew on

Thanks Doug! I really appreciate it. Regarding question number 2 I was asking more about the actual practical side of the wiring, how to create the hot bus, neutral bus and ground bus. What is the best/neatest way to go about it?

The PID I'm using is from Berm instruments with an SSR output. There are a couple others I'm looking at as well.

I chose the 2000w element because by my calcs the total load should stay under 10amps with everything running and that leaves decent head space on the circuit if some other devices are also connected. Out of interest sake if I used a 2500w element would all the other components stay the same?

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks Doug! I really appreciate it. Regarding question number 2 I was asking more about the actual practical side of the wiring, how to create the hot bus, neutral bus and ground bus. What is the best/neatest way to go about it?

The PID I'm using is from Berm instruments with an SSR output. There are a couple others I'm looking at as well.

I chose the 2000w element because by my calcs the total load should stay under 10amps with everything running and that leaves decent head space on the circuit if some other devices are also connected. Out of interest sake if I used a 2500w element would all the other components stay the same?

For fairly simple designs, like the one you are using, you can often get by without actually having bus strips. Just daisy chain the connections from one component to another by placing two wires on one terminal. For more complex designs, using terminal strips can simplify the original wiring, and especially any maintenance/troubleshooting. There are several different types of terminal strips available, and the most important thing is that the terminals are an appropriate size for the wires or connectors you are using. Many terminal strips require jumper links to tie pairs of terminals together to make a multi-terminal bus.

I'm not familiar with the Berm PIDs, but you need to make sure that the model you choose has a manual mode in addition to PID mode. You need manual mode to set the power at specific levels to control the boil vigor you desire. PID mode is very bad at controlling boil vigor.

A 220 - 240V pump is going to take less than 1A, and the PID will take only a few milliamps, so you should be ok with up to a 3000W@240V element, which draws 12.5A max on a 240V circuit (less on a lower voltage circuit) on a 15A branch circuit. You will not be operating continuously at max power, so your average current draw would be significantly less than 13.5A.

Brew on

 

[Pozzi]

For fairly simple designs, like the one you are using, you can often get by without actually having bus strips. Just daisy chain the connections from one component to another by placing two wires on one terminal. For more complex designs, using terminal strips can simplify the original wiring, and especially any maintenance/troubleshooting. There are several different types of terminal strips available, and the most important thing is that the terminals are an appropriate size for the wires or connectors you are using. Many terminal strips require jumper links to tie pairs of terminals together to make a multi-terminal bus.

I'm not familiar with the Berm PIDs, but you need to make sure that the model you choose has a manual mode in addition to PID mode. You need manual mode to set the power at specific levels to control the boil vigor you desire. PID mode is very bad at controlling boil vigor.

A 220 - 240V pump is going to take less than 1A, and the PID will take only a few milliamps, so you should be ok with up to a 3000W@240V element, which draws 12.5A max on a 240V circuit (less on a lower voltage circuit) on a 15A branch circuit. You will not be operating continuously at max power, so your average current draw would be significantly less than 13.5A.

Brew on

Thanks, I found a few small terminal strip's that will work. I'm going to get them just for the sake of testing to see how neat and professional I can get the wiring.

The PID does have both auto and manual mode, with a separate display specifically for the % setting in manual.

I actually found a 2500w element that will work perfectly with my plan, I'm trying to keep the 20% headroom just for safety sake. I tested the power here today and it's 220v supply as well as the element being rated at 220v 2500w.

Is that an RV in your profile pic? One day I'm planning on building a 14 when I can!

 

[doug293cz]

Is that an RV in your profile pic? One day I'm planning on building a 14 when I can!

Yes, it's an RV-12, which falls under Light Sport rules. I did not build it, but rather bought a completed aircraft.

Brew on

 

[Pozzi]

Yes, it's an RV-12, which falls under Light Sport rules. I did not build it, but rather bought a completed aircraft.

Brew on

I have heard they are amazing planes! I'm just a bit tall I think, I'm 6'5" so I need a bit of shoulder and leg room, but I want something aerobatic and ifr capable. One day I will do it.

 

[doug293cz]

I have heard they are amazing planes! I'm just a bit tall I think, I'm 6'5" so I need a bit of shoulder and leg room, but I want something aerobatic and ifr capable. One day I will do it.

The RV-12 is a fun little airplane. Easy to fly and land, but you do feel all of the bumps due to very light wing loading. Trues out at about 110 kts, at about 4.5 gal/hr. Visibility is fantastic, as you sit forward of the wing spar. Mine has all electric panel (Dynon) with 2-axis autopilot.

Yeah, the 12 is not aerobatic, but can be made IFR capable (mine's not.) 6'5" probably won't fit.

Brew on

 

[Pozzi]

The RV-12 is a fun little airplane. Easy to fly and land, but you do feel all of the bumps due to very light wing loading. Trues out at about 110 kts, at about 4.5 gal/hr. Visibility is fantastic, as you sit forward of the wing spar. Mine has all electric panel (Dynon) with 2-axis autopilot.

Yeah, the 12 is not aerobatic, but can be made IFR capable (mine's not.) 6'5" probably won't fit.

Brew on

I really love the RV series in general, they make fantastic aircraft. I have already built mine several times in my head and on paper, I think it's the best bang for buck piston single available. For my wife and myself I think the 14 will be perfect.

I'm planning on going to the states next year to convert my ATPL to FAA ATPL and I'm trying to time it with air venture so we can spend a couple days there, maybe get a test flight with vans if possible.

 

[doug293cz]

I really love the RV series in general, they make fantastic aircraft. I have already built mine several times in my head and on paper, I think it's the best bang for buck piston single available. For my wife and myself I think the 14 will be perfect.

I'm planning on going to the states next year to convert my ATPL to FAA ATPL and I'm trying to time it with air venture so we can spend a couple days there, maybe get a test flight with vans if possible.

If you haven't been to Air Venture, it's definitely worth a visit. I drove (900 mi each way) several times in the mid 1990's, and finally flew my RV-12 there in 2019 (~2000 mi each way, I moved across the country.) Flew over the Cascades and Rocky Mountains.

Brew on