• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Kegging Questions

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

EFaden

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
Messages
536
Reaction score
14
Location
Rochester
1) Are the lids interchangeable if they are the same shape? (e.g. oval for oval and racetrack for racetrack) I have seen a ton of different answers for this question.

2) If a keg won't hold pressure where is a good place to start?...

3) Do kegs need lube to seal correctly?

Thanks.
 
1) Yes

2) Usually it's the lid o-ring. Try repositioning the lid and kinda pull up on it as you lock it in place. A little lube on the o-ring is good here. Hit it with co2 at a high level, at least 20psi, to "force" the lid upwards and into place.

3) Not always. If the o-rings are wet with something like Starsan, I have found I don't need lube to get them to seal properly. When you hook up the quick disconnects though, a tiny bit of lube on the post o-rings makes them go on much easier.
 
1) Yes

2) Usually it's the lid o-ring. Try repositioning the lid and kinda pull up on it as you lock it in place. A little lube on the o-ring is good here. Hit it with co2 at a high level, at least 20psi, to "force" the lid upwards and into place.

3) Not always. If the o-rings are wet with something like Starsan, I have found I don't need lube to get them to seal properly. When you hook up the quick disconnects though, a tiny bit of lube on the post o-rings makes them go on much easier.

Ok. Thanks. I assume the lids should be tight right? As in I shouldn't be able to push them down and let gas out right?
 
Ok. Thanks. I assume the lids should be tight right? As in I shouldn't be able to push them down and let gas out right?

Depends how hard you're pushing. If your CO2 pressure is at 12psi then applying more than 12 psi of force downward on the lid would probably allow some CO2 to escape. If you can charge the keg without CO2 escaping then you should be good to go. No need to push down on the lid.
 
When I started kegging, I thought that the ball lock and pin lock disconnects were sealed units, not paying attention to the slot in the top that is there for dis-assembly. I went through alot of gas before I noticed that they were not snugged up from the factory and leaked severely around the cap. I always sprayed everything with Starsan, but neglected to check those.
 
Back
Top