My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...

[rico567]

.....or not even cut the head off. I just use a 13mm socket on the bolt, with an adapter to my drill, and crush away!

As for the adjustment matters in "stuntmantoo"'s post, with me it was pure experimentation, with a look at some of the pix you will see posted elsewhere in this thread. My first crush was definitely on the light side, although the beer, which I just tasted will be fine- call it an Ed Wort's Haus Pale Ale "Light." I then cranked down on the Corona / Victoria / Grizzly's adjustment screw (with some encouragement from "wilserbrewer") until I was scared, then I tightened it a bit more. Now I'm hitting the Brix numbers on the refractometer with no problem at all.

Glad to see there are other "Ugly Junkers" out there who are discovering crushing on the cheap......

 

[MVKTR2]

If it is a corona you are talking about then all you do is remove the handle and place a properly sized bolt into it and cut off the head.

I'm guessing the handle screws in clock-wise & is turned clockwise to crush. To remove the handle you'd unscrew it by turning it counter-clockwise?

Thanks,
Phillip

 

[rico567]

The handle just fits over the auger shaft, and is held in place by the supplied bolt. To drive it with my drill, I just put the crank handle and bolt supplied with the mill aside, and went to the hardware store and got the proper bolt. It IS a metric bolt, I think about .125 thread pitch, but I took the supplied bolt to the hardware store to make the comparison so I'd be sure to get a bolt with the correct threads. I got a bolt that's about 2", that way it sticks out of the side of the bucket sufficiently for my 13mm socket operation.

 

[boo boo]

I used the drill for a little while and felt it was turning over faster than I really wanted, so I removed the bolt a put the handle back. I don't mind handcranking a 5 gallon batch of beer. I like to RDWHAHB when brewing, so I take my time and enjoy all the process.

 

[Stuntman]

.....or not even cut the head off. I just use a 13mm socket on the bolt, with an adapter to my drill, and crush away!

As for the adjustment matters in "stuntmantoo"'s post, with me it was pure experimentation, with a look at some of the pix you will see posted elsewhere in this thread. My first crush was definitely on the light side, although the beer, which I just tasted will be fine- call it an Ed Wort's Haus Pale Ale "Light." I then cranked down on the Corona / Victoria / Grizzly's adjustment screw (with some encouragement from "wilserbrewer") until I was scared, then I tightened it a bit more. Now I'm hitting the Brix numbers on the refractometer with no problem at all.

Glad to see there are other "Ugly Junkers" out there who are discovering crushing on the cheap......

Hey Thanks Rico,
I was wondering how you guys were determining the percentage, now I know.


And "Holy Spent money Batman!"
138 bucks for a refractometer? That is fifteen gallons of Home Brew You guys are into this! (Hmmm, I need to post my first thread...."Can you RDWHAHB, when you spend 138 bucks to see what the 30 dollar grinder is doing?").

Oh did I say that out loud? I was just thinking that...


Shoot after I did a few batches years ago, I stopped using the Hydrometer!

Of course I will be watching EVERYTHING closer and try to keep it all uniform, so that my tweaks to the recipes from now on will be benenficial. Now that I am kicking it up a notch with AG.

 

[rico567]

Go on eBay and get your refractometer for less. I got mine from something like "Happy Fun Luck Trading Company of Hong Kong" (aka guess who) for $25 delivered. It works great. It costs more than a hydrometer, but it also does different things. Once I moved to AG, the refractometer became just as indispensable as the hydrometer has been all along.

Just be sure you get a refractometer that's designed to measure sucrose (0-32 Brix scale); there are a number of different kinds for sale by the same outfit. Brix is no problem; the easiest way (if not the most accurate) is to just mulitply the Brix X 4 to get an approximation of SG. There are plenty of calculators on-line that will do the exact conversion.

 

[Stuntman]

Cool, Thanks again Rico.

I better slow down, got the copper to go get today and make a manifold (decided thats the way I want go on the MT). Have to get a 50 lb bag of grain and the specialties, along with yeast and hops for first batch (have no ingredients, because I was kit brewing). Need a scale...sheez initially putting a bend on my credit card, but in the long run, good brew and saving money.

Next weekend I will get a free 5 gallon plastic water bottle for my hopper. Bro in law is having a poker party, and he has one in his attic, the grinder will then be set (I will make one out of paper if I get antsy and want to make my first batch before then).

But twenty five is reasonable for an added item to keep me uniform on brews.
Thanks again

 

[MVKTR2]

The handle just fits over the auger shaft, and is held in place by the supplied bolt. To drive it with my drill, I just put the crank handle and bolt supplied with the mill aside, and went to the hardware store and got the proper bolt. It IS a metric bolt, I think about .125 thread pitch, but I took the supplied bolt to the hardware store to make the comparison so I'd be sure to get a bolt with the correct threads. I got a bolt that's about 2", that way it sticks out of the side of the bucket sufficiently for my 13mm socket operation.

Thanks, that makes total sense!

I used the drill for a little while and felt it was turning over faster than I really wanted, so I removed the bolt a put the handle back. I don't mind handcranking a 5 gallon batch of beer. I like to RDWHAHB when brewing, so I take my time and enjoy all the process.

I'll probably give it a try hand cranking to get a feel for operating it on an upcoming batch of ordinary bitter, small grain amount , then switch over to my electric drill with variable speed so it doesn't grind too fast.

Schlante,
Phillip

 

[phatuna]

For the life of me, I can't get the grinder plates to align correctly. I've installed the screw in place of the pin and I think that made it worse. Now I can't get the screw out. I've messed with this thing for a couple of hours and just can't get it.

Is it a matter of tweaking with it more? Or, when everyone else put the screw in, it magically aligned the grinder plates??

 

[Synovia]

For the life of me, I can't get the grinder plates to align correctly. I've installed the screw in place of the pin and I think that made it worse. Now I can't get the screw out. I've messed with this thing for a couple of hours and just can't get it.

Is it a matter of tweaking with it more? Or, when everyone else put the screw in, it magically aligned the grinder plates??

I had to take the augur out and sand down the end of it to get the plate even close to flat.

The end of my augur had probably a 15 degree slant to it.

 

[phatuna]

Synovia, I think that is my problem too. My rotating plate (is that the auger?) looks to be slanted on one side like you are saying..

 

[rico567]

My rotating plate is slanted, too......seems to be a common condition, and putting a proper bolt in there so the plate doesn't flop around doesn't seem to remove it. OTOH, I didn't bother to try to fix it, I just cranked down the adjustment screw until I was getting a crush that conformed to some of the pictures on line, and have been getting good conversion / efficiencies ever since. I'm not going to worry about it.

 

[phatuna]

thanks Rico, I'm gonna join you on that one. I messed with mine again today and the plate is crooked. I don't have a grinder to try to deal with it so I'm just gonna, deal with it...
On my first crush (yesterday), I got 68% and I'm pretty happy about that. I'll crank it down another 1/4 turn or so and go at it again. See if I can get into the 70's or 80's like the big boys and girls.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I messed with mine again today and the plate is crooked.

Phatuna,

I fiddled w/ mine to true up the grinding plate by fixing it on the shaft w/ JB weld. In hindsight, I'm not so sure this is really needed. If the grinding plate is crooked, yet able to "flop" around, I believe the pressure of the grain being crushed might just keep it true enough to get a nice crush.

I concur w/ your plan, just keep tightening the mill till all grains are crushed well. and no whole or largish pieces remain...I'm guesing that's pretty much all that's req'd.

good luck.
Mike

 

[Synovia]

My rotating plate is slanted, too......seems to be a common condition, and putting a proper bolt in there so the plate doesn't flop around doesn't seem to remove it. OTOH, I didn't bother to try to fix it, I just cranked down the adjustment screw until I was getting a crush that conformed to some of the pictures on line, and have been getting good conversion / efficiencies ever since. I'm not going to worry about it.

I sanded the end of the part of the augur that the plate sits against a bit, its better, but still not even close to on plane. Just tightened it down, and go to town. I've been getting 80%+ efficiency, and I'm pretty sure 100% conversion.

 

[rico567]

Looking good, "Synovia." I'm hitting my OGs right on the money, efficiency in the same range as yours. That's fine with me- some people appear to play a numbers game with the crushes, I'm just after good beer.

 

[MVKTR2]

Received my mill from discounttommy via ebay for less than $31 shipped on Friday. Got around to building my milling station today. Laid out the blueprint in between. I'm quite pleased and it's going to work wonderfully once I get my door in place, gotta get "tiny" hinges from the hardware store tomorrow. I'm also gonna need to add a piece of flexi-tubing to keep the grain from going everywhere. It's constructed out of 1/2" chip board. All seams are wood glued & nailed with 1.25"-1.5" finishing nails. The mill is mounted on a 2x2 (didn't have a 2x4 handy) which is held in place with 2 2.5" screws @ each end. I may add casters later, perhaps a coat of paint... what's important is that it works!!!

Here she is, I can give measurements, tools necessary, etc. if anyone likes and wants to build one... though it may be to perdy for this thread!

Inside view

Rear view showing bolt sticking out, hopper at top, & nails to hammer

Finger & Nail for scale

Schlante,
Phillip

 

[Stuntman]

For the life of me, I can't get the grinder plates to align correctly. I've installed the screw in place of the pin and I think that made it worse. Now I can't get the screw out. I've messed with this thing for a couple of hours and just can't get it.

Is it a matter of tweaking with it more? Or, when everyone else put the screw in, it magically aligned the grinder plates??

I used the same cotter pin, that came with it, I JB'ed it and tightened the rotating part to the stationary part, tight, and let it sit over night.


I have a Corona Knock off. Mine didn't get perfectly aligned either, but it is set to my two grains at the moment. There are no un crushed grain, and the husk look as if they were in three peices, not ground at all. I am happy. My first batch sure was smooth!

 

[LandofOZ]

come on now , you really didnt think the with the knockoff version the plates would be aligned, seriously. the guys used the original to mill to mill their grain for their beer. got drunk then made the knockoff version to support their hobby (obsession). any blind drunk fool can see that

 

[Stuntman]

come on now , you really didnt think the with the knockoff version the plates would be aligned, seriously. the guys used the original to mill to mill their grain for their beer. got drunk then made the knockoff version to support their hobby (obsession). any blind drunk fool can see that

Specially wen the Corona duzint lyn up ta start with, rite?

 

[MVKTR2]

I forgot to mention I removed my cotter pin and was WAY disappointed. I've removed many a cotter pin but none were as hard as this little devil. Once removed I could easily see why. The hole crilled through the shaft was off center. I had to machine a new hole transverse to the original. With patients etc. I was able to get it all back together after also "wallowing out" the grooves where the cotter pin/bolt are seated in the washer/disk thing.

Schlante,
Phillip

 

[Runyanka]

Just a little warning for all of you using these mills. I recently took mine apart, JB welded it and put the bolt through the auger. My plate was also slanted (and stuck that way). After about 3 batches, the auger snapped in half during milling, I believe this was do to the grain putting stress on the auger, since the rotating plate couldnt wobble. So, I am now trying to convice SWMBO to let me get another one, and this time I will not do that, just let me crush be what it is. After all, it will still be better than what I get from others. Poured a beer out (into my mouth) for my broken homie!

 

[RichBenn]

I went with the Discount Tommy/Victoria one as well. Doing some research, I found that there are at least 6 different manufacturers in China making Corona - like knockoffs. So the castings on these things differ.

The one I got has a terribly cocked removable plate and fixing nut(the one where the cotter pin goes through). The plate is crooked AND it is drilled off center. The casting on these parts, the ones that probably make the most difference in consistancy, are very poor IMHO.

I originally tried to grind away the surface of the plate fixing nut. But this just exposes some bare metal that gets black all over your hands. The final solution, for those who are stuck with this casting, was to put shims made of tin under the fixed and removable plate until one gets it relatively flat. I used a nail instead of the cotter pin, as it was impossible to get much else through with the shims in there. May drill it out, so I can use a nut and bolt.

Haven't tested yet, as I need some uncrushed grain...

 

[RighteousFire]

This is what mine looked like:

Then after reading this thread I used the brilliant idea from wilserbrewer.

Home Depot Homer Bucket @ 2.34 + Lid @ .98 + 30 minutes of my time = Awesomeness
Maybe I'll give it a sweet paint job.

 

[HSM]

Just a little warning for all of you using these mills. I recently took mine apart, JB welded it and put the bolt through the auger. My plate was also slanted (and stuck that way). After about 3 batches, the auger snapped in half during milling, I believe this was do to the grain putting stress on the auger, since the rotating plate couldnt wobble. So, I am now trying to convice SWMBO to let me get another one, and this time I will not do that, just let me crush be what it is. After all, it will still be better than what I get from others. Poured a beer out (into my mouth) for my broken homie!

How many are you going to buy before you get a barley crusher? Going cheap is good, going cheap again and again... is expensive.

 

[RichBenn]

How many are you going to buy before you get a barley crusher? Going cheap is good, going cheap again and again... is expensive.

I wouldn't go there again, at least based upon my individual experience. I have more time than money, but it's taken much too long to get there for me to think it's a valuable tradeoff, at this point.

The problem we all have when reviewing product is the emotional investment we have in our choices. Most do not want to admit to themselves they made a bad choice. I can assuage my bad own choice by blaming others. I followed "their" lead. Perhaps I should have adjusted everyone's experiences with this device downward before buying......

But then again, maybe there are better and worse ones. Are the original coronas much better? Are some clones better than others?

Rich

 

[Runyanka]

How many are you going to buy before you get a barley crusher? Going cheap is good, going cheap again and again... is expensive.

Until SWMBO says I can :cross:
No I just dont see why the most expensive piece of equipment I have to date should be the barley crusher. I mean I only paid $50 for mash tun, $50 for kettle, and $50 for burner. The only upside I see for buying an expensive grain mill is if you buy grains in bulk a lot (which I dont). 4 corona knockoffs is less than a barley crusher.

 

[wilserbrewer]

How many are you going to buy before you get a barley crusher? Going cheap is good, going cheap again and again... is expensive.

I honestly feel that my corona mill could crush another hundred sacks easily and produce fine results and be no less for wear and tear, not planning on getting a "barley crusher" or any other roller mill...for the life of me I can't understand how someone could snap the auger shaft in a corona mill, must have been the V-8 he was using to power the mill.

That being said, I do agree that these things are cast pieces of junk, but properly adjusted, I don't think wear is an issue at all!

Perhaps a good way to put it w/ these things is that the user is responsible for "fit and finish" final manufacturing...hah.

 

[Runyanka]

...for the life of me I can't understand how someone could snap the auger shaft in a corona mill, must have been the V-8 he was using to power the mill.

It snapped because I think the pressure of the grain on one side of the plate vs the other side was greater (due to the plate being fixed in place w/ jb weld and bolt). The funny thing is, I didnt even have it hooked up to a drill guess Ill have to dial the "guns" back a little next time :rockin:

 

[rico567]

All the "adjustment" I did to the mill itself (a "Victoria" knockoff from Discount Tommy) was to remove the cotter pin and redrill the hole the cotter pin goes in, then insert the duty 8-32 x 1.5" bolt & nut....I chose to use SS. After that, all I did was tighten down the adjustment bolt (with some coaching & cheerleading from "wilserbrewer") until I got a good crush. I'm there, getting good efficiencies (70-80%) and I couldn't be happier with "da junk."