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Monster Brew Gold Kit

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dmclone

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My wife bought me a Gold Kit from Monster Brew. It included among other things:

7.8 Gallon Drilled Primary Fermenting Bucket with spicket
6 Gallon Glass Carboy with Rubber Stopper
3-Piece Airlock (for Fermenting Bucket)
8 Packets of C-Brite Cleanser
Glass, Triple Scale Hydrometer
Adhesive Thermometer (for Fermenting Bucket)

Wife has a huge Al-Clad stainless steel pot

I think I need to add the following:

Regular 5/16" Auto-Siphon
Star San
28" Stirring Spoon- plastic
Fermtech Wine Thief
Floating thermometer

Does this sound about right? Anything else?

I thought I would get the Autumn Amber Ale kit from Midwest

It sounds like from reading this forum that the carboy isn't needed. So if I just do a one step fermentation, do I just bottle straight from the plastic fermentation bucket? Where do I add the sugar before bottling?


Would it be better to fermentate in the 6 gallon carboy and then switch to the plastic bucket right before I bottle?


Thanks in advance.
 
Does this sound about right? Anything else?

If you ever plan to have two batches going at the same time, you'll need another airlock. I personally prefer three-piece with a poly bucket for primary and bubble with glass carboy for secondary.

A bottle brush and a carboy brush would be a good idea. If you don't have one, a capper and some caps, plus some some priming sugar. Anything past that is pretty much for comfort.

I thought I would get the Autumn Amber Ale kit from Midwest

It sounds like from reading this forum that the carboy isn't needed. So if I just do a one step fermentation, do I just bottle straight from the plastic fermentation bucket?

Note that secondary isn't necessary if you aren't worried about finished clarity. Even if you are, you can decant off to leave most of the trub behind, then cold crash most of the cloudiness out right before bottling. Personally, I'd consider using a secondary for reds and ambers, but that's a preference based on how they look and not much else.

You bring some water to a boil, let it cool a bit, then dissolve the proper amount of priming sugar into it. Chill that down to room temperature, then add it to the beer. Swirl or stir gently. If you're still in the primary with spigot, you may want to let the trub re-settle to the bottom before bottling.



Would it be better to fermentate in the 6 gallon carboy and then switch to the plastic bucket right before I bottle?

I don't think there's much difference. If you primary in the carboy, toss something over it to block the light.

I'm trying to gear up to primary in a fermenter keg, skip secondary, transfer to the serving keg using a jumper, and then chill and carbonate before serving. Will take buckets and carboys out of the picture entirely, but with a substantial investment.
 
Everything you listed as what you need would be good for you! If you don't want to spend on the wine thief, you can use a sanitized turkey baster . .. but I personally like the wine thief. Also, don't forget to get HOSE for your auto siphon.

I, personally, think you should ferment in the carboy, and only use that bucket for bottling. I am NOT a fan of using a drilled bucket with a spigot for fermenting . . . I know others use this method, but I am of the opinion that the only hole in your fermenting vessel should be at the TOP. I use glass carboys for nearly all of my primary fermentation.

Some other things you may want to consider:
Hydrometer Test Tube (get one appropriately sized for your hydrometer)
nylon boiling bags (great for steeping grains and boiling hops - keeps junk out of the beer so you don't have to strain it)
Bottles (you have to have something to put the beer IN! For only slightly more than the cost of empties, consider buying bottles pre-filled with beer - as long as they have pop-tops, and not twist off caps)
Bottle Caps
Capper (may have come with your kit)

Enjoy the brew, and let us know what you think!
 
Bottles (you have to have something to put the beer IN! For only slightly more than the cost of empties, consider buying bottles pre-filled with beer - as long as they have pop-tops, and not twist off caps)

This. The difference in price between bottles shipped from Northern / Midwest / Southern and bottles of Eye of the Hawk / Sam Adams was less than $4 per 12-pk for me after you factor in shipping.

It's going to be a while before you bottle anyway. Might as well drink em.
 
This. The difference in price between bottles shipped from Northern / Midwest / Southern and bottles of Eye of the Hawk / Sam Adams was less than $4 per 12-pk for me after you factor in shipping.

It's going to be a while before you bottle anyway. Might as well drink em.

When I buy at Costco, I can get a 24 pack of beer for LESS than the cost of empties + shipping.
 
I just got this same kit and had similar questions.

Two things I'm not sure I'm clear on:
Starsan and C-brite serve the same purpose? Or are they different? "Sanitize!" seems to be a common priority for everyone. Does that just mean wash everything really well with Starsan or C-brite, then rinse really well with water? Stupid question, i'm sure.

Most of what I read seems to imply that you can just use the fermenting bucket as the primary. But as Masterfool pointed out, it seems a little iffy to use a bucket with a hole in the side for this? is that what most people do? Is the seal on the spigot secure enough to not have to worry about?

I got a True Brew Nut Brown Ale ingredient Kit i'm going to try out first. I'm excited. Just trying to make sure i'm prepared.
 
1) I Assume you mean B-Brite. This is a cleanser, NOT a sanitizer. Good for cleaning, but my personal preference is PBW. You'll want to use one of these products to clean all of your gear prior to use.

2) AFTER you clean, use a SANITIZER . .. Star San seems to be the most popular, though I personally use iodophor. If you use Star San, be advised that it works best when WET. DO NOT RINSE either Star San or Iodophor. Rinsing will eliminate the sanitizing properties.

3) As I noted before, I do NOT like to use the bottling bucket (with the spigot) for brewing. Mine holds water pretty well, but every opening is a potential problem. Ale Pail's are cheap... you can get one at your LHBS very easily. If you don't have a brew store near you, it's easy to go to Lowes and buy a FOOD SAFE 6.5 Gallon Bucket with a lid - you can make your own hole for an airlock (6 gallons will work. 5 will probably be too small). Just wash and sanitize, and you're ready to go.

So, to clarify: Wash everything with PBW or B-Brite (or similar) really well. Then SANITIZE everything that touches the wort after the boil with Star San. Brew. Put it in a bucket with an airlock, add yeast, and in 3 weeks put it in a bottle. Voiala! Beer.
 
I just got this same kit and had similar questions.

Two things I'm not sure I'm clear on:
Starsan and C-brite serve the same purpose? Or are they different? "Sanitize!" seems to be a common priority for everyone. Does that just mean wash everything really well with Starsan or C-brite, then rinse really well with water? Stupid question, i'm sure.

Most of what I read seems to imply that you can just use the fermenting bucket as the primary. But as Masterfool pointed out, it seems a little iffy to use a bucket with a hole in the side for this? is that what most people do? Is the seal on the spigot secure enough to not have to worry about?

I got a True Brew Nut Brown Ale ingredient Kit i'm going to try out first. I'm excited. Just trying to make sure i'm prepared.

Leaks, and the likelihood that the first time you open the spigot, you'll get nothing but trub. Personally, I don't think it's a big deal. Buy another bucket if you think it might be, and then just use the spigot bucket for aeration and racking to bottles.

Everything already said about the difference between cleanser and sanitizer is true. However, some people prefer bleach for their sanitizer. I'm not one of them (absolutely hate the smell), but some swear by it.
 
Thanks guys. So to be clear, when you sanitize with star san (i'm thinking of getting a spray bottle and putting it in there), you just spray it all over everything that comes in contact with the cooled wort and let it air dry? Or when you say it works best when wet, you mean you spray the sanitizer (on say the bucket lid for example) then just immediately put it to use?

I'm going to my local shop this afternoon, I just want to minimize how stupid i sound when i get there. Thanks!!
 
I'm wasteful.

I make a 5 gallon batch in the primary bucket and then immerse everything for minimum 5 minutes, which is almost certainly overkill.

Was how I learned to do it from the Northern Brewer DVDs.
 
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