Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

[TonyKZ1]

They've (Mr. Beer) just added some new recipes/refills and also checkout BrewDemon, as I've bought quite a few from them too. Plus you can get 1G extract w/steeping grains recipes from different vendors and after trying a recipe, if you like it you can basically double the amounts and now brew a 2G version of that 1G recipe.
Good Luck.

 

[bpgreen]

So Saturday I bottled my "Briess "3 Muskets Ale" with 5.5 oz of Briess Sparkling Amber DME, boiled in 2 cups of water for ten minutes, (2.5 gal batch). Today, Monday the plastic bottles I used are getting hard already. When I used those MrBeer carb drops it took a couple of weeks and they didn't have much carbonation. I'm not to worried about the glass grolsch bottles I used, I think the rubber washers would release pressure before they explode. But should I pasteurize them after about a week to stop the yeast, or let them go for the three weeks I was planning on?
Thanks.

I've been force carbonating for the past 5 years, and when I was naturally carbonating, I only used plain white sugar, so I may be off, but that seems like a lot of dme. Did you use an online calculator? If so, did you remember to adjust the batch size? That looks more like the amount for a 5 gallon batch than 2.13-2.5.

As for the grolsch bottles, theoretically, they should vent, but I remember seeing a picture of one that blew through to off at a weak spot in the neck, so I don't think I'd count on venting to release enough pressure.

 

[olephart]

I've been force carbonating for the past 5 years, and when I was naturally carbonating, I only used plain white sugar, so I may be off, but that seems like a lot of dme. Did you use an online calculator? If so, did you remember to adjust the batch size? That looks more like the amount for a 5 gallon batch than 2.13-2.5.

As for the grolsch bottles, theoretically, they should vent, but I remember seeing a picture of one that blew through to off at a weak spot in the neck, so I don't think I'd count on venting to release enough pressure.

Yeah, I used the one on "tastybrew.com". They didn't have a option for Briess DME, just Three other DME's. Last couple of MrBeer's weren't that " fizzy ", (some carbonation but not much head), with sugar so I aimed a little high.

 

[olephart]

Yeah, I used the one on "tastybrew.com". They didn't have a option for Briess DME, just Three other DME's. Last couple of MrBeer's weren't that " fizzy ", (some carbonation but not much head), with sugar so I aimed a little high.

Finally at my computer...here's the results from the http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

Average CO2 volumes listed by BJCP style
American Lager - Dark (2.5-2.7)

Volumes of CO2

2.6


Beer Volume
How much beer are you bottling?

2.50
gallons

Beer Temperature
Upon completion of fermentation, a certain amount of CO2 remains in the beer. This amount of "residual CO2" depends upon the temperature of the fermentation.


70

Calculate

Recommended Priming Sugar:
Sugar Type Weight
Glucose (dextrose or corn sugar) 2.4 oz
Sucrose (table sugar) 2.3 oz
DME 55% AA (eg: Laaglander) 5.5 oz
DME 70% AA (eg: Northwestern) 4.3 oz
DME 75% AA (eg: Munton & Fison) 4.0 oz

Wish they would have had one for Bress DME :smack: Oh well, maybe Ill open one soon to see how them yeasties is doing..

 

[olephart]

Since I seem to be up and brewing with my LBK now. Anyone have any Mr Beer refill suggestions for my next batch?

I got my MrBeer for Christmas and I picked up a couple of the MrBeer kits on clearance after Christmas.

My local home brew store carries Briess so I was looking at http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Recipes/ You can search their recipe database, they have 29 extract only recipes. I like the easier ones...they are 5 gallon batches so just half them (3.3 lbs of LME instead of 6.6 lbs etc.). You'll have to buy your yeast, hops, and hop bags your LHBS also.


I have another MrBeer "Classic American Light", and some Root-beer extract setting in the pantry, thinking about making Hard Root-beer with that one...

 

[olephart]

I would just leave them go. Chances are the yeast ate all the sugars in the first few days the rest of the time will be waiting for the co2 to be absorbed into the liquid as the headspace and liquid reach pressure equilibrium.

I opened one a few minutes ago, (carbing 4 days so far), not much of a pop when it was opened, but after about 5 seconds the "foam volcano thing" happened. The OG was 1.050, FG before adding the DME for carbonating was 1.010, it is now 1.017. Kinda tastes like a Guinness stout .

Will the "foam volcano thing" go away in the next couple of weeks of carbination. Any thoughts.

 

[ericbw]

I opened one a few minutes ago, (carbing 4 days so far), not much of a pop when it was opened, but after about 5 seconds the "foam volcano thing" happened. The OG was 1.050, FG before adding the DME for carbonating was 1.010, it is now 1.017. Kinda tastes like a Guinness stout .



Will the "foam volcano thing" go away in the next couple of weeks of carbination. Any thoughts.

When it's cold it will be less. But you could be over carbed.

 

[ericbw]

Finally at my computer...here's the results from the http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html





Wish they would have had one for Bress DME :smack: Oh well, maybe Ill open one soon to see how them yeasties is doing..

I think briess is more than 55%.

 

[ericbw]

Finally at my computer...here's the results from the http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html





Wish they would have had one for Bress DME :smack: Oh well, maybe Ill open one soon to see how them yeasties is doing..

I think briess is more than 55%. I think I generally use an ounce of sugar in a gallon recipe. How big is the batch?

 

[olephart]

2 1/2 gallons.

 

[BrewinBromanite]

I opened one a few minutes ago, (carbing 4 days so far), not much of a pop when it was opened, but after about 5 seconds the "foam volcano thing" happened. The OG was 1.050, FG before adding the DME for carbonating was 1.010, it is now 1.017. Kinda tastes like a Guinness stout .



Will the "foam volcano thing" go away in the next couple of weeks of carbination. Any thoughts.

The one batch I way over carbed started off exactly like this scenario. Had a couple less than adequately carbed batches, so bumped it up. Unfortunately, there's some pretty big variance in fermentables with different DME brands, as shown on the calculator, so you're flying somewhat blindly not having Briess specifically on the list. My batch did the volcano thing pretty early on. I had a mix of regular mixed brand 12 is bottles as well as grolsch swing tops. They all ended up exploding in a pretty violent manner after several weeks. Not trying to scare you, and you may be fine, but I would be very cautious. My recommendations are try them frequently. If they are already gushing, I'd suggest placing a few in the fridge for at least 48 hours to let the c02 absorb, and see how the carbonation's coming along. If it's decent, I'd consider throwing them all in the fridge at that point, and be very careful opening them.

Again - not trying to scare you, but bottle bombs are real and very dangerous.

 

[olephart]

Yeah, thinking of pasturing this batch Real soon. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=193295. Probably in a few days. Oh well, I guess my third batch is gonna be a little malty. Think I should pop open the flip-tops for a second or two and reclose them to release some of the pressure before pasturing?

 

[olephart]

Yeah, thinking of pasturing this batch Real soon. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=193295. Probably in a few days. Oh well, I guess my third batch is gonna be a little malty. Think I should pop open the flip-tops for a second or two and reclose them to release some of the pressure before pasturing?

All pasteurized... and a couple in the fridge to "test":cross: I opened and closed them quickly to release some pressure. Some popped louder than others.

Then sat them in a basin of hot tap water while my big pot heated up go 180*. I even put an empty bottle with room temp water to check, and sure enough about 1/3 to 1/2 way through the ten minute 180* bath, the temp in the open water bottle reached and passed 165*.

Now i have to wait and see how they turn out...

By the way, anybody happen to know what the apparent attenuation of Breiss CBW Sparkling Amber DME might be?

 

[olephart]

All pasteurized... and a couple in the fridge to "test":cross: I opened and closed them quickly to release some pressure. Some popped louder than others.

Then sat them in a basin of hot tap water while my big pot heated up go 180*. I even put an empty bottle with room temp water to check, and sure enough about 1/3 to 1/2 way through the ten minute 180* bath, the temp in the open water bottle reached and passed 165*.

Now i have to wait and see how they turn out...

By the way, anybody happen to know what the apparent attenuation of Breiss CBW Sparkling Amber DME might be?

I just heard from Briess "...use 1 ounce of DME per gallon of beer,"... "When a recipe calls for priming sugar you can use it (Briess DME) in as a direct 1:1 replacement.".

So my 5.5 oz of Briess DME would have been good for a 5.5 gallon batch.
I should have used 2.5 oz of Briess DME to bottle carbonate my 2.5 gallon batch.
:smack:

 

[brewski09]

I am wanting to brew Briess Turtle on a Log; http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Recipes/beer/display/turtle-on-a-log



(2.5 gal instead of 5 gal.)



But I'm not sure how long to ferment it for. The recipe uses Wyeast 1056 Ale Yeast, (Temperature Range 60-72 F. My local home brew only had Fermentis Safale US-05 (Temperature Range 53.6-77F [ideally 59.7-71.6 F]) . The Briess recipe says to “cool to 55-60 F and transfer to primary fermenter”, “top off with cold water, Oxygenate and pitch yeast” and basically stops there…

It's a dark ale, I think I'm going to ferment at about 60 F, the Yeast producer (Fermentis) recommends 59.7-71.6 F.



Any thoughts on how long to ferment?

Secondary fermentation, if so how long?



I tried emailing Briess about a couple of their recipes but only got a reply on one, after a couple of weeks.

I'd personally not go below 64-66 with wlp001/wy1056/us-05 as it can get a little fruity and solvent like in my experience. Just let it roll at 68f for a week and this will be done and any byproducts will be cleaned up quite well. Cold crash for a couple of days and package your beer.

 

[brewski09]

Yeah, thinking of pasturing this batch Real soon. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=193295. Probably in a few days. Oh well, I guess my third batch is gonna be a little malty. Think I should pop open the flip-tops for a second or two and reclose them to release some of the pressure before pasturing?

Be careful pasteurizing. You are taking an already over pressure bottle and heating it adding more pressure. I'd toss em all in a cold, cold fridge next to the coots mountains and just drink them all up soon.

 

[ericbw]

I just heard from Briess "...use 1 ounce of DME per gallon of beer,"... "When a recipe calls for priming sugar you can use it (Briess DME) in as a direct 1:1 replacement.".

So my 5.5 oz of Briess DME would have been good for a 5.5 gallon batch.
I should have used 2.5 oz of Briess DME to bottle carbonate my 2.5 gallon batch.
:smack:

That's good to know.

 

[bpgreen]

As you've found out, Laaglander is probably the least fermentable dme. Briess is one of the most fermentable (maybe the most fermentable).

 

[fedoradude]

My 1st batch o' brew is IN the bottle. Some interesting developments in fermentation though. For example when I opened the ice chest it's been fermenting in for 3 weeks there had obviously been some seepage (?) out the cap. But not too much.

 

[bpgreen]

My 1st batch o' brew is IN the bottle. Some interesting developments in fermentation though. For example when I opened the ice chest it's been fermenting in for 3 weeks there had obviously been some seepage (?) out the cap. But not too much.

What we're the temperatures where you were fermenting? Were you swapping bottles of ice in the ice chest?

Fermentation is exothermic, so if the room temperature was 65, the fermentation temperature could be more than 70. If you had it in a cooler stoutly ice, it was probably even warmer than that.

Warmer temperatures lead to very active fermentation. That can lead to overflows.

 

[fedoradude]

What we're the temperatures where you were fermenting? Were you swapping bottles of ice in the ice chest?

Fermentation is exothermic, so if the room temperature was 65, the fermentation temperature could be more than 70. If you had it in a cooler stoutly ice, it was probably even warmer than that.

Warmer temperatures lead to very active fermentation. That can lead to overflows.

I just left it in the cooler but at room temp - 70 degs or so. That's what I understood the MB video instructions to say.

And I've got it in the bottles back in that same cooler at room temp for 2 weeks per the video.

 

[brewski09]

Overflow was par for the course in my experience. How's it taste? You may have a yeastyness like rising bread, that's from too hot of a fermentation. If it tastes tart/sour or has an acetic (vinegar) note you probably have an infection. Bottom line, taste what you have and see how much you like it. If it isn't what you hoped for post again with what you are picking up using whatever descriptors come to mind and we'll help troubleshoot it with you.

 

[fedoradude]

How's it taste?

I had a devil of a sinus headcold and didn't taste it when I bottled it. Figured my messed up nose and sinuses wouldn't have been anywhere near accurate.

But I did notice the room in which it was fermenting in smelled quite yeasty a couple days before the bottling.

 

[Randolf]

I've been homebrewing off and on since since 1995,and have found,that if your brew doesn't come out as expecting,MIX-IT.If it's too bitter mix it with cream soda.If it is sour ,mix it with V-8 juice.This may be faulty advice,but that is what I do if I experience an Off-Kilter batch.I've only dumped 1 batch,b/c it smelled like brake fluid!......cheers,keep brewing

 

[olephart]

Hop Suggestions for Mr Beer CBB Extract…???

...So I've got this can of MR Beer Canadian Blond Brewing Extract that “needs” to be brewed. So I looked at brewing instructions for a couple Mr Beer kits that use the CBB.

The “Bee's Knees”, and “Beach Babe Blonde”.

-----------------------------------
The Bee's Knees comes with;
SafAle S-33 yeast, and
a BrewMax LME Golden 8.81 oz. I think I would substitute Briess CWB Golden DME. (dry would be easier for me to use 8 or 9 oz. and save the rest for later).

I would have to provide;
1 cup of honey and
1 tsp Coriander, freshly crushed.

------------------------------------
The Beach Blonde babe comes with;
a 12.5 oz Pouch Booster (...It provides a full and balanced range of both fermentable and unfermentable sugars that are designed to mimic the carbohydrate profile of all-malt wort, consisting of 8% glucose, 56% maltose, 16% maltotriose, and 20% dextrins.) Thinking of Briess CBW Pilsen Light or Golden Light, as a replacement.

I would have to provide;
juice and zest of two small limes (about 2 oz).



Which one would you vote for?

Does any one have suggestions for hops? Not a bittering Hop, but something that would go good with the style.

Thanks

 

[douglasbarbin]

Aren't the Mr. Beer extract cans already hopped? No idea what you mean by "not a bittering hop", as any hop can be a bittering hop...

 

[olephart]

Yes they are pre hoped, but I've not noticed any. I might put the hops in at flameout, or dry hop to get more hop aroma/flavors.

 

[douglasbarbin]

Yes they are pre hoped, but I've not noticed any. I might put the hops in at flameout, or dry hop to get more hop aroma/flavors.

Saaz is probably a safe bet for either of those recipes.

 

[olephart]

Saaz is probably a safe bet for either of those recipes.

I was looking around the Mr Beer website, searching for recipes that use Canadian Blond and Saaz hops. I came across Amberosia Tripel.
It sounds yummy, “A cornucopia of fruit, spice and caramel malt, with a little licorice and peat in the background. A tripel such as this could be what they were partaking of on Olympus in ancient times. Ye Gods, it is simply divine!”

http://www.mrbeer.com/amberosia-tripel-recipe

It uses the Canadian Blonde extract and 1 Can Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner Brewing Extract, and Safbrew T-58 Dry Yeast.

I could get me some Briess CBW Pilsen DME and toss it in with the Canadian Blonde, with some Sterling hops, (looks like the Czech Pilsner Brewing Extract is brewed already with the Saaz hops).

Not sure about adding the 1 cup of granulated sugar though, an extra cup of CBW Pilsen DME sounds better to me.

 

[olephart]

Many of us leave all our beer in primary for 3-4 weeks, skip secondary and bottle...for many of us the only time we secondary is if we are dry hopping or adding fruit, or oak...or if we have made a beer like a pumpkin whith a huge amount of trub in primary..but for most of our beers we just leave it and let the yeasties clean up after themselves...

Even palmer mentions it in How to brew....

From How To Brew;

Leaving an ale beer in the primary fermentor for a total of 2-3 weeks (instead of just the one week most kits recommend), will provide time for the conditioning reactions and improve the beer. This extra time will also let more sediment settle out before bottling, resulting in a clearer beer and easier pouring. And, three weeks in the primary fermentor is usually not enough time for off-flavors to occur.

And this...

....As a final note on this subject, I should mention that by brewing with healthy yeast in a well-prepared wort, many experienced brewers, myself included, have been able to leave a beer in the primary fermenter for several months without any evidence of autolysis.

This get's discussed almost daily, there are plenty of threads on it...you could do a search for "long primary" or "no secondary" for more of the discussions, or just look at all the threads in the beginners section with the words "should I rack" or "how long in primary" and you'll see all our answers...we've kind of hashed and discussed it to death, and cited reasons whay we do...you you will find and abundance of info on the topic...but ultiamtely you'll have to make up your own mind.

So I have this wheat beer fermenting, (2.5 gal batch...3.3 lbs Briess Bavarian Wheat LME, Cascade Hops, Safale S-40 yeast..). First 7 days at 68°, and I'll soon be finished with 7 more days at 63°. The past two days gravity readings were 1.016 and 1.015.

I'm going to leave it in the fermenter another week, would 58° sound like a good idea?

This yeast's fermentation temperature range is 53.6° to 77°, (ideally 59° to 68°).
Thanks