My glass stove-top sucks, looking for heating/boil upgrades (cheaper = better)

[hotbeer]

The house was built in 1996, not sure if the 120v lines support 1500 watts or 1800 watts. Is there a way to tell?

While maybe not true everywhere, my house was built in 1989 and even back then, at least here where I'm at, all the kitchen outlets had to be 20 amp service with 12-2 w/G wire. Certain outlets IE. Refrigerator, had to be single service only. Everything else in the house that wasn't special had to be at least 15 amp 14-2 w/G wire.

But check your breaker box as another advised. The amperage will be on the breaker. Turn off the breaker and make certain it actually controls that outlet. Sometimes home repairs or remodeling later change things and the breaker box doesn't get updated with new labeling.

Google up electricians in your area and call a few. You might find some that will run a line for you if it's needed. If your breaker box can handle another circuit it won't be too pricey. But well worth it as under capacity wiring isn't only dangerous. It can also cause the appliance to wear out quick or not operate properly.

 

[hotbeer]

Are you sure those expensive kettles and pots won't work on induction. Have you tried?

Yes. Sadly they don't work. The copper is a thick layer, the stainless a thin layer.

https://www.copperpans.com/classic-line
Got them over 20 years ago.

 

[mac_1103]

The house I bought in Phila in 1994 when I lived there was built in the 50s and still had a fuse box.

Well I've certainly seen 10A fuses.

But check your breaker box as another advised. The amperage will be on the breaker.

He says he already did and it's a 15A breaker.

My late 60s era kitchen was ridiculously under served. One 20A circuit for the fridge and two countertop outlets and one 15A circuit for the range hood and two other countertop outlets. I guess this wasn't an issue in a world without microwave ovens and countertop air fryers. I put off doing anything about it for years, but once I put in an over-the-range microwave I had no choice. So now the fridge and microwave are each on dedicated 20A lines and two of the countertop outlets are dedicated 15A lines while the other two are on a 20A branch circuit. It was all a lot easier than I thought it would be, and I kicked myself for not doing it much sooner.

 

[hotbeer]

Well I've certainly seen 10A fuses

I have too. But not in anything circa 1990 construction or later.

Full disclosure, I'm not a electrician. But I've been around them plenty. Hold my beer...

 

[day_trippr]

Code in MA now requires dedicated branches to fridges and dishwashers and everything in the kitchen needs arc fault/ground fault breakers. In fact there were so many wiring code updates since our house was built in the mid-70s that when we gutted out the kitchen we had to change out the original breaker box and run more branches. Pita I didn't see coming...

Cheers!

 

[mac_1103]

Code in MA now requires dedicated branches to fridges and dishwashers and everything in the kitchen needs arc fault/ground fault breakers.

I think everything in any living space requires arc fault protection now. But bathrooms are not specifically mentioned for some reason. Like a fire in your bathroom wiring is OK somehow?

I don't think refrigerators (or any other appliances specifically) require ground fault protection. But the receptacle that it's plugged into requires GFCI if it's within 6 feet of the sink. A nuisance trip on your refrigerator when you're on vacation is a real, well, nuisance. Ask me how I know.

 

[Jim R]

If I was brewing and boiling 5 gal batches inside, I would need to worry as much about the ventilation system as I would the heat source. I would need a commercial quality range hood vent for both the smell and the steam / moisture. I would rather just brew quickly outside with a super hot gas heater even in the winter.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

@BrewnWKopperKat you rock! Wow, what a difference that reflectix makes!!! I got 2 gallons boiling decently with no lid, and pictured below, 3 gallons boiling decently with a circular reflectix "topper". Just boiling water for the moment, to get timings and evaporation rates, the reflectix "topper" should be okay on top of boiling wort, shouldn't it? <EDIT>: It's NOT OKAY!!!

edit: in case anyone else ever buys a Walmart Marketplace 5.0 gallon stockpot (hey, it was $29, I couldn't refuse)...
Started with 2.0 gal water @ 70F, it took 22 minutes to reach 160F (close to most "strike" temps for biab), and another 20 minutes to go from 160F to 212F. Satisified with the boil I saw, decided to add another 1 gallon of (hot ~ 140F water) -- took about 15 minutes to bring the full 3 gal to a boil.

AFTER 30 minutes boiling (with the now discredited reflectix topper), I had turned 3.0 gal water to 2.4 gal water

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

...the reflectix "topper" should be okay on top of boiling wort...

LOL after finishing the 30 minute boil, I noticed that all the "silver bits" on the bottom of that topper had disappeared, and migrated to the bottom of the boil kettle.
So I'm going to go ahead and say: do NOT make a circular (and floating) "top" out of reflectix for your boil kettle! I'm going to try something similar but with just aluminum foil, will report back tomorrow night.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Also, I would think a reflectix "jacket" for EVERYONE'S pot is probably a great idea -- reduced the time it took to heat my water to boiling significantly (I'd say almost in half).

 

[IslandLizard]

Also, I would think a reflectix "jacket" for EVERYONE'S pot is probably a great idea -- reduced the time it took to heat my water to boiling significantly (I'd say almost in half).

Don't cover the boiling wort, although you could help keeping the wort hotter by putting the lid on part ways. You also do want to boil off a certain amount of water from your wort. It drives off DMS (the cooked cabbage smell) while increasing wort gravity.

Now covering the mash is a good idea. You can use aluminum foil for that, although it's not the best solution, LoDO wise.
Yeah, don't use silver flakes shedding Reflectix.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

I had a roughly 9" circle boil-top in my 11" diameter pot (or was it 10" and 12"), regardless, I'd think it let as much steam out as a partly covered lid. I boiled off very close to 0.5 gallons in 30 minutes doing this. (but see updated comment: the reflectix silver particles flaked off).

 

[IslandLizard]

I boiled off very close to 0.5 gallons in 30 minutes doing this.

Good! A gallon an hour boil-off is pretty much standard for 5-6 gallon all-grain batches.
I always kept the lid on part ways to keep the wort boiling, and getting the gallon boil-off. That was on the flat top radiant stove.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Using an IC3500 on a kitchen countertop has been working like a charm. I just open a window above it and put a box fan in it when brewing.

How many gallons can you boil (and in what sized pot) on that IC3500?

 

[IslandLizard]

How many gallons can you boil (and in what sized pot) on that IC3500?

I usually boil 7 gallons of wort in an 8 gallon kettle, using the IC3500. No insulation around the kettle and no lid. Running on full power (3500W).
But sometimes 12-13 gallon "double batches" in a 15 gallon kettle, just as well. But with insulation around the kettle, and the lid part ways on, plus a thick 2x folded-over towel on the lid.

 

[DBhomebrew]

I use first wort hops due to their ability to keep boilovers in check. As a secondary function, I find that the cover it creates acts like a lid. Once it starts breaking up later in the boil, I need to bump up the gas a bit to keep my boil steady.

A natural alternative to your reflectix topper?

 

[mac_1103]

So I'm going to go ahead and say: do NOT make a circular (and floating) "top" out of reflectix for your boil kettle!

Have you tried putting it on the top of the lid?

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

Have you tried putting it on the top of the lid?

The lid isn't flat, but the lid by itself does a decent enough job at keeping heat in (tho not nearly as well as the floating reflectix did).

As for using first-wort hoppage, I've never tried that. And I prefer using a hops bag in the boil, rather than trying to filter (or just dumping everything into the fermenter).

 

[Miraculix]

Also, I would think a reflectix "jacket" for EVERYONE'S pot is probably a great idea -- reduced the time it took to heat my water to boiling significantly (I'd say almost in half).

I'm gonna try that! Thanks!

 

[hotbeer]

I don't see an issue with your idea of floating something on top of the wort to hold in the heat. But since your reflectix lost some stuff that wen to the bottom are you sure it didn't also add something to the wort? Hopefully not toxic stuff.

Lids are a issue as they allow condensation to drip back into the pot. And from what I've read, it's that condensation that contains the stuff besides water that we want out of our wort.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

I don't see an issue with your idea of floating something on top of the wort to hold in the heat. But since your reflectix lost some stuff that wen to the bottom are you sure it didn't also add something to the wort? Hopefully not toxic stuff.

I was just boiling water, testing things out. Definitely glad it was just a test!

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Wow, what a difference that reflectix makes!!!

At a "Big Brew Day", back in the late 2010s (2018?), I chatted with a guy who was brewing a 5 gal batch on an induction cook top (outside, extension cord, so 120v, 1800w) with a very wrapped kettle. Yes, he said it was slow - but it can be done.

I would think a reflectix "jacket" for EVERYONE'S pot is probably a great idea -- reduced the time it took to heat my water to boiling significantly (I'd say almost in half).

With regard to hop steeps (and adding/removing insulation at the right times), one of the ideas I have "played with" is a variation on BBRs:

1. Using a wrapped kettle, bring the DME/LME to a boil,
2. turn off the heat, remove the insulation, add the hops
3. cool naturally to about 175F-ish
4. add the insulation, add the "hop steep hops", hold for about 30 minutes

The "hot steep" lost ~ 10F over 30 minutes. Targeting different temperatures in step 3 (perhaps 165F) would yield a different result.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

With regard to hop steeps (and adding/removing insulation at the right times), one of the ideas I have "played with" is a variation on BBRs:

1. Using a wrapped kettle, bring the DME/LME to a boil,
2. turn off the heat, remove the insulation, add the hops
3. cool naturally to about 175F-ish
4. add the insulation, add the "hop steep hops", hold for about 30 minutes

The "hot steep" lost ~ 10F over 30 minutes. Targeting different temperatures in step 3 (perhaps 165F) would yield a different result.

I feel like this is probably the sort of thing I should have learned by now, but what exactly do "hop steep hops" add, as opposed to flame-out hops, and dry hops?

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

what exactly do "hop steep hops" add, as opposed to flame-out hops, and dry hops?

Steeping hops in the 160F to 170F range will 'unlock' the flavors from the hop without adding much/any bitterness.

Dry hopping is similar: (slightly) different flavors, very little bitterness.

Flame-out hops will add bitterness while the wort is above about 170F. At these temperatures oils that contribute flavors are also 'boiled-off'.

 

[MaxStout]

After flameout I drop in the immersion chiller to sanitize it. That in itself drops the wort temp to below 180 or so. Then I add steeping hops and let it sit for maybe 20 minutes or so. After that I run the chiller then rack to fermenter.

 

[IslandLizard]

Has anyone mentioned using an All-in-One brew kettle/system?
They all seem to run well on 110V.

By setting the timer you can get the strike water preheated ahead of brew time.

Although I don't own one some of my brew friends do and swear by them. That's all they use, and also win competitions.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

bumping an recent topic with a "new to me" article.

but what exactly do "hop steep hops" add, as opposed to flame-out hops, and dry hops?

End of Boil Hopping

This is a question frequently brought up on homebrew forums and after doing some further research online there‘s a lot of debate about the most effective temperature for end of boil hops. The theory behind doing this at 80°C is that delicate hop essences are less likely to be driven off and there will be a higher proportion in the wort, meaning greater hop aroma and flavour.

-- https://grainfather.com/end-of-boil-hopping/

The article contains measured (not estimated) IBUs for 'end of boil' and '80°C hopping'.

 

[Spivey24]

My progression was stove -> outdoor propane burner -> induction burner in garage -> all in one (love it). Cheapest option is to skip all the cheap options. Lol

 

[mac_1103]

Cheapest option is to skip all the cheap options. Lol

Everyone's cost benefit analysis is going to be a little different. For every brewer who finally bought an all-in-one and kicked themselves for not doing it years ago there are three brewers who jumped straight in and used the fancy rig twice before quitting the hobby and putting it on Craigslist.

 

[treacheroustexan]

You mentioned 2.5 gal; is that your desired batch size or is that just what you feel limited to? I use an 1800 W, 120 V induction burner I bought off Amazon for under $40 for small (max of 3 gal) batches with great success, but I doubt it would work well for 5-gal batches.

Does the 120v 1800w boil the 2.5g without issue? I'm looking for an induction top to make 1 gal batches so I would likely only need to boil 2g total.