well your kit box said, ~1.071-1.075.....which is a 4 point difference? and 1.062-1.065 is only 3...so nominal?
Missed my starting gravity, any suggestions?
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Thanks for being so helpful man but I'm not with the beer currently. I set it to cold crash before I left so I may not mess with another sample. I'm not planning on making any corrections. Just learning all I can. Looked like beer Smith was closer to what I got than the kit claims anyway
and if you notice, that prediction is for your 5.5 gallons.....
here it is the way the kit expected....
so i think in finality of this thread, you didn't...nor did i...really realize how a half gallon can make that big a difference! 
I see what your saying. Would a half gallon get you in line with claims of the kit?
but before you pitch your hops for the 30 minutes, you'd need to wait longer, or start with 5.5 instead of 6 gallons.....most boils are 1 hour normaly...
edit: i've heard people say a longer boil helps reduce diacetyl, or something like that.....the kit directions might have omited that...
edit #2: i see it is a 60 minute boil, but the steps make it sound confusing.....
edit: i've heard people say a longer boil helps reduce diacetyl, or something like that.....the kit directions might have omited that...
edit #2: i see it is a 60 minute boil, but the steps make it sound confusing.....
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thanks! soon enough you'll just be coming here to goof off with us other homebrewers!
glad we managed to get an explanation! even though @IslandLizard kinda had it nailed with "10%"...just when you think 1/2 vs 5...it doesn't seem that big!)
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When I used to do Extract kits I only ever had 5.5 in the boil. I would have the other half off to the side in case I over boiled and went below 5. But I did before chilling. I knew because of the following. Here is a tip if you do not have a sight glass on the kettle. Have a rod or even use your stirring paddle/spoon and mark/make notches on it for the water level per gallon and for half gallon. Stand the spoon on its tip in the kettle and add a gallon and mark, so on and so forth. That way you can use it as a measuring stick as you boil. When you get into All grain you’ll see where this comes in extra helpful. Boiling off 2 or 3 or even 4 gallons of sparge water takes time and measuring often.
but before you pitch your hops for the 30 minutes, you'd need to wait longer, or start with 5.5 instead of 6 gallons.....most boils are 1 hour normaly...
edit: i've heard people say a longer boil helps reduce diacetyl, or something like that.....the kit directions might have omited that...
edit #2: i see it is a 60 minute boil, but the steps make it sound confusing.....
I had read that the longer boil is to boil off the DMS but further reading said that it would continue to be formed from the SMM in the wort as it cooled. I wondered why I wasn't noticing it in my beer when I only boil for 30 minutes but then I saw that it was scrubbed during fermentation. Hmm...have we been getting only part of the answer all along?
Or get yourself one of the nice brew kettles that has the volume markings etched on the inside.
i got a tip from someone here, to use a low voltage A/C power adapter....and a q-tip to etch the kettle....
wait it was YOUR thread!
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/volume-marking-kettle.680635/
dwightr8
Well-Known Member
Don't know what program you are using here but I noticed you have "All Grain" selected and a BH Efficiency of 81%. Not being familiar with extract brewing or your program, I'm not sure how extract would be handled in this program and if it would make a difference.
BeerSmith 2...and no it wouldn't make a diference. the only thing with sugars would the est preboil gravity. because i didn't check the box that says add after boil....
jambop
Well-Known Member
Well there is your problem? You had a boil over and you have 10% more in the fermenter than you should have!
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