Kegco Mill?

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wilserbrewer said:
Swap the end plates? There are calibration #'s on the outer drive plate, but that's not a big deal....

Maybe I'm missing something idk...
Click to expand...
I thought about that oo but the bearing holes appear to be recessed channels for the bearing to fit from one way only so they dont work there way out... this means I likely cant invert them.. well see when mine comes...

BTW The seller I messaged last week finally got back to me asking for pictures of the problem with my item... two separate emails...
It pretty obvious the seller I asked doesnt know english since they completely misunderstood me.... I did purchase from a different seller though.
 
Update.... do not buy the $102 ebay mill. it is not the 3 roller mill in thier pictures but a 3 roll version of the 2 roll mill in thier pics and the quality is very poor... so much so the rollers on the top at one end dont close leaving a 1/16 gap at that end with the cam fully closed and the other end dont even allow me to turn the cam all the way without the rollers closing on each other... They are also at an angle... I will upload photos later. I have requested a return. and the knurling is very low compared to my CK mill which would be the same as the kegco.

There are bearings pressed into the ends of each roller... I know this because the mill came broken and some screws fell out along with a roller in the box!
 
Hey all. I'm building from scratch and a mill is just one of those components. To be honest for years I worked with the JSP non-adjustable to good effect. But the world moves on, and so will I.

I've been looking at MM's, mostly because they're ubiquitous on this site and I've seen some fantastic builds I'd like to make from. I've never seemed to have the need for 3 rollers (probably due to my going so heavy in British pale), and am looking at the Monster Pro 2, coupled to an AAB 180 HP.

That said, people here seem pretty geeked about the Kegco, even if, as it appears to be, it's a knockoff. Do I have it right, the Kegco has bearings, the MM has bushings? How important is that to people in terms of durability, when powering the mill? Is it as important an issue if one is powering head-on (as in couplers and a motor) v. drawing laterally, as with a pulley system?

I, too, would like to stay in touch with the thread over time. Would love to see about "toughness" under working conditions, and hear any comparative perspectives of MM v. these Kegco users. As I have it set right now, my MM would cost $374....
 
I just picked up a floor model, no box or instructions and pre-assembled. What's a good setting for the gap?

Also, on the gap setting plate, I noticed starting from the bottom it's 0, .032, .063, .032.......Do the setting have to mirror the other? As in if it was set to say .0457.....does that setting have to be above the left .032 on one side then the above the left .032 on the right side or do they need to be on opposites?

This is my first mill.
 
Optimal gap depends on the depth of the knurling and the type of grain.
On my 2-roller I use .035 for barley and .030 for wheat.

I wouldn't rely on any mill markings for accurately setting the gap end to end.
If you don't have a feeler gauge set a credit card is ~.035 thick...

Cheers!
 
Gadjobrinus said:
Hey all. I'm building from scratch and a mill is just one of those components. To be honest for years I worked with the JSP non-adjustable to good effect. But the world moves on, and so will I.

I've been looking at MM's, mostly because they're ubiquitous on this site and I've seen some fantastic builds I'd like to make from. I've never seemed to have the need for 3 rollers (probably due to my going so heavy in British pale), and am looking at the Monster Pro 2, coupled to an AAB 180 HP.

That said, people here seem pretty geeked about the Kegco, even if, as it appears to be, it's a knockoff. Do I have it right, the Kegco has bearings, the MM has bushings? How important is that to people in terms of durability, when powering the mill? Is it as important an issue if one is powering head-on (as in couplers and a motor) v. drawing laterally, as with a pulley system?

I, too, would like to stay in touch with the thread over time. Would love to see about "toughness" under working conditions, and hear any comparative perspectives of MM v. these Kegco users. As I have it set right now, my MM would cost $374....
Click to expand...
It's not exactly a knock off.pretty close though.. There are a lot of brands of Mills and they all share the same basic design... The cereal killer and kegco 2 roll mill are the same mill from everything I've found. It's a very good mill. Been using mine for 4 years.
I don't know if they both actually use bearings or not. I know the early cereal killer used the bushings like the barley crusher but then they changed the design a few years ago to use bearings.
 
My barley crusher stopped working last night when I went to get ready for a brew I was planning for today. I spent awhile taking it apart and cleaning it which usually get it working before, but not this time. :mad:

Anyways, I came across this kegco 3 roller mill and was wondering if I could just repurpose the barley crushers base for it. I'm guessing I would have to open the hole up more and some bolts, I don't see any size listed for what is needed though. Would there be any problem in reusing the barley crusher base?
 
Clef051 said:
My barley crusher stopped working last night when I went to get ready for a brew I was planning for today. I spent awhile taking it apart and cleaning it which usually get it working before, but not this time. :mad:

Anyways, I came across this kegco 3 roller mill and was wondering if I could just repurpose the barley crushers base for it. I'm guessing I would have to open the hole up more and some bolts, I don't see any size listed for what is needed though. Would there be any problem in reusing the barley crusher base?
Click to expand...

Should work fine. Just compared the Kegco mounting pattern to the Barley Crusher's and no issues. Kegco uses four mounting bolts vs. Crusher's two, and discharge slot will need to be enlarged.

BTW, that's the same reason I bought the Kegco mill (but haven't had a chance to use it yet.)

Brew on :mug:
 
day_trippr said:
Optimal gap depends on the depth of the knurling and the type of grain.
On my 2-roller I use .035 for barley and .030 for wheat.

I wouldn't rely on any mill markings for accurately setting the gap end to end.
If you don't have a feeler gauge set a credit card is ~.035 thick...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Trippr, though I think on a 3-roller, I'm partial to 2-rollers. What's yours?

And anyone with the Kegco, do you have any particular thoughts on their two roller? Are those BB-based?
 
Gadjobrinus said:
Trippr, though I think on a 3-roller, I'm partial to 2-rollers. What's yours?

And anyone with the Kegco, do you have any particular thoughts on their two roller? Are those BB-based?
Click to expand...

I have the kegco 2 roller (mine was sold as a cereal killer with a wooden base) They have hardened rollers and ball bearings. I'm fairly sure they are also sold as the "Keg king" mills in Oz and by others as well... You can also buy them direct on ebay and aliexpress non branded.

Mine works great for almost 4 years now..I also found the marking unreliable and use a credit card.. Just went to 3 roller because they are supposed to allow a better crush with less shredding of the husks if I remember right? In any case I wont know what im missing until I have the chance to have first hand experience with both.
 
OK, thanks. Yep, I believe the 3 rollers essentially strip the hull off, leaving it intact, then the kernel is crushed properly. So it both exposes the kernel to a more efficient crush, and makes for a better lauter.

I actually am curious on the 3 roller. My only hesitation is that someone somewhere said that to adjust the lower rollers, you have to disassemble the mill? I probably scanned that too quickly.
 
Adjustment of the 3 roller, in my experience, is largely determined by how you mount your mill. I have mine mounted permanently to a cart, and I adjust mine from below the mill. I use "L" shaped feeler gauges which allows me to insert, adjust, etc. from underneath the mill with minimal effort.
 
cyberbackpacker said:
Adjustment of the 3 roller, in my experience, is largely determined by how you mount your mill. I have mine mounted permanently to a cart, and I adjust mine from below the mill. I use "L" shaped feeler gauges which allows me to insert, adjust, etc. from underneath the mill with minimal effort.
Click to expand...

Thanks Cyber. I'm having a hard time getting ahold of how you actually do it. (It doesn't help that I've never seen the mill, the MM, any of these). Aren't only the rollers exposed from below? If you don't mind, can't image what you're saying, sorry.
 
Gadjobrinus said:
Thanks Cyber. I'm having a hard time getting ahold of how you actually do it. (It doesn't help that I've never seen the mill, the MM, any of these). Aren't only the rollers exposed from below? If you don't mind, can't image what you're saying, sorry.
Click to expand...


Look @ the pics of the mills, on Monster Brewing Hardware's site, ( link posted earlier).

One roller is moveable, closer or further from the stationary roller.

Also on your thread, the manufacturer replied, on the mill in question.

And if you or augiedoggy are on F B, they have their newest products posted up there.

https://www.facebook.com/MonsterBrewingHardware/

But check with augiedoggy if you have any questions, on any mills, and where they are made and the like......:D
 
Stealthcruiser said:
Look @ the pics of the mills, on Monster Brewing Hardware's site, ( link posted earlier).

One roller is moveable, closer or further from the stationary roller.

Also on your thread, the manufacturer replied, on the mill in question.

And if you or augiedoggy are on F B, they have their newest products posted up there.

https://www.facebook.com/MonsterBrewingHardware/

But check with augiedoggy if you have any questions, on any mills, and where they are made and the like......:D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the FB link, stealth, didn't know they had it. In truth I'm on their website constantly ..... as I'm adding and removing the MM2 Pro and MM3 Pro and relevant hoppers. I don't have a problem deciding or anything....
 
I bought the Kegco Mill about 3 weeks ago and have just over 50lbs through it already. I built a table and it's bolted to a piece of 1/2" oak ply. I also motorized it. It's driven by a 3/4hp 1725rpm motor with a 10:1 right angle reduction gear box. It's coupled to the mill with a set of Lovejoy couplers. The mill came complete with bearings instead of bushings. I have it set a hair above the .032 mark and it crushes perfect. Does about 10lbs a minute and with everything else being equal, brought my efficiency up to an average of 82% from the low 70's i was getting before. Time will tell how long the rollers last but so far it's been the best investment I've made so far. Only thing better would be a hopper extension for more grain.

Jeramie
 
fsfrancis said:
Anyone know if you can get spare parts for the Kegco Mill?
Click to expand...
I know you make the MM and are kind of trolling here with this statement but to answer honestly because its a valid question and point .

Short answer I guess is yes, you can buy a complete second mill for parts and still come out ahead financially. at least this was true 2 weeks ago when the basic 3 roller mm was over $300 with a hopper and handle. now it depends on the cost of your replacement parts.

I have found the bearing are easy to find from many places by googling the part number on them but unlike bushings they likely will outlive the mill although bushings can be found at many hardware stores... Not sure what else a person would want speaking realistically here... New rollers? Nothing else could wear out right?
I bet replacements rollers from mill companies that offer them sell for more than this mill costs. This needs to be factored in.

Ive never heard of anyone actually ordering replacement parts for their mills here honestly regardless of cost in any mill thread..Honestly there was a lot of mills sent back to the manufacturer for repair in the Barley crusher threads but thats it.
Its one of those points that a person might bring up to argue a point for spending much more but its not something that I think would honestly ever be appreciated by most who are looking to upgrade anyway by the time they might wear one of these out.. like a recent poster who could use his old JSP mill but chooses to buy something more advanced..

This has been beaten to death but it apparently has gone missed by some but to look at the reasoning behind the flip side of this. We are not comparing apples to apples here when comparing any other mill even remotely priced close to this mill. I own another chinese 3 roller mill that shares the same design as this mill but has an inferior hopper and the quality is terrible (although it too has ball bearing and even black carbon steel rollers ironically).

To get the same features on a monster mill for example such as a 1/2" shaft, ball bearings (and POSSIBLY hardened rollers as this aspect is unconfirmed and hearsay either way with the kegco mill,) A person has to spend over $600 for one mill! , and thats a 2 roller mill.
I could buy 4 kegco mills and have them last me 20 years or more and still be ahead with that reasoning. I doubt I'll have to because my older 2 roller CK mill is made the same way by the same manufacturer and appears to have the same type of rollers only smaller they are still as sharp as the new kegco rollers after 3 years of decent use.

Look at all the folks that bought the barley crusher with its lifetime warranty only to replace it with something else anyway because of issues with the bushings and or worn rollers causing it to not pull grain in anymore. Some folks sent thier mill back more than once to be repaired only to slowly realize the mill they paid $50 more for was not as well made or reliable as its cheaper clone and that is the truth as sad as it sounds. If its made well enough you wont need replacement parts short of possible bearing or bushings unless someone does something wrong..
 
Dirty-Thumb-Brewery said:
I bought the Kegco Mill about 3 weeks ago and have just over 50lbs through it already. I built a table and it's bolted to a piece of 1/2" oak ply. I also motorized it. It's driven by a 3/4hp 1725rpm motor with a 10:1 right angle reduction gear box. It's coupled to the mill with a set of Lovejoy couplers. The mill came complete with bearings instead of bushings. I have it set a hair above the .032 mark and it crushes perfect. Does about 10lbs a minute and with everything else being equal, brought my efficiency up to an average of 82% from the low 70's i was getting before. Time will tell how long the rollers last but so far it's been the best investment I've made so far. Only thing better would be a hopper extension for more grain.

Jeramie
Click to expand...

Jeramie, would you mind sharing what couplers you're using? I've got the Kegco 3 (12 mm) marrying a 5/8" keyless shafted motor and so far I've not found hubs and an applicable spider. I'm new to this, though, so I'm not surprised.
 
augiedoggy said:
I know you make the MM and are kind of trolling here with this statement but to answer honestly because its a valid question and point .

Short answer I guess is yes, you can buy a complete second mill for parts and still come out ahead financially. at least this was true 2 weeks ago when the basic 3 roller mm was over $300 with a hopper and handle. now it depends on the cost of your replacement parts.

I have found the bearing are easy to find from many places by googling the part number on them but unlike bushings they likely will outlive the mill although bushings can be found at many hardware stores... Not sure what else a person would want speaking realistically here... New rollers? Nothing else could wear out right?
I bet replacements rollers from mill companies that offer them sell for more than this mill costs. This needs to be factored in.

Ive never heard of anyone actually ordering replacement parts for their mills here honestly regardless of cost in any mill thread..Honestly there was a lot of mills sent back to the manufacturer for repair in the Barley crusher threads but thats it.
Its one of those points that a person might bring up to argue a point for spending much more but its not something that I think would honestly ever be appreciated by most who are looking to upgrade anyway by the time they might wear one of these out.. like a recent poster who could use his old JSP mill but chooses to buy something more advanced..

This has been beaten to death but it apparently has gone missed by some but to look at the reasoning behind the flip side of this. We are not comparing apples to apples here when comparing any other mill even remotely priced close to this mill. I own another chinese 3 roller mill that shares the same design as this mill but has an inferior hopper and the quality is terrible (although it too has ball bearing and even black carbon steel rollers ironically).

To get the same features on a monster mill for example such as a 1/2" shaft, ball bearings (and POSSIBLY hardened rollers as this aspect is unconfirmed and hearsay either way with the kegco mill,) A person has to spend over $600 for one mill! , and thats a 2 roller mill.
I could buy 4 kegco mills and have them last me 20 years or more and still be ahead with that reasoning. I doubt I'll have to because my older 2 roller CK mill is made the same way by the same manufacturer and appears to have the same type of rollers only smaller they are still as sharp as the new kegco rollers after 3 years of decent use.

Look at all the folks that bought the barley crusher with its lifetime warranty only to replace it with something else anyway because of issues with the bushings and or worn rollers causing it to not pull grain in anymore. Some folks sent thier mill back more than once to be repaired only to slowly realize the mill they paid $50 more for was not as well made or reliable as its cheaper clone and that is the truth as sad as it sounds. If its made well enough you wont need replacement parts short of possible bearing or bushings unless someone does something wrong..
Click to expand...

Replacement drive rollers are $42 on my site, as well as replacement bushing sets for $5, no finding necessary.

Where do you keep getting this $600 number? Monster Mill prices have not changed in more than 3 years, Up or down...retail, OR wholesale....The MM-3 that is comparable to this mill is $189, plus $45 for the base and hopper.

What do you do if you bend the shaft on your Kegco mill? or any other mill for that matter?

How can you say the Kegco mill will last 20 years, or even 5? 4 mills for 5 years each? They haven't been IMPORTED long enough to know how long they will last because none have been in service long enough. I guess everyone thought the Barley Crusher was a good deal when it came out, and it's made of the same inexpensive 1018 as the Kegco mill....seems like a pattern to me, and YES, I am trolling...

Monster mills have been sold since 2007, you can look it up.

Why don't you have a problem with someone here in the US sending my mill to China to have it COPIED, and sold for cheaper than I can produce it here by one of my main dealers?

Seems like you are a real proponent of these Chinese mills. How many have you purchased? You mention at least two in the post above.
 
Well I'm considering buying a mill as I'm using a Corona mill cranked by hand and I would like something that would last me some time.

Money being not an object I'm looking for something good that has high quality and that has been tried and tested.

I believe the MM3 Pro with heat treated rolls at $380+ will certainly meet and exceed my needs and looking long term might help me if I ever decide to go commercial.

Plus the company has been around for 10 years and that says something.

On the other hand the kegco mill is the cheaper option it is only $151 dlls today including a 20% discount. However it has not been in the market long enough to earn my trust.

It seems there are not many reviews going around. Plus they have taken the info from MM3 website not changing it, which makes them mention other things they do not have within their product specs. So if they are lazy on the simple aspect of writing a description it makes me wonder what else they cut corners on.

I'm certainly really inclined to buy the Monster Mill I certainly would like it if they had discounts on the mills as purchasing the extra hoppers, base and gap gauge.

However the 200 I could save could go towards other brewing equipment.

But in the end if the price is quality I much rather buy quality over quantity.

Will definitely try and get a Monster Mill soon.

Cheers
-Zlaker
 
The Pro series heat treated mill is overkill for any home brewer. it's not really necessary. If you do turn pro, it can run up to a 5bbl micro. Save some $$ now, get the MM-2 with half inch shaft, and base/hopper, and then get the big mamma jamma when you go pro.
 
fsfrancis said:
The Pro series heat treated mill is overkill for any home brewer. it's not really necessary. If you do turn pro, it can run up to a 5bbl micro. Save some $$ now, get the MM-2 with half inch shaft, and base/hopper, and then get the big mamma jamma when you go pro.
Click to expand...

Thanks but in Mexico is easier to go pro than in the states, most of my brewing will be Comercial and I much rather spend well once than to have to make another purchase in a couple of months or within a year.
 
cyberbackpacker said:
It is most definitely a 15/32"; there is zero play between the shaft and the 15/32 Lovejoy coupler.

Edit: Pic added.

img_0909-67314.jpg
Click to expand...

Just trying to figure this out. There's no L-075 in 12mm and the only hub without keyway in 15/32 I'm seeing is L-050, and it is listing at $90! I didn't know you can put a keyed coupling on a keyless shaft like this (that is what I'm seeing, right?)...? That would certainly simplify a couple things, if it's not an issue.
 
fsfrancis said:
Why don't you have a problem with someone here in the US sending my mill to China to have it COPIED, and sold for cheaper than I can produce it here by one of my main dealers?

Seems like you are a real proponent of these Chinese mills. How many have you purchased? You mention at least two in the post above.
Click to expand...
I do think its unfortunate that someone else copied your hopper design but what I think is more unfortunate is that they have improved the design over the mills they copied and sell a better copy than the original in some cases with better components and for much much less money.

Thats the real point here everyone keeps trying to detract from. The best value for the homebrewer. Or at least those most concerned for getting the best value for their dollar.
There are more than 2 mill brands that use the same design as yours.. Many homebrewing mills use the same layout and cam adjustment system as yours they all copied this from someone. I honestly didnt know you invented this type of adjustable grain mill.. I assume that you patented it though and were able to recoup your costs for a while before all the others popped up? It has been 10 years now?

I bought the other mill for a nano as a backup on ebay and tried to return it when I found it was assemble incorrectly and damaged... Turns out even though I got my money back the seller didnt want to pay return shipping costs. between my partner and I We also have an actual monster mill 3 roller as well as a barley crusher and cereal killer so yeah it kind of upsets me that what appears to be the best mills are the chinese ones... and what also upsets me is the constant "you get what you pay for" stereotypes even when it isnt always the case. It wasnt with the very popular BC but but its tough to fight marketing and thats what landed so many with an inferior made BC.. I'm trying to compare the engineering and quality of one mill against another and it of course it turns to politics and geography to sidetrack the discussion... Never mind the multiple other products copied by different vendors in the industry and improved on. We have many clones of camco elements being sold (and it took stainless clones to persuade camco to follow suit and sell their own stainless based version) and many clones of stouts ported kettles and conical designs including those by American manufacturers and more commonly american branded Chinese made goods ..

As far as the prices not changing I must be mistaken but Im having trouble with that because when I looked before I quoted 269 for the basic mill without the needed hopper or a handle to turn it if not motorized. still with shipping your 3 roller basic mill is $300 shipped complete with the stuff that comes standard on the kegco.
I also remember reading a completely different explanation of features on your site thats been reworded, and reading one that mentioned the benefits of bearing and that they could be ordered as an option along with hardened rollers on any of the pro series mills but thats not the case now as it reads so maybe I was reading from someone elses site?
When I look on amazon and ebay and such many are still selling for much more than what I found on your site last week.
The $600 was for a comparable mill with actual bearings which apparently is the 2 roller sl with the " pulley drive option" once you factor in the rest of the mill which you sell separate, for about $600

At the end of the day both mills appear to be solid performers and I havent seen complaints of use with either.. One just cost twice as much as the other because its made in the states (unless you dont need a hopper of handle) .. Its up to the consumer to decide which they want.
My outlook was I wanted a mill with the best features I could get for the best price and was even open to buying a used mill to get it. I found the k3 and due to my positive results with their 2 roller mill I decided it was worth it for me since I dont want a mill that uses bronze bushings myself. I understand the difference between sacrificial bushings vs bearings as I work with both every day. These bushings are under constant sideload pressure as long as the mill is crushing grain and to me that equals potential for wear and more maintenance and Im they guy that deals with that maintenance on the equipment I service at work as I would be at home when the mill isnt working correctly at the beginning of a brewing session.
 
fsfrancis said:
The Pro series heat treated mill is overkill for any home brewer. it's not really necessary. If you do turn pro, it can run up to a 5bbl micro. Save some $$ now, get the MM-2 with half inch shaft, and base/hopper, and then get the big mamma jamma when you go pro.
Click to expand...

So then on a more productive point, if it wasnt the non hardened rollers that caused so many complaints with the Barley crusher than it had to be the oil impregnated bronze bushings failing or getting full of grain dust right?
Many people can confirm the BC had to be disassembled and have the bushings cleaned out often or it would stick. Does this ever happen with your mills or is it not a problem?
 
On mine I used a 1/2" love joy and there was alittle play in it. It tightened up good though and isn't binding anything durring use. I just set the gap of the couplers alittle big and all is well. 15/32" looks to be perfect and I'll probable swap it out at some point.

Jeramie
 
Gadjobrinus said:
Just trying to figure this out. There's no L-075 in 12mm and the only hub without keyway in 15/32 I'm seeing is L-050, and it is listing at $90! I didn't know you can put a keyed coupling on a keyless shaft like this (that is what I'm seeing, right?)...? That would certainly simplify a couple things, if it's not an issue.
Click to expand...

You are seeing correctly... because of the flats on the shaft of the kegco, using a keyed coupling works fine because you can get so much purchase with the set screws on the drive shaft.

I have probably a literal ton of grain through my mill without any issues...

:mug:
 
just a heads up I found that williams brewing does sell a bamboo base for these mills for $17
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/MALTMUNCHER-LAMINATED-BAMBOO-BASE-P4265.aspx

They also sell the mill (under its alternative keg king branding) Notice they assembled the hopper side skirts incorrectly in the photo..
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/MALTMUNCHER-THREE-ROLLER-MILL-P3829.aspx

and most importantly they sell a motor kit for these for $199 reviews state it works fine in the states even though the sticker says 50hz power

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/TRIPLE-ROLLER-GRAIN-MILL-MOTORIZING-KIT-P4173.aspx
 
I have that motor kit. The motor itself is great; not too big/heavy and runs my MM3 just fine. The coupling is a hunk of garbage. Replaced it with the appropriate Lovejoy coupling.
 
Has anyone modified the aluminum casing over the rollers to allow gap adjustments without taking it apart? I'm thinking that a small cut in the aluminum would allow passing a feeler gauge through. Any thoughts?
 
Just got my 3-roller a lil bit ago and so far pretty happy.

I went ahead and bought a second (don't ask) for the purposes of experimenting around and making a motor attachment. But I just ended up attaching a cordless drill to my crank using low RPM's.

I had extra plywood and created my own base for both on my CNC, one longer than the other with the intention of mounting a motor or permanent drill

If anyone is interested I think I might end up selling my extra Kegco which hasn't been touched and still in box :)

IMG_5899.JPG


IMG_5908.JPG


IMG_5948.JPG


IMG_6141.JPG
 

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