Natural gas brew stand - 23 tip burner to 10 tip conversion build.

[poster72]

i have the burners from agrisupply, same thing as the banjo burners. Part is BG14 from agrisupply.

the adapters from williams brewing for NG do fit these burners. I have two burners and the adapters, but unfortunately have not hooked up yet.

I hear they work very well on low pressure NG with the adapter

 

[Raider-11]

I made a new burner stand that was modeled off of this thread but since I have a good friend that manages a plumbing supply business, I came up with a half insane pipe based stand for my natural gas burner. The burner itself was a piece of cake to deal with... a utility hose, the right fittings and about 1 hour later I've got 3 psi of natural gas on my front porch where I've always wanted to do my brewing. This burner as it is set up has more than enough variability which I know has been a concern for some. I quadruple seasoned an aluminum pot to be my new HLT and I could bring it to near scortching in 5 mins or 30 mins or anywhere in between. I should also say that IMO stainless steel zip ties make mounting the burner and flashing to the stand a breeze.

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Why did you use pipe dope on the pot stands pipe threads and if the pipes get hot, pressure may build up inside and maybe cause an explosive failure.

 

[ajwillys]

They are the same burners at Agri Supply. I got mine at Williams because I wanted the stand, the Propane regulator, and the NG conversion valve. If you are putting them in a brewstand, I can understand getting the "naked" burners but doesn't everyone else need a stand? I suppose some people make them.

 

[infection]

will that burner work just fine installed on a low pressure ng line?

-=jason=-

When I was looking to but 3 burners for my NG rig, I priced out the agri supply burner and the same burner at Northern brewer, the ones at northern brewer come with the oriface that are designed for propane; but you can drill out the oriface to use it with NG, (the agri supply burners do not come with an oriface) so when you factor in having to buy the orifaces, and the shipping; the norther brewer deal is cheaper ($7.99 flat rate shipping for all 3 burners)

 

[poster72]

the agrisupply burners DO come with an orifice, or at least mine did. Cant say, but im sure its propane. i bought the williams NG conversions for mine and still have the old orifices and could take a peak if its bigger or smaller (assuming thats the difference in them)

 

[infection]

the agrisupply burners DO come with an orifice, or at least mine did. Cant say, but im sure its propane. i bought the williams NG conversions for mine and still have the old orifices and could take a peak if its bigger or smaller (assuming thats the difference in them)

there is a post around here somewhere that someone called agri supply and they said that they didn't come with the orifices......but the guy at agri might have not known what he was talking about

the propane orifices are really small, I just progressively drilled mine a little at a time and reinstalled each time till the flame looked good on the NG

 

[Zaphod42]

The pipe work for my stand is all one continuous chamber inside all of the pipe. All you need to do is make sure there is at least one hole in just one section of pipe to let air expand and contract out of and its all good. What you saw there was high temperature epoxy anyway. That is just there to make me feel better. It probably does not function in any important way.

 

[Raider-11]

OK check this idea out, I can not experiment with this as I do not have a jet burner but what if you put a T-fitting in the pipe going to the burner and plum in air from a air compressure controlled with a air pressure regulator as Im thinking that the in surtin setups not enough air is getting to the lower part of the burner tip.

 

[keithster]

I did a lot of research and found myself looking at this forum quite a bit.

My frame is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square steel. I used a gas tube instead of running a gas line. The three jet burners, natural gas, work great. In fact once the wort is at a boil I turn it very low to maintain the boil. The electrical is run from the flush mounted receptical, thru a keyed switch, to the switches for each pump. The keyed switch is so if I leave it plugged in the kids or animals wont accidently hit a switch and run a pump when it's dry.

Working at an aerospace company, for an owner that loves beer, allowed me to design and build stainless lines for the entire system. With a boatload of small tri-clover fittings, gave to be by Mark at Oceanside Ale Works, I ended up with a system that should last a lifetime.

I also built a heat exchanger by running a 5/8" line thru a 1 1/4" line and then making a "coil". I circulate water from the HLT in the big line, the wort circs in the small line, so I don't need a coil inside the HLT to control the mash temp. When the boiling is done I run tap water thru the big line, wort thru the small, and it takes it down to about 80.

There are sampling valves that can be opened to allow the pump to prime itself and take small samples from while brewing.

Wheels on one side makes moving it "easier" (it's heavy) like a wheel barrel.

I usuall do 20 gal batches but can go down to 10. Was thinking about getting some 55 gallon stainless drums for bigger batches.....

Thanks to everyone that has posted on here. It's been a tremendous help and hopefully these pics might inspire some new designs and ideas as well.

 

[EarthBound]

I did a lot of research and found myself looking at this forum quite a bit.

My frame is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square steel. I used a gas tube instead of running a gas line. The three jet burners, natural gas, work great. In fact once the wort is at a boil I turn it very low to maintain the boil. The electrical is run from the flush mounted receptical, thru a keyed switch, to the switches for each pump. The keyed switch is so if I leave it plugged in the kids or animals wont accidently hit a switch and run a pump when it's dry.

Working at an aerospace company, for an owner that loves beer, allowed me to design and build stainless lines for the entire system. With a boatload of small tri-clover fittings, gave to be by Mark at Oceanside Ale Works, I ended up with a system that should last a lifetime.

I also built a heat exchanger by running a 5/8" line thru a 1 1/4" line and then making a "coil". I circulate water from the HLT in the big line, the wort circs in the small line, so I don't need a coil inside the HLT to control the mash temp. When the boiling is done I run tap water thru the big line, wort thru the small, and it takes it down to about 80.

There are sampling valves that can be opened to allow the pump to prime itself and take small samples from while brewing.

Wheels on one side makes moving it "easier" (it's heavy) like a wheel barrel.

I usuall do 20 gal batches but can go down to 10. Was thinking about getting some 55 gallon stainless drums for bigger batches.....

Thanks to everyone that has posted on here. It's been a tremendous help and hopefully these pics might inspire some new designs and ideas as well.

Nice system, man!

It's a thing of beauty.

I'm diggin the SS lines - must be nice to work for your company.

Is that chiller a CFC? I've never seen anything like it. My CFC gets it to about 80, as well. It's nice not having to circulate the wort and just having it go from boiling temps to pitching temps.

You have a plug in the square tubing? There's something else I haven't seen before...

 

[keithster]

It is nice to work there.

It is a CFC but I use it for chilling and controlling the mash temp. I figured if you can run cold water thru the jacket line to cool it, why can't you run hot water thru it to keep it hot? Before I recurculated the wort thru a coil that sat inside my HLT. I wanted to take it out of the HLT and came up with the coil you see. Since stainless isn't a great temp conducter like copper I went with a wall thickness of .022 for the small line that runs thru the larger line.

The square plug was taken from an old computer power supply and I'm using a computer power cord. That way no one will borrow the extension cord for something else I wanted an electrical hook up that was clean and not something that was hanging off.

I checked out your pics. Nice setup you have going on! I'm going to work on my cold room today and hook up the electronics. I have a two chamber cabinet that is going to be hooked up to a chest freezer. The top is cabinet is going to be the "serving" chamber with the kegs and taps. The bottom is going to be the fermentation chamber. I'll try to post some pics later today.

How well does your plastic conical work? Any contamination issues? I have one as well but a little nervous to use it for the first time. I like your stand. I'll have to weld up some leg extensions for mine. I also have some sankey kegs and large stainless conical cones. I was thinking of cutting those up and building some fermentors.

The switch is green when the pump is running, red when it is off (but has power) Notice the sampling valves, they also prime pump.

Gas tube

Notice union joint. Plan is to purchase a set of propane burners so they can be easily switched out if I take the stand somewhere and have to bring my own fuel.

Hooked up to house gas. They all burn just fine and are easy to control.

 

[EarthBound]

It is nice to work there.

It is a CFC but I use it for chilling and controlling the mash temp. I figured if you can run cold water thru the jacket line to cool it, why can't you run hot water thru it to keep it hot? Before I recurculated the wort thru a coil that sat inside my HLT. I wanted to take it out of the HLT and came up with the coil you see. Since stainless isn't a great temp conducter like copper I went with a wall thickness of .022 for the small line that runs thru the larger line.

The square plug was taken from an old computer power supply and I'm using a computer power cord. That way no one will borrow the extension cord for something else I wanted an electrical hook up that was clean and not something that was hanging off.

I checked out your pics. Nice setup you have going on! I'm going to work on my cold room today and hook up the electronics. I have a two chamber cabinet that is going to be hooked up to a chest freezer. The top is cabinet is going to be the "serving" chamber with the kegs and taps. The bottom is going to be the fermentation chamber. I'll try to post some pics later today.

How well does your plastic conical work? Any contamination issues? I have one as well but a little nervous to use it for the first time. I like your stand. I'll have to weld up some leg extensions for mine. I also have some sankey kegs and large stainless conical cones. I was thinking of cutting those up and building some fermentors.

The switch is green when the pump is running, red when it is off (but has power) Notice the sampling valves, they also prime pump.

Gas tube

Notice union joint. Plan is to purchase a set of propane burners so they can be easily switched out if I take the stand somewhere and have to bring my own fuel.

Hooked up to house gas. They all burn just fine and are easy to control.

You have a lot going on here! Excellent work, really. If I may, I'd like to suggest that you create a thread for this brewstand. It deserves so much more attention than what this thread can provide. I mean, you've created a hybrid heat exchanger! I've honestly never heard of such a thing. I plan on doing a NG/LPG hybrid upgrade, too. I'm really intereseted in your fermentation design as I am designing one, as well.

 

[camus]

You have a lot going on here! Excellent work, really. If I may, I'd like to suggest that you create a thread for this brewstand. It deserves so much more attention than what this thread can provide. I mean, you've created a hybrid heat exchanger! I've honestly never heard of such a thing. I plan on doing a NG/LPG hybrid upgrade, too. I'm really intereseted in your fermentation design as I am designing one, as well.

+1, very nice keithster, very clean, really would like some more documentation on the build.

 

[Raider-11]

Judging by all the problems people seem to be having with the jet burners I think I'll be staying with the banjo burners for my single tier brew stand build, less noise, better control and heaver?

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

Bringing up an old thread but I have now used my natural gas stand 3 times and love it! The first time is used it I kept all 23 tips, mistake. I didn't like the one on the OP because it wasn't spread out enough so I did my own version and have no issues with lighting all the tips at once.

 

[lawngnomehitman]

I bought this burner, but due to negative opinion about it, I may pass on installing it. What would you suggest that can boil 6-15 gallons in < 30 minutes, and can be regulated easily once at boil? It needs to be natural gas, and beyond that, as long as it can get my wort up to temp in a reasonable amount of time, I'm happy.

 

[KartRacer54]

Well actually I picked up three of the 32 tip burners.I have done a test burn and they look good.
I have installed them on my gravity three tier and plumbed them for hookup to outside gas valve.
If I blew it, I'll admit it, but have three brews coming up next week. If it bombs, then I have a hell of lot a work to do

Oh forgot, used 1/2" ID copper and black pipe.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

For those who have this burner:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JXYQ4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

is it safe to assume that Hurricane burner NG conversion would work? They list the BG14 and it appears this uses the BG12. I am assuming it uses the same 1/4" NPT.

Honestly, I plan to drill out the existing orifice to 3/32", test then 1/8" and test. If that all works I will just add ball valve for adjustment and ...you guess it, test. In the end I am assuming the burner will do what I need on NG if a bit slowly.

 

[develope32]

I ended up using Bobby_M's design but with 17 jets, blocking the center four and two others. I have no problems with using a pilot light and not having all jets light as long as my kettle in on the stand when the jets light off. Take it off and not all jets light up.

I also fought orange sooty flames by trying various heights of the burner. Nothing worked until I put a couple of angle irons on top of the stand and set the kettle on them. I have wider kettles (Megapot) and I believe they block enough of the side area that the CO2 cushion Bobby_M talks about develops very quickly underneath the kettle. Raising the kettle an inch or so provided enough vent area that everything works fine.

My NG supply is half inch and I have a regulator dropping the pressure to 3.5 pounds. I also have a ball valve downstream of the control solenoid.

More pics. I've having gas problems with my brutus and have the same burners. The link would work too. Thanks in advance.

 

[HausBrauerei_Harvey]

hi guys sorry if this has been covered here, I didn't read the entire thread. I am in the first steps of designing a natural gas powered brew room with a 3-tier gravity feed system. I was going to set the HLT burner on a cabinet I build (nonflammable top). Thus I only need a standard burner stand for these high BTU wok burners, I dont need an elaborate metal 3-tier stand for the whole setup. E.g. It would be perfect if I could swap out the burners from my blichmann propane burner for these NG wok burners. I know that could work but is NOT economical.

Are there any cheap stand options out there that I can mount one of these burners in, or will I have to make a simple stand from some tube steel or something?

Thanks for your help!

 

[bredle]

Reviving an old thread. I just bought this burner to use with the natural gas connection on my patio. I'm going to plug the outside tips (mentioned above) and give it a shot. It won't mount to my Dark Star - so I'll have to figure out another way, but have some ideas based on this thread. Lots of good info - if anyone else has photos of how they mounted (or what did or didn't work) - feel free to post.

Again - great thread!