Motorized Grain Mills: Time to show them off!

[biertourist]

On a very related subject; What are the best solutions you've seen for keeping dust down?


-Some sort of rail solution that the bucket slides on to?

I'm thinking of just buying a Gamma Seal Lid from Home Depot for about $8 and cutting a mill body-shaped, rectangular hole in the lid and screwing it onto the under side of the top and then screwing a bucket onto the ceiling, but I'm open to any real simple, real effective and real cheap solutions. (Particularly if they're attractive or visibly hidden.)

A full hopper of crushed grain unfortunately doesn't fit into a single 5 gallon bucket so I'd have to buy 2 gamma seal lids and swap buckets 75% of the way through a typical grist or else buy a $30 7 gallon bucket.

Why the @#$!@#%@# are 7 gallon buckets like 5x more expensive than 5 gallon buckets?


Adam

 

[poptarts]

vittle vaults take gamma seal lids. You could get the 13 gallon one

 

[Want2BS8ed]

A full hopper of crushed grain unfortunately doesn't fit into a single 5 gallon bucket so I'd have to buy 2 gamma seal lids and swap buckets 75% of the way through a typical grist or else buy a $30 7 gallon bucket.

Why the @#$!@#%@# are 7 gallon buckets like 5x more expensive than 5 gallon buckets?

Cool idea, but I'm not sure the gamma lid could handle the weight/stress over time.

Also, U.S. Plastics has 10-gallon buckets for less than $10.

M

 

[Stehag]

I used my garden shredder

I replaced the crushing wheels against a self-constructed mill wheels.

I tried with a gap of 0.8mm, but had to increase it to 1.5 mm for good results.

It is not fast, but I do not need to stand beside when it grinds.

 

[MrNatural]

Mobility is not creating a Monster.

Man, that is a sweet stand. Need to check out my scrap stock.

Requirements depends on the mill - the number of rollers, roller diameters and roller length are going to dictate how much power is required to get things started with a full bin of grain.

But, fwiw, my two-roller 1.25" BC mill gets along with a 177 rpm 40 inch-pound gear motor...

Cheers!

Looking to motorize my MM-3, I recently picked up one of these https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-AC-Gearmotor-115-230-Nameplate-1LPW6. (I'll dispense with the sermon on mixing Jameson and EBay) Pic below among other in-progess stuff.

Anyway, I got concerned about using 156 RPM / 77 inlb after seeing all the 1 HP brutes folks are building.
You both have given me hope.
Another question for everyone. I see a pretty even mix of single multi-pole switches and and separate power/direction switches.
I was leaning toward a toggle for power and rocker for direction and then got thinking I could slam it into reverse under power. Guess you could eff up with single switch too, but wondered about experiences/preferences.

Thanks, Dale

 

[Robg773]

The guys at monster recommend 1hp motor for mm3. I wired for reverse because i could and I've heard of mills getting stuck on a rock or hard grain although i haven't experienced it. I used a drum switch so i would only have one switch and also both directions. Believe it arounf $70. Hope that helps.

 

[MrNatural]

The guys at monster recommend 1hp motor for mm3. I wired for reverse because i could and I've heard of mills getting stuck on a rock or hard grain although i haven't experienced it. I used a drum switch so i would only have one switch and also both directions. Believe it arounf $70. Hope that helps.

Appreciate the input, it kind of helps. Just hoping the Monster guys advocate overkill to reduce tech support load from folks trying to use automotive power window motors Good to know reverse is not a frequent mode.
I'm still on the fence regarding switches, but pretty certain I'm not postured for a $70 model in the event I go with single switch.
Thanks, Dale

 

[Robg773]

You could use an on/off light switch. Cheap and efficient. Just depends on your setup.

 

[MrNatural]

You could use an on/off light switch. Cheap and efficient. Just depends on your setup.

Definitely an option and already have box of various switches. Really a matter of deciding on my setup

 

[bigken462]

I just ordered a Monster Mill3 yesterday. Since I will be buying everything to motorize this. Can someone provide the recommended size motor, pulley sizes etc.

Right know, I'm leaning toward pulley drive, but I would like to have the information for a direct drive with gear reduction just to help make a better decision.

I have a old motor off a Craftmans wood lathe laying around somewhere and while it's been several years since I've messed with it, I think it's a standard 1/4hp motor. Not sure if this would work or not.

Initially I was just going to use a drill, but even then I would have to buy it. For just a few bucks more, I could pick up a Harbor Freight motor I think.

Anyway, any suggestions on what I should be looking for would help me out a bunch.

Ken

 

[jammin]

accidentally wasted my time

 

[jammin]

Oops, wasted my time

 

[Robg773]

I wrote up what i did here. Hopefully this helps.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=523385

 

[bigken462]

I wrote up what i did here. Hopefully this helps.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=523385

I read your thread. I noticed you mentioned something about not having enough room on the shaft to secure it to the drive. Is this something I need to plan for, or was it just one of those oh crap moments?

Ken

 

[Robg773]

Well probably not. The problem i ran into is the set screw that comes with the couplers, i couldn't get it tightened on to the shaft if the mill enough such that it wouldn't slip. Basically using the set screw when i had everything assembled, when i turned on the mill the coupler just spun around the shaft. I used a silver bolt from hime depot in place of the set screw and i had to tighten it so much the head snapped off the bolt. I replaced that with a grade 8 bolt from home depot and tighted it down and now it doesn't move at all. I guess i could have shaved down the shaft on the mill but i didn't want to risk messing something up. Just replace the set screws in the couplers with a bolt and u'll be fine. Tons of torque coming outta that motor.

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Well probably not. The problem i ran into is the set screw that comes with the couplers, i couldn't get it tightened on to the shaft if the mill enough such that it wouldn't slip. Basically using the set screw when i had everything assembled, when i turned on the mill the coupler just spun around the shaft. I used a silver bolt from hime depot in place of the set screw and i had to tighten it so much the head snapped off the bolt. I replaced that with a grade 8 bolt from home depot and tighted it down and now it doesn't move at all. I guess i could have shaved down the shaft on the mill but i didn't want to risk messing something up. Just replace the set screws in the couplers with a bolt and u'll be fine. Tons of torque coming outta that motor.

Grinding a flat on the shaft would be simpler and easy to do...

M

 

[bigken462]

Does anyone recognize what type or motor and right angle drive this might be?

Compact, nice and quite. I like it.

 

[Robg773]

Could be 13-175-10-L-56C from surplus center. Looks like the one I'm using although it looks smaller in the video.

 

[bigken462]

Northern Brewer is dragging their feet on my order, but I guess that's for another argument. So it looks like it's going to be middle of next week before my MM3 arrives. I thought about using this weekend to go ahead and build my stand to have it ready to mount. It will be pretty generic. 3/4" plywood for base and standard framing material.

Since I've never had any experience with milling grain, or operating a mill, I don't know what is a realistic size to start shooting for in regards to a table. I found a 3/4hp 1725rpm motor in the shop today, and while I was wanting to do a direct drive, I can't see spending money on another motor and speed reduction drive when I can get this going for under 30 bucks using a cpl of pulleys.

All that said, I would like enough room to place a set of scales on the table beside the mill hopper to measure out the grain. What size would be good target to build the base to? 2'X4' is kinda what I'm thinking or should I go a bit smaller?

Also, thinking about placing a metal chute under the table to control dust and splatter. Would something like dryer or gas vent material work for this? I figure it's nothing a few feet of sheet metal and a set of nippers could fix, but thought I would see if there was something already premade that I might could use.

Thanks,

Ken

 

[TeamAshBrewing]

Sub'd

 

[Saboral]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456448416.425859.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456448427.728870.jpg

Attached a 1 hp harbor freight motor and she was up and running!

 

[raouliii]

Does anyone recognize what type or motor and right angle drive this might be?

Compact, nice and quite. I like it. ...

Here's a link to the For Sale thread when I sold it here last year. There are a lot of specifics in the first post and a few questions answered later on.

 

[bigken462]

Here's a link to the For Sale thread when I sold it here last year. There are a lot of specifics in the first post and a few questions answered later on.

Lol, guess it must have been a surprise when you seen your video posted. Lol. Top notch build sir. I love the design. I think I have talked myself into keeping it simple and using a motor and parts I already have on hand. I'm not excited about the pulley style, but for less than 30-40 bucks I can be going.

I'm still going to give this some considerable thought, I really like how that mill is set up. I'll never make fun of a women again for not being able to make their mind up. I've been back and fourth with this 50 times. Lol

Thanks much for the reply.

Ken

 

[govner1]

Here's mine. MM 3 roller w/ gear reduction direct drive motor. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456459875.465546.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1456459894.972540.jpg

 

[bigken462]

Just opened the box laying on my front porch from Harbor Freight expecting to get the standard drill (93632) that many people here seem to use from HF to run their mills. The item I was trying to buy showed the variable speed lock on the handle. It seems HB has discontinued that item and is now sending a totally different item number (60436) for it's replacement than what I had clicked on.

Chaps my arse that they are too lazy to at least remove it from the online store listing if they are not going to sell it. They did offer to send a return shipping label, but if the other drill is no longer being shipped, I'm kinda forced to just use this one.

As I head into work, I hope this does not set the tone of how my shift is going to be tonight. Grrrr

Ok rant over.

Ken

 

[Saboral]

So what gear reducers are the direct drive guys here using? I looked at a few varieties and they seem pretty steep in price compared to a pulley system

 

[cyberbackpacker]

eBay is your friend, as long as you're not in a rush; I got a new 10:1 reducer for $35 shipped to my door. But, again, I was patient though; it took me a number of months to score that deal.

 

[jbb3]

Here's mine. MM 3 roller w/ gear reduction direct drive motor. View attachment 339969View attachment 339970

That's almost to purdy to use! Nice...

 

[BungBrewing]

Here's mine. MM 3 roller w/ gear reduction direct drive motor. View attachment 339969View attachment 339970

I could have sworn I already saw this one in this thread earlier...

 

[bigken462]

I put the MM3 together tonight. I set the rollers to .040". I can see this is going to be a PITA to change the settings if I ever have to adjust. Am I understanding correctly that .040 is good to go? I would rather take the time to get it right now because I didn't think to buy any extra grain to practice dialing it in with.

Ken