IPA recipe help , and full boil hop addition?

[impulserush]

I am going to be brewing another HOPHEAD IPA from mid west and I have some hop questions.
Hear is the recipe first.

9.3 lbs. light LME
1 lbs DME
8 oz. victory malt
12 oz. crystal 60L
1 oz. chinook 60 min.,
.5 oz. cenntenial 40
.5 cascade 30
.5 cenntenial 20
.5 cascade 10
1 crystal 5
2 oz. leaf cascade dry hopped

First I would like to know would it make a better addition to this brew to substitute the cascade hops with amarillo? Would like opinions on this.

Second I will be doing a full boil. Should I adjust the hop schedule at all. Amounts or times?

Third what would be the starting boil volume so that I will end up with 5.5 gallons at the end.

Will I need a yeast starter, I will be using a Whitelabs California yeast, Or is there another one I should use. I used safale us-05 last time but I liked the final clearing of the liquid on my last batch.
As always thanks for your help.
:rockin:

 

[HOOTER]

First, make a starter. WLP001 is a great yeast for an American style IPA, but a starter is necessary, especially for a beer that big.

As far as the Cascade hops are concerned, I personally prefer Amarillo but Cascade would make a great beer also. Amarillo hops usually have a bit higher AA% so that would increase your IBU's.

I'm not sure I'd stress changing the hops schedule because of a full boil. Your IBU's will be affected a bit but I'm not sure it will be enough to notice. I'd personally keep it as is.

If you want to end up around 5.5 gallons you should boil about 6 3/4-7 gallons. The amount of boil-off depends on weather conditions (wind, humidity, etc) but I've been doing full boils for a while and, under normal conditions, lose about 1.25-1.5 gallons during a 60 min. boil. I'm sure theres a more technical calculation but this is just based on personal experience.

Also, I'd recommend doing a late extract addition. Add about a third of your extract at the beginning of the boil, then the rest with about 10 minutes remaining. Just a suggestion.

That's what I would do, but that's just me.

 

[cuinrearview]

I am going to be brewing another HOPHEAD IPA from mid west and I have some hop questions.
Hear is the recipe first.

9.3 lbs. light LME
1 lbs DME
8 oz. victory malt
12 oz. crystal 60L
1 oz. chinook 60 min.,
.5 oz. cenntenial 40
.5 cascade 30
.5 cenntenial 20
.5 cascade 10
1 crystal 5
2 oz. leaf cascade dry hopped

First I would like to know would it make a better addition to this brew to substitute the cascade hops with amarillo? Would like opinions on this.

Second I will be doing a full boil. Should I adjust the hop schedule at all. Amounts or times?

Third what would be the starting boil volume so that I will end up with 5.5 gallons at the end.

Will I need a yeast starter, I will be using a Whitelabs California yeast, Or is there another one I should use. I used safale us-05 last time but I liked the final clearing of the liquid on my last batch.
As always thanks for your help.
:rockin:

Amarillo is a good sub for cascade, but the flavor isn't that different. It's usually a little higher in AA% but at your addition times the change in IBU would be neglegible.

Technically you should adjust for a full boil IF the recipe is set up for a partial. I wouldn't, but I like bitter. It'll screw with the balance of the beer if you don't but who cares. Right?

The answer to the third question is harder for me to answer. On a calm day in the 70's using all pellet hops and a 60 minute boil I'd use six gallons as long as the boil doesn't get incredibly turbulent. If I'm on the deck in December brewing this recipe using all leaf hops with a stiff breeze the boil would need to be a bit hotter and I'd start with seven gallons and maybe add more water part-way through. If you've done a few full boils you'll know where you need to be as it winds down and you can always add some water if you need to. HTH

 

[cuinrearview]

Looks like Hoot and I brew in a similar fashion!

First, make a starter. WLP001 is a great yeast for an American style IPA, but a starter is necessary, especially for a beer that big.

Or use a pack of re-hydrated Notty or US-05. I really don't see a need to use WLP001 with these fine dried yeasts available.

 

[Zen_Brew]

I think Hooter pretty much nailed it. Hops is a personal preference. The Amarillo and Cacade are somewhat interchangeable with a bit more bittering from the Amarillo.I really like Cascade for a dry hop, but then again it is personal preference. Comes down to what you like and what is available to you.

The boil volume is a bit trickier. It has a lot of variables such as what your ambient humidity is during the boil, how big a diameter pot you are using. I would guess you want about 6 to 6.5 gallons to end up with 5.5. Two schools of thought here.

You can go on the high side of your estimate. If you use too much you can always boil longer. The effect of that is your bittering goes up as your mid and late addition hops are in the boil longer.

You can go at or low on your estimate. If you end up a little light you can top off the last 5 or 10 minutes of the boil. You are dealing with a lot of mid addition hops, so it is probably safer to have to top off then to boil longer.

I also concur with the late partial extract addition. Allows better hop utilization, and will help keep the color from being too dark.
+1 on the starter with WLP001. Good IPA yeast.

Cheers, and enjoy. Looks like a yummy recipe.

 

[impulserush]

This recipe is a partial boil according to the kit. Will this make it overly bitter? I do not mind the bitterness but I do not want overly bitter.

So safale us-05 would be a good choice to stick with since I liked it last time.

Thanks for all the info.

 

[cuinrearview]

Bitterness is objective. I can't make a beer too bitter to drink. If you're making it to serve to BMC drinking friends I'd probably scale the hops back a bit. Then again an IPA isn't a good style to share with these types. Punch the recipe in here:

Beer Calculus . homebrew recipe calculator

This site is set up for a 2.5 gallon boil, which probably matches your recipe parameters with the kit. Take note of the IBU number given.

Set the parameters for full boil, then scale the boiling hops back until the IBU matches the original number.

 

[mc_eric]

You could just use cascade during the boil and sub the dry-hopped (and/or the 10 min boil addition) cascades for amarillo if you don't want to affect the bitterness. I absolutely love the amarillo flavor/aroma, so I would def advise doing that.

You can go at or low on your estimate. If you end up a little light you can top off the last 5 or 10 minutes of the boil. You are dealing with a lot of mid addition hops, so it is probably safer to have to top off then to boil longer.

I think this is probably your best bet. Adding water wont affect the flavor of your beer very much, but boiling long will have a significant affect.

 

[impulserush]

i calculated the recipe and by changing the chinnok for 1/2 for 60 and 1/2 oz at 50 the IBUs come out close to the partial boil. does this make sence?

What yeast would you all use, safale us-05 or wlp001?

thnaks

 

[HOOTER]

I didn't calculate your recipe myself, but what your saying sounds fine. Besides, you really can't detect a difference of a few IBU's either way.

WLP001 and US-05 is the same yeast strain. The problem with liquid yeast is that you really need to make a starter. All you have to do with dry yeast is rehydrate about an hour before pitching. Not to mention that dry is cheaper. I'd go with dry yeast on this one.

 

[impulserush]

OK THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP