My new RIMS control panel

[EvilBrewer]

And as others have said, use the outlet valve on your MLT to throttle wort flow, rather than the outlet valve on the pump.

Actually...scratch that. I was thinking of something else--you shouldn't use valves downstream of the pump to throttle flow bc it can put too much pressure on the tubing. Not valid in this case.

 

[alien]

SSRs...saw it mentioned already but yes it is there for the sake of the element. It can cut power on/off much faster than a contactor...and it is meant for doing just that.

This statement is not necessarily correct. Inside the SSR there is a triac that turns off only when the voltage next crosses zero, which may be up to 1/120 second for 60 Hz AC. Release times for solenoid relays and contactors vary but are typically in the range of milliseconds.

 

[Namako]

I think your questions have been answered by others but lemme know if anything was overlooked. Also here's my $0.02...

With a RIMS, the wort must always be flowing when the element is on...stopping the flow of wort can cause the "stationary" wort to boil inside the RIMS tube (not good) and unfortunately this can't be automated--ok...within reason. The RIMS won't have power when the pump is off, true...but you could have the pump on (and element activated) and accidentally leave one of the valves closed...hence stopping wort flow and boiling inside the tube. You can run the element dry in almost the same way. I did that on RIMS brew session #2...it sucked but luckily I had bought a backup element

And as others have said, use the outlet valve on your MLT to throttle wort flow, rather than the outlet valve on the pump.

SSRs...saw it mentioned already but yes it is there for the sake of the element. It can cut power on/off much faster than a contactor...and it is meant for doing just that.

I'm still wiring up my system, but I went on eBay and bought a stainless steel GEMS flow switch (FS-10798 Series) for $50. As long as I have 0.5 gallon/minute flow out of the RIMS (this is adjustable to 20 GPM) and through the switch, the switch will turn close, which in turn allows the heating element to turn on. No flow, no juice to the SSR that controls the RIMS. I'm using it to protect a 2000W/120VAC water heater element... And my wort.

 

[AuTrappiste]

Thanks for the help! I just ordered the bulk of my parts from Auberins. Looking forward to getting the parts.

 

[EvilBrewer]

I'm still wiring up my system, but I went on eBay and bought a stainless steel GEMS flow switch (FS-10798 Series) for $50. As long as I have 0.5 gallon/minute flow out of the RIMS (this is adjustable to 20 GPM) and through the switch, the switch will turn close, which in turn allows the heating element to turn on. No flow, no juice to the SSR that controls the RIMS. I'm using it to protect a 2000W/120VAC water heater element... And my wort.

I stand corrected

I've got to say, that's a great idea and I might need to copy it. I've already burned out one element and have come close to doing it again a couple of times.

I literally have "TURN OFF ELEMENT" written in huge bold font on my brew day sheet for the steps that involve transferring wort from MLT to kettle, ha.

...And yes I have a written procedure that I follow on brew day (and update regularly)...helps cut down on attention-deficit-related distractions when I've got 10 things going on at once!

 

[JayMac]

I stand corrected

I've got to say, that's a great idea and I might need to copy it. I've already burned out one element and have come close to doing it again a couple of times.

I literally have "TURN OFF ELEMENT" written in huge bold font on my brew day sheet for the steps that involve transferring wort from MLT to kettle, ha.

...And yes I have a written procedure that I follow on brew day (and update regularly)...helps cut down on attention-deficit-related distractions when I've got 10 things going on at once!

You mean during lautering that you burn out your element right? Not during recirc.

 

[EvilBrewer]

You mean during lautering that you burn out your element right? Not during recirc.

Yup. Did I say while recirculating? If so then it was in error. I burned out the element while transferring from MLT to kettle. So yeah while lautering or maybe the initial draining of MLT. I was batch sparging.

 

[JayMac]

Yup. Did I say while recirculating? If so then it was in error. I burned out the element while transferring from MLT to kettle. So yeah while lautering or maybe the initial draining of MLT. I was batch sparging.

You didn't, I was just making sure! I'm building a similar set up and that's why I made the comment. I'll learn from your mistakes

 

[Namako]

I stand corrected

I've got to say, that's a great idea and I might need to copy it. I've already burned out one element and have come close to doing it again a couple of times.

I literally have "TURN OFF ELEMENT" written in huge bold font on my brew day sheet for the steps that involve transferring wort from MLT to kettle, ha.

...And yes I have a written procedure that I follow on brew day (and update regularly)...helps cut down on attention-deficit-related distractions when I've got 10 things going on at once!

I've also experienced pump cavitation more than once... Everything looks to working, all the switches are set right, pump is on, but no flow. I figured a flow switch would at least keep me from boiling the wort in the RIMS, eventually burning out the element... And this 2000W puppy doesn't come cheap!!

 

[Ttownbrewer]

Anyway...I got just about all my parts from Auberins. Here you go:

Switches

SSR

Heat Sink

Temperature probe (with optional "deluxe" cable)

This is a great build, this thread has helped me piece together my build!

Can you lead me in the right direction for which contactors you ended up using?

Thanks, Ed

 

[JayMac]

This is a great build, this thread has helped me piece together my build!

Can you lead me in the right direction for which contactors you ended up using?

Thanks, Ed

It really just depends on what the amperage through your system is.

I only need the 30A contractor, but if you have two element on at the same time you will need 40-50A contractors

 

[Ttownbrewer]

It really just depends on what the amperage through your system is.

I only need the 30A contractor, but if you have two element on at the same time you will need 40-50A contractors

I'll be running 1 120v 2000w element, and a pump. I'm sure I only need the 30a contractor. My question is more on sourcing. The Auber contractor is much higher then something found on Amazon.

 

[JayMac]

I'll be running 1 120v 2000w element, and a pump. I'm sure I only need the 30a contractor. My question is more on sourcing. The Auber contractor is much higher then something found on Amazon.

I'd say the vast majority of people on here went with auber. You know the quality you are getting and where it was made.

For the $5 difference you will pay, I figure the auber product is more worthwhile. The auber one is only $16. Some of the Japanese/Chinese electronics have short lifetimes and a tendency to break down.

However, I'll let someone else make a recommendation. I have a feeling most will agree though!

 

[Ttownbrewer]

Great points JayMac! I'll go with all Auber for the electronics, the piece of mind is worth the extra $.

This is the contractor you're looking at right?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129

 

[JayMac]

Great points JayMac! I'll go with all Auber for the electronics, the piece of mind is worth the extra $.

This is the contractor you're looking at right?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129

That's it! From my experience they have great customer service but others have reported problems with them delivering when no one is there to accept the package. My recommendation is to put a comment giving permission for someone else other than the cardholder to sign, or make sure you are home when it arrives!

If you don't already have a sensor, or PID, or other electronics, get it from auber. Their RTD e/ deluxe cable is better than anything else I've sen on the market. They have a nice control box, PID's, illuminated push buttons, switches, relays, etc..

Not to sound like an Auber rep, but they are basically a one-stop place for your control box electronics. Give their site a thorough look.

Cheers

 

[theknub]

while i personally went with auber for many of the reasons listed above, an alternative is ebrewsupply http://www.ebrewsupply.com/

i have seen many reviews recently regarding the company and everyone has been loving them.

 

[EvilBrewer]

I'd say the vast majority of people on here went with auber. You know the quality you are getting and where it was made.

For the $5 difference you will pay, I figure the auber product is more worthwhile. The auber one is only $16. Some of the Japanese/Chinese electronics have short lifetimes and a tendency to break down.

However, I'll let someone else make a recommendation. I have a feeling most will agree though!

While I do agree, and in fact bought almost all of my components from Auber--I actually got my contactors from Amazon. I just searched for contactors with my required specs, and made sure they had decent reviews.

I don't remember why I didn't go with Auber; I suspect it was the price. I bought a couple spares so it might have exceeded my budget at the time.

 

[fur_252]

Doing this same RIMS Control Panel ordered everything besides the RIMS tube waiting for brewhardware to come out with there new RIMS tube and i still need to get the element. Went to boston heating supply website and was going to order the element but after finding out the shipping prices to Nebraska is USPS $32.20 and UPS $21.06 I would rather find a different supplier that wont bend me over....Has anyone else found the Rheem 120/2000w stainless steel element elsewhere????

 

[Ttownbrewer]

Doing this same RIMS Control Panel ordered everything besides the RIMS tube waiting for brewhardware to come out with there new RIMS tube and i still need to get the element. Went to boston heating supply website and was going to order the element but after finding out the shipping prices to Nebraska is USPS $32.20 and UPS $21.06 I would rather find a different supplier that wont bend me over....Has anyone else found the Rheem 120/2000w stainless steel element elsewhere????

I haven't found the same element anywhere other than boston heating, or another company that wanted more. I ended up paying the freight to Colorado. I'm sure there are equivalent elements out there though..

What are you going with for your electronics? I'm leaning toward Auber for most of them, but ebrewsupply also has a nice selection.

 

[fur_252]

I haven't found the same element anywhere other than boston heating, or another company that wanted more. I ended up paying the freight to Colorado. I'm sure there are equivalent elements out there though..

What are you going with for your electronics? I'm leaning toward Auber for most of them, but ebrewsupply also has a nice selection.[/QU

I went with Auber with everything besides the enclosure got that off of ebay it was 14H x 12w x 6d for $31 hopefully its not going to be to big. I liked the 8x8x6 and how compact it was, but i got larger bus bars that i got for free and evilbrewer said it was tight making all the connections in that box. I think im just going to bite the bullet and buy from boston heating. I just hope i dont burn the element out. Ttown you making your rims tube or buying one? How far are you into your project?

 

[EvilBrewer]

I'd recommend getting a replacement if you can swing it...that is, I'd buy two. You'll eventually need a new one (hopefully not right away like I did when I burned mine out). You'll save yourself the shipping overhead.

 

[fur_252]

I finally got around to wire my rims control panel. I still need to connect rtd probe and get name plates for the buttons. I just wanted to say thanks for everyone's input and info on this thread.

 

[EvilBrewer]

I finally got around to wire my rims control panel. I still need to connect rtd probe and get name plates for the buttons. I just wanted to say thanks for everyone's input and info on this thread.

Looks great! Cheers.

 

[Abhitchc]

Whats going on here? What part is this and how is it wired? I have seen these in a few of PJ's diagrams, but I have not figured out what they are. Sorry for the stupid question.

 

[fur_252]

Whats going on here? What part is this and how is it wired? I have seen these in a few of PJ's diagrams, but I have not figured out what they are. Sorry for the stupid question.

This is a solid state relay. PID sends dc voltage to the relay to open or close the switch. No question is a stupid question.

 

[Abhitchc]

Oh I see! I know what an SSR looks like, but not in wiring diagram form I guess. Thanks for the clarification, I am new to this stuff.

 

[EvilBrewer]

Oh I see! I know what an SSR looks like, but not in wiring diagram form I guess. Thanks for the clarification, I am new to this stuff.

Yeah I remember that threw me off when I was researching. I was completely new to wiring also. And I think I asked a question similar to yours at some point....good luck

 

[Abhitchc]

SWMBO is gonna be mad at me. I just bought all the supplies (minus the pump) to start this build. Thanks! :rockin:

Can someone point me in the right direction for the kind of female receptacles I need for both the pump and the element?

 

[fur_252]

SWMBO is gonna be mad at me. I just bought all the supplies (minus the pump) to start this build. Thanks! :rockin:

Can someone point me in the right direction for the kind of female receptacles I need for both the pump and the element?

About the female receptacle and what to get. It kinda matters what element u are going to use a 1500 watt element then you could get away with a 15 amp female receptacle. A 2000 watt element then you would want to go with a 20 amp female receptacle. I kind of went over board on my female receptacle and got a 30 amp from Home Depot this is what I got:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...et-Black-R50-07313-000/202066668#.Ud3-Usu9KSM

1500 watt element = 12.5 amps
2000 watt element = 16.67 amps

Female receptacle for the pump you can go with any 15 amp outlet. The pump shouldn't draw to many amps maybe a couple

 

[MikeyLikesIt70]

Pulling parts together for mine now. What gauge wire did you use? And what type of terminal strip is that on the inside right of your enclosure? Where did you get the enclosure?

Thanks!

I finally got around to wire my rims control panel. I still need to connect rtd probe and get name plates for the buttons. I just wanted to say thanks for everyone's input and info on this thread.