• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
In this case, I think it'll be ok. I LIKE really hoppy IPA's. One of my current favorite 'commercial' ones is Sam Adam's Latitude 48 which I have seen numbers for in about this range, maybe a bit lower on the IBU...so maybe I'll dial the Flacier back to the original 1/2 ounce and see how it works.

I really need to just forget the kits and go extract or BIAB, but I just don't have the skills/comfort level yet, not to mention a full brew area of equipment (or the space for it atm)

I am wondering a bit on the color that I'll end up with... QBrew showed a 19; using the Sam Lat 48 clone as a reference (it shows a 13) I am already comparatively dark in color, and I think having the LME in the hop boil will increase that some? I don't want it to end up TOO dark.

What you're planning to do now is barely different from doing an extract batch from scratch. You're doing a full hop boil, so there's not much difference from what you're doing now and a recipe from scratch. The next step is steeping grains, then mashing.

The differences really aren't that big.
 
The Mr. Beer kits have IBU ratings but I can't seem to find the one you described. What's the name of your kit? It will tell you how bitter it is supposed to be if you follow the instructions. This won't account for differences in calculation formulas (I use eager across the board on beersmith now) but should get you within 5-10 IBU. Then you can adjust for this on your brewing software/application you are using. Some of their kits are in the 80-100 IBU range so don't get too wrapped up in the no boil until you know what you have to start with.

The only change I would make is some more piney or tropical hops. That particular mix doesn't sound fantastic to me. Good, but could be better probably. You can put those in your freezer and use them on a later brew if you get new hops.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Boydster,
Thanks for the suggestion, just plugged the change into QBrew and it only amounts to a drop down to 16 according to the calc, so maybe not worth the trip to the store, just for a pound of dme and only a minor change... guess this is just gonna be a more dark 'copper' or brown beer. ah well... at least it's beer

All this trouble for a Mr Beer Kit ? Seriously ??.... With a little hot water you can do this in 30 minutes.......It won't be good beer whatever you do, but it will be beer......
 
Really? Really? Well, yes.
If I choose to use the kits of Mr. Beer that I was given to try new things, and learn along the way, then why is that a problem?
I know these are not the most terrific beer, (but thanks for your 'expert' opinion that no matter what you tweak it won't help). That said, I have them to use, and may as well expand my skills while I do it, instead of just droning through the basic 'boil water and pour this can in' method.

If you really think so little of Mr. Beer, why bother to read the thread (let alone comment)??
 
I made a stone lucky bastard inspired beer with a mr beer starter hme. It turned out so good I had to make it again and they both disappeared quite quickly.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I made a stone lucky bastard inspired beer with a mr beer starter hme. It turned out so good I had to make it again and they both disappeared quite quickly.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Sounds nice. I have had some success using the kits and adding additional DME and hops. Having the can of HME, from them, gives you a workable base and a known general style which you can tweak a bit.
 
I use Mr. Beer and Brew Demon HMEs. I'm the only one who drinks my brews,so if I likem,that's what matters. I like some of their recipes so much that I re-brewed them and made some into 5 gallon batches.I do all extract with hop boils and grain steeps and sometimes use these hmes as basis for my brews. They may be alittle pricey,but sometimes they are on sale,so I stock up. Bottom line is I use what ever I want,and don't criticize any products.
 
I started brewing with Mr Beer and was generally happy with the results. I also started adding other ingredients to experiment. Now I am mostly using brewers best ingredient kits, they are very complete and help you to learn what ingredients and hops give what style of beer.
 
And soon you will be on to clones from homebrewtalk and some of your own recipes


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Really? Really? Well, yes.
If I choose to use the kits of Mr. Beer that I was given to try new things, and learn along the way, then why is that a problem?
I know these are not the most terrific beer, (but thanks for your 'expert' opinion that no matter what you tweak it won't help). That said, I have them to use, and may as well expand my skills while I do it, instead of just droning through the basic 'boil water and pour this can in' method.

If you really think so little of Mr. Beer, why bother to read the thread (let alone comment)??



I just wasted so much money on Mr Beer when I first started, and every one of them was crap in a can, of course this was 8 years ago, so maybe they're better now ?? .......But good luck Mike !....
 
Just opened my very first batch of homebrew, a Mr. Beer Aztec Cerveza. It was drinkable and my tasters all said that it was good. They may have just been polite, but I am almost out, so people continued to drink after the first taste. For my second batch I bought a bottling bucket. I just bottled my second batch (Czech Pilsner) and it was much easier with the bucket. The first batch had some carbonation inconsistency between bottles. I think the bucket will help with that. I'm about ready to brew my third batch, American Porter, and that may be the last batch using Mr. Beer LME. My wonderful wife just bought an 8 qt pot and I see partial boils in my future.
 
I just wasted so much money on Mr Beer when I first started, and every one of them was crap in a can, of course this was 8 years ago, so maybe they're better now ?? .......But good luck Mike !....

I have used a few of their kits over the last 2-3 years, and they were not that bad. After talking to a few people who have been using variations of the kits for many years, the opinions were that they had been getting betterand were much improved from what they used to be, so I imagine that the quality is MUCH different than what you experienced all those years ago. Mr. Beer was recently acquired by Cooper's, as well, and there have been additional changes to the kit ingredients and additions to the line. They no longer use the 'booster' sugar and some of their kits now come with the HME base and additional pellet hops, as well as additional LME/DME depending on the kit recipe.

I make no claims that these kits are super beer, and I do realize that we all have different tastes and preferences; that said, the Mr. Beer products are an entry point to the brewing world for many people, and a way for them to take those first steps on the path to greater knowledge and brewing skills.

If I hadn't been given the kits I now have, I would be working on all extract and extract/specialty grains batches, since I don't really have a good area to set up for all-grain yet. I decided to use these last few kits and try to see what I could do with them to make them unique and better than the simple basic recipe's.
 
^

Be sure to do this : Keep your Mr Beer Kegs, don't toss them out like I did when I went to carboys, buckets, etc. You will end up wanting them again for something, and I had 2 I tossed........:(
 
^

Be sure to do this : Keep your Mr Beer Kegs, don't toss them out like I did when I went to carboys, buckets, etc. You will end up wanting them again for something, and I had 2 I tossed........:(

Yep, I figured to keep hold of them for experimental small batches, or for trying things 2 ways on a given batch (like making a 7 gallon total size batch and doing 5 gallons one way in the main carboy, and 2 gallons hopped a different way, or with different adjuncts etc in the Mr. Beer keg).
I don't think I have heard anyone bitch EVER about having too many fermentation vessels available.
 
I have had good luck with the process listed in my sig for modifying Mr Beer kits, I only use them when given to me but I enjoy the outcome more than a kit by itself
 
Okay, so we've established that Mr beer kits can be used to make good beer if you know what you are doing. Anyone have any recipes? I'll look for mine tomorrow (have to dig out my hand written notes as my online recipe got jacked up)
 
Recipes using Mr Beer kits or recipes for Mr Beer fermenters? I got both :)

Skitter,
You got any interesting IPA or regular Pale Ale type extract recipe's sized for the 2-2.5 gallon Mr. Beer fermenter, then?
I want to try a couple things out on smaller batches, before I put the time/money into a full 5 gallon recipe in the new carboy setup I got. Figure I should make sure I have a beer I like before I stick myself with 5 gallons of it.
 
I was thinking we could post a couple of recipes using me beer extracts on here to give people some idea what can be done with the existing ingredients I they want to improve them.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Skitter,
You got any interesting IPA or regular Pale Ale type extract recipe's sized for the 2-2.5 gallon Mr. Beer fermenter, then?
I want to try a couple things out on smaller batches, before I put the time/money into a full 5 gallon recipe in the new carboy setup I got. Figure I should make sure I have a beer I like before I stick myself with 5 gallons of it.

Are you interested in extract only or extract+steeping grains? I think adding grains gives you a bit more flexibility, but if you want to stick to extract only, we can come up with something.

I usually do partial mashes because when I saw the instructions for a partial mash, they didn't seem that different from the instructions for steeping grains, but I know some people find mashing a little intimidating.
 
I am good with steeping grains. and could, probably, handle partial mash at this point, except for a lack of decent heat source for the larger amounts of water. For now I am stuck using our gas stovetop, until I get some more space to set up something with a larger burner. I doubt I can get more than a couple gallons of water to the boil on what I have now.
 
I am good with steeping grains. and could, probably, handle partial mash at this point, except for a lack of decent heat source for the larger amounts of water. For now I am stuck using our gas stovetop, until I get some more space to set up something with a larger burner. I doubt I can get more than a couple gallons of water to the boil on what I have now.

I do partial mash 5 gallon batches on the stove top. I do the boil in a 12 qt pot using the wort from the mash and add the extract at flameout. This improves hop utilization and also avoids carmelization of the extract.

This is just off the top of my head, but I could run the numbers in BeerSmith this evening if you need. Get an ounce of a high alpha bittering hop (centennial, nugget, etc), an ounce of cascades, 4 oz of C-60 and 3 lbs of extract. If you're using LME, you can add it after the boil and just stir to dissolve. You may need to add DME a little before the end of the boil to get it to dissolve (I get LME in bulk, so it has been a long time since I've used DME, but I seem to remember having trouble getting it to dissolve if I didn't boil it). If you want to do a partial mash, you can substitute some two row for part of the extract. I like using either US-05 or Nottingham. If you use liquid yeast, I'd go with WLP-001 or Wy056 (US-05, WLP-001 and Wy056 are all the Chico strain).

Crush the C-60. Heat a gallon of water to 160F. Put the steeping grains in a porous bag (there are muslin bags available for this, or you can use a paint strainer). Add the steeping grains. Let them steep for 30 minutes. If you're doing a partial mash, extend the time to an hour. Take the grain bag out and let it drain. Some people will squeeze the bag, but others say this leads to astringent flavors.

If you're doing a partial mash, use this for the hop boil. If you're only steeping, add about 1/2 lb of the extract. Stir until the extract dissolves. You may need to heat it a bit to get it all dissolved. If you're using LME, make sure there's none sitting on the bottom of the pan. Add 1/2 oz of the bittering hop and turn the stove on high. If you're using DME, watch for boil overs. Actually, with the hops, you may get some foaming with LME also, but not as much as with DME.

When it starts to boil, start a timer for 40 minutes. When the timer goes off, add the rest of the bittering hop. Set a timer for 13 minutes. When the timer goes off, add 1/2 oz of the cascades. seal the remaining cascade hops (preferably with a vacuum sealer) and put them in the freezer.

Set the timer for 7 minutes. When the timer goes off, remove the pot from the heat, add the extract and stir until it dissolves.

Cool it to about 80F and put it in the fermenter. Add enough cold water to bring it to the level you want. Aerate and add the yeast. Ferment it close to 60F (you can go even lower if you're using Nottingham). Let it ferment for two to three weeks. A week before you're done fermenting, add the rest of the cascade hops. Bottle or keg as usual.

This is sort of an APA (or maybe getting into IPA territory) along the lines of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (but not intended to be a clone).
 
Skitter,

You got any interesting IPA or regular Pale Ale type extract recipe's sized for the 2-2.5 gallon Mr. Beer fermenter, then?

I want to try a couple things out on smaller batches, before I put the time/money into a full 5 gallon recipe in the new carboy setup I got. Figure I should make sure I have a beer I like before I stick myself with 5 gallons of it.


I've got a basic pale ale recipe that's my house brew. I'll look at beersmith and post the extract, partial mash/steeping grains, and all grain versions later this weekend.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I did start a batch of Appliqueing for her so now she has something to look forward too. She likes beer but has gotten a gluten sensitivity and really can't drink it anymore. She loves wine and hard cider so I thought I would get a batch of Appliqueing going and maybe carbonate half of it. But she already told me that I will need to back sweeten it as she is not a dry wine kind of gal.
 
Skitter,
You got any interesting IPA or regular Pale Ale type extract recipe's sized for the 2-2.5 gallon Mr. Beer fermenter, then?
I want to try a couple things out on smaller batches, before I put the time/money into a full 5 gallon recipe in the new carboy setup I got. Figure I should make sure I have a beer I like before I stick myself with 5 gallons of it.

I typically do malt forward beers, still can't stand a lot of hops. Ill try different IPA's but havnt had much luck...

My fav right now is 3.5lb 2 row, 6oz Honey Malt, mashed in 10qt (BIAB) @155 for 60m. Top up to 3g to boil. .2oz Motueka preboil, .2oz Motueka at 10min, and .1oz at whirlpool/chill.

Easy session beer, nice tropical hop taste that balances out with the Honey Malt
 
This is my single hop pale ale recipe. its pretty basic, but has become one of the favorites that i brew (and one of the easiest)

2.5 gallon batch - target sg=1.050-1.054, target fg=1.014, ibu=35 (rager), srm=14, 5% ABV

1 lbs Caramunich I (Weyermann) (51.0 SRM) Grain 1 26.7 %
2.1 oz Caramel Malt - 60L (Briess) (60.0 SRM) Grain 2 3.5 %
1.0 oz Caramel Malt - 40L (Briess) (40.0 SRM) Grain 3 1.6 %
1.0 oz Caramel Malt - 80L 6-Row (Briess) (80.0 SRM) Grain 4 1.6 %
steep the crushed specialty grains in 150F water for 30 minutes to extract the sugars and "sparge" through a fine mesh kitchen strainer until the runnings are looking pretty clear. you can advance the technique when you get comfortable with it, but this is a simple "batch sparge" technique that will get you close to what you need to be.
2 lbs 8.0 oz LME Pilsen Light (Briess) (2.3 SRM) Extract 5 66.7 %
i dilute my extract and add for the whole boil. if you add at the end, you will increase your hop utilization, so be aware of that.

2.00 g Chinook [11.60 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 7.1 IBUs
this is a very small addition to help hot break. still a fair amount of ibu though. sub with anything you want, just account for the difference in ibu as needed.
1.00 Items Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 mins) Fining 7 -
1.00 Items Yeast Nutrient (Boil 20.0 mins) Other 8 -
21.00 g Chinook [11.60 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 9 15.0 IBUs
21.00 g Chinook [11.60 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 10 12.5 IBUs
late hops contribute a lot to flavor and aroma, but not too much to ibu so you can use a ton. this is an ounce and a half at the end.
1.0 pkg Nottingham (Danstar #-) [23.66 ml] Yeast 11 -
14-28.00 g Chinook [11.60 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs
i go 3.5 days dryhopping on all my beers now. smooth and delicious. great aromatics. the chinook will give you tropical pina-colada like tones so adjust this according to your thoughts on that.

use any yeast you want, i'm just a fan of light british qualities. The US-05 is a great yeast in this beer, especially if you are entering into any comps. If you use the entire 3.3lb of briess extract, you end up with a 6% IPA, so bump the IBU to at least 45 for that. I use this as a template for trying new hops (some have been great, some not so much) or a new specialty grain (a good 4oz is plenty to see what it will do for you unless its something like aromatic/honey malt). the briess cbw pilsen light extract is essentially 80-90% pilsner malt and 10-20% dextrine/carapils malt. I like to use pilsen light lme because the golden light lme has too many caramel malts in it already for me to get the profile i like. i've been told this recipe doesn't have enough crystal/caramel malts in it by some, but its a pale ale and i don't think it should have that many. double them if you think it needs it after brewing once.

no awards with this one, but plenty of requests for more from my friends. this one is ready to bottle in 10-14 days from brewday. throw some ice packs on it for a day or so before bottling to get it as clear as possible.

i use hop union hops because i am lucky enough to have them as my LHBS supplier. only use good hops or this won't be a good beer.
 
How's it going boys, real beginner at cerveza brewing, fermentation went well and I transferred to pressure vessel putting in 85g of brewing sugar admittedly I didn't boil this in a pan before therefore brewing sugar straight in a pressure vessel, a week later I decided to do 6 bottles and fridge them, (spoonful of brewing sugar in each bottle) 3 days down the line I can't see any signs of carbonation.... Help boys?!? Thanks for your attention
 
You need to let them condition at room temp (70f) for a couple of weeks to be carb carbonated. Either take them off the fridge or give them more time e where they are at.
 
I'm pretty sure I've seen this discussed in the past, but it has been a little while since I read the thread. I believe I made it through the entire length of the thread at the time, but can't remember if this particular idea has been discussed.

I have a 5 gallon batch of Centennial Blonde in my fermenting bucket and would like to do half of it over blueberries for another week. My current line of thinking is to let it ferment for 2 weeks in the bucket and then toss my blueberries into one of my LBKs and fill it almost all the way to the top to eliminate most of the head space and then cover with saran wrap and a rubber band.

I'd like to get some feedback from experienced LBKers. Would the addition of blueberries cause some additional fermentation causing the saran wrap to pop off? Should I try screwing the lid back on in addition to the saran wrap? If I pull from the top of the bucket when transferring to the LBK, would that keep most of the yeast from getting into the LBK and help lessen the potential issue of restarting fermentation? I've never added fruit to any of my previous 5 batches, so I'm not sure what I should expect.

Thanks!!
 
Back
Top