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Hello, I'm new in here . I have a knack for finding new/unopened Mr Beer kits at the local Goodwill shop for $5 . After looking up what just the plastic keg costs,or even the cans of LME I'm doing ok (I think) . I have yet to brew but I will be soon. I also bought a kit from a Lakewood Farms that has 2 beer brew kits in it. So right now I have supplies to make a Canadian lager, an American Light , an Amber and a Pilsner . Quite a variety I think.
Are these kits as easy as they read or is there something else I should be doing or buying to make them better. Seems like theyre a sanitize,heat water ,add the stuff , pitch yeast and wait, rack off into bottles , add sugar and yeast and wait some more. Sounds way too easy to make anything drinkable. Any help is appreciated. Thanks and Prost !:mug:

I know they are pretty good. I am not a beer connisewer (hehe) but I know what I like and Mr Beer kits are as easy as they say. It never hurts to starte easy and then progress to more complex kits as you gain confidence and experience.

I started with them and still use them. I know there are many who like them and many who do not, so, try it.

You may or may not like it but for the money you paid and the possibility they are long out of date, ya get what you pay for. If you follow the directions, you won't go wrong. You may even have fun.
Cheers
rb
 
I'm sure I will. 3 years ago I got into growing my own tobacco (cigar,pipe and chew)and I'm addicted to that too.
 
I'm sure I will. 3 years ago I got into growing my own tobacco (cigar,pipe and chew)and I'm addicted to that too.

I am told that tobacco without all the crap added by the big producers is very good and not near as dangerous as the commercial stuff.

Brew on.
 
Hi all, new brewer here.

I bought a hydrometer for SG readings but it takes about 5oz to get the reading (I drew the sample from the spigot into a graduated cylinder). I drank the 5oz, waste not, want not. It tasted like flat beer which I understand is a good sign.

Can I open the LBK to dump it back in or is that a no no? A few readings from these small batches can get significant. How about opening the top and just dropping the hydrometer in and reading it that way? So much to learn!

Thanks!
 
Hey Roger12345,welcome to the addiction. FWIW, I've been homebrewing off and on since 1995 and have never even owned a hydrometer.Here is what I do.Allow the brew to ferment in the LBK for 3 weeks.Bottle it.Let it condition at room temperature for a month.
After a month, put 1 or 2 in the fridge for 2 days and then enjoy.I wouldn't recommend putting the sample back in b/c when you open the lid, you can get all kinds of airborne bacteria in your brew that could spoil the whole batch.Again,that's my procedure.Good luck and cheers.
 
Hi all, new brewer here.

I bought a hydrometer for SG readings but it takes about 5oz to get the reading (I drew the sample from the spigot into a graduated cylinder). I drank the 5oz, waste not, want not. It tasted like flat beer which I understand is a good sign.

Can I open the LBK to dump it back in or is that a no no? A few readings from these small batches can get significant. How about opening the top and just dropping the hydrometer in and reading it that way? So much to learn!

Thanks!


I wouldn't dump it back in, it would suck to infect a batch because you're trying to be frugal. Better to get a refractometer and use the finishing gravity calculator at Sean Terrill's website.
 
Are these kits as easy as they read or is there something else I should be doing or buying to make them better. Seems like theyre a sanitize,heat water ,add the stuff , pitch yeast and wait, rack off into bottles , add sugar and yeast and wait some more. Sounds way too easy to make anything drinkable. Any help is appreciated. Thanks and Prost !:mug:


The American light and Canadian light should be basically the same beer, not sure about the Pilsner.

Yes, the kits are as easy as they say. I'd pitch the old yeast into the trash and spend a couple of bucks on good dry yeast. The cleaning stuff they include isn't really a sanitizer but should work well enough for a couple batches until you get addicted and invest more in brewing. Wait longer than the minimum, I always had better luck with 2-3 weeks before bottling. Keep the temperature controlled, just below 70f, to keep off flavors (think proofing bread) away. Oh, and don't bother adding more yeast into the bottles, there will be plenty in suspension with the turnaround on these kits. But yeah, drinkable is what you get with these kits.
 
The One Step that MB gives out is a sanitizer, they just haven't gone through the federal regulations to get it labelled that way.

Also, it's very good at dissolving glue on bottles.
 
The American light and Canadian light should be basically the same beer, not sure about the Pilsner.

Yes, the kits are as easy as they say. I'd pitch the old yeast into the trash and spend a couple of bucks on good dry yeast. The cleaning stuff they include isn't really a sanitizer but should work well enough for a couple batches until you get addicted and invest more in brewing. Wait longer than the minimum, I always had better luck with 2-3 weeks before bottling. Keep the temperature controlled, just below 70f, to keep off flavors (think proofing bread) away. Oh, and don't bother adding more yeast into the bottles, there will be plenty in suspension with the turnaround on these kits. But yeah, drinkable is what you get with these kits.

I agree - time is the key to making better Mr. Beer. Keep it cool (low room temperature in the winter - like 65 if you can), and wait 2-3-4 weeks before bottling. Then wait a solid 2 weeks at least with the bottles at room temperature. Then refrigerate for AT LEAST 3 days, but if you can wait a week, it's even better.

So they advertise that you can make beer in 2 weeks, but it's really more like 6-7 to make good beer. And if you like it, you can also learn to use the kit as a base and tweak it with extra grains or hops.

The yeast was usually known as not very good, but since Coopers bought them, the yeast might have improved? I used to use Coopers yeast packets anyway because they seemed better than Muntons, and they cost like $1.75 instead of $3-4 like Safale, etc.

It's a great way to start, and if it's crappy, you can dump it and start over - you're only out $5!
 
I still use Mr. Beer, plus I have purchased the equipment and do extract brewing as well as all grain... just getting into that part. My brother in law uses only Mr beer and he creates his own recipes. He makes some really good beer! The point is, Yes, Mr Beer is different than extract or all grain brewing. But as stated so many times here, it has introduced a lot of people to brewing beer, which is a wonderful thing! Brew on people!!!!
 
I started with a Mr. Beer kit in 2015. I bought the kit with a gift card that I had received. The kit has served me well so far. For my needs/wants this is the perfect size for me. Brewing in small batches like this has enabled me to brew a wider variety of beers than I could with an all grain set up.
They offer a wide variety of refill kits, recipes (up through partial mash) . They also sell a wide variety of grains, and other additions, along with different yeasts. They also seem to be adding, and working to make equipment, and recipes better.
Having this kit has allowed me to enjoy the hobby of home brewing beer. It has also allowed me to refine my process, which I do on every batch that I make. From this forum, and others, I have gotten great advice on how to do things in the process, and improve what I am already doing.
I plan on keeping my small kit for a long time to come.
 
Well, it begins.
Yesterday I bought a complete, unused but quite old Mr Beer kit for only $5 at a local thrift shop.
This is my first attempt at brewing beer. The beer is West Coast Pale Ale, and although I could not find a date on the can or yeast the kit included a Mr Beer catalog dated 2007 (LOL!).
I followed the directions carefully, both the directions that came with the kit and a YT video from Mr Beer...quite simple, pretty quick and kinda fun!
I've wanted to try my hand at this for 20 years now, and I am pretty excited to see how this works out! In spite of its' age, I can tell that there is a lot of action going on inside the fermenter already!
 
Using Mr. B hopped LME that old is probably not going to turn out well. I speak from experience on that. It will be beer, but it probably won't taste that good.

Good luck!
 
Well, it begins.
Yesterday I bought a complete, unused but quite old Mr Beer kit for only $5 at a local thrift shop.
This is my first attempt at brewing beer. The beer is West Coast Pale Ale, and although I could not find a date on the can or yeast the kit included a Mr Beer catalog dated 2007 (LOL!).
I followed the directions carefully, both the directions that came with the kit and a YT video from Mr Beer...quite simple, pretty quick and kinda fun!
I've wanted to try my hand at this for 20 years now, and I am pretty excited to see how this works out! In spite of its' age, I can tell that there is a lot of action going on inside the fermenter already!

Congrats on starting the hobby. The bad news - that old extract is not going to taste good at all. I started with Mr Beer and found a couple of old cans sitting around and figured "why not". Once it finished fermenting, I took a taste and dumped it immediately. It tasted exactly like celery. Those cans do have an expiration to them for a reason.
 
I had a can of the ALL that was only two years out of date off of a CL buy. I figured I'd mess with it some, added some LME, rye, and a couple of C hops.

Even the first beer I made where I fermented too warm for the first 12-14 hours tasted better than this beer. Dumped it after trying a few over some weeks' time.

:(
 
Congrats on starting the hobby. The bad news - that old extract is not going to taste good at all. I started with Mr Beer and found a couple of old cans sitting around and figured "why not". Once it finished fermenting, I took a taste and dumped it immediately. It tasted exactly like celery. Those cans do have an expiration to them for a reason.


I get it. Still, I'm one of those guys who can't throw anything away, lol!
I'm out nothing except a little time and water and it gave me a sort of "test run" to go thru the steps.
I ordered a nice fresh Diabolo IPA refill and will have it next week...I like IPA's. I welcome suggestions regarding which Mr. B's refills are the best (I like most kinds of beer).
 
I've had these 2 Mr Beer kits ($5 Goodwill buys)for a little while. If you're following my other post about this being another expensive hobby .
I was a little skeptical about if these would even produce anything drinkable but after acquiring a viable yeast from my LHBS ,I made the kits on Valentines day with their included ingredients of LME (Canadian Lager and Classic American Light)and pitched the Safale-05 . The krausen has been going great . This morning, actually minutes ago , I tasted each by dispensing from the spigots to a shot glass, only about 1/2 oz of each . I took the first sip expecting something rancid that I'd want to spit out immediately.... I have to say I am not only amazed it even did anything but quite impressed. The molasses looking syrup I poured from the cans to make wort and poured to plastic brown barrels has fermented and turned into an amber golden tinted and somewhat already clear beer with a low amount of carbonation. I can just imagine with another few days ,the priming sugar and a couple weeks of conditioning it being actually drinkable.
Its "on" now.
 
Tasted these the other day ,took a 1 ounce sample off the keg spigots. Its only been 10 days since I started them. The Canadian Lager has a nice flavor and crisp finish . The Classic American light has an almost lightly sweet and citrusy flavor not unlike a shandy , quite tasty.
Both appear a little cloudy ,which I'm not against at all. Will/should they clear up the closer I get to the 14 day mark?
They also have a good amount of carbonation .
The cap (krausen?)is still present , should I wait for this to fall before priming and bottling or will it not fall or just stop before I draw this out ?
Thanks
 
Tasting one of my Mr beer kit home brews. It's actually the single bottle I had the last of the classic American light and the last of the Canadian lager...50/50 . Poured a nice amber although a bit cloudy but i attribute to the bottom of the batch . It poured a nice head that slowly rose up the glass and then it cascaded with a nice light froth on top with decent lacing and mouth feel. Prefect carbonation, I was afraid I'd under primed it . Taste is perfect. Just about the same as a newcastle brown ale. I didn't check the alcohol content since it's a one off. I'll check the rest...maybe .
 
Tasting the Canadian Lager now...upon popping the top , it had a little Tst to it. eh, I definitely under primed this, its on the flat side but I can still feel some carbonation,nice mouth feel,coats the palate but not too syrupy or soapy . It didn't head up much but it shows slight lacing. the willamette hop pellets I put in 4 days before it was done in the fermenter is noticeable. I'm happy with that taste. Nice slight bitterness to the finish. Much clearer than the Canadian/American hybrid beer. I'd say except for that it needed more priming sugar ,its good. and the abv is running at a solid 5% ,good thing I added half packet of the booster to the boil.
What I'm saying is that even an older Mr Beer kit can make a beer that tastes as good as a commercially sold brew. Glad I bought them but sorry I didn't make them sooner than I did. Can't wait to get to brewing with real grains.
 
any body else build up their all grain batch and use the LBK for experiments? I recently started this practice as my wife enjoys one of my pale ale recipes but I wanted a little to dry hop.
 
my Mr Beer -Am Classic Light didn't turn out so well, flat . Had one last night with dinner and it barely tst'd when I popped the cap. Pour had no head whatsoever . I can defend this with a couple things- the kit was older and the ingredients (LME)were way past use ,but for reality, I needed more priming sugar in that one at bottling because even in the fermenter it had more suds than this. I went too low . I read too much about bottle bombs on first tries and choked .OR- I conditioned way too cold ...in the garage where its been on the high 30s .I'll try moving them back in the house where its 70 24/7 and see if theres an improvement . If not I guess I'll be popping caps and putting in more PS and see how it goes . Worse case scenario I dump it down the drain and brew a fresh AG for real.
 
my Mr Beer -Am Classic Light didn't turn out so well, flat . Had one last night with dinner and it barely tst'd when I popped the cap. Pour had no head whatsoever . I can defend this with a couple things- the kit was older and the ingredients (LME)were way past use ,but for reality, I needed more priming sugar in that one at bottling because even in the fermenter it had more suds than this. I went too low . I read too much about bottle bombs on first tries and choked .OR- I conditioned way too cold ...in the garage where its been on the high 30s .I'll try moving them back in the house where its 70 24/7 and see if theres an improvement . If not I guess I'll be popping caps and putting in more PS and see how it goes . Worse case scenario I dump it down the drain and brew a fresh AG for real.

Definitely bring it inside. The temps in your garage are way too low for an ale to condition. When the temperature of the bottles has risen, give them a turn to get the yeast suspended and let sit a couple weeks. You may not have under-primed. It's just that the temperature (30's Fahrenheit?) likely knocked your yeast out of suspension and put them to sleep.

Cheers
 
I got started a couple months or so ago with a Mr. Beer kit. It was a full set with 12 bottles and two extract kits. The funny thing is that this one didn't come with the booster packs that seem standard for refills when you buy them online. I'm guessing that this is going to make for a relatively low ABV and less body than you would normally expect from a mr beer kit. The Brewer's friend app puts it at right about 3.5% abv when I input the batch size, fermentables, and safale us-05 as the yeast type. I'm guessing that the yeast is something different, but that won't make more than a couple of points difference in the ABV.

I've tasted some of the American Lager kit, and it's good at least. The Mexican cerveza kit is currently carbonating, but if the tightness I feel in the plastic bottles is any indication, they don't need much longer.

Generally satisfied with my experience with mr beer, though I'm puzzled why I didn't get the booster packs with my kit. It certainly lit a fire in me for brewing beer. I already had my 5 gallon kit from Midwest Supplies on the way before I even bottled the first Mr Beer kit. I'm really excited about the cream ale I have currently fermenting in that.

I think I'm going to try my hand at making root beer in the Mr Beer fermenter next.
 
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