Mash tun build questions

[Upthewazzu]

Hey all, I've been extract brewing for about a year now and looking to step up to all grain. I bought a 17-gallon Coleman Extreme cooler and this weldless spigot from morebeer. I removed the default nozzle from the cooler and to my surprise the spigot fit like a champ with no modifications. But that was the end of the good news because when I water-tested it, it had a small leak that could not be stopped. So I'll need to modify the build a little bit with some parts from the hardware store. Are there any particular materials that I should stay away from? Most videos online show either stainless steel or brass being used, are those ok? I don't want to poison anyone because I used the wrong metal fittings!

Also, aside from cleaning the cooler, should I boil any of the parts beforehand (similar to boiling a new kettle to oxidize it)?

Thanks!

 

[sparkeee277]

I use brass sometimes but prefer stainless. Either way, I listened to a podcast that John Palmer did about brewing metals and the dangers associated with them. There is such a trace amount of brass or stainless compounds in finished beer that they are significantly lower than what the FDA considers hazardous. But, I would error on the side of caution and go stainless.

 

[jflongo]

Hey all, I've been extract brewing for about a year now and looking to step up to all grain. I bought a 17-gallon Coleman Extreme cooler and this weldless spigot from morebeer. I removed the default nozzle from the cooler and to my surprise the spigot fit like a champ with no modifications. But that was the end of the good news because when I water-tested it, it had a small leak that could not be stopped. So I'll need to modify the build a little bit with some parts from the hardware store. Are there any particular materials that I should stay away from? Most videos online show either stainless steel or brass being used, are those ok? I don't want to poison anyone because I used the wrong metal fittings!

Also, aside from cleaning the cooler, should I boil any of the parts beforehand (similar to boiling a new kettle to oxidize it)?

Thanks!

Do you have the silicone washer on the inside or outside? Is it tight enough to where is just squishes it a little? Pictures would help.

 

[billl]

Sounds like you need the little Oring version vs the standard flat washer.

http://morebeer.com/products/temp-oring-weldless-valve-kits.html

 

[GrogNerd]

thought my 70-quart extreme mash tun build was perfect until I tested it out

teflon tape stopped the leak

 

[Upthewazzu]

Do you have the silicone washer on the inside or outside? Is it tight enough to where is just squishes it a little? Pictures would help.

silicone washer was on the inside. i tightened it to where it squished a little (it leaked) and squished a lot (it leaked). So I'm going to have to use the o-ring that came with the cooler, but it's too small to fit the morebeer ball valve so that's why I'm going to have to get different parts, I think.

 

[Upthewazzu]

thought my 70-quart extreme mash tun build was perfect until I tested it out

teflon tape stopped the leak

Where did you apply the teflon tape? My fittings weren't the problem, its the silicone washer thingy that isn't creating a good seal.

 

[GrogNerd]

I also kept part of the original drain hardware from the cooler, the gasket that went up against the bulkhead on the inside of the cooler. that gasket slips over the nipple and provides another seal. teflon tape goes anywhere two parts are joined at the threads

you can see the tape in the picture from your link at morebeer

 

[jflongo]

silicone washer was on the inside. i tightened it to where it squished a little (it leaked) and squished a lot (it leaked). So I'm going to have to use the o-ring that came with the cooler, but it's too small to fit the morebeer ball valve so that's why I'm going to have to get different parts, I think.

Is the silicone washer directly against the wall? If not, it should be. Also, does it fit very snug on the treads that are on the inside?

 

[IslandLizard]

The problem with these coolers is that when you tighten the nuts on the bulkhead you're compressing the semi-rigid foam-filled wall, which has little resistance. Some holes maybe cut a bit large or maybe under an angle. If you can put a short piece of plastic pipe inside the hole to provide some body to tighten against, it will likely seal well. Some silicone caulk maybe needed too, mine did...

Look here for the general idea.

 

[Upthewazzu]

Is the silicone washer directly against the wall? If not, it should be. Also, does it fit very snug on the treads that are on the inside?

Yes and yes.

 

[Upthewazzu]

The problem with these coolers is that when you tighten the nuts on the bulkhead you're compressing the semi-rigid foam-filled wall, which has little resistance. Some holes maybe cut a bit large or maybe under an angle. If you can put a short piece of plastic pipe inside the hole to provide some body to tighten against, it will likely seal well. Some silicone caulk maybe needed too, mine did...

Look here for the general idea.

Yeah, I saw that but was hoping to avoid having to drill out the hole. I don't have a dremel tool and would be afraid to screw something up using a regular sized drill motor.

 

[masonsjax]

Due to the double-wall issue, I used a hole saw to remove a 2" circular portion of the outer wall so the bulkhead is compressing on only the inner wall. I padded out the thickness with a few large fender washers, never had a leak.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yeah, I saw that but was hoping to avoid having to drill out the hole. I don't have a dremel tool and would be afraid to screw something up using a regular sized drill motor.

You don't need to remove much. A bit of rolled up sandpaper and some patience will get the hole to it's size. You only want to ream the outer shell.

I found a piece of (gray) electrical conduit laying around to be the right size. Even my bulkhead fit perfectly inside it, nice and snug actually.

I did add a liberal amount of silicone caulk on the inside of the wall just in case, first to secure the tube better and 2nd to prevent any possible leaks migrating to the foam core. I have the 52 quart version and noticed the drain hole being under a noticeable angle, complicating matters of sealing the bulkhead. The large stainless washer pressing against the flat silicone washer, on the inside, is elementary.

 

[jflongo]

Yes and yes.

Also, if your silicone washer is flat, you could go to the hardware store, and get a thicker one cheap.

 

[smyrnaquince]

Is silicone caulk considered food grade?

 

[IslandLizard]

I think all transparent silicone caulk is food grade, but not sure if there is a specific food grade variety.

I only used it on the outside, to lock in that piece of pipe. It doesn't come in contact with the mash or wort.

 

[Strecker25]

I read a thread yesterday that said all silicone is not good grade, and I fact ge silicone II has harmful mold resistant chemicals in it. DAP makes a food grade silicone designed for aquariums available at HD