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What would be the failure mode of a poppet on a pressurized keg? I've occasional seen them not seat correctly when they are first installed but I do not see how an installed post/poppet could fail.

I have a conditioning fridge. No taps at all (other than a sampling tap) for kegs that are getting carbed, conditioning, or just waiting for an empty tap. I have never seen or considered a keg that is just sitting in a fridge "failing" because it doesn't have a beer out line connected.


lol, over my 16 years of brewing, i assure you i've had more than a few crisper drawers full of beer. at least the last one i had i didn't lose all my co2 too because i noticed my scale going down. but i did lose the keg of beer :(
 
I guess I'm just lucky. I've lost beer and CO2 to leaks between the keg posts and the quick disconnects (from bad o-rings, changing orings every year and no more leaks), from not tightening the post all the way (user error) and around barbs.

I do normally spray a keg with StarSan after disconnecting it to see any leaks. I do not know how a sealed pressurized keg sitting in place can develop a poppet leak.


... I've also removed poppets from the post and QD due to clogging from hops at an event... and then at the end of the day disconnected and ended up with a face full of beer.
 
The whole ball/pin lock design is something in need of a technology overhaul in the 21st century.
Well, they have and its not for the better for us. Soda companies don’t use these kegs anymore. You see the machines they have now in McDonalds, Burger King and other places. They’ve switched to bag in a box systems. This means they don’t have to deal with kegs anymore and the cleaning/maint, etc. Great for them, as it reduces their labor and overhead. But the kegs we are all using have been phased out and they are going to be increasingly more difficult and expensive to buy. Some companies are making new ones if you want to pay $135 for a new 5 gallon keg. The days of cheap used soda kegs are coming to an end if not over already.
 
Well, they have and its not for the better for us. Soda companies don’t use these kegs anymore. You see the machines they have now in McDonalds, Burger King and other places. They’ve switched to bag in a box systems. This means they don’t have to deal with kegs anymore and the cleaning/maint, etc. Great for them, as it reduces their labor and overhead. But the kegs we are all using have been phased out and they are going to be increasingly more difficult and expensive to buy. Some companies are making new ones if you want to pay $135 for a new 5 gallon keg. The days of cheap used soda kegs are coming to an end if not over already.
I agree they are hard to source for cheap. Im based in Ireland and i found a place that sold me 3 refurbished corny kegs for €65 each ($79) and thats a lot lower then anywere eose offered.
 
Thanks for all the info guys im 8nly at this a few months and i have learned a lot from all this advice. I was unable to source EVA tubing but i may stick to MLHB stores recomendation for beer and gas lines to tie me over. I spoke to a guy in the store and he says if i fill my van with all my stuff i can bring it down and pay him 40 for an hour and he will help me hook up my system and i will obviously pay for lines and fittings! But this seems like it will be the best 40 quid i ever spent! Will send pics of my completed keyser.
 
I purchased my first two corny kegs as refurbished then decided that it was more important to me to have kegs that were all the same. Same shape so I don't have to worry about fitting in my keezer. Same diptubes/posts/lids/poppet/ect. so parts are interchangeable and predictable. I also decided I hated the single handle kegs (harder to balance to clean, different pickup, not as easy to move around.)

Ended up with about 20 of these
https://www.homebrewing.org/AIH-New-5-Gallon-Corny-Keg-Ball-Lock_p_5100.html
New 1/6 Sanke are about the same price and what I would do now
https://conical-fermenter.com/1-6-BBL-single-keg-for-sale.html
 
I purchased my first two corny kegs as refurbished then decided that it was more important to me to have kegs that were all the same. Same shape so I don't have to worry about fitting in my keezer. Same diptubes/posts/lids/poppet/ect. so parts are interchangeable and predictable. I also decided I hated the single handle kegs (harder to balance to clean, different pickup, not as easy to move around.)

Ended up with about 20 of these
https://www.homebrewing.org/AIH-New-5-Gallon-Corny-Keg-Ball-Lock_p_5100.html
New 1/6 Sanke are about the same price and what I would do now
https://conical-fermenter.com/1-6-BBL-single-keg-for-sale.html
I have noticed one of the 3 kegs is a different size in height but they fit perfectly into my chest freezer with more space that i might use for conditioning extra bottles. I noticed when i filled my last keg there was suds slipping out of the lid. I stuck the lid back on but same result. Im hoping this is just because i have not hooked up the co2 yet to add pressure as i havnt had the problem since.
 
The used keg lids are notorious for leaking at no/very low pressure. Make sure that you use keg lube on that O-ring to help
I was worried maybe they were bad quality but seems ok now its all under pressure. There is so much i through a blind eye, when i began a few months ago but im finding you cannot ignore anything as it will come back to haunt you! Im pretty sure my keg posts will need changing soon, MLHB store doesnt even know what sizes are on the kegs! Do i measure from the top or do i unscrew and measure the fitting? Also should i lubricate the o rings on my keg posts?
 

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I was worried maybe they were bad quality but seems ok now its all under pressure. There is so much i through a blind eye, when i began a few months ago but im finding you cannot ignore anything as it will come back to haunt you! Im pretty sure my keg posts will need changing soon, MLHB store doesnt even know what sizes are on the kegs! Do i measure from the top or do i unscrew and measure the fitting? Also should i lubricate the o rings on my keg posts?
This might help you
https://www.kegoutlet.com/how-can-i-tell-what-type-of-posts-will-fit-on-my-corny-keg.html
 
Yes you "should" lube all of the o-rings.

I've never seen the posts wear out. The o rings are very cheap to replace. In your picture do you have two o-rings per post? I've never seen that configuration.
 
Yes you "should" lube all of the o-rings.

I've never seen the posts wear out. The o rings are very cheap to replace. In your picture do you have two o-rings per post? I've never seen that configuration.
I wasnt sure myself its how they came unless they stuck a spare in but seems to have worked with two but if ill find out if i just need one ill take the other off if it is spare
 
Just out of curiosity, why do you want your CO2 tank in the freezer (prior pics) and the regulator separate on a remote hose? I had a 5 lb tank leak once from a connection and have since done everything I could to minimize connections. My regulator is attached directly to the tank and outside of the freezer.

How many kegs to you want the gas connected to? I didn't want to drill a hole through the new refrigerator I a currently using so I don't currently even leave the gas line connected to my keg all of the time. When I transfer to the keg and cold crash I clip on the grey gas post for a few seconds, apply my desired pressure (usually 12 psi) and repeat this daily for the first few days as it is carbonating and then only after I drink a few beers. I haven't even bothered to drill a hole in my new refrigerator yet since this just takes a few seconds although some day I probably will.
Turns out if was the wrong regulator!! Hopefully with this new one ill make better progress!
 

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How do you get into a Sanke keg? Is there a tool or something for filling, emptying and cleaning those? The great thing about the soda kegs is the large opening so you can get in there.

Yes, there are special tools. I have seen someone use a clamp from Harbor Freight with a bushing and small screwdrivers. The keg spear is pushed down a bit to relieve pressure on the lock ring so it can be pried out.
 
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