mbarto
Member
Is a low chilling time strictly a sanitation issue, or can the amount of time also affect other factors in the final product (taste, texture, etc...)?
Beer Snob said:Ok.... so now the tough question... how long is the chilling time? Longest I've gone has been two hours.
the_bird said:I just priced out copper tubing from Depot, and MAN is it expensive! It can't be cheaper to build than to buy right now. Depending on how much tubing and the size, I was looking at spending upwards of $75 before buying any of the fittings or anything. Kinda takes the pleasure out of the deal I got on the turkey fryer at the same location!
the_bird said:... but is 25 feet of 3/8 enough?
I picked up a Flotec 1/6 hp submersible pump from home depot for $59. It comes with a hose adapter. $4 for a 5 gallon bucket. I already had two 6' lengths of 3/4" garden hose, but if you needed those they are about $6 each, and then the cost of the ice, which as you know, is pretty cheap.mbarto said:How pricey/difficult is it to get a small pump and recirculate ice-water?
johnsma22 said:The process could not be easier. Use your tap water to get your wort down to under 100?F, then disconnect your tap water hose from the chiller. Connect one hose to the discharge of the pump, drop the pump into the ice water, and connect the discharge hose to the input of the chiller. Now take the output hose from the chiller and just put into the ice water bucket. Now turn on the pump and allow the ice water to recirculate until you hit your desired yeast pitching temperature. Done.
johnsma22 said:Yeah, I agree with you Chimone. My tap water temp is at about 75˚F right now. The best it will do is to get my wort down to about 88˚F in 25-30 minutes or so.
I tried a procedure that was recommended to me by a very experienced, award winning homebrewer. After you get the wort down to around 100˚F with your tap water, disconnect your supply water hose from the tap and connect it to the discharge of a 1/6 hp submersible pump sitting in a 5 gallon bucket filled with ice water. Take the output hose from the chiller and put it into the bucket. Now recirculate the ice water until you reach your desired yeast pitching temp. Using this method on a 96˚F day, I was able to get my wort down from 100˚F to 62˚F in about 5 minutes. I only used 2 five lb bags of ice to do this. I was shocked at how well this worked.
John
tockeyhockey said:wait, as i understand it, you should never add tap water directly to your wort...
Cregar said:Why not just start off using the ice water? I would think you would just need more bags of ice and it would seem quicker.
cweston said:Another way to give your tap water a little chilling boost is to use a pre-chilliong coil.
cweston said:The water never touches the wort. It flows through the coils of the wort chiller.
tockeyhockey said:oh. i thought you meant you were bringing your wort to a lower temp by doing a partial boil and then adding tap water.
clayof2day said:Which I did for several batches before going to full wort boils. I don't think most municipal water sources would have enough chlorine in them to really worry about, and I never had any ill effects. Again, just another personal preference, some choose to pre-boil the water, others do not.
Exo said:I have to say chloramines just suck. I can taste it in my tap-water and am forced to use store-bought artesian water for brewing and the like.
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