Native ESP8266 BrewPi Firmware - WiFi BrewPi, no Arduino needed!
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Fermentrack supports temperature controllers and gravity sensors independently (so you can track gravity without controlling temperature, for example). It also allows you to “pair” a gravity sensor to a temperature controller so you can track both together.
You have paired that gravity sensor to a temperature controller.
While the gravity sensor is paired, its logging status is determined by the temperature controller. To start logging, go to the temperature controller and start the controller logging.
Thanks for that. I can see now that the gravity is showing in the temp controllers graph.
The "other times its says Ïdling for 1hr42mins even though the fridge is still running" seems wrong.
Did this system ever work correctly? I would check the polarity of the actuators to make sure an inversion wasn't missed...
Cheers!
Did this system ever work correctly? I would check the polarity of the actuators to make sure an inversion wasn't missed...
Cheers!
It seems to be holding temp correctly and working fine. I’ve never checked it with a probe but the samples feel about right when I taste them. So is the actuators just the polarity of the red and black wires on the one wire probes?
In the classic BrewPi environment, gpios that control things like relays (or SSRs) can be inverted to accommodate the particular actor (like a relay that closes its NO points with a low control input). If one were to use such a relay module for controlling a compressor without the inverted control signal the relay would close its NO points and run the fridge/freezer when the program actually meant that function to be inactive/idle...
Cheers!
Cheers!
But wouldn’t that mean when it said cooling or heating it wouldn’t be? Because currently when it says cooling the fridge is on and when it says heating the heating belt is on. And it’s holding temp correctly. I’ve just noticed that when it says idling the fridge might still be on.
My probes aren’t set as inverted in fermentrack. How do I check polarity? Is it as I said earlier? Cheers for the help?
Carlosprite
Member
Has anyone built a controller to replace the Ssbrewtech ftss/stc while keeping the 12v pump and heater pad, for use with a glycol chiller?
This is my latest project, but I’m a bit stuck on which way to go in regards to relays/mosfet/ssr.
Need to have 12v and 5v power for the wemos d1/Thorrak board, while keeping it a smallish form factor.
This is my latest project, but I’m a bit stuck on which way to go in regards to relays/mosfet/ssr.
Need to have 12v and 5v power for the wemos d1/Thorrak board, while keeping it a smallish form factor.
OK, that's clearer. Yes, if a control is inverted both the on and off behavior would be reversed, so that's not likely the problem.
Does your relay have LED indicator(s) for the relay state (generally, on when active)? If so, check the Cool relay LED next time you notice the fridge running when Fermentrack says it's idling. That would allow differentiation between a stuck Cool relay (LED is off but fridge is running) or some unexpected Fermentrack behavior (claims Idle state but is enabling the Cool relay).
I'm still fully BrewPi "classic" and have never run Fermentrack, but if the gui is similar you'd find the polarity settings for all devices in the Maintenance panel under Device Configuration...
Cheers!
Thanks, Ill check out the relay but I dont think it has LEDs. I can change a setting in fermentrack to make the temp probes inverted. But how do I actually check their polarity? Is it as I said earlier?
The Sainsmart 2-channel relay board does have little LED's on it, although you'd not be the first to be surprised by that if that's what you are running.
He's not talking about the temp probes being inverted, he's talking about the actuators (relays). "Inverted" is the classic setup where the pin pulls the circuit low (creates a ground) to activate the relay.
This is an Arduino but the circuit is the same, just pay attention to the D5/6 connections, power to the relay, and the jumper on the other relay pins:
(Yes, 100amps is helping me with some new graphics, this is a draft so don't squirrel it away. Thanks @100amps!)
He's not talking about the temp probes being inverted, he's talking about the actuators (relays). "Inverted" is the classic setup where the pin pulls the circuit low (creates a ground) to activate the relay.
This is an Arduino but the circuit is the same, just pay attention to the D5/6 connections, power to the relay, and the jumper on the other relay pins:
(Yes, 100amps is helping me with some new graphics, this is a draft so don't squirrel it away. Thanks @100amps!)
I am using this relay here. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5V-2-Wa...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I think it must be working correctly. The correct wires go to the correct pins on the relay from D5 and D6. When it says its cooling the fridge is on. When it says its heating the heating belt comes on. Last night I increased the temp from 17.5 to 18.5 C to finish off fermentation and the heating came on for a good hour as it climbed up in temp.
This morning though I noticed the fridge and the heat belt were both on. Does that sound right where it might be heating the fermenter up from its reading on the beer temp probe but at the same time running the fridge to cool it down from the fridge probe?
I have to confess I havent bothered setting up a fan and a heater in the bottom yet like you advised me to. I need to get onto that.
Cheers.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
You did break the jumper tab on the socket between the hot and cold plugs ?
I thought ^that^, but it would cause both heater and compressor to be on whenever either was called for. I'm not sure that's been declared as of yet.
And I wonder how the OP knows "I noticed the fridge and the heat belt were both on" if not by observing the LEDs on the relay module. I imagine a heat belt might feel still-warm-to-the-touch even after the controller has turned the power off and has switched the cool function on.
fwiw, on that relay module, DS1 and DS2 are LEDs. And as the module spec states it's low-active, the LED for each channel should be lit when function is active via Fermentrack control...
Cheers!
And I wonder how the OP knows "I noticed the fridge and the heat belt were both on" if not by observing the LEDs on the relay module. I imagine a heat belt might feel still-warm-to-the-touch even after the controller has turned the power off and has switched the cool function on.
fwiw, on that relay module, DS1 and DS2 are LEDs. And as the module spec states it's low-active, the LED for each channel should be lit when function is active via Fermentrack control...
Cheers!
You are right and it may be that the heating belt still had residual heat in it. I dont have the cover on my controller box as Im using it wired to a bread board until my PCB arrives. I did see an LED lit up on the relay board last night but was on my way out so didnt get a chance to look at it properly.
I will perform some tests tonight looking at the LEDs to check they light up seperately.
Cheers gents
I then set the temp to 30C and the heater cut in.
Then I changed it to 0C and it came up with "heating time left" or similar and started counting down from about 1m30 to 0. Then the fridge came on and the heater also stayed on and it said "Wait to cool 9m" and started counting down again even though both the fridge and heater was on.
Then I changed it to 0C and it came up with "heating time left" or similar and started counting down from about 1m30 to 0. Then the fridge came on and the heater also stayed on and it said "Wait to cool 9m" and started counting down again even though both the fridge and heater was on.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
How do you have the relays wired up? They don't look they are wired the same as the diagram in post-2613. Can you draw out a wiring diagram the way you have things connected and post it?
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
I think this is how it should be .I would wait and see what the experts say.
Oh ohh. Your right. My power supply goes into the bottom pins on the relays(when looking at the diagram in post 2613) and the middle pins carry the power to the heating socket and the cooling socket. Opposite to what that diagram shows.
So I rewired it and I suppose its working but its no different to how it was before. I set temp at 19C and the heater comes on. I then set temp at 2C and the fridge comes on but it says "waiting to cool" and the heater stays on and it starts counting down from 9 mins. Is it supposed to do that? I assume once the count down finishes the heater switches off.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
That should work. I have a bad feeling you french fried your relay and they are both stuck in the on position
Before going any further, please verify the polarity settings for both Cool and Heat functions, as there should never be the case where both LEDs are on...
Cheers!
Cheers!
toadyus
Well-Known Member
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Are there any power indicator LEDs on the relays?
toadyus
Well-Known Member
No, but they could be added but would also require more parts / room. As you would need two additional resistors, two PC817's and two led's.
Both LEDs arent always on. When it says cooling just the cooling relay is on. When its says heating just the heating relay is on. Only both relays are on when it says idling or waiting to cool/waiting to heat.
When you say polarity Im confused as its AC current going through the relay? Can you please explain what you mean?
They arent both always on though. They do switch between the heating and cooling relay depending on what its set on. It just switches both on for awhile when I change the temp to either hotter or cooler. Then it says waiting to cool/heat. It also has them both on for a bit when it says idling. Makes no sense to me at all.
Last night I went to bed with the temp set at 18.5C and this morning it was reading a beer temp of 18.5C so its actually working fine. I just dont get why it has both heat and cool on at the same time.
The relays are controlled by GPIO. The state of each of the two GPIO lines can be either HIGH = RELAY ON, or LOW = RELAY ON. The latter case is considered "INVERTED", but it is actually the typical usage model as most relay modules are LOW = RELAY ON.
As I said, I don't run Fermentrack, so I cannot testify that it would never turn both COOL and HEAT actuators on during an IDLE condition.
I can say BrewPi never, ever behaves in that manner.
What I would be suspicious of is that both GPIOs are set to Non-Inverted (ie: HIGH = RELAY ON) but the COOL GPIO is hooked to the HEAT relay and the HEAT GPIO is hooked to the COOL relay.
But if that isn't the case then the culprit would appear to be Fermentrack...
Cheers!
Get out your voltage meter. If you don't have one, get one for cheap at your local electronics store.
The voltage that switches the relays is DC. The relay is switching an AC circuit. There's a pretty big difference.
The voltage that switches the relays is DC. The relay is switching an AC circuit. There's a pretty big difference.
I was just logging in to say what @day_trippr said. Both your actuators are reversed and the heat/cool are swapped. That would make both turn on when idling, and control (semi) correctly.
Basically, instead of idling you are heating AND cooling.
Swap pins for heat and cool, and invert actuators.
Basically, instead of idling you are heating AND cooling.
Swap pins for heat and cool, and invert actuators.
I actually have 3 multi meters as I build guitar tube amps when Im not brewing beer. But all this stuff is new to me, but yeah I get it now were talking about the polarity of the DC that switches the relay?
Correct. And your relay module was designed such that a LOW control input results in an "active" relay, with the corresponding LED lighting and the Normally Open ("NO") contacts becoming closed...
Cheers!
Cheers!
In fermentrack I had the option to set them as inverted but I didnt. Is that what you mean? I should have set it as inverted?
Okay so swap the pins on the relay as circled '(or the Wemos end) and then set the probes to inverted in Fermentrack? Just making sure Ive got this correct?
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