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American IPA My 2-time gold winning American IPA

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A longer boil can help eliminate DMS. The half-life for DMS is 40 minutes, so half of the DMS will be boiled off in a 40 minute vigorous boil. So if we do the math, a 60 minute boil gets rid of 64.7% of the DMS and a 90 minute boil rids us of 79% of the DMS. That is why most experienced brewers recommend a 90 minute or longer vigorous boil. Cooling your wort quickly after the boil helps keep more DMS from forming as well - which can't be boiled off obviously. Just tricks of the trade when using lighter, paler malts.
 
That makes sense. My problem is I can only boil 6 gallons at once. So would it be better to lose the extra boil off doing a 90 min boil? or just stick to 60 since it doesn't seem that it will affect anything other than DMS?

Or can I add more wort from mash tun say 30-40 minutes into boil so that I still end up with 5 gallons?
 
when I brewed this the 90 minute boil got me a bit under 5 gallons and my OG was high so I just added water to bring the OG within range. I would test your gravity and make the water adjustment accordingly as opposed to just adding water to make an even 5 gallons. Here's a calculator to help.

http://merrycuss.com/calc/gravityadjustmentwater.html
 
Also I would invest in a bigger pot - like a ten gallon. makes brewing life so much easier. You can get 60 qt stock pots on eBay for around $65 or $70 bucks.
 
Thanks for the info. I have a keg that will soon be a keggle I just don't have time between now and Saturday to do it.

Another quick question... Being that this is my second AG I plan to use bottled spring water do I need to mess with the ph of the mash water?
 
apparently the mash ph should be around 5.1 or 5.2 to get the best conversion of starch to sugar. I haven't ever checked my ph level. probably should. there's a product called 5.2 mash stabilizer that will bring the mash to 5.2 and keep it there. anybody have any experience with the 5.2 stabilizer? cheers.

p.s. as for the ph level of bottle water - here's a list I came across. if yours is one of the higher ph levels then maybe add the 5.2 stabilizer.

http://healthychoices.askahealer.com/2008/02/28/ph-levels-in-bottled-water/
 
I have this feeling though, that since this isn't a super light nor a really dark beer the mash ph level probably won't affect the final product too much. but I could be wrong...
 
parrotpoet said:
Also I would invest in a bigger pot - like a ten gallon. makes brewing life so much easier. You can get 60 qt stock pots on eBay for around $65 or $70 bucks.

I saw a 10-gallon pot at Food Maxx for $22 about a month ago.
 
Brewed this yesterday and hit all my numbers... Kind of. So I had to use three pots since I don't have a big enough kettle to hold 7 gallons, definitely not brewing again till my keggle is ready.I did the 90 minute boil and ended up with 4.5 gallons, my goal was 5.5 gallons, but the OG was really high I think around 1.085 so I added one gallon and ended up at 1.065. Perfect... I think. Is it bad that I had to top it off although I calculated 5.5g at 1.065?

Also can I dry hop this in secondary?

Thanks for the recipe!
 
Walshy87 said:
Brewed this yesterday and hit all my numbers... Kind of. So I had to use three pots since I don't have a big enough kettle to hold 7 gallons, definitely not brewing again till my keggle is ready.I did the 90 minute boil and ended up with 4.5 gallons, my goal was 5.5 gallons, but the OG was really high I think around 1.085 so I added one gallon and ended up at 1.065. Perfect... I think. Is it bad that I had to top it off although I calculated 5.5g at 1.065?

Also can I dry hop this in secondary?

Thanks for the recipe!

Ideally you don't want to top up with a whole gallon if you don't have to. That being said, you can still make great beer. I doubt you will notice. Yes, you can dry hop in primary.
 
that happened to me too. I ended up with less wort because of a nice, vigorous 90 minute boil and my OG was 1.075 or so. I added about a half gallon of water. I dry hopped in primary as an experiment but will definitely rack to secondary next time to let it clear and settle more. Otherwise it came out great! Ended up spot on at 1.012. tasty!!
 
What about adding pectin enzyme? I use it in mead and works great, but I don't recall seeing anything about adding to beer. Has anybody tried?
 
I see there are a couple of extract versions floating around. I'm new to beersmith, just downloaded the trial, can't seem to get it to convert correctly. I'll keep tinkering with it but in the meantime, is there an extract version with a good track record? Thanks.
 
EineProsit said:
Hey why does this recipie call for a 90 min. boil when hop schedule starts in the last 30 mins

We don't just boil for the hops. A lot of caramel flavors develop during a boil. It also gets rid of DMS. Plus a 90 min boil allows you to sparge with more water, getting more sugars out of your grain.
 
I've read mixed opinions about dry hopping while fermentation is still active. Does it matter for this beer?
 
Walshy87 said:
I've read mixed opinions about dry hopping while fermentation is still active. Does it matter for this beer?

I would ferment 2 weeks, then dry hop in primary for 4 days. That is my routine. When you say "active" I think of a huge krausen 2 days into fermenting. I certainly wouldn't do anything like that.
 
dale1038 said:
I would ferment 2 weeks, then dry hop in primary for 4 days. That is my routine. When you say "active" I think of a huge krausen 2 days into fermenting. I certainly wouldn't do anything like that.

It's been a week but I'm still getting bubbles every ten seconds or so, but I'll just wait another week.
 
Walshy87 said:
It's been a week but I'm still getting bubbles every ten seconds or so, but I'll just wait another week.

Bubbles don't mean it is fermenting. Bubbles just mean that CO2 is escaping. Without checking gravity, you don't know if the CO2 is from new fermentation, old fermentation with CO2 just now coming out of solution, or simply a change in atmospheric pressure.

Personally, I don't like messing with my beer and only check gravity when I bottle so every beer spends 3 weeks in primary. If I am dry hopping I just figure that backwards from bottling day.
 
Hoping to brew this today or tomorrow! Will be my first AG so I'm a bit nervous. Substituting williamette for fuggles cause my local store was out. Also crystal 20 for 60 cause I'm a newb and screwed up. Still hoping it will turn out good. Will check back later.
 
brewed this about 6 weeks ago, still enjoying it. have about 7 bottles left. very tasty. planning to brew it again but I'm considering trying WLP007 dry English ale yeast instead of 001 or US05. wouldn't mind just a touch more malt backbone. I've also heard that 007 attenuates like a beast and then drops out fast and hard leaving a nice clear beer.
 
So I brewed this up yesterday. I ended up with a 1.062ish gravity, which I'm not sure is good or not? I also screwed up and added fuggles at 30 mins instead of chinook cause I grabbed the wrong bag. So I added chinook at 15. I also only did a 60 min boil. Color was darker than I thought but I assume that's cause of the crystal 60. Had to try a sample and it tasted amazing. So I'm not to worried about the taste. I just hope the abvs are there.

Forgot to mention I missed my mash temp by 2 degrees so I mashed an extra 30 mins. I forgot to take a gravity reading after sparging. I also didn't iodine test my wort. I tasted a bit and it was sweet( I know that doesn't necessarily mean it was done). I didn't have any iodine though.

Do you guys think I will get any abv?
 

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