Kegging & Misc Question

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Thanks for the info on the fermentors.

I'll probably stay with the PET carboys. I already spent the money to get the connections for the carboy cap to do closed transfers. Don't feel like spending more money on another set up.

One of my HBS has 5 & 6 gallon PET's for $20 & $23 so I'll probably go with one of those for now.
 
Two that I can think of: you don't have to install gas bulkheads, and the tank is discretely hidden from view (which might matter to the Spousal Unit ;))

Otherwise, the down-sides are having to open the keezer/kegerator to check and/or adjust pressure settings, if the interior is habitually damp or even wet the brass bits may develop a patina, a steel tank will start rusting, there's a chance the gauge faces will warp (they're commonly made from
cardboard these days), and the space occupied by the cylinder may displace a keg.

fwiw, I keep my CO2 and beer gas cylinders outside my keezer...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
Two that I can think of: you don't have to install gas bulkheads, and the tank is discretely hidden from view (which might matter to the Spousal Unit ;))

Otherwise, the down-sides are having to open the keezer/kegerator to check and/or adjust pressure settings, if the interior is habitually damp or even wet the brass bits may develop a patina, a steel tank will start rusting, there's a chance the gauge faces will warp (they're commonly made from
cardboard these days), and the space occupied by the cylinder may displace a keg.

fwiw, I keep my CO2 and beer gas cylinders outside my keezer...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

What is a gas bulkhead? How is it installed?
 
I use these 1/4" MFL-MFL shanks for plumbing gas into my keezer, and a longer version to bring gas into my two brew fridges.

04C03171.jpg


On my keezer I installed them in the back edge of the lid and topped them with ball lock gas posts.

keezer_gas_mod_04.jpg

On my two fridges I ran them through the back wall (sorry 'bout the blurry pic)...
ab_july_04_2014_07.jpg

Cheers!
 
I like what you did to hook up your gas lines to the keezer. So you have a female hose barb on the inside of the keezer to hook up the gas line?
Do you need to use a gas distributor with that set up?
 
I use full 1/4" flare fittings on the inside for all three lines. One CO2 line goes to a 1:6 manifold with shut-offs and check valves for general ales, the other CO2 line goes to a single gas QD for a higher-carbed beer like wheat/hefe/etc, and the nitro line also goes to a single gas QD for my chocolate stout.

So you don't need a manifold, though given enough kegs they become almost a necessity - short of a regulator per keg setup (and there are folks who do that).
I hold 7 kegs in the keezer, 6 on tap with one of those always a nitro stout.
The combination of feeds gives me sufficient flexibility to have different styles available at the same time...

Cheers!
 
These are the bulkhead shanks I've used:

https://www.chicompany.net/index.ph...rdjert88qls201&keyword=bulkhead+shank&x=0&y=0

I have the longer shank running the gas into my keezer; I have the middle one (two of them, in fact), getting the gas inside my fermentation chamber so I can carb kegs in there. Couple of pics showing these:

This is what the bulkhead shank looks like on a keezer; you connect a swivel nut (with nylon washer) to it.

bshank1.jpg

Here's an application where I'm using two of them to go through my ferm chamber so I can both carbonate kegs in the ferm chamber and use the silicone tubing inside as a blowoff tube connected to airlock jars on the outside:

bshank2.jpg

bshank3.jpg
 
brew703 said:
I'm not sure if i will move up to 5 gal- that's just too much for 1 person. I planned on going with the 5 gal carboy and move up to 4 gallon batches that way it will give me 1 gal headspace.
I do like the fermonster's. if i end up going with 5 gal batches, maybe i'll go with the fermonsters if i can find them locally.
Click to expand...

You'll be surprised how quick 5 gallons goes. :mug:
 
mongoose33 said:
These are the bulkhead shanks I've used:

https://www.chicompany.net/index.ph...rdjert88qls201&keyword=bulkhead+shank&x=0&y=0

I have the longer shank running the gas into my keezer; I have the middle one (two of them, in fact), getting the gas inside my fermentation chamber so I can carb kegs in there. Couple of pics showing these:

This is what the bulkhead shank looks like on a keezer; you connect a swivel nut (with nylon washer) to it.

View attachment 419777

Here's an application where I'm using two of them to go through my ferm chamber so I can both carbonate kegs in the ferm chamber and use the silicone tubing inside as a blowoff tube connected to airlock jars on the outside:

View attachment 419778

View attachment 419779
Click to expand...

I like the set up. Going to order two of the shanks and 4 swivel nuts to connect my gas lines.
Thanks.
 
Another question:
What causes beer to flow back through the gas line into the regulator?
I have a Taprite dual regulator. In addition to the check valves installed on the regulator, is there something else I should do to prevent this from occurring?
 
Classic example: reducing the regulator pressure to a pressurized over-filled keg (gas diptube submerged). Sans a functional back-flow preventer (aka "check valve") once the incoming pressure is below what was already in the keg the beer is going to back up the line.

The obvious thing to avoid is filling kegs above the gas dip tube - even with shortened tubes...

Cheers!
 
Another example is reducing pressure on a previously over carbed keg in a warm-ish environment so that inside the keg all manner of CO2 is un-dissolving and the resulting foam backs up with Long or short gas in dip tubes. This I know.
 
Made a little progress. Got the collar done. Only took 4 hours. Used pine which my brother in law had so it didnt cost anything. Eventually may swap out the facade for something nicer.

Had a hard time getting it to square up and sit flush on the lip of the freezer. Wouldn't think a 16th of an inch would make a difference but it does. Once I added the facade as in Mongoose's post, it tighten up and fits tight and flush.
Just need to sand, paint or stain and drill holes for taps and gas lines. Also need to add the foam board. Was hoping to have it ready by Friday but not sure if i will have time to mess with it this week.

33C6099C-0296-4EB9-9960-432F4C1C40F2.JPG
 
brew703 said:
So the check valves on the regulator will prevent the flow of beer to the regulator?
Click to expand...

That's exactly why they are there. If they work, that's what they do.

As for the collar, if you ever get the urge to do something different you could consider applying a veneer.
Not that hard to work with, and you get all the look at a fraction of the cost...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
That's exactly why they are there. If they work, that's what they do.

As for the collar, if you ever get the urge to do something different you could consider applying a veneer.
Not that hard to work with, and you get all the look at a fraction of the cost...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Didn't think about veneer. Might go that route when i update.
 
Does anyone else sell the MFL bulkhead adapters that Mongoose linked? I tried ordering from the Chi Company but for some reason it doesn't go through. Tired of messing with them.
 
Here's one more piece of advice: when you get all the parts, put them together before even thinking about installing in the keezer collar. Connect to the regulator, and pressurize the system. Make sure you include the vinyl washers for connections, and then ensure that you're not getting any leaks (dunk the setup in a bucket--that's what I did w/ my son's keezer gas distribution connections and manifold).
 
Transferred first batch to my keg. It took damn near an hour to transfer 3 gallons. Is this normal?
In the beginning, had a hard time getting it to flow. Using about 2 PSI and had the carboy on a table and keg on the ground. Eventually got it flowing but it was SLOW.

Also have a gas leak where the plug adapter screws into the post. The two pieces screw in all the way and there is no other way to tighten them up as the two pieces but up together.
Also, should there be a flare washer added where the hose barb screws into the adapter.
Any suggestions on any of these issues?

D33E382C-E64D-4F12-8772-6173715CB331.JPG
 
brew703 said:
[...]Also have a gas leak where the plug adapter screws into the post. The two pieces screw in all the way and there is no other way to tighten them up as the two pieces but up together.
Also, should there be a flare washer added where the hose barb screws into the adapter. Any suggestions on any of these issues?
Click to expand...

The barb to adapter connection absolutely requires a nylon flare washer like one of these
04e04290.jpg


As for the adapter to post connection, the adapter and o-ring are supposed to mimic the threaded keg riser, dip tube and o-ring combination, and seal on their own, but worst-case you can use thread tape to seal that connection...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
The barb to adapter connection absolutely requires a nylon flare washer like one of these
04e04290.jpg


As for the adapter to post connection, the adapter and o-ring are supposed to mimic a keg dip tube and o-ring and seal on their own, but worst-case you can use thread tape to seal that connection...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Thanks. I did use a flare washer where the adapter connects to the post connection. Just wanted to make sure as i figured as much since it was metal to metal contact.
I'll try some thread tape on the barb.
 
I took apart the liquid disconnect and it was clogged with hop junk. Hopefully that's what caused the painfully slow transfer. I'll have to get a hop sock or something to put over the tip of the racking cane to filter that stuff out. I've seen some do that and it's secured with a rubberband. Is that the norm or is there something better to use?
 
brew703 said:
Thanks. I did use a flare washer where the adapter connects to the post connection. Just wanted to make sure as i figured as much since it was metal to metal contact.
I'll try some thread tape on the barb.
Click to expand...

Woof. No, don't do any of that yet. Try to follow this carefully:

- If you actually used a flare washer between the adapter and the post, that's probably why it leaked. Don't do that.
Let the O-ring do its job and see if that connection still leaks. If it does, then use some tape, but definitely do not stick anything else in there!

- Use the flare washer between the 1/4" MFL-1/4" barb fitting and the adapter. You should not need tape there, ever ever.

fwiw, I have the best part of a dozen of these post adapter setups in service, none of them taped in any way, and none of them leak...

Cheers!
 
brew703 said:
I took apart the liquid disconnect and it was clogged with hop junk. Hopefully that's what caused the painfully slow transfer. I'll have to get a hop sock or something to put over the tip of the racking cane to filter that stuff out. I've seen some do that and it's secured with a rubberband. Is that the norm or is there something better to use?
Click to expand...

Assuming you're going into the keg through a quick-disconnect, when it slows down like that, disconnect and reconnect. That has a good chance of clearing a blockage.

The obvious long-term solution is to avoid the trub as you rack, and a hop sock may well work for you. Another thing you can do is rack an inch or two off the bottom of the fermenter so you're not drawing that stuff up into the tubing.
 
brew703 said:
Don't know why these photo's turn sideways. It's correct when i saved it to my desktop.
Click to expand...

Something to do with the EXIF data in the pix. You could do a "lossless jpg" rotation in some picture software, such as ACDSee (not free) to set them "straight."

Or forego the losslessness of such a "specialized" rotation and just rotate in any picture software and save out a copy for posting purposes.
 
day_trippr said:
Woof. No, don't do any of that yet. Try to follow this carefully:

- If you actually used a flare washer between the adapter and the post, that's probably why it leaked. Don't do that.
Let the O-ring do its job and see if that connection still leaks. If it does, then use some tape, but definitely do not stick anything else in there!

- Use the flare washer between the 1/4" MFL-1/4" barb fitting and the adapter. You should not need tape there, ever ever.

fwiw, I have the best part of a dozen of these post adapter setups in service, none of them taped in any way, and none of them leak...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

My fault. the flare washer was installed between the MFL and barb fitting.
 
I transferred my last batch to my keg this past Friday- it was just 3 gallons. I had it sitting in my ferm chamber since then at 38 degrees. Didn't have time to get the co2 hooked up.
My keezer will be operational towards the end of the week and would like to have this beer fully carbed.

Would it be best to force carb or set at a certain PSI and let it ride until the weekend?

If time is an issue (say 2-3 days), what is the best way to carb? What if you have time (4-7 days or longer) which is the best method to carb?

In the future, I would like to have all my beers carbed in under 7 days. What's the best way to do this?
 
brew703 said:
I transferred my last batch to my keg this past Friday- it was just 3 gallons. I had it sitting in my ferm chamber since then at 38 degrees. Didn't have time to get the co2 hooked up.
My keezer will be operational towards the end of the week and would like to have this beer fully carbed.

Would it be best to force carb or set at a certain PSI and let it ride until the weekend?

If time is an issue (say 2-3 days), what is the best way to carb? What if you have time (4-7 days or longer) which is the best method to carb?

In the future, I would like to have all my beers carbed in under 7 days. What's the best way to do this?
Click to expand...
Start with the beer cold (will be if you cold crashed), then purge the headspace, set at 30 psi and leave for 36 hours. Then vent the headspace and reset to 10-12 psi. If you have less than 5 gal in the keg, then adjust the 36 hours proportionately. So, for 3 gals you would use 36 hrs * 3 gal / 5 gal = ~22 hrs @ 30 psi.

Brew on :mug:
 
Another question. I put my co2 tank in my ferm chamber before I left for work today. It's never been used except to purge kegs. It was registering full (in the green) when i left now it shows below the green closer to the red. I turned off the tank so there was no co2 going to the keg and I also turned off the check valve.
Is it normal for the pressure to drop in tank when cold?
 
brew703 said:
Another question. I put my co2 tank in my ferm chamber before I left for work today. It's never been used except to purge kegs. It was registering full (in the green) when i left now it shows below the green closer to the red. I turned off the tank so there was no co2 going to the keg and I also turned off the check valve.
Is it normal for the pressure to drop in tank when cold?
Click to expand...

Yes, that's normal. Most of the CO2 in the tank is liquid, and this liquid is in equilibrium with the CO2 gas in the headspace. Whenever you have a gas in equilibrium with liquid, the gas pressure is solely determined by the temperature (the lower the temp, the lower the equilibrium vapor pressure above the liquid), so the pressure gauge only tells you if there is any liquid at all left in the tank. Once the liquid is gone, then the gauge does represent the amount of CO2 in the tank (which is still affected a little bit by temp.)

Brew on :mug:
 
My beer lines are like 3', no wonder I have a hard time getting anything but foam. I went from the keg to the tap, with a foot or so play. I had no idea this would be a problem. Well I guess I'll have to get some knew lines. I learn something every time I log on. Hope that continues, at the same time getting smarter :mug:
 
Got the faucets installed as well as the bulkheads for my gas lines. Next up will be the beer lines.

I'm using Bev Seal Ultra with the JG fittings. With that said, trying to determine line length. We've talked about this a bit in this thread as well as others that I have read.
Seems like the consensus is 1.5 times regular beer line.

Mikes calculator shows to measure from center of keg, which i assume he means the top to the keg to tap nozzle. From center of keg to the end of the shank is approx 12". The nozzle I assume would be the spout where the beer comes out the faucet right? If so that would be approx 12" as I would have to measure going over the collar and down to the spout. Is that right? Assuming these are the measurements required, that would put me at 12.18' of hose. If I change the diameter of the hose to .200 that would put me at 11.07', so approx 1' difference.
Don't understand why someone doesn't come up with a calculator for bev seal ultra tubing. I'm sure quite a few home brewers use this tubing.
Anyway, would you go with 12.18' or 11.07'? Or just go with 15' or so and cut down as needed?

Does the fan placement make a difference?
 
No, Mike means to measure from the center of the keg vertically. So, about a foot from the top of a corny keg.

Brew on :mug:
 
Right, the idea is to get the average "lift", so you use the middle of the keg as the reference point, then measure the vertical (only!) rise to the faucet. If you're running shanks through a collar you can measure from the center of the keg to the shank. Again, don't add or subtract anything to/from the vertical distance.

Also, what are you using for CO2 pressure in Mike's calculator? You need to know this value. Don't use the default if that's not what you're using.
Refer to our favorite carbonation table to figure that out.

Examples:
If I use 12 psi, 0.1875" ID line (3/16"), a 2 foot lift, 10 second pour and the default 1.009 FG, I get 9.91 feet.
If I use 12 psi, 0.2000" ID line (1/5"), a 2 foot lift, 10 second pour and the default 1.009 FG, I get 13.51 feet.

Cheers!
 

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