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New England IPA Julius clone (BYO magazine)

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So I think I have got it figured out now... Tell me if these numbers sound ballpark correct using with distilled water (basing it off ~4 gallons for the mash)

CaCl2 - 5g or 1 1/2 tsp
SO4 - 2g or 1/2 tsp

From what I calculate, that should bring the mash water to something like this:

Ca - 121
SO4 - 74
Cl - 159

If I wanted to bump up the Ca and Cl to get the above profile DrGMG mentioned, then I'd just add another gram of CaCl2, something like 1 3/4 tsp then I believe.

I'm hoping that sounds right or I am going to slam my head into the wall.. haha.

For anyone else that was confused by this as much as I was (or maybe it was just me), finding this helped tons http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3...h-ph/using-salts-for-brewing-water-adjustment ... I think the part that threw me off was finding out how much ppm is added by each additive. Once that clicked, it made much more sense to me finding the levels I needed to get to.
 
That's called learnin!

For sure, it's definitely easier for some people. For me it was easy to understand, but I have a solid base with my studies in geochemistry.

There should be a video on YouTube, I recall watching a primer on beersmith and bru'n water, when I bought beersmith.
 
Brew day went great-for the most part-on Saturday. One simple rookie mistake that I am just kicking myself for however. Took my SG once I was ready to boil and it came out at 1.040. I drew 7.5 gallons, which is more than I generally take, but I wanted to overshoot a bit to get closer to 6 gallons when pitching. So here I am, wondering and worrying how this is possible-I generally get great efficiency when fly sparging and have never been so far off... I'm thinking, what a mistake it was to take 7.5 gallons, should have killed it at 6.5-7.

So I boiled for an extra 60-75 minutes before my hop additions to make up the difference and just hoping to come in around 1.060. So at the end I grab my OG and it's 1.074 with a little over 5 gallons of wort... And at this point I am just wondering how the hell this is possible. Then it hits me 20 minutes later what happened... I didn't account for the temperature adjustment, which was around 140* when I took the SG. Threw that into a calculator and my SG was actually 1.053, so about perfect of what I needed. So looks like this batch is going to be a bit higher on the ABV than I wanted, but overall I am just glad I figured out my mistake because I was stumped for a few hours. I paid too close attention to all the fine details and totally skipped the simple steps... Oh well. I will say, the fermentation smells amazingly hoppy right now and I love it. The color looks great as well. Will probably pitch the dry hop in a couple days and see where it's at.

The only negative experience I had was using the HopShot. Can't say I am huge fan, because that stuff is a pain in the ass to clean off. It leeched onto my kettle (obviously) but also my chiller, and anything else that touched the wort. StarSan did next to nothing to rid anything of it after 2 cleanses.

Just wanted to say thanks again to those who helped me understand the water chemistry bit and with other questions.. Excited to try this batch out.
 
Brew day went great-for the most part-on Saturday. One simple rookie mistake that I am just kicking myself for however. Took my SG once I was ready to boil and it came out at 1.040. I drew 7.5 gallons, which is more than I generally take, but I wanted to overshoot a bit to get closer to 6 gallons when pitching. So here I am, wondering and worrying how this is possible-I generally get great efficiency when fly sparging and have never been so far off... I'm thinking, what a mistake it was to take 7.5 gallons, should have killed it at 6.5-7.

So I boiled for an extra 60-75 minutes before my hop additions to make up the difference and just hoping to come in around 1.060. So at the end I grab my OG and it's 1.074 with a little over 5 gallons of wort... And at this point I am just wondering how the hell this is possible. Then it hits me 20 minutes later what happened... I didn't account for the temperature adjustment, which was around 140* when I took the SG. Threw that into a calculator and my SG was actually 1.053, so about perfect of what I needed. So looks like this batch is going to be a bit higher on the ABV than I wanted, but overall I am just glad I figured out my mistake because I was stumped for a few hours. I paid too close attention to all the fine details and totally skipped the simple steps... Oh well. I will say, the fermentation smells amazingly hoppy right now and I love it. The color looks great as well. Will probably pitch the dry hop in a couple days and see where it's at.

The only negative experience I had was using the HopShot. Can't say I am huge fan, because that stuff is a pain in the ass to clean off. It leeched onto my kettle (obviously) but also my chiller, and anything else that touched the wort. StarSan did next to nothing to rid anything of it after 2 cleanses.

Just wanted to say thanks again to those who helped me understand the water chemistry bit and with other questions.. Excited to try this batch out.

You may get more hop oil extraction with the higher abv. It will be good and keep us updated.
 
Dry hopped today, and almost surprised to see it's just about finished already... Sitting at 1.018 this morning. Conan does some fast work.
 
I just brewed a julius clone with half us 2 row and half irish ale malt with 1318 yeast. Its my closest clone to date.
 
Good afternoon.

Goign to brew this next week and just wondering which you think would be the best pale ale malt
Would you go for
Crisp Extra Pale Maris Otter
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1283

or Muntons Pale Malt - PROPINO
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=674

Thanks

Also no honey malt available here so do you think Weyermann Melanoidin Malt will be fine?

https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=111

For this recipe I'd go with the lighter base malt - the Crisp XL MO, which is half the EBC/SRM of the Muntons malt.

I try to keep the Gambrinus honey malt in stock (according to BS2 I have ~4 pounds right now) because it's a remarkably unique ingredient. There's no real sub for it - Melanoidin definitely isn't, that's more a toasted malt character than honey.

If ya have to brew without it but don't want to end up with something quite different, use C20 in its place. It's relatively benign...

Cheers!
 
So forgot to follow up on this. I bottled a week after I brewed the beer. It didn't drop any further than 1.018 which I was fine with where it was at. Love the flavor and head retention, it turned out pretty good. The color was slightly darker than I wanted but that's a small complaint. I plan to rebrew this without making the rookie mistake and see how it ends up. So far the haze has held until now, I've been checking a bottle or 2 a week and it's been fine.
 
Brewed this one up a while back, nice beer. Used 1318 and it finished at 1.018, higher than my other NEIPA attempts with that yeast. Weird thing is this beer ended up dropping clear in the keg before it kicked, never had another NEIPA recipe drop clear on me like that before. Still, tasty recipe, would brew again.

IMG_20170316_173707.jpg
 
So forgot to follow up on this. I bottled a week after I brewed the beer. It didn't drop any further than 1.018 which I was fine with where it was at. Love the flavor and head retention, it turned out pretty good. The color was slightly darker than I wanted but that's a small complaint. I plan to rebrew this without making the rookie mistake and see how it ends up. So far the haze has held until now, I've been checking a bottle or 2 a week and it's been fine.

Has your beer turned to the color of swamp water? I have noticed that in mine they start to turn brown after 3 weeks of bottling. Even bottling out of the primary.

Although, I just opened my flip top 64 oz growler that was filled to the brim and it looked like the color of straw, just beautiful. So, I think what headspace was left in the growler was consumed by the yeast during bottle conditioning. But, the headspace left in 12 oz bottles is too much, and not able to be consumed during bottle conditioning. Hope it makes sense, just typing while thinking.
 
Has your beer turned to the color of swamp water? I have noticed that in mine they start to turn brown after 3 weeks of bottling. Even bottling out of the primary.



Although, I just opened my flip top 64 oz growler that was filled to the brim and it looked like the color of straw, just beautiful. So, I think what headspace was left in the growler was consumed by the yeast during bottle conditioning. But, the headspace left in 12 oz bottles is too much, and not able to be consumed during bottle conditioning. Hope it makes sense, just typing while thinking.


So far, so good. I'll be coming up on 3 weeks this Saturday but it's a yellow-orange now. Which yeast did you use when it turned colors? I used Conan on mine.. I'll keep an eye on it and let you know if the color starts to drop out
 
So far, so good. I'll be coming up on 3 weeks this Saturday but it's a yellow-orange now. Which yeast did you use when it turned colors? I used Conan on mine.. I'll keep an eye on it and let you know if the color starts to drop out

1318 has lasted the longest, but 1056 went after a week, Conan (TYB)I got three before they turned. Do you use a bottling bucket or do you bottle out of the primary?
 
1318 has lasted the longest, but 1056 went after a week, Conan (TYB)I got three before they turned. Do you use a bottling bucket or do you bottle out of the primary?

I had this exact problem with this style of beer. Its absolutely from oxidation. The beer turns brownish and dull looking, and the aroma and flavor just gets stale while the bitterness remains. I tried the same thing you did, but it didn't change until I started kegging and could do closed transfers and flush everything with C02. I'm not sure how people have success bottling these types of beers unless its bottling from a keg
 
I had this exact problem with this style of beer. Its absolutely from oxidation. The beer turns brownish and dull looking, and the aroma and flavor just gets stale while the bitterness remains. I tried the same thing you did, but it didn't change until I started kegging and could do closed transfers and flush everything with C02. I'm not sure how people have success bottling these types of beers unless its bottling from a keg

I totally agree. Kegging is the best option for this beer. Problem is I drink it much faster. My last 5 gallon batch never saw 2 weeks
 
I'll third it to seal the deal. If it's turning, it's absolutely oxidized. Just dump it, you won't enjoy them at all. Kegging via direct transfer is the only way to go with these guys.
 
So would you guys recommend either a glass carboy, brew bucket or a bottling bucket to ferment in to prevent oxidisation.Ill be begging my brew. Want to avoid a nasty brown brew as much as possible
 
I do glass carboy.
Throw the first dryhop pellets in at day 4.
2nd dryhop in keg with strained dip tube at day 10.
Closed transfer to serving keg and force carb on day 14
 
BrewBuckets by Ss for me. Easy direct transfer to keg with no oxygen pickup.
 
I always put a blanket of co2 in the recieving vessel (keg or secondary glass carboy) Then I use a carboy cap installed on the glass carboy I am transferring from, with a ss racking cane in the center hole and co2 hooked up on the other. Put a little pressure to start the siphon and let it go. I haven't had an issue with oxidation with any other of my brews. Is there a specific concern of why I should be more worried about this brew?
 
I'm really thinking galaxy instead of simcoe. Just did one basically subbing out the simcoe and I'm getting that pineapply flavor I get in the treehouses.
Also thinking of lowering the turbinado %
 
I always put a blanket of co2 in the recieving vessel (keg or secondary glass carboy) Then I use a carboy cap installed on the glass carboy I am transferring from, with a ss racking cane in the center hole and co2 hooked up on the other. Put a little pressure to start the siphon and let it go. I haven't had an issue with oxidation with any other of my brews. Is there a specific concern of why I should be more worried about this brew?

The concern is the amount of hops and dry hops. Oxygen kills the beer so quickly if exposed to outside elements. Your process seems to eliminate that and should yield good results.
 
I'm really thinking galaxy instead of simcoe. Just did one basically subbing out the simcoe and I'm getting that pineapply flavor I get in the treehouses.
Also thinking of lowering the turbinado %

I don't think there's a substitute for simcoe...but I did it just now with grapefruit experimental. Should be ready in 3 weeks.
 
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