MM2, 3 - Losing set? Cranken?

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yes I am running a 3 bbl taproom/ brewery with it actually...


in any case I already now I would be no better off with a MM3 since it also doesnt have the hardened rollers or even bearings..

How do ya' know?

How is yours driven, direct or belts?

If the former, you've worn out a "bushed" one,direct driven, or only read of others, with direct or belt drives specified?

And yours has........Cold rolled rollers, or hardened?
Your link showed cold rolled.

Just trying to figure out where the thread was intended to go, 'cause it already seems your mind is made up, and the OP got some vague info, ( I M O )....:tank:

Keep a spare on hand, and rock on!:D
 
How do ya' know?

How is yours driven, direct or belts?

If the former, you've worn out a "bushed" one,direct driven, or only read of others, with direct or belt drives specified?

And yours has........Cold rolled rollers, or hardened?
Your link showed cold rolled.

Just trying to figure out where the thread was intended to go, 'cause it already seems your mind is made up, and the OP got some vague info, ( I M O )....:tank:

Keep a spare on hand, and rock on!:D
I drive my current home brewing mill with hardened rollers and bearings with a motor and belt pulley setup.. no problems. I bought a kegco 3 roller mill because it has bearings to do the same. I also mistakenly assumed (I know bad) since the 2 roller kegco/ck mill I already have has hardened rollers than surely the more expensive kegco mill does too..:smack: Never assume I know.

as far as info...
what we know,
MM3 $360+ with crank and uses bushings and non hardened steel rollers (just like the Barley crusher)

Kegco mill $151 shipped / clone of MM3 besides metric and the fact that it does have bearings vs cheaper bushings and we dont know if it has hardened rolls or not
 
Exploding grain dust wouldn't concern me as much as the sanitation risk from mill dust in a small confined fermentation area.

Best practice to separate your milling from cold side due to lacto present on grain.

I should have specified, this is a separate room in my basement. It used to be my cheese aging cave, and I think I'm giving up on it being a (cool-bot cooled, as with my cheese cave) fermentation room - just not set up as I'd like, with tile, washable surfaces, etc. Couple of pics of what it was formerly. Tough to maintain 98% RH and 55F, so you'll see some pretty goofy DIY's. Finally put a duct, a DIY "Sock" up top to atomize the mist, and a floating atomizer in a 5 gallon brew bucket filled with DI. Worked well.

But I don't think the room will work, at least as is, as a fermentation chamber. Especially as I'd like to devise a kind of nano-Yorkshire Square, or at least rousing-loop open fermenting vat.

DSCN2147.JPG


DSCN2148.JPG


DSCN2128.jpg


DSCN2144.JPG
 
Like others here: My MM2Pro with the hardened rollers was set last year. Still perfect with 130 -ish gallons worth of high-gravity grinding done. Love it. Have given away my Barley Crusher.

One thing that appeals to me about the Pro, aside from other considerations discussed here, is that it's 2" in diameter, v. 1.5 for anything we've been talking about.
 
They are the same mills as kegco sells yes..
look at this way... I just bought all three stout 3bbl brewing kettles with the accessories ... only I didnt go through stout... or brewmation who also sells them. I bought from the manufacturer who I found on alibaba and who sponsers the probrewer forum... and even with customs and delivery I saved over 30% over stouts prices ( over 3 grand)... its all about middlemen these days.. Everyones selling the same things at a markup with their own name on it.
Some companies pay a premium to have thier stuff made, not to have it made to better specs unfortunately but to have exclusive manufacturing rights so the same products arent sold to other companies to brand or sell direct... others have contracts that eventually expire allowing the manufacturers to sell to others.

as far as motors I use an old blueprint machine gear reduction motor and it works perfect... very strong and variable speed.. made a cheap ac to dc power converter with a $7 light dimmer and $3 bridge rectifier to power the 110v dc motor.

Have read again and understand. Took me a couple swipes, just the way it is. Thanks for all the help, Augie.
 
I drive my current home brewing mill with hardened rollers and bearings with a motor and belt pulley setup.. no problems. I bought a kegco 3 roller mill because it has bearings to do the same. I also mistakenly assumed (I know bad) since the 2 roller kegco/ck mill I already have has hardened rollers than surely the more expensive kegco mill does too..:smack: Never assume I know.

as far as info...
what we know,
MM3 $360+ with crank and uses bushings and non hardened steel rollers (just like the Barley crusher)

Kegco mill $151 shipped / clone of MM3 besides metric and the fact that it does have bearings vs cheaper bushings and we dont know if it has hardened rolls or not

Amazon:
"Question:
Question was earlier asked on whether the rollers were made of stainless steel; answer given was "steel." Can you tell me are rollers Stainless?
Answer:
Hello P.D.,
The rollers are hardened stainless steel.
Anthony"

-hardened ss?
 
Cold rolled vs hardened vs blah blah....

I think the barley crusher issue could more be related to not an aggressive enough knurl on the rollers more so than the hardness of the rollers...
Just a hunch.

If the kegco wears out Auggie that means your 3B brewery is doing well and you can buy another mill :)View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1508531940.536274.jpg

I just took a look at the rollers on my Kegco 3 roller, they seem quite substantial and I can't imagine them wearing out anytime soon cold rolled or otherwise lol.

I don't think the BC had teeth like this?
 
I'm hunting for my old JSP MaltMill at this point. Fixed gap. Cheap base. Cheap hopper. Perfect grist. Now I know I put it here somewhere....;)
 
Cold rolled vs hardened vs blah blah....

I think the barley crusher issue could more be related to not an aggressive enough knurl on the rollers more so than the hardness of the rollers...
Just a hunch.

If the kegco wears out Auggie that means your 3B brewery is doing well and you can buy another mill :)View attachment 417867

I just took a look at the rollers on my Kegco 3 roller, they seem quite substantial and I can't imagine them wearing out anytime soon cold rolled or otherwise lol.

I don't think the BC had teeth like this?

Nice pic, Wilser, thanks.

Guys, convince me there's a need warranting the extra cost, of a 3 roller over 2 roller mill. (I'm not being snide - I'm saying, I've only brewed using a 2 roller mill, know of at least one commercial brewery using a 2 roller mill**....and yet know a lot of homebrewers and almost all commercial breweries use 3, 4, 6 roller mills).

**Nethergate Brewery, England. In the same book (Brewing, Ian Hornsey), he states that most English breweries use a paired-4 roller mill.
 
Well yes, I bought the kegco 3 roller on a whim cause I got a helluva deal on it. Set it up on an abandoned free craftsmen tool cabinet w rollers, works great w a 1/2 inch drill.

Truth is most often I'm still using my $25 corona mill that produces a very nice crush and is dust free.

Crush is Crush is crush. I don't get all hung up on it. Go figure?
 
Gotcha, thanks, Wilser. I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one. I do believe the crush matters, always being a generally zero-sum game between extract potential and lauterability. I just want a good, not perfect, mix. Wish I had a pic of what the MaltMill turned out for me those 15-20 years ago, because I honestly think it was an excellent grist mix. Not saying others, like your Corona, aren't. Just saying I do think it's important.
 
Gotcha, thanks, Wilser. I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one. I do believe the crush matters, always being a generally zero-sum game between extract potential and lauterability. I just want a good, not perfect, mix. Wish I had a pic of what the MaltMill turned out for me those 15-20 years ago, because I honestly think it was an excellent grist mix. Not saying others, like your Corona, aren't. Just saying I do think it's important.


Ok disagree all you want lol. Your non adjustable mill actually I believe had a set gap wider on one side and narrower than the other.

This zero sum game you talk of sounds awfully theoretical IMO, where in practice I believe there is a pretty large window to get both efficiency and lauter ability.

In my experience a thorough crush with all pieces broken and not all obliterated to flour is all you need.
 
Wilser, I think it was the adjustable version that had the weird skew. I don't know, it's been a long time. I do know it worked great, for me.

Maybe I've misunderstood you. You said, "Crush is Crush is Crush." Which I took to mean, for example, a coarse grind will do the same thing as a fine grind, which I just don't agree with. Maybe you meant something else?

At any rate, whatever works...
 
OK, thanks. Yep, I believe the 3 rollers essentially strip the hull off, leaving it intact, then the kernel is crushed properly. So it both exposes the kernel to a more efficient crush, and makes for a better lauter.

I actually am curious on the 3 roller. My only hesitation is that someone somewhere said that to adjust the lower rollers, you have to disassemble the mill? I probably scanned that too quickly.


I think what I meant was not to get all wrapped up in a three roller stripping the husk clean and the following roller crushing the interior kernel perfectly.

There ain't a helluva lot of difference crush wise b/w my corona and a three roller w both adjusted reasonably well.

Crush is crush assuming it's a decent crush.
 
I just didn't understand Wilser's meaning, but with respect, yeah, I don't agree, Wilser. I think crush is vital, just one of the many points along the chain that we can control, that matter.

At the end of the day, though, I do hold that nothing's a religion - whatever works, by definition, is right. I was only half-joking - maybe I should just go back to my JSP fixed. I'm very proud of those ales, one of them taking 2nd in the midwest, AHAs (fluke - never entered before or since, so it was my only entry. In-laws drank the samples that were supposed to go on to the nationals). And it was a drill and that JSP.

I sometimes think I put too much stock in equipment, and too little in sensory attention, or joy, for that matter.
 
Monster Mills are completely Made in the USA, from materials made in the USA. I know because I own the company. Our bushings are made in the USA. The only Chinese parts on our mill are the small screws that we send to put the hopper together. The bolts to fasten the mill to the base, and hopper to the mill are made in North America. We use 1144 alloy steel for our rollers. The rockwell hardness for this material is 12-13 Rockwell C. The knurling process work hardens the rollers. We don't claim that the standard steel rollers are hardened because they don't under go an additional hardening process. Technically, anyone can claim any type of knurled roller is "Hardened". You don't know what they are doing to harden their rollers, because they don't tell you, right? I have no idea what anyone else is doing to harden their rollers. Our standard steel will last between 12-15K lbs of grain, which for most home brewers is a very long time. I have had some customers get twice this amount of life from their rollers.

Our larger Pro series mills have 2" diameter rollers that come with the same 1144 alloy steel rollers standard. We offer a hardened option on the larger pro mills. These rollers, made of the same type steel, are induction heat treated to Rockwell 51-54 C. We know because every batch is tested on a hardness tester. The heat treated rollers have lasted in excess of 150K lbs of grist in commercial applications. This information has been given to us by our commercial customers that use our mills day in and day out.

The Kegco mills are a Chinese COPY of my mill with some minor changes. They did NOT however even bother to change their copy of my hopper.

We don't use bearings on our standard mill because they add cost, and are not necessary. With proper maintenance, our standard bushings will last the life of our rollers, and longer. The only issue we have seen with bushing wear has been in motor drive applications with a belt that side loads the drive shaft, or when the gap is adjusted improperly, and the adjustable roller is crooked in the bushings. We offer the PD version of our mill that has a large USA made roller bearing to support the drive shaft, and the side loads generated by a belt, and eliminate the possibility of bushing wear.

Can you get replacement parts for your Kegco Mill? Can you get any support if you have a problem? Do you even know where it is made, or by what company? Tons of folks sell them, but no one has any idea who makes them. Maybe you don't care, but you might consider it.

All of the detailed information about our mills is spelled out in vivid detail on our web page, but for some reason no one seems to know. When I hear that my mill is made in China, it kinda makes me mad. When you spend money with us, you are benefiting at least 5 different families, and companies here in the USA that supply us with parts, and machining services. Our hoppers are cut on CNC laser cutters by a company in North Dakota. Our bases are CNC cut by a local cabinet maker here in GA. Our metal parts are all machined here in GA from material manufactured in the US. I won't try to compete with the Chinese on price. I can't beat them on price, and I don't want to try. I understand that our mills are more expensive, and they are because you get a better product with service and support. If you don't care about those things, and don't have the extra bucks, then the Kegco mill and its variants, seem to work for many folks. I think that our mill is a better value for the money, and will last longer than most others that are out there, and they come with the added benefit of keeping our money and jobs in the USA.

I will follow this thread if anyone wants to know anything about our mill that I haven't covered, or supply any info that isn't already on our web site.

Thanks!

~~fred francis
MBH
 
Thanks, Fred!

.

Yes thank you Fred! Very informative post.

Looking back I think perhaps I did a poor job choosing my words :confused:

I certainly agree crush is vital and important. Perhaps I should have stated a "good crush" vs just crush.

IMO the person evaluating the crush and adjusting the mill is more important than the mill itself. The key to getting a good crush isn't so much a matter of choosing the "best" mill, as it is to understanding what makes a good crush and having the mechanical ability to adjust the mill to perform to that standard.

Back to the original post on mills losing set point, I feel the operators were likely not torquing the set screws sufficiently. Perhaps thumb screws were a poor choice, but simply tightening them down a bit with a pair of pliers would solve the issue.

The link below is pretty thorough and goes through mill set, gap and desired crush characteristics and is a good read if you have a few minutes.

I find it ironic of all the homebrew mills tested, the lowly valued corona mill has the closest sieve results to the 4 roller pro model lol. Whatever mill you decide on for whatever reasons, just please learn how to adjust it and learn to eyeball the characteristics of a good crush. Also found it humbling that mill gap set on the 4 roller pro model mill, the operator tunes the mill with a visual evaluation of the grist, not w/ feeler gauges, go figure. I have no idea what the gap is on my 3 roller mill, I just adjusted it to produce a "good crush". We are not setting the valve clearance on a Porsche here, and yes I have done that :) Maybe I'm just too lazy to lay on the floor, get grain dust in my eyes and try and check the gap with a bent feeler gauge, that's how we roll, cheers happy Saturday.

http://brewlikeapro.net/maltmilling.html
 
Monster Mills are completely Made in the USA, from materials made in the USA. I know because I own the company. Our bushings are made in the USA. The only Chinese parts on our mill are the small screws that we send to put the hopper together. The bolts to fasten the mill to the base, and hopper to the mill are made in North America. We use 1144 alloy steel for our rollers. The rockwell hardness for this material is 12-13 Rockwell C. The knurling process work hardens the rollers. We don't claim that the standard steel rollers are hardened because they don't under go an additional hardening process. Technically, anyone can claim any type of knurled roller is "Hardened". You don't know what they are doing to harden their rollers, because they don't tell you, right? I have no idea what anyone else is doing to harden their rollers. Our standard steel will last between 12-15K lbs of grain, which for most home brewers is a very long time. I have had some customers get twice this amount of life from their rollers.

Our larger Pro series mills have 2" diameter rollers that come with the same 1144 alloy steel rollers standard. We offer a hardened option on the larger pro mills. These rollers, made of the same type steel, are induction heat treated to Rockwell 51-54 C. We know because every batch is tested on a hardness tester. The heat treated rollers have lasted in excess of 150K lbs of grist in commercial applications. This information has been given to us by our commercial customers that use our mills day in and day out.

The Kegco mills are a Chinese COPY of my mill with some minor changes. They did NOT however even bother to change their copy of my hopper.

We don't use bearings on our standard mill because they add cost, and are not necessary. With proper maintenance, our standard bushings will last the life of our rollers, and longer. The only issue we have seen with bushing wear has been in motor drive applications with a belt that side loads the drive shaft, or when the gap is adjusted improperly, and the adjustable roller is crooked in the bushings. We offer the PD version of our mill that has a large USA made roller bearing to support the drive shaft, and the side loads generated by a belt, and eliminate the possibility of bushing wear.

Can you get replacement parts for your Kegco Mill? Can you get any support if you have a problem? Do you even know where it is made, or by what company? Tons of folks sell them, but no one has any idea who makes them. Maybe you don't care, but you might consider it.

All of the detailed information about our mills is spelled out in vivid detail on our web page, but for some reason no one seems to know. When I hear that my mill is made in China, it kinda makes me mad. When you spend money with us, you are benefiting at least 5 different families, and companies here in the USA that supply us with parts, and machining services. Our hoppers are cut on CNC laser cutters by a company in North Dakota. Our bases are CNC cut by a local cabinet maker here in GA. Our metal parts are all machined here in GA from material manufactured in the US. I won't try to compete with the Chinese on price. I can't beat them on price, and I don't want to try. I understand that our mills are more expensive, and they are because you get a better product with service and support. If you don't care about those things, and don't have the extra bucks, then the Kegco mill and its variants, seem to work for many folks. I think that our mill is a better value for the money, and will last longer than most others that are out there, and they come with the added benefit of keeping our money and jobs in the USA.

I will follow this thread if anyone wants to know anything about our mill that I haven't covered, or supply any info that isn't already on our web site.

Thanks!

~~fred francis
MBH
thank you for answering the questions we (ok mainly I) have been trying to figure out..

This is very informative... And in fairness this is the type of information you might want to actually disclose on your website as I looked there before questioning it because usually if something is not stated or advertised to be American made it's not.
And now days even if it does state made in America it could mean only some piece of final assy was done here which is not the case here and should be something to be proud of (and again mentioned) If it is somewhere I apologise because I really looked for it.

In reality though if you were to take all this aside and just compare the two mills not knowing anything about the origin or cost which would you honestly pick?
When you add in that the mill that has better bearings is less than half the price and knowing the past history with the other American brand mill the Barley crusher and its issues with bushings and rollers. Add that the clone of that mill was tremendously better and more reliable that the original. Than you have to understand why a person would ask these questions in the first place. With all these different mill brands all being almost direct copies of one another it's hard to tell who copied who but this one was copied so we'll I honestly thought they might be from the same factory which is actually common with many other products.
 
In reality though if you were to take all this aside and just compare the two mills not knowing anything about the origin or cost which would you honestly pick?
When you add in that the mill that has better bearings is less than half the price and knowing the past history with the other American brand mill the Barley crusher and its issues with bushings and rollers. Add that the clone of that mill was tremendously better and more reliable that the original. Than you have to understand why a person would ask these questions in the first place. With all these different mill brands all being almost direct copies of one another it's hard to tell who copied who but this one was copied so we'll I honestly thought they might be from the same factory which is actually common with some other home brewing products.


Sans research, If you're looking for a budget mill, it's obvious which you'd pick,not knowing of metal terminology, ( sans research), and "assuming" that bearings, ( "better bearings" ), are what would be preferred, not considering side loading or drive method,(belt tension higher than needed, sans research),and springing on advertising hype alone.......It's why they sell, and work to "most" users satisfaction.:mug:

Happy brewing, ( and happy milling! )
 
Monster Mills are completely Made in the USA, from materials made in the USA. I know because I own the company. Our bushings are made in the USA. The only Chinese parts on our mill are the small screws that we send to put the hopper together. The bolts to fasten the mill to the base, and hopper to the mill are made in North America. We use 1144 alloy steel for our rollers. The rockwell hardness for this material is 12-13 Rockwell C. The knurling process work hardens the rollers. We don't claim that the standard steel rollers are hardened because they don't under go an additional hardening process. Technically, anyone can claim any type of knurled roller is "Hardened". You don't know what they are doing to harden their rollers, because they don't tell you, right? I have no idea what anyone else is doing to harden their rollers. Our standard steel will last between 12-15K lbs of grain, which for most home brewers is a very long time. I have had some customers get twice this amount of life from their rollers.

Our larger Pro series mills have 2" diameter rollers that come with the same 1144 alloy steel rollers standard. We offer a hardened option on the larger pro mills. These rollers, made of the same type steel, are induction heat treated to Rockwell 51-54 C. We know because every batch is tested on a hardness tester. The heat treated rollers have lasted in excess of 150K lbs of grist in commercial applications. This information has been given to us by our commercial customers that use our mills day in and day out.

The Kegco mills are a Chinese COPY of my mill with some minor changes. They did NOT however even bother to change their copy of my hopper.

We don't use bearings on our standard mill because they add cost, and are not necessary. With proper maintenance, our standard bushings will last the life of our rollers, and longer. The only issue we have seen with bushing wear has been in motor drive applications with a belt that side loads the drive shaft, or when the gap is adjusted improperly, and the adjustable roller is crooked in the bushings. We offer the PD version of our mill that has a large USA made roller bearing to support the drive shaft, and the side loads generated by a belt, and eliminate the possibility of bushing wear.

Can you get replacement parts for your Kegco Mill? Can you get any support if you have a problem? Do you even know where it is made, or by what company? Tons of folks sell them, but no one has any idea who makes them. Maybe you don't care, but you might consider it.

All of the detailed information about our mills is spelled out in vivid detail on our web page, but for some reason no one seems to know. When I hear that my mill is made in China, it kinda makes me mad. When you spend money with us, you are benefiting at least 5 different families, and companies here in the USA that supply us with parts, and machining services. Our hoppers are cut on CNC laser cutters by a company in North Dakota. Our bases are CNC cut by a local cabinet maker here in GA. Our metal parts are all machined here in GA from material manufactured in the US. I won't try to compete with the Chinese on price. I can't beat them on price, and I don't want to try. I understand that our mills are more expensive, and they are because you get a better product with service and support. If you don't care about those things, and don't have the extra bucks, then the Kegco mill and its variants, seem to work for many folks. I think that our mill is a better value for the money, and will last longer than most others that are out there, and they come with the added benefit of keeping our money and jobs in the USA.

I will follow this thread if anyone wants to know anything about our mill that I haven't covered, or supply any info that isn't already on our web site.

Thanks!

~~fred francis
MBH

Extraordinary way to come to the site this morning. Thank you Fred. One of the best assertions of a company's views I've ever seen.
 
Sans research, If you're looking for a budget mill, it's obvious which you'd pick,not knowing of metal terminology, ( sans research), and "assuming" that bearings, ( "better bearings" ), are what would be preferred, not considering side loading or drive method,(belt tension higher than needed, sans research),and springing on advertising hype alone.......It's why they sell, and work to "most" users satisfaction.:mug:

Happy brewing, ( and happy milling! )
THIS is just my personal opinion.

I disagree there... I really believe they sell better because they are advertised and pushed by vendors quite a bit. For a time the Barley crusher got the same spotlight and was the go too mill... After a while more and more problem threads popped up with the rollers stopping and the fact they they needed to be disassembled and the bushings oiled.. over and over.

roller composition aside,

The actual side force applied on the roller shaft from crushing the grain is enough to wear out the bushings over time and allow grain dust in between the shaft and bushing causing more resistance ... Yes they work but if you could have the superior with less maintenance option for half the cost why wouldnt you?

The only GOOD reason I can find is the buying american made factor. and thats a personal decision.. If they were designed for equal lifespan and a comparable price that would make the choice easier for more people. But american workers are expensive, apparently so much so that the product has to me made more cost effectively to offset the price against its competitors and even then its still quite a bit more money in this case.. I'm sorry but thats the way it looks to me.

Unfortunately you can logically compare the value of two products without such things as origin and cost as well as how well they are built and engineered.. I see a slightly better engineered product for half the cost but with a base design stolen from the competitor.. This is unfortunatley a very common scenario.. Usually american companies try to take more effort to disguise what they copy from their predecessors and chinese companies usually make inferior clones to make this choice easier.

So what do we want, Better engineered products for more competitive prices? Its a hell of a lot better that inferior quality knock offs right?
 
This thread makes me want to buy another Monster Mill. Even though my current belt driven MM2 2.0 with OI bushings has no signs of increased side play, never stuck or stalled, has held adjustment for over 1000 pounds of grain throughput etc.
I guess replacing it would be pointless...this AMERICAN MADE mill is great! Why would anyone even consider a POS Chinese COPY of this high quality American design, possibly using child labor and hazardous working conditions. In the end, what difference is the extra cost going to make?
 
Whatever I ultimately decide, and right now it's looking like the place where I began, Monster Mill, this has been an education, from everyone here. I'm grateful.
 
Sorry for what is probably an obvious question, but is this the Kegco 3 roller mill, in setup and operation?

Edit: Man, I really need to wake up. I saw the Kegco name upper right just now. Have to say, this is basically what I did with my JSP MM for years, to great effect. Except the gap was permanently set, I believe, at .045.

Alright, I'll say it. Have spent slowly but tried to spend well so far, as a fixed income is not infinite but I want everything to be purpose-built and quality, this time. This is likely "it." But with this decision, extremely difficult because from what I can tell, these do perform really well, backed up by a lot of people here. Yet I can see Monster is the genesis of them all.

This isn't going to be easy.
 
This thread makes me want to buy another Monster Mill. Even though my current belt driven MM2 2.0 with OI bushings has no signs of increased side play, never stuck or stalled, has held adjustment for over 1000 pounds of grain throughput etc.
I guess replacing it would be pointless...this AMERICAN MADE mill is great! Why would anyone even consider a POS Chinese COPY of this high quality American design, possibly using child labor and hazardous working conditions. In the end, what difference is the extra cost going to make?
Well a common reason besides the ones already mentioned, Like the durability of the bearings being able to hold up to pulley drive setups..

Some people actually have a limited amount of money and cant afford to spend the extra $200 to step on this soapbox but still want the best quality mill they can justify and afford.

Some people just want the best value for their money . Especially those who apparently dont make the kind of money as the people building and selling some of it.

The reality is its not that simple, We all use chinese made stuff everyday we just dont know it and unless your daily driver was made 30+ years ago and you research everything you buy you can bet you likely do too..


Like Mentioned before different in different situations have different priorities to weigh..
For some its more about how its made. For others it more important where.. Some can afford the luxury of both.

We really should just stick to what mills have what tangible advantages and disadvantages now that we all know where they come.
 
Now I expose my less-than-awesome tools mastery shows (any project I've done, like build a Japanese tea garden single handed in the midst of a Providence snow storm, with a torn rotator cuff....is because I didn't know I couldn't. Now, I've had too much experience with tools to know I truly know nothing).

It appears the drill in the video used is a Ryobi P277 One+ 18 Volt. Good?
 
Now I expose my less-than-awesome tools mastery shows (any project I've done, like build a Japanese tea garden single handed in the midst of a Providence snow storm, with a torn rotator cuff....is because I didn't know I couldn't. Now, I've had too much experience with tools to know I truly know nothing).

It appears the drill in the video used is a Ryobi P277 One+ 18 Volt. Good?

At first I used a corded hand drill for my MM3. Since I BIAB I grind pretty tight and have my bottom roller gap at .037 which is on the tighter side for a 3 roller mill. This mill and gap setting requires lots of gutsy drive torque else it is prone to stalling out and possibly burning the windings. I quickly found that the best drill for the job was a 10a 1/2" DeWalt corded drill....other less built drills typically cant muster the torque for the job....but I'm not selling drills either.

I ended up building a cart and motorized my MM3 with a 180 RPM AAW motor. This is the Cadillac approach to milling, but hand drills are a great way to grind at home.
 
Thanks a lot Morrey. I'm not settled yet by any means, just have taken in what Augie has been saying, seeing that video (which I did find impressive), considering being able to get in on a 3 roller with new drill that is about the cost of the AAW alone. On the other hand, hanging on a bit longer, and buying an MM3 with the AAW in a permanent mount, knowing I've done probably the best I could do at our level; I very carefully chose Spike for my reasons, have a great welder for my frame, etc.

I have absolutely no ability to discern any quality difference between the Kegco and the MM. I already spoke of a finite budget, which Augie also reflected above. On the other hand, I do take in what Brick said. Just as when I was a chef, I searched the nation to find animals to cook whose story I knew, intimately, I feel the same way here, really.

Don't know if I'm making any sense. Pain level is pretty intense today and my mind is in a bit of a fog. Trying to say, I'm settled on the style but torn on the final company, for many reasons.
 
Weren't you the guy that got all upset with me when I mentioned the barley crushers were known to have problems in another thread a year or 2 ago? I remember you and another Guy in the thread got pretty defensive against me and basically told me I was full of it?
All I was trying to do was let people know what the deal was since some companies spend so much on marketing it doesnt matter how poorly their products stack up against others.. Unfortunately you dont always get what you pay for.

Clearly you've put way more energy in that discussion than I did. Couldn't tell you.

Is your ultimate goal to always be right? Ok, YOU WIN. You're ALWAYS RIGHT.

Better?
 
Clearly you've put way more energy in that discussion than I did. Couldn't tell you.

Is your ultimate goal to always be right? Ok, YOU WIN. You're ALWAYS RIGHT.

Better?
Well I'm sorry. I guessing by your attitude I remembered right.. I wouldnt even have brought it up But I specifically remember mongoose and yourself trying to discredit me for mentioning the issue they commonly had calling me a naysayer at the time.. It was a long time ago and maybe I just remember it a little differently than it went down..
Anyway this is the first I heard that you ended up having those issues as well.. But that was kind of the point behind me being so critical here since the things believed to be at fault with the BC by so many are shared with some other mills in question.
 
In another vein, and this has been a really difficult decision for me. I know that won't mean much to most, and may also sound hypocritical to many. But in my circumstances, and I won't go into anything more, I do believe the best decision I should make is going to be the CK, with a drill. I was very impressed with what I saw in the video (with the 3 roller Kegco), and with what I've read from many for whom I've already gained respect for in this forum, who testify to the CK's performance and durability. I used to use the JSP, as I've said, and it got me there very well. This will do it even better, I believe. I don't know that I can realize that much of a benefit from a 3-roller v. 2-roller mill, though I'm still open to and thinking about it.

I honestly hope I can set, and get brewing, once all else is brought together.
 
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